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#976
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Hi Ed,
Hmm, never heard of cast square bar but who knows I don't have any issues with using extruded bar for this stuff from a structural POV, but (and a big but) extruded barstock generally will not have any flat faces on them, each side will be convex or concave IME, at least to some degree. While it may not be a big deal to some, I'm pretty picky about some stuff so check it out and see if it's something you can work with. The stuff is dirt cheap so get some and if you don't like it, save it for some other project HTH, James |
#977
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James, I just finished welding two panels together. I am using 25g needles with oval bottle. The solvent seems to drip out without me squeezing it. I guess this is normal w/ WO-4. I am using .18mm acupuncture needles for gap. It is 3/8 acrylic. Everything went pretty smooth for the first couple tries. It went almost too easy. I couldn't see a fillet on the first run, so I laid it on a little bit thicker on the second panel. I can see the gap filling almost before I get to it. I checked the second panel, and I had at best a 1/16 fillet. Is this normal for 3/8 acrylic. If I put any more in the gap, I am afraid that it will look messy. thanx, Marc
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#978
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I was also looking edges of my manufactured aquarium. The panels are cut so cleanly that when I pear inside the acrylic sheet, I can see inside clearly. It almost looks like a kaleidascope of 1000 panels. Should I expect this with my cuts? I am using better than average tools. Am I expecting too much?
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#979
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Hi Marc,
I'd need to see pics on your first post. Hving a fillet is not necessarily a priority, gettting a clean joint is. So, if I'm reading correctly - you have gaps in the joint you are trying to fill? Or just trying to "force make" a fillet? If I'm understanding correctly, you have a tank manufactured by a shop and this has clear & shiny edges. If this is the case, then the edges were most likely flame polished after it was built. When I use new cutters, the cuts are very smooth and you can see some of what you are referring to but not shiny. If I'm interpreting your post incorrectly, please do correct me HTH, James |
#980
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Marc, I will router out the access panels openings then I wet sand them with 220 then 400 then 800. then I use a little BRASSO to polish it. It is shinny as can be and looks like the holes were basically melted into the top.
You can do the same with the edges to make them clear. |
#981
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Added to the above post..........AFTER the tank is built not prior to assembly as you could round the edges and thats no good
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#982
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thanx guys. As far as the fillet goes, I was under the impression that as soon as I pulled the pins, and the panel sets down, a bead of solvent is supposed to squueeze out of both sides evenly indicating that you have a strong joint. My peices look strong, but when the sheet sets down, I have very little solvent that actually makes it's way out from under the sheet. When I try to lay the bead slower, I can actually see the pool of acrylic filling between the sheets before I get there, almost like it is sucking it in there.
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#983
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I will try to get pics up, but the joints basically look real clear in the very center of the joint, then toward the edges, there are some tiny bubbles, almost looks like crazing. I am prepping my edges with a large amana straight cutter router bit. They come out pretty nice. The other thing is that in the two diferent times I have welded the acrylic, when I add the pins, there is no need to shim underneath them because they all feel equally tight. Is this a good sign of a nice even cut?
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#984
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I am having trouble changing the pics from jpg to img.
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#985
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Quote:
HTH, James |
#986
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Quote:
__________________
40 Breeder, 1 x 400 watt Radium 20k, Lumen max 2 reflector, Euro-Reef RS-80, Koralia powerheads, Randy's 2 part |
#987
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trying to read as much of thread as possible in last half-hour, great info here.. but haven't found answer to my question yet.
wondering about way to take apart two glued acyrlic sides in a tight space. i have an old wet/dry under the sump that it essentially a two chamber sump, but want to take out the plexy rods in the first chamber that essentially held the eggcrate that kept the bio-balls in place. i don't really want to take the sump out of the stand, but can drain the water out of the sump. goal is to remove the 4 1"x10"x1/4" rods that are glued to the sides of the sump. i was thinking a razor blade/matt knife (would potentially take forever), one of those saws that are used to cut off bottom of moldings for floors to be put in, something chemical (don't know what?), anything else? ideas? i can't really fit a jigsaw in. so any thoughts on how to take apart acyrlic welds without a circular saw? thanks in advance..
__________________
huh? you mean those are not purple people eaters in my avatar? |
#988
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Otter, you're gonna need to cut them out. Not sure what you have in the way of tools or what kind of space you have but it does need to be mechanically cut out. Even a hack saw blade will work fine, Dremel as well.
HTH, James |
#989
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will this work to cut the edges off with a router after I have glued the tank? I dont have a router table and thought I could use this guide, I would want the bit turning towards the acrylic also right?
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/maki...58-3/?ref=base
__________________
40 Breeder, 1 x 400 watt Radium 20k, Lumen max 2 reflector, Euro-Reef RS-80, Koralia powerheads, Randy's 2 part |
#990
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I don't think you need any sort of jig to trim the edges fro a glued tank. Any router with flush cutter will work quite well, the router table is helpful but not necessary. A helper blowing compressed air at the bearing is *very* helpful though
Yep you want the cutter turning toward the acrylic. If you have it turned the wrong way, the router will tend to grab and pull away. HTH, James |
#991
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so basically, I would use this style bit and cut like the way in this pic??
i was gonna order something like this how does it look or can you recommend a better one http://routerbitworld.com/product_p/...806.096.11.htm
__________________
40 Breeder, 1 x 400 watt Radium 20k, Lumen max 2 reflector, Euro-Reef RS-80, Koralia powerheads, Randy's 2 part Last edited by shag26272; 02/25/2007 at 10:00 PM. |
#992
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i personnaly like whiteside bits, but frued makes a more affordable ones that are pretty good also. avoid the cheap ryobi type bits, bearings tend to come off easy and alot of damadge can be done before you realize its off. And yes thats the right type of bit in the pic, the whitesides are flush trims, but in a spiral cut method bit.
Oh and dont know if this has been said already, avoid smaller bits for trimming, they tend to melt faster. Use a 1/2" bit or bigger if they make them. |
#993
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http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=130&
Is this the correct adhesive to use for welding acrylic, I couldn't find the weld-on 4? I used to use this but Hobby Lobby quit selling it. Thanks! |
#994
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cool, thanks acrylics.. i figured it would mechanically have to be cut out, yeah, a mini-hacksaw or dremel may be my best bet..
__________________
huh? you mean those are not purple people eaters in my avatar? |
#995
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shag26272,
Yep, you've fot it CMT makes pretty good bits so I think you're in good shape. Like bchbum, I prefer Whiteside but you'll spend more on those so the cost:benefit ratio may not be in your favor if you don't plan to do much of this. I also agree to use 1/2" cutters rather than thinner 3/8" or 1/'4" cutters, the bearings will be stronger and chips will clear better. I've tried a coupla 3/4" flush cutters but would not recommend them, they simply don't do as well. Joshua, The Tap solvent will be fine, (essentially) same stuff. Otter, Hope it works out well. Only thing is, do these pcs look like they could be adding strength to the sump? If they do, and do not *need* to be cut out, might wanna leave them in there. I'd hate to see ya cut something out for convenience if that would jeopardize structural integrity. Hope this makes sense. James |
#996
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#997
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#998
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#999
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James, here are my edges. After I pulled the pins, I pushed down on the sheet. Is this a bad idea? I am thinking that maybe I should have just let the weight of the panel do the pushing and not touch it?
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#1000
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1056956
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