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  #76  
Old 05/22/2005, 02:56 PM
GreshamH GreshamH is offline
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page #11

http://www.delviesplastics.com/pdf%20files/acrylic.pdf
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  #77  
Old 05/23/2005, 05:41 PM
BtheReef BtheReef is offline
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Thanks for the info.

I ordered some weldon and a strip heater from Craftics. I got the heater for $34, a good price from others I've seen.

My first acrylic project will be making hangers for my maxi-jets. Can't wait to get started when the parts come in!
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  #78  
Old 05/23/2005, 08:50 PM
Italian Stallion Italian Stallion is offline
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ok i got the cutting thing for the most part down except my edges are just a little ruff and uneven i am using 2 verticle mounted feather boards and no flat side feather boards (my table is to small to mount them) what can i do to get them perfectly smooth

is it better to pass the material through the router quickly or slowly

is it better to go super fast or slow

any ideas on what i can do to get smooth edges i am keeping the acrylic pressed up to the guide board and at least i dont think it is jumping it at least looks like it is staying pressed the whole time



any tips or ideas
  #79  
Old 05/23/2005, 08:55 PM
Italian Stallion Italian Stallion is offline
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also is cast the best type to use and if so is any type of cast ok

for the average 2 foot long by 1 and a half feet tall by a foot wide
sump/fuge is like 1/4" the best thickness
  #80  
Old 05/24/2005, 08:34 AM
masterswimmer masterswimmer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Italian Stallion
also is cast the best type to use and if so is any type of cast ok

for the average 2 foot long by 1 and a half feet tall by a foot wide
sump/fuge is like 1/4" the best thickness
From previous posts, most would say 3/8". However, Acrylicman said he doesn't use anything less than 1/2".
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  #81  
Old 05/24/2005, 09:57 AM
Biodragen Biodragen is offline
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You can make it out of 1/4" but you would have to put in bracing to prevent it from bowing out.

If this is not an option then yes 3/8 would be much better and stronger to use.
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  #82  
Old 05/25/2005, 04:35 PM
lfjewett lfjewett is offline
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glass/acrylic

I want to put together a 20 G sump/fuge out of a standard el cheapo Glass tank. But I just happen to have some acrylic laying around to make baffles/etc with. At the local HD I found 2 possible prospects.

1. Aquarium Silicone.
2. 2 part waterproof marine epoxy from DAP I think.

Will ether of these work to bond acrylic to glass? Wil ether of them cause a problem in the tank?


Thanks!
  #83  
Old 05/25/2005, 05:57 PM
adrinal adrinal is offline
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I did the same thing for my first sump, with Aquarium Silicone. I still have it today 4 years latter.
  #84  
Old 05/25/2005, 09:24 PM
Biodragen Biodragen is offline
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Silicone will work if you make sure it is very clean and not too thin.
Lots of folks do what you mention and do have to redo it after some time--some get lucky and it lasts longer.

Don't skimp on the silicone--buy the good stuff.
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  #85  
Old 05/25/2005, 10:43 PM
Italian Stallion Italian Stallion is offline
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ok i got the cutting thing for the most part down except my edges are just a little ruff and uneven i am using 2 verticle mounted feather boards and no flat side feather boards (my table is to small to mount them) what can i do to get them perfectly smooth

is it better to pass the material through the router quickly or slowly

is it better to go super fast or slow

any ideas on what i can do to get smooth edges i am keeping the acrylic pressed up to the guide board and at least i dont think it is jumping it at least looks like it is staying pressed the whole time
  #86  
Old 05/25/2005, 10:43 PM
Italian Stallion Italian Stallion is offline
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ok i got the cutting thing for the most part down except my edges are just a little ruff and uneven i am using 2 verticle mounted feather boards and no flat side feather boards (my table is to small to mount them) what can i do to get them perfectly smooth

is it better to pass the material through the router quickly or slowly

is it better to go super fast or slow

any ideas on what i can do to get smooth edges i am keeping the acrylic pressed up to the guide board and at least i dont think it is jumping it at least looks like it is staying pressed the whole time
  #87  
Old 05/26/2005, 07:31 AM
Biodragen Biodragen is offline
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Pass it through in between quick and slow.

Try it on some scraps to get a feel for it. Try it fast on some and slow--play around with it.
Some bits a router will vary---so it is getting the feel for it really.
If you feed it too fast the vertical lines will be rougher and it may also take out tiny little chunks that will cause bubbles.
If you feed it too slow it will start to melt and leave melted plastic stuck to the edges.

HTH
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  #88  
Old 05/26/2005, 09:34 AM
Ehydo Ehydo is offline
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Too fast leaves router marks. Too slow and you can gouge it.
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  #89  
Old 05/26/2005, 12:50 PM
Italian Stallion Italian Stallion is offline
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are 1/2" and 1" easrier to work with than like 3/8" or more difficult
  #90  
Old 05/27/2005, 09:45 AM
Acrylics Acrylics is offline
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1/2" & 3/8" are about the same. For most, 1" gets difficult as feed rates, cutter flex, stability of router table, router condition, & chip clearance are far more critical. Weight becomes an issue also as the pounds add up rather quickly.
...and any mistakes are far more costly.

James
  #91  
Old 05/27/2005, 11:28 AM
Scottm Scottm is offline
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To add to what James mentioned above, if you can handle the edge prep effectively and the physical weight of the panels I personally find that thicker material is much more stable and easier to bond than thinner stuff like 1/4 or 3/8.
  #92  
Old 05/27/2005, 12:50 PM
H20ENG H20ENG is offline
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Thin stock- easy to cut and route, hard to glue
Thick stock- hard to cut and route, easy to glue
-IME
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  #93  
Old 05/27/2005, 05:00 PM
xtrstangx xtrstangx is offline
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I'm going to make a DIY skimmer like an AquaC Remora. What is the best adhesive that I can use for the acrylic? I want something I can get at Home Depot, unless it is absolutely imperative that I get Weld-On online.

Would I sound like a complete moron calling the town's plastics shops to see if they had Weld-On I could buy?
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  #94  
Old 05/28/2005, 08:29 AM
H20ENG H20ENG is offline
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Nope, and weldon really is the only GOOD stuff to use.
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"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles"

"Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches"
  #95  
Old 05/28/2005, 01:13 PM
Acrylics Acrylics is offline
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Weld-on or MCBond will both work well though the MCBond is not nearly as common. IME there is nothing at HD or Lowes that works nealy as well as actual acrylic solvent. I've heard tell of some HDs actually selling Weld-on but never seen it myself. You'll have to find a place that sells both the solvent and applicator bottles, well, you don't *have* to use the bottles but makes the whole process much cleaner and easier.
Call around to the local plastic shops, all they can do is say no but you'll need to know which solvent you want, Weld-on 3, 4, or 5. You won't sound like a moron at all, that is, after all - what they do for a living.

James
  #96  
Old 05/28/2005, 03:58 PM
Scottm Scottm is offline
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James,

xtrstangx is local to me so he is going to stop by next week and I am going to help him cut his parts and prep them. I'm also going to hook him up with some #4 and a bottle and needle so he should end up with everything he needs.
  #97  
Old 05/28/2005, 10:21 PM
H20ENG H20ENG is offline
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Thats why this is such a great hobby!! Right on Scottm.
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"Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches"
  #98  
Old 05/29/2005, 03:34 PM
Acrylics Acrylics is offline
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Very cool Scott Good luck and have fun with it xtrstangx

James
  #99  
Old 05/29/2005, 03:49 PM
bond007069 bond007069 is offline
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would weld on #16 work for attaching base plate and top flange on a Ca++ reactor?
  #100  
Old 05/29/2005, 03:52 PM
mfinn mfinn is offline
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Can extruded and cast acyrlic be permanently glued together?
What about the product acrylite? Can it be used with the other two?
 

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