DIY MaxiJet Stream (Pic Intense)

[grim]

The shaft must be inert, over time the shaft *will* wear down due to the friction of the magnet assembly.

jb

[miatawnt2b]

tagging along. Keep up teh good work. As soon as I find some extra time for another project, this is it.
Thanks,
-J

[GSerg2]

Nice job! I agree with the others, I would remove the aluminum and wait to find some stainless.

[rsteagall]

what about a powder coated aluminum rod?


... the coating may still wear away over time i suppose.

Anyone here have access to or work at a hardware store? I would think that there would be a stainless finishing nail of sorts that could be close to the diameter needed.

[GSerg2]

The only thing I could find on McMaster Carr in that size was 303 stainless which I don't think will get you where you need to be. But if you are interested....

www.mcmaster.com

Part# 88915K39

[philipj74]

Very nice. I'm interested in seeing the stop mod. on the next version.

[maxvan1]

I have another idea for the stop mod.

You could cut a flap in the PVC, and push it in a bit, so if it spins the wrong way it will hold it back, but if it spins the right way it will get pushed down... Kinda hard to explain, and I dont know if it would work, but it might.

I like the differnt hole sizes also.

[Pyrrhus]

on the next model try making the holes only on 3/4 or 2/3 of the ring to prevent vortexing air from the top, this will allow you to place the powerhead closer to the surface...skip

one other thing sch 80pvc might look better for this application, if the sizes line up right.

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by pyrrhus
on the next model try making the holes only on 3/4 or 2/3 of the ring to prevent vortexing air from the top, this will allow you to place the powerhead closer to the surface...skip

one other thing sch 80pvc might look better for this application, if the sizes line up right.

I will keep that in mind on the next one, and I will see if I can find that particular PVC.

I almost think it needs larger holes. Correct me if I am wrong, but the vortex is caused because it can not draw enough water in quick enough. I asume the vortex would be larger with less holes. However I will do less holes on the next one just to see what happens. I can always drill more holes if nessesary.

Also wanted to give everyone an update on where I am with things. I found Titanium Joe and after doing some consideration, I am not sure the extra cost of the titanium would be worth it. The titanium comes out to about $1.32 per inch of material. that would bring it to almost $5 a shaft. I could get SS for next to nothing and have plenty left over for mor mods.

What does everyone else think,

I also have evreything worked out for the piece that holds the rod on the end as well as the propeller stop for when it spins in the wrong direction. Can't wait to get that together and let everyone see what I am going to do there. It will also be very solid rather than that flimsy piece of plastic going across.

I will probably be ordering some SS in the next few days just so I can get started with the next rendition. I will keep everyone informed.

One Last thing. I would like to say thanks to the MODS for fixing my post. They went through and broke it up so that all Pics would show up and it is greatly apreciated. I hope it helps out those who may have otherwise skipped over the thread due to having to continuously click on links.

Hope everyone has an awsome day and may God Bless you throughout it.

Wayne

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by pyrrhus
on the next model try making the holes only on 3/4 or 2/3 of the ring to prevent vortexing air from the top, this will allow you to place the powerhead closer to the surface...skip

one other thing sch 80pvc might look better for this application, if the sizes line up right.

Actually, now I think I understand what you are saying, make it so that a small portion is solid and have that facing the top. Only problem with that, is there is no way to know exactly where to make the solid side. I may have it in the tank this way, but someone else may put it in a different way. I guess a plastic shield could be made to cover up the nessesary holes.

Wayne

[pioneerlog]

FANTASTIC JOB :-)
Instead of using a female adaptor, would a coupler work? Maybe the interior threads help with water flow?? Just a dumb question.

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by pioneerlog
FANTASTIC JOB :-)
Instead of using a female adaptor, would a coupler work? Maybe the interior threads help with water flow?? Just a dumb question.

I looked at several couplers and none of them would work with the cap. Keep in mind I was not really planning on using the cap the way I did but It worked ou tfor the better. I also like the look of the adapter alittle more than just the flat look of the coupler. My only problem with it was like you said, the threads on the inside, but now that I think about it, they may actually help. Becasue the inside diameter is smaller at the end than where the water comes in, making it actualy FORCE the water out rather than just blowing it through.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

All comments and suggestions are welcome.

Wayne

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by dcoufal
Nope.

Needs to be at least 316 Stainless Steel.

Other options, in order of increasing chemical/saltwater resistance:

Nitronic 50 Stainless Steel
Type 20 Stainless Steel
(both of the above will be incredibly difficult to find, hence the 316 recommendation)

and, the best option:

Titanium

3/32" Ti Rod is difficult to find. It's normally only available in 1/8" increments. If you can find 14AWG, you'll be incredibly close... Ti Welding rod comes to mind.


But, 316 Stainless Steel should last 12 months in a saltwater tank without difficulty.


Dwain

Dwain,

Forgot to thank you for your input. I was able to find the titanium rods but the expense is not worth it to me. I am going to be ordering the SS very soon. Thanks again.

Wayne

[Travis L. Stevens]

This is an AWESOME mod, but my question is why? Why did you drive to make a maxijet into a tunze? What are the benefits here?

[speakeraddict]

A ton of increased flow. And you get that flow over a wider area so you don't hurt your tanks inhabitants.

Steven

[Travis L. Stevens]

Ah ha....I have 3 maxijet 1200s on my 29g and I seem to have trouble getting the right flow. Maybe setting just one of these mods up and trashing the other two MJ would be a huge benefit for me

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by Travis L. Stevens
This is an AWESOME mod, but my question is why? Why did you drive to make a maxijet into a tunze? What are the benefits here?

As speakeraddict said!!!

I have seen some of the Tunze pumps in action and bar none, they are a great product. However I cannot see spending that kind of money for pumps. I was going to do a closed loop system like the one that is on MELEV's site, however I ran across the other thread about these things. I figured, I have 2 in my tank now, lets try it an see what happens.

So basicly for 15$ I created what would have cost me at least $100 to create the closed loop, or the $100+ for the tunze. I think I came out on top

I really love this hobby, however the expense of it is astronomical at times. So I think anything Ican do to keep a little cash in my pocket (not really, just means I get to buy more coral and a biger tank) Not to mention, I think I may have found a way to make this mod last as long as the pump will, only time will tell.

Wayne

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by Travis L. Stevens
Ah ha....I have 3 maxijet 1200s on my 29g and I seem to have trouble getting the right flow. Maybe setting just one of these mods up and trashing the other two MJ would be a huge benefit for me

hehe, yea, probably. I am not sure if you downloaded my video, but keep in mind, this is just a 600 in a 29g. I am still going to do another one and point them at one another and possibly hook them up to t a wave timer. Maybe not, I have not decided yet, but I can tell you that the video really does not give this thing justice.

I have several caves and a bit of room behind my LR and there is not one dead spot in my tank now, all from this one pump. I cannot enphasize enough how impressed I was with this thing. Oh, and I would not trash them, save them for later, you never knwo when you will need them.

Wayne

[BullDZR]

Oh, one other thing, I hope someone else can help me with this.

I am not sure if the bottom of a 1200 is larger than the bottom from a 600 and so-on. If it is, this cap would not fit. Doues anyone know if there is a differenct in the size of the area where the output head screws into place on these thing?

Wayne

[dcoufal]

Originally posted by BullDZR
Oh, one other thing, I hope someone else can help me with this.

I am not sure if the bottom of a 1200 is larger than the bottom from a 600 and so-on. If it is, this cap would not fit. Doues anyone know if there is a differenct in the size of the area where the output head screws into place on these thing?

Wayne

I believe all the Maxi-Jet's (400-1200) have the same size "cap" on the bottom.

The body of the 400-900 are the same size. The 1200 body is approx. 1/2" longer.

Makes it easier to make "universal" mods....

Dwain

[tgfrench]

hiya wayne:

While i'm on vacation in NJ next week i'm gonna put a couple of these heads together. The MJets all have the same basic mount, just varying size mags, impellers, and shaft lengths.

Thanks for the thread

terry

[pioneerlog]

WOW, so who's gonna patent this 'Maxi Mod'. I never thought about 1 'gizmo' fitting so many different models. Just change the prop & mag., and wa la...a unit for my 120...TOTALLY AWSOME...BEST idea I've seen in years...

[PetPirate]

Agreed -- this is great. Glad to see it progressing so far. I'll look forward to jumping in myself once all the intricacies have been ironed out!

[sealife]

if any one wants some 316 lvm i some i was in to body pircing and i made my own rings and stuff size from 14g to 2 g

[BullDZR]

Just wanted to give everyone an update. I ordered my SS yesterday. Hopefully it will be in by friday, If so, I will make the adjustments to the mod that I need and repost.

Wayne