$200, my day off, and my new diy calcium reactor! - Page 40

drock59 · #**976** 03/01/2006, 01:05 PM

good point, but I doubt that would happen. Probably worth putting a ball valve.

drock59 · #**977** 03/01/2006, 01:05 PM

double post

Horace · #**978** 03/07/2006, 07:09 PM

Hey guys is it really worth it to get the PH controller? I think I want to get a PH probe regardless so I can keep track of the PH of the tank, but I am not sure I want to have a probe constantly measuring the PH of the effluent. I think I would rather have it monitor the tank PH. Please give me your opinions guys! Thx

impur · #**979** 03/07/2006, 08:04 PM

I recommend it. If something goes wrong and there is no controller to monitor the pH of the reactor, you certainly don't want skyrocketing alk and calcium dumping into the tank when you aren't around.

Horace · #**980** 03/07/2006, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by impur
I recommend it. If something goes wrong and there is no controller to monitor the pH of the reactor, you certainly don't want skyrocketing alk and calcium dumping into the tank when you aren't around.

So do you also have a separte PH monitor to keep track of the tank PH too???

Qwiv · #**981** 03/07/2006, 09:02 PM

I use an Aqua Controller on my tanks. My PH monitor is in the tank/sump. If the PH goes to high, Kalk turns off. If the PH goes to low, Ca Reactor turns off.

When I need to calibrate my reactor, I take that probe and put it in a cup that the ca reactor drips into. You can set-up your reactor this way.

Y

Horace · #**982** 03/07/2006, 09:16 PM

Well I am still undecided. I am not 100% convinced a controller is necessary. I know many folks who run thier reactors with out them for years with no problems. I would think it would be very important to get one with a solenoid though incase you lose power.

Another question is, how do you know what is a good drip rate?? You can control the internal PH of the reactor by the drip rate and by the Co2 concentration correct? I assume speeding the drip will raise the PH of the effluent, while slowing it will reduce the PH. Raising the bubble count should lower the PH, while lowering the bubble count should raise the PH. So how do you know which one needs tweaking???? Someone please edumacate me here. I plan on building this reactor soon :P

stogie · #**983** 03/07/2006, 11:50 PM

Qwiv,

Thanks for the money saving tip. I have a AC jr. and was planning on having to get another meter to control the reactor. I love being able to learn form other people. Viva Reef Central!

crypt-keeper · #**984** 03/08/2006, 10:30 AM

Well for me the controller has just been a redundancy. Its just a fail safe. Ive been running my setup for about 4 weeks now, not one time has the controller had to shut off the co2.

I do check the ph of both at least 3 times a week. Never found the effluent lower than 6.6.

On setup a good starting point is 20 mL/min and 30 b/min. Make sure ur water parameters are where u want them to stay. This is ur refernce point, then if levels go low, when u turn up the drip rate to like 30 mL/min, and yes u would turn up the bubble rate as well or the ph would rise in the reactor.

Every tank is different, you have to find rates to maintain your tank, but above is a good starting place.

Horace · #**985** 03/08/2006, 10:59 AM

Ahhh ok... so basically you always want your PH in your effluent to stay the same ~ 6.6, and you just adjust your drip rate to the tanks needs and adjust the BC to keep the PH in the reactor the same...GOT IT!!! THX!!!!

impur · #**986** 03/08/2006, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stogie
Qwiv,

Thanks for the money saving tip. I have a AC jr. and was planning on having to get another meter to control the reactor. I love being able to learn form other people. Viva Reef Central!

I didn't know you could do this either. I have an AC Jr. and a pinpoint pH monitor. I guess i can move the monitor over to another tank now! Thanks!

Qwiv · #**987** 03/08/2006, 01:04 PM

No Problem Stogie.

Horace, To get scientific about determining your drip rate and bubble rate you can do this
- Test you tank for CA for a week or 2 every day or every other day. You should be able to identify your calcium uptake. Then, there is some chemistry calculators on the main page that will help you convert that calcium demand into a drip rate.
- Once you determine that, you just need to set your bubble count to get the PH @ 6.6.
- Test for a few more days. You CA should stay constant, if not, you need to make some more adjustments. If so, adjust your CA with additives to get it where you want it and it should stay there.

Always adjust your reactor to keep the CA/Alk constant. Adjust the levels with additives. It is much simpler.

Note, your numbers will drift as your corals grow. Write down your drip rate and bubble rate from where you started and the date. When you adjust it, write these new numbers and dates down. After a while, you should be able to graph this change to predict your next change.

Sorry, I am in a hurry. Let me know if that makes sence.
Good Luck.

Jagermeister · #**988** 03/08/2006, 01:24 PM

What are peoples bubble count for this reactor? I finally got it tuned in where my levels are constant. But i have an effluent rate of 50 ml/min and a bubble count of 140 bubbles/min. That seems really high. The effluent pH is 6.75.

TroyPierce · #**989** 03/08/2006, 03:33 PM

I have a Milwaukee Solenoid/Bubble counter combination and when I set it up 9 months ago, the bubble count stayed dead on. My CO2 tank ran dry and I decided to change the circulating pump so it sat for a couple weeks.

Now, I set the bubble count to where I want it and come back later in the day and it's not bubbling. I crack the needle valve open a little more and CO2 flows like crazy. I set it again and after a few hours, it's stopped again.

I've tried taking the bubbler apart and cleaning it. I tired to take the needle valve off but it's not cooperating. I even doubled the pressure in the hopes that more pressure would allow for a consistant flow.

Has anyone run into this before? I'm guessing that by sitting idle, some corrosion built up in the needle valve.

Help is greatly appreciated.
Troy

gath2 · #**990** 03/08/2006, 04:23 PM

Finally got all the parts and got mine up and running last night. Where is everyone adjusting there effluent from? I have mine on input, because I figured this would remove any pressure from inside the canister. However, it is very difficult to adjust and if I set it for a slow drip it just stops after awhile. I'm using the john guest ball valve type. I'm going to try and move it to the output and see if this helps. If not, I guess I will look for a needle/gate valve for it.

crypt-keeper · #**991** 03/08/2006, 07:04 PM

my setup came with a warning saying not to turn on or off the main gas valve unless the knob in the front of the gauges is backed out fully so u feel no pressure on it, if u forget this the diaphragm will be damaged causing erratic regulation of the co2.

crypt-keeper · #**992** 03/08/2006, 07:22 PM

here is the instructions for the guages...I did find something a while back on how to fix a problem with these guages, now I cant find it, but looking still.

Automated Aquarium Systems^&#153

Presents...

Operating the

"MA957 CO2 Regulator"

Operating Instructions for the Milwaukee MA957

SIZE="+2">CYLINDER CARE:

Secure cylinders so that they will not tip or fall.

Inspect the cylinder valves for damaged threads, dirt, oil, or grease.
Remove dust and dirt with a clean cloth.

DO NOT ATTACH THE REGULATOR IF OIL OR GREASE IS PRESENT.

Oil and grease in the presence of oxygen is EXPLOSIVE!

Crack open the cylinder valve for an instant to blow out any
foreign matter in the throat of the cylinder.

Use Teflon tape on the threads of the cylinder before attaching
the regulator. Failure to do this can result in the loss of gas!

SIZE="+2">REGULATOR ATTACHMENT AND USE:

Attach the regulator to the cylinder valve placing the supplied
plastic o-ring (not shown) between the regulator and the tank.
Tighten with a wrench. Omission of this o-ring will cause loss of gas!

Unscrew the large brass ring (G) from the Bubble Counter (H)
and fill the bubble counter 1/2 full of fresh water. Be sure the
needle valve (B) is closed before filling with water. Once filled,
replace the brass o-ring (G).

Before opening the cylinder valve turn the regulator adjustment knob (E) counter
clockwise until tension is no longer felt on the knob. Do not fully remove
the regulator flow adjustment knob. IF THE CYLINDER VALVE IS OPENED WITH
THE REGULATOR KNOB CLOSED, DAMAGE TO THE REGULATOR CAN RESULT!

VERY SLOWLY and CAREFULLY openthe cylinder valve COMPLETELY
to seal the cylinder valve packing. The amount of gas in the cylinder
can now be read on the High Pressure Gauge (D).

Plug the solenoid (C) into a suitable, grounded, AC Wall outlet, Hanna
pH Mini Controller, or Milwaukee SMS122 pH Controller.
The solenoid uses slightly more then 6 watts and it is normal for it to feel warm during operation.

Open the needle valve (B) by turning counter-clockwise.

Turn the adjustment knob (E) clockwise until you get a reading on the Low Pressure Gauge (F)
of approximately 10lbs on the outside set of numbers (use the numbers on the top row).
You should now see bubbles in the counter.

Unplug the Solenoid (C) from the wall or controller and unscrew the compression fitting and pass
the air hose through the fitting and attach the tubing to the nipple (A). Be sure your tubing
fits tightly on the nipple and that it is pressed all the way down. Slide the compression fitting
onto the nipple and tighten.

Plug the Solenoid (C) back into the wall outlet or pH Controller unit and adjust the bubble count
on your reactor using the needle valve (B). Fine tuning the count can be accomplished with either
the needle valve (B) and by adjusting the regulator output pressure with adjustment knob (E)
as discussed in the pevious step. The more you increase the pressure as indicated on the low pressure
gauge (F) the more difficult it will be to fine tune your bubble count using needle valve (B).
Therefore it is more desirable to keep the pressure indicated on the low pressure gauge (F) low
and adjust your bubble count using the Needle Valve (B).

TroyPierce · #**993** 03/09/2006, 03:14 PM

I spoke to the Milwaukee people last night and the man I spoke with said that there was some scale buildup. He said it's a common problem after about 9 months or so.

What he told me to do is to shut off the gas, unscrew the plastic bubble counter tube and back out the needle valve all the way. Then get a drill bit slightly smaller than the oriface and clean out the scale.

I did that and put things back together and as of the last time I checked last night, the bubble rate is consistant again. I'll see when I get home tonight.

He also mentioned that the CO2 is pretty caustic to parts of the regulator and they often only last about 18 or so months.

Caillou · #**994** 03/16/2006, 05:35 PM

Is anyone who has actually drilled holes in the ribs of the lids still reading this thread? If so can you let me in on the secret of how the heck you did it. I'm having a nightmare of a time trying to do it.
Thanks,

Jagermeister · #**995** 03/16/2006, 05:57 PM

I used a dremmel and ground out the ribs completely. Very easy, took about 5 minutes.

Caillou · #**996** 03/16/2006, 06:05 PM

That's what I wanted to hear, I thought about it but I wasn't sure it would be ok. Thanks!

drock59 · #**997** 03/16/2006, 07:07 PM

How big of an issue is the metal screw in the top?

xclan · #**998** 03/17/2006, 05:43 AM

I have a 2 chamber calcium reactor.....If i didnt and was faced with purchasing a new one or building this....i would most certainly build this.

gath2 · #**999** 03/17/2006, 10:07 AM

I didn't drill, but used a thin grinding bit and cut them out.

JohnL · #**1000** 03/17/2006, 10:07 AM

This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=802689