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#26
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That wasn't the original question.
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Where are those nuclear-powered copepods when you need 'em? |
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If there's a better way to do it than cooking the rocks, cool. I'd like to know what it is too. Quote:
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Ooops, guys, I didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest here. Again, FWIW, the PO4 and the algae in my tank are well under control. It is that way because I don't overfeed, I've got a great skimmer/sump, and a pretty good fuge setup. It wasn't always that way though: when I first setup the tank, I bought 80 pounds of LR from a guy who had it sitting in a Brute can. He had gotten the rock free from someone who gave up the hobby because they couldn't get a handle on their algae problems. Anyway, I had algae issues for months after putting this rock in the tank, but with good husbandry (read: feeding, skimming, water changes, macro algae mangement, and algae eating critters), I got a handle on those algae issues and most of that original rock is now just about fully covered in coraline.
Don't know if that helps the discussion or not, and thanks again for your input regarding the isue with this new rock I just got. jan
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janco (aka Santa) USAF 72'-92' Retired wow, bears really do poo in the woods in some places... |
#31
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Cure the rocks. All the advantages of cooking without killing off the coraline.
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72 Bow w/6x54w T5HO,,2xMaximod1200, PS-3000 skimmer |
#32
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Theres nothing I love more than an uneducated opinion, finneganswake.
Cook the rock.
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180g is running! |
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Remember, kids, educated people follow trends started by "experts" on a website. Uneducated people actually read books and follow established wisdom. Remember, this is coming from an "educated" person who's been keeping reefs for 6 MONTHS!!! |
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finneganswake, you have suggested no better way to remove the phosphate from the rock, which will continually leech out for a while.
IMO, an expert would be Dr. Ron Shimek. Many of the big BB advocates aren't experts, IMO, they do have an educated opinion and know what they are talking about. There is one thing I don't like with books in this hobby. By the time they write the book, edit it, and get it published, the hobby has changed. This hobby has too many new ideas to make an effective book.. by the time the book has been published, it is outdated. Just because I've been in the hobby for 9 months doesn't mean anything. I've seen people that have 5 years of "experience" with the UGLIEST tanks. I've also seen people whose tanks are 3 months old and already have awesome SPS growth. As far as your uneducated opinion.. you have never seen SeanT's tank in person. You don't know what husbandry he goes through. There was no reason to attack his tank or his methods. Opinions are like armpits: everyone has one and they all stink. If you wish to continue your argument with me, you can send me a PM. No reason to do it on this thread (where it is completely irrelevant). Good day and happy reefkeeping.
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180g is running! |
#35
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The point is not removing phosphate from the rock--that's looking at it from the wrong direction. You remove the phosphate from the water as (or after, in my case, but I'll do it differently the next time) the rock cures. A well designed tank can deal with rocks and any associated issues. |
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But this thread is starting to.... Oh well, I'm glad that your tank is doing well ( meant for the thread starter ) Good luck with the LR issues Bob
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To check out my site and watch my videos, click my red house.... Look for "Bob" then "videos" |
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up until the flaming started, this was a beneficial thread to me.
reading seanT's lenghty re-post shed some light on my own red cyanobacter algea problem. i am running a skimmer, caulerpa refugium, and some rowaphos in my system, yet the red algae persists. (no hair, diatom cyled quickly). i now realize that my live rock must be contributing to my phosphate levels. i bought 50 lbs of fiji from a friend of a friend, for a decent price. he had the rock "curing" for several months in a filled-to-the-brim 20 gallon tank, complete with a powerhead, heater, and a **metal halide light**. i didn't think much of it then, but he was indeed farming an algae based ecosystem, as mentioned. damn that guy and his light... the rock is gorgeous, full of feather dusters, sponges, and a number of other things. i am starting to get a nice patina of coraline algae, but can't get past that red cyanobacteria on the lower portions of the rock. my tank is partially stocked and has an established cleaning crew, so i can't shut down and cook my rock, but i do appreciate the notion that my rock is likely leeching phosphate as an explanation for the strength of my algae bloom.
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in omina paratus |
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quote:Originally posted by xtrstangx
finneganswake, you have suggested no better way to remove the phosphate from the rock, which will continually leech out for a while. quote:Originally posted by finneganswake But I cured my rock in-tank, which led to high phosphate in the water. I did lots of water changes and ran phosphate removal media after it was cured and now the phosphate is undetectable. Notice--no rock cooking, no algae issues. Quote:
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#39
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keep the rock in the tank
run the phosban reactor to keep the excess phosphates out of the watercolumn. This will stop the soon to be formed algae speading off the rocks. just keep pulling the algae off the rock when it gets long enough. i recommend seahares for the interim, then trade them to a LFS when your clear. The great thing about the algae bloom youll get = Biological nitrate reducer. Your Tyree frags will love it
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300 G SPS Deltec 1003 (w/sch), 4 x 430W Radium + 4 x 110w VHO, 1HP PCI Chiller, 2 x Cuda Closed loops, 2 x Dolphin 3600 Returns/Equipment Pumps |
#40
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oh yeah, use filter socks and the biggest skimmer you can borrow off a friend.
change sock every 2 days
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300 G SPS Deltec 1003 (w/sch), 4 x 430W Radium + 4 x 110w VHO, 1HP PCI Chiller, 2 x Cuda Closed loops, 2 x Dolphin 3600 Returns/Equipment Pumps |
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Sorry those guys de-railed your thread.
I think you are really asking if there is a way to get all the phosphate out of your rock quickly, and the answer is probably "no". If there's that much phosphate stored in there, it will take time for it to leach out. Like you said, it came from a system where the owner apparently knew phosphates were tied up in that rock. Doing water changes is probably the cheapest and easiest way to export the phosphate and other gunk. Phosphate remover would likely fill up pretty quick at these levels - its better for removing nearly undetectable amounts from an already well-run system. Your best bet is to give it time. Cooking is great for exactly this, but like SeanT pointed out, it does take more than one night! At any rate, I definitely wouldnt put all those frags ($$$) on phosphate-laden rock. |
#42
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NO ONE can determine the amount of PO4/debris build up inside Live Rock. Period. NO ONE can determine how long the rock will shed in a particular setup. So... if you are setting up a new tank...BB, SSB, or DSB... there is only ONE sure way of making sure the rock has enough time to shed all the internal build up... Cooking it or Curing it in a dark environment. How long? However long it takes until your "dunking and swishing" produces no detritus. I, unfortuanatly am curing my rock in tank. Its been 3 months and my rock is STILL shedding tons of stuff. It looks pristine though! The Purple and ORange Coralines are AMAZING. Tonight I actually took a Mag 9.5 (with a hose on the output) and blew out my rock. OH MY GOD. I almost tore it down and started cooking. But not yet... I have worked hard to get it to where it is and I will stay the course. But my life would have been SO much easier if I just followed SeanT's post and cooked it for 6 weeks or so.
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SeaTest Hydrometer?.... $8.00 Seachem Marine Test Kit? ...$24.00 The look on my wife's face as I'm staring out into our 35 acre lake and wondering how much salt I'll need?... Priceless. |
#43
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I don't see this addressed anywhere in the thread...there is sort of an implied opinion (or maybe question) in the title that suggests the Miracle Mud filtration may have been responsible for the phosphates in the rock. I'm reasonably certain this isn't true, I've run an Ecosystems MM refugium, as have many others, and they're not really known to cause problems like this. At least, I haven't noticed anything like it, and I haven't read any threads by people who have.
jds |
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I think everyone is missing my point here--the phosphate from rocks is a complete non-issue. It's a freaking red herring. Nobody even contemplated cooking their rocks until the promise of a miraculous bare bottom system that would never have algae fell flat on its face. You can't blame the sand anymore, so you have to blame the rocks. Yet many people still have algae problems after cooking their rocks. At this point, reasonable people might start thinking that there is a problem with bare bottom tanks called complete lack of nitrate control--that's what is causing bare bottom tanks to have algae blooms. There is just no space (compared to other systems) for de-nitrifying bacteria to live, especially with the high flow in most bare bottom systems bringing highly oxygenated water into the live rock, therefor negating what little anaerobic bacteria lives in live rock to begin with. Of course, the answer to this is usually "Well, we have such powerful skimmers that this isn't an issue." I've done a little research on this, and it's nonsense. Let's take one of the best protein skimmers on the market--the Deltec line. For example, the AP600 is rated for a 200g tank. The amount of water that flows through it is 160g/hour. So in one hour, the skimmer isn't even turning over the capacity of the tank. The idea that nothing will start breaking down into nitrate over the period of one hour is crazy, and in a system with little de-nitrifying bacteria, once it's made it to nitrate, good luck getting it out of the water. It is interesting to me that most bare bottom warriors blame a part of the system (phosphate) and then turn around and tell you that you can't measure it when you tell them that your non-BB system doesn't have phosphates. So if I can't measure it, how can you guys be so certain that it's an issue in your tanks IMO, this whole phosphate obsession is completely missing the point--phosphate is a part of any system, period. If you have no phosphate in your tanks, you have no chance of any corals living. The only thing you need to do is keep it reasonably under control, and this is easily accomplished with good husbandry and phosphate absorbing material. NOBODY ever needs to cook their rocks; all you're doing is destroying life on the rocks while briefly putting off another crash since you haven't considered the flaws in your system. |
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Another point I thought I should bring up regarding this voodoo, er, uh, rock cooking process--is anyone troubled by the idea that the main proponent of this brainwashing is a person whose tank looked like this?
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I think we should let this thread die, finneganswake, rather than continue it. I think the original poster got all the ideas he needed.
Good day and happy reefing.
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180g is running! |
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#48
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Those pictures remind me of someone who jumped into the reef hobby too quickly and overstocked then paid the price..... "ME"...
I learned my lesson after losing a crap load of money and killing off several good pieces that deserved a better chance than I gave them...... I do agree that this thread should be considered dead.... It's now turned into a bickering match..... Oh and before someone jumps me..?? Although I do have over 30 years in this hobby, all but one year has been FW... I've learned a great deal about the SW side and now enjoy three ( 3 ) well running reef tanks.... Bob
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To check out my site and watch my videos, click my red house.... Look for "Bob" then "videos" |
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#50
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I'm done posting with this thread. Good day and happy reefing.
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180g is running! |
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