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#51
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So that was a coral? It came on the rock so while I would like to have it stay if it died out or was eaten I can take solice in the fact that I didn't actually 'kill it' myself, lol.
On the topic of cycling, we've had the tank up since Sunday and I've only registerd amonia once, but a 30% water change eliminated that now for two days. Never registered nitrites. Have had Nitrates at 12.5 mg/l for the last two days, and PH is 8.0. I'm not trying to rush things but how long should I want this to go on for before I am comfortable with adding a fish. My plan is adding a firefish or yellow watchman as the next step, along with more clean up like sand stirrers, when the time is right. The question is when is the time right, lol?
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#52
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I looked back at your thread, and I was thinking of someone else's tank. They had some Brown Button Polyps that hitched in. That looks like Aiptasia to me. Hopefully it is dead.
I would wait until you have a completed cycle before adding a cleanup crew. You will most likely experience more ammonia as things die off and decompose. Eventually you'll get registered nitrite and nitrate as well. I would hold off getting any live stock until you haven't read Ammonia or Nitrites for a minimum of one week, no more than 10-20 ppm Nitrates (preferably 0), and no water changes while cycling. The water changes only dilutes the problem and causes less bacteria to grow initially.
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Travis Stevens |
#53
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If that was aptasia (which is what exacxtly?) and I don't want it, should I pluck/scrape the other two or three I already have?
My Fish Guy already sold me five snails, two crabs, and an emerald crab because he said my cycle would only last a week becuase all his rock is cured. I took him at his word so I've already got those guys in my tank, oh and a queen conch too.
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#54
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If you have two or three sporadically placed on the rocks, there is little doubt in my mind that they are Aiptasia Anemones. These grow extremely fast and multiply even faster. Whatever you do, don't scrape them. It will only cause them to spread. They also retreat quickly when aggitated. I would
Ah, if the rock is cured, I would still give it a good week of good parameters before adding anything in the tank. In fact, if the rock was truly cured, you would have never registered ammonia or nitrates in the system already. Now, a few things can die off on the drive home that could cause minutes amounts of ammonia, but if you went straight home with this stuff and placed it in the tank, you shouldn't have any registerable ammonia. Also, you might want to reconsider the Queen Conch in such a small tank.
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Travis Stevens |
#55
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Arent' Dursos' installed for quietness? Sorry about all those questions. --- Wendy --- |
#56
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On the Durso, is there an opening below the 90º? Yes
Is the top open? Is there vinyl tubing attached to the top like in the Stockman Standpipe? What is the tubing for? No, not really. It is a PVC Cap with a little hole drilled in it to let just a little air flow. The Vinyl tubing is used to quite it down even more. Aren't Dursos installed for quiteness? Yes, ma'am. And don't be sorry for the questions. Someone else may have the same ones, but don't want to ask
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Travis Stevens |
#57
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Yeah, I'm aware the queen can get big. Mine is about 3/4 to an inch right now. My Fish Guy said when the time came I could trade in if I wanted, and right now she's nearly the coolest thing running around in there. Very alien looking when she's grazing around on the rocks.
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#58
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Thanks Travis.
After posting my questions I realized I had yet another "A Duh" moment. Of course the lower portion on the 90 degrees is open because that's where the water flows down into the sump. (I'm as red as a lobster right now ) Travis, you know that I'm in the planning stages, and here is what I've brooded up so far. Please tell me what you think. 75AGA RR (got it) 30 AGA (will be modified into sump) (got that one, too) Next I think I'll purchase my future skimmer. Thinking about the Octopus NW200 (unless my LFS offers me their used ASM3). For lighting I was thinking 6 X 55W PCs (since I'd be comfortable installing them into the hood) Of course we'll invest into an RO/DI unit (I spent the entire Monday researching them, and then asking my hubby if he'd be comfortable installing one. YES!) Once I have my skimmer I think I can fiddle with the baffles for the sump, and perhaps familiarize myself with how a skimmer is supposed to work. (Probably will run it with fresh water. ???) Oh wait, before I run anything I'll have to get a return pump. I was thinking about the Mag 9.5. How's all that sounding? --- Wendy --- |
#59
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Yeah, for Wendy. The planning and building stage were a lot of fun for me and I'm already trying to figure out how I can plan and do another tank. Maybe a 2.5g nano for work.....
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#60
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Travis, so how do I get rid of the aptasia if I can't scrape it off? Does something predate these things?
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#61
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Wendy: That sounds great. Good choice in skimmer in my opinion. I would take a peek over at Melev's website and look through his various sumps and refugiums for some ideas. As far as the lights go, make sure that you get what you want first instead of upgrading later. It'll save you a lot of headache. Decide on what corals you like (if any at all), and then make a lighting decision based off of that. Other than that, I think you sound very solid for a great start.
First-chevalier: Sorry, I meant to post a link - http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=803632
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Travis Stevens |
#62
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Travis,
Thanks for the super quick reply. Yes, I'm using Melev's idea to design my sump. The lighting thing is driving me absolutely crazy. I think I eventually would love to have corals (I know nothing about those...yet). If I decide to go with T5s, should I opt for a 4 bulb configuration or 6? What about MH? Would 1 X 250W + some additional PC be a good idea? I've learned that MHs penetrate the water the furthest, which is necessary for keeping certain corals, correct? With the lighting I mentioned originally (6 X 55W PC), can I assume I can't add corals because it's not sufficient? --- Wendy --- --- Wendy --- |
#63
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[quiote]With the lighting I mentioned originally (6 X 55W PC), can I assume I can't add corals because it's not sufficient?[/quote] Not at all. You can keep a wide range of corals under this lighting. Some are just a little harder than others to keep. I've seen many gorgeous Acropora sp. corals under PC lights grow and do fine, but I'm telling you that it isn't an easy task. Things such as Leathers, Polyps, Zoanthids, Corallimorphians, and a variety of LPS will be fine under PCs with the correct placement.
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Travis Stevens |
#64
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Okay, in case anyone was wondering, Travis is a certifiable genius. I drilled three small holes in the one inch vinyl drain tube right at and just above the water line. The holes line up the length of the pipe and not cross-wise. As soon as the first hole went in the gurgling stopped in my bulkhead and the whole house dropped quiet. HURRAY!!!!
I used three holes becuase the first wasn't high enough and if a surge of water managed to get above that hole the gurgling started and it couldn't recover. HOWEVER, this did serve to point out that water will spit out of this whole so I drilled two more each an inch above the last so that if one got over run there was another to take over. I am quite confident now that the noise issue is resolved AND all the water will remain in the system if there is a surge. Thanks again Travis chock up another successful modification. New question. I'm swapping out my GE 6500 lights for Coral life mini compact 50/50's since I saw the daylight side is at 10k. When I'm done I'll have 80 watts of 10k 50/50 daylight/actinic. NOW What can I keep? Have I entered the world of those nifty and oh so colorful clams yet? LOL
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#65
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You are coming along quite nicely with your setup, first-chevalier. --- Wendy --- |
#66
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Thanks Wendy. I still have zero amonia, zero Nitrite, and about .3 or .4 nitrate. I ran out of amonia test solution so had to go to the LFS for more. Get ready to cringe you veterans.........are you ready..........I was using a tetra test kit
DUH DUMMMMMMmmmmmm LOL. The Fish Guy cringed when I told him that. He moved me to a section that had a wall of Seachem stuff and pointed to the Marine Basic box. I now use a lab coat and spectacles when I test my water because I feel like such a scientist, lol. They also suggested, and I willingly bit, on introducing a pepermint shrimp to control the aptasia I seem to have. He did great last night then suddenly disappeared. I couldn't find him anywhere. This morning I found him clinging to my cheeto clump in the refugium. He'd slid down teh drain pipe. I've put a piece of egg crate whre the weirs were but I'm concerned the use of a net to get him back into the DT may have overly stressed him as he's not doing anything but hiding under my overflow. We'll see.
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#67
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Travis Stevens |
#68
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Hi Travis,
I hope it's ok to ask another question about the famous "lighting" subject. I've been reading about VHOs, and wonder if 4 VHOs (run on 2 separate ballasts on timers for day/nighttime) are a decent option. When I look at all the different bulbs my head begins to spin - I know I have tons more reading to do regarding what lightbulbs to place, and in which order. I'm also aware that IF I go the VHO route I'll need fans and glass or plexisheet over the tank, correct? Are you ready to shoot me yet, Travis? --- Wendy --- |
#69
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I hope Travis says that 4 VHO's are enough light and that you don't need and shouldn't have glass below the VHO lights. You may also not need fans but it is a good Idea with any lights except maybe LEDs.
And don't shoot Wendy |
#70
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Okay, you may have convinced me to not swap out all the GE's but only two. My GE's are 26w each so that would give me 72 effective watts of day light with 52 w of 6500, 20w of 10k and 20w of actinic.
Right now I'm testing my water three times a day. Once when I get up somewhere between 6 and 7, when I get home around 5 or 6 PM then before bed around 11 PM. Is that hawkish enough or do I need to teach my wife how to use the kits and have her test around lunch time too? I know there are probably many of you vets out there chiding me for going to fast I'm just worried about the algae and other unwatned stuff taking over adn ruining things before it has a chance to be ready and teh water parameters aren't reading any of the Amonia, nitrites, or nitrates which is in line with what the Fish Guy said. Now, I know he could just be selling me a bill of goods so I will buy more stuff then blaming me for not doing something when my tank crashes and kills everything. But so far everything he's told me about the stuff he's pointed me to has turned out correct. They were also VERY pleased to see I was actively talking to you guys on RC adn encouraged me to do so I'm tending to learn towards them being trustworthy and looking out for me because when I go into the store and ask questions they aren't shoving the most expensive item in that category at me first. They ask some questions then point to a few things that, so far, have been in the 'more afordable' category. I promise to try to slow down more. I'm going to start a 5.5g nano project on the tank today or tomorrow to try and take my mind off of it and give me something to do. Maybe that will help.
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#71
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Hi Wendy
Paul B is right. There is very little you can't keep under VHOs. I agree that leaving any glass lids off will be vital with gas exchange and temperature control. But, in a standard canopy, you'll almost certainly need fans with VHO's. They run hotter than T5's, but not nearly as hot as Metal Halides. But, once again, I highly encourage that you sit down with some resources and plan what corals you like. It will save you LOTS of headache (if you don't already have one ) in the long run. I highly recommend reading back through the lighting section; Choosing a Lighting System. It's close to the bottom of the page.
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Travis Stevens |
#72
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I am starting to see little green nodules forming on many of my rocks. I'm also noticing lots of very fine pale or white hairs on one. Are these buble algae and hair algae? And if I shouldn't add more clean up crew to the tank how do you control this until it's time, or is the point that you don't so there is ample food supply for the crew when they get here?
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#73
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Click the picture for more information. *Note: There are many vendors that sell this bulb. This is neither a plug or a shame of this specific vendor Quote:
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Travis Stevens |
#74
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Travis Stevens |
#75
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Eh, go ahead and use me as an example of what not to do. I'm used to it. Unfortunately my best learning is the painful, damn-I-screwed-that-up-how-do-I-fix-it kind. The guys who do those warning posters that are the oposite of the motivational ones about team-work, attitude, experience, etc and I are in talks. They say some of my baby pictures could be made into a great set of birth control adds....
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
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