DIY Stand without 2X4s

stealyourhouse · #1 09/12/2007, 09:55 AM

Hi

Has anyone built a stand without using the standard 2X4 method?

I'm thinking that a stand built out of oak using pocket hole joinery would be strong enough, but I'd like to see some proof of that before I dive in.

Thanks
Marc

nanoDude · #2 09/12/2007, 10:30 AM

Sho-nuff!

I build one for a 75 using 3/4 inch ply using rabbit joints, waterproof superphatic resin, and a nail gun. It was very sturdy. I just ran a layer of ply ourond the inner edge 1 1/4 inch from the top for the tank support. Works great! It has been up and running at a client's for about 2 years now and looks great.

cannarella · #3 09/12/2007, 10:43 AM

I think those look better then 2x4. Looks more like a piece of furnature. Mine is a 3/4 ply carcase with the back rabbited into the sides and the bottom dadoed into the sides and back. The tank sits directly on top of the side plywood. I put on another 3/4 ply sheets on the sides for the finished layer that covers up the plastic trim on the tank. Some 1x2 for a top trim. I then put on a face frame with pocket screws and instlaled some inset doors. Looks like a nice cabintes with an aquarim on top. here is a shot without the doors. I am plumbing it to the basement. Best of luck. Let me know if you have any questions.

polcat_4u · #4 09/12/2007, 11:04 AM

Here is my 90g, solid oak frame dowel and glued. The only plywood is the top, bottom and back. The stand has doors on four sides so the oak frame carries the entire load to the floor. No problems in several years. Pictures are in my gallery, here is finished stand:

cannarella · #5 09/12/2007, 11:18 AM

Good looking stand!

wooden_reefer · #6 09/12/2007, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stealyourhouse
Hi

Has anyone built a stand without using the standard 2X4 method?

I'm thinking that a stand built out of oak using pocket hole joinery would be strong enough, but I'd like to see some proof of that before I dive in.

Thanks
Marc

The use of 2X4's and pocket hole joinery are not mutually exclusive.

The use of 3/4 plywood to form a basic box as a stand can be quite strong. It can remain plumb with a lot of weight because the area for glue is large.

I think a top and a bottom frame to encase the plywood is needed. This is to distribute the load and to strength the plumbness under load

The four edges formed by the plywood should have either cleat glued onto the inside or thick epoxy fillets that serve as cleats.

stealyourhouse · #7 09/12/2007, 01:08 PM

Thanks polcat - that's exactly what I was looking for. Is the oak frame made out of 1x4 boards?

albert2k · #8 09/12/2007, 02:13 PM

Maybe you are wright but I don't want that my 180G fall over any of my sons or my wife or me or any visit because I can't construct a good 2x4 or 2x6 ( i use 2x4 and 2x6 in mine) for stetic. Also mine are going to be looking good with 2x4 and 2x6.

polcat_4u · #9 09/12/2007, 02:27 PM

Yes, stealyourhouse it is made of 1X4 oak and 3/4' marine plywood. I swear it hasn't moved, twisted, shrank or otherwise changed from it's orginal configuration in 3 years.

That's probably not the case with kiln dried doug fir or pine, just trying to assemble that stuff square and plumb is a challange. Not to mention after years of stress, wieght and oh yea, some saltwater splash it's gonna change....

The only thing I kinda regret was not raising the bottom up to flush with the top of the face frame. A couple of small floods taught me that lesson.

Good luck, if I can help answer any questions let me know!

2manytangs · #10 09/12/2007, 02:44 PM

While I don't doubt that a stand can be made to please the eye using 2x material, There is no guarantee that it will be stronger because of the 2x material. a floor joist made of osb is a very stout joist indeed.

Strength in the design, by design.

Jim

Donw · #11 09/12/2007, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by albert2k
Maybe you are wright but I don't want that my 180G fall over any of my sons or my wife or me or any visit because I can't construct a good 2x4 or 2x6 ( i use 2x4 and 2x6 in mine) for stetic. Also mine are going to be looking good with 2x4 and 2x6.

If done properly a plywood stand will be stronger and more stable in tems of moisture than one that is built from construction materials.
There is a difference between a piece of furniture vs a skinned stand. Both of course have their place, just depends on the builders skillset, tooling, desire and of course budget.
I will say I'm not a fan of pocket screws. They were designed to aid in face frame construction.

Don

stealyourhouse · #12 09/12/2007, 02:48 PM

albert2k - have you seen any commercially made tank stands? Most of them are made of particle board and staples.

I was thinking of using 2x4s for the corner posts and 1x4s for the center post on all sides. The side posts would be slotted to allow for 1/4" plywood to slide in and I would add doors to the front.

stealyourhouse · #13 09/12/2007, 02:50 PM

I guess dado joints would probably be stronger than pocket hole joints.

cannarella · #14 09/12/2007, 02:52 PM

It all depends on where you put them. Pocket screws with the right glue will be very strong. A dado will give you more glue surface and aid in alignment along with a mechanical joint.

polcat_4u · #15 09/12/2007, 05:04 PM

Dowels have been around for centuries for a reason..LOL

samtheman · #16 09/12/2007, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wooden_reefer
The use of 2X4's and pocket hole joinery are not mutually exclusive.

The use of 3/4 plywood to form a basic box as a stand can be quite strong. It can remain plumb with a lot of weight because the area for glue is large.

I think a top and a bottom frame to encase the plywood is needed. This is to distribute the load and to strength the plumbness under load

The four edges formed by the plywood should have either cleat glued onto the inside or thick epoxy fillets that serve as cleats.

Why? What is your building or engineering background to give this type of direction?

boboxx · #17 09/12/2007, 06:36 PM

I have also been looking for some info on this, I will be constructing my stand out of maple for my 90G aquarium (48x18x24).

I want to have 3 doors on the front (16" euro style) and have 2 of them with no middle vertical brace (32" opening). Question I have is how high should the top horizontal brace be? I was going to use a 3/4 x 3 but I’m still not sure if this is big enough after seeing the DIY 2x4 stand that have those 4x4+ corner post and 2x6 top!!

I didn’t want to hijack this tread... but I don’t know what size of tank you have so it might be pertinent information :c)

stealyourhouse · #18 09/12/2007, 06:49 PM

My tank is a 32" cube tank, but that's not really the issue.

I just wanted to see how many people have built a stand without using the standard skinned 2x4 method - and what techniques they've used to accomplish it.

t-bone2 · #19 09/12/2007, 08:55 PM

my 210 stand is 3/4 wood glue and dowls only

albert2k · #20 09/12/2007, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stealyourhouse
albert2k - have you seen any commercially made tank stands? Most of them are made of particle board and staples.

I was thinking of using 2x4s for the corner posts and 1x4s for the center post on all sides. The side posts would be slotted to allow for 1/4" plywood to slide in and I would add doors to the front.

You are wright, I don't saw any comercial in 2x4 but that not means that is best in particle board and staple, I said before and I repeat, I don't want to see my 180G fall down over my grandother or over any of my family or me. That is why I made mine in 2x6 and 2x4. See picture of what I mading in this moment.

This is what I hope to look at the ends

PL-Reef · #21 09/12/2007, 10:36 PM

I've NEVER used a 2xanything in any of my stands i have built. 2x's will twist and split over time.
you can always tell if a stand was skinned or not. they never look right. JMO

cannarella · #22 09/12/2007, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by boboxx
I have also been looking for some info on this, I will be constructing my stand out of maple for my 90G aquarium (48x18x24).

I want to have 3 doors on the front (16" euro style) and have 2 of them with no middle vertical brace (32" opening). Question I have is how high should the top horizontal brace be? I was going to use a 3/4 x 3 but I’m still not sure if this is big enough after seeing the DIY 2x4 stand that have those 4x4+ corner post and 2x6 top!!

I didn’t want to hijack this tread... but I don’t know what size of tank you have so it might be pertinent information :c)

Hey there boboxx Welcome to RC. The weight of the stand is carried on the perimeter. Maple is a good choice of wood since it is very strong. I am having a hard time imagining the front. Since you said euro style I am assuming that you mean no face frame. In that case where you were going to use the 3/4 x 3 you could increase the thickness to say 1 1/2 x 3 or 2 x 3 maple. Solid stock if you can get it would be best. That would hold it without sacrificing any interior height requirements. PM me if you have any questions.

wooden_reefer · #23 09/12/2007, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by samtheman
Why? What is your building or engineering background to give this type of direction?

Why not?

Do you not think that because the 3/4" plywood has a long edge, there is a lot of surface for gluing? Do you not think that such large area for glue will tend to keep the box-like structure plump?

Do you not think that some very strong stands are made in such a way?

This is common knowledge among seasoned wood worker. That is why an apron is used often in table design.

cannarella · #24 09/12/2007, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PL-Reef
I've NEVER used a 2xanything in any of my stands i have built. 2x's will twist and split over time.
you can always tell if a stand was skinned or not. they never look right. JMO

The problem with PT (pressure treated) stock is that they now use a copper based treatement. It is also very wet when purchased and will twist and warp over time. You can sink a ton of screws into it to keep it strait but all you are doing is asking for the boards to split when that board dries out and wants to go another way. In the end you get much more room out of plywood with a stronger stand. Since it is in sheets, it inherently resists racking and evenly distributes the weight of the tank. With the proper joints and glue it will be very strong... That is one thing the 2x crowd tends to leave out. Using the proper glue will hold a joint better then any fastener. The fastener is just there to hold the joint together while the glue dries.

hyperfocal · #25 09/12/2007, 11:46 PM

I'm building a small stand for my son's upcoming 20gal nano. It's my first project using a biscuit joiner. I did some test builds using scrap, and (as advertised) a properly glued biscuit joint is stronger than the surrounding wood.

Of course, you still have to design the stand so the load is correctly distributed but that's always the case. Biscuits sure do make the joinery easier though.