Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Italian Stallion]

if i wanted to make a 4" flange or circle out of acrylic how would i do it

[bond007069]

How about gluing Cast to Extruded? Is this ok.
Would weld-on #16 work best.

This would be for the base plate on a Calcium Reactor.

TIA

[Acrylics]

Stallion,
Use another 4" circle as a template, just use a flush cutter (flush terim bit). The bearing will ride along the template, the cutter will cut your new piece.

Bond,
Gluing cast to extruded is fine using any solvent, if you are comfortable using #16 - then there ya go

James

[SUMMERS]

Originally posted by Italian Stallion
if i wanted to make a 4" flange or circle out of acrylic how would i do it

You can use the method James mentioned above or you can also pickup one of the Jasper Audio Circle jigs. Wastes less acrylic and allows for mutiple diameter holes/circles without having to keep multiple templates on hand.

The 200 is what I use http://jasperaudio.com/

[Ehydo]

Originally posted by SUMMERS
You can use the method James mentioned above or you can also pickup one of the Jasper Audio Circle jigs. Wastes less acrylic and allows for mutiple diameter holes/circles without having to keep multiple templates on hand.

The 200 is what I use http://jasperaudio.com/

Does that require you have a hole on the center of the piece as a guide?

[SUMMERS]

Yes it puts a 1/8" hole in the center but I cut it out anyway when making flanges. There is an adapter (model 350) that allows for cutting without the hole.

The sweet thing about the Jasper jig is like when I cut out a flange set for 8" tubing (10.5" flange) I can use the inner circle thats cut out (7.5") for something else like 4.5" tubing or a reactor or something. Where as other methods pretty much require the entire piece in the middle to be wasted.

[Stile2]

Hey James,

A basic question. I am planning on building a new sump. About 21"x19"x18". Can I get away with 1/4" thick acrylic or should I go 3/8"? It will have an eruo brace on the top.

Thanks

Keith

[SUMMERS]

You can use 1/4" but would need a very wide brace on the top to cut down on bowing. You really should use 3/8" material to build the sump. Should not cost much more and will be much more rigid and allow for a smaller perimeter brace.

[Ehydo]

Originally posted by Stile2
Hey James,

A basic question. I am planning on building a new sump. About 21"x19"x18". Can I get away with 1/4" thick acrylic or should I go 3/8"? It will have an eruo brace on the top.

Thanks

Keith

I built my sump/refugium out of .22 acrylic and it was 36Lx12.5wx18.5h

It has 2 inch euro lip around the top for support. It has three access holes cutout so I left 2-2inch braces in the center. I would not trust it any other way. There are also 2 baffles which help in the support and the side walls are doubled where the bulkhead is drilled and where weight is high.

[Acrylics]

Keith,
I think the previous two posts answered it well. Pesonally, I won't use anything less than 1/2" for aquaria of any sort. Just a safety factor to me and allows for no crossbracing on sumps of that size. If it's a small sump, then the difference in cost is minimal. Then again, maybe I just like thick material

James

[Ehydo]

Originally posted by Acrylics
Personally, I won't use anything less than 1/2" for aquaria of any sort.
James

Wow you must get a good discount. I do not even know where to find 1/2 inch near my house.

[H20ENG]

James,
I built an adjustable upright router jig like yours, and I have to tell you its awesome! I built a reactor body, then just shaved the top off perfectly to glue on the flange.
Thanks again!!
Chris

[thecoralreef]

I'm adding a baffle to my sump to create a section for a refugium. The water level will be about 4-5 inches difference in the compartments. I'm using weldon #4 to glue the baffle in place. I was wondering how long this should dry with clamps on before I should use the sump again?

[Ehydo]

You can take the clamps off after 4 hours and you can put water in it after 48 hours.

[Scottm]

I built an adjustable upright router jig like yours, and I have to tell you its awesome! I built a reactor body, then just shaved the top off perfectly to glue on the flange.

I've been looking into this lately - care to share any pics ?

[trapassi]

I would also be interested in any info on an "upright router jig".

Thanks

[bear27]

I have two questions regarding acrylic tube
First is how do you square off a end that has been rough cut,and second is what is the best way to pass pvc tubeing or bulkheads thru for makeing reactors and such

[Acrylics]

Chris,

Glad it worked for ya

Scott & Tom,
I don't know if I still have any pics of it, I had to redo my 'puter's HD so lost quite a bit. Maybe we can convince Chris to show some pics of his. I'm out of the shop for a spell so can't get any new ones myself...sorry

Bear,
The best way I have found is using the upright jig the above 3 posters are referring to. For cutting holes in the tube, a hle saw can work but if you are good with a router - you can make a jig for it.

James

[Italian Stallion]

well guys i am new to the acrylic thing and need some help i purchase a router table and am trying to learn to use it

hear is my problem when i pass the acrylic through i have a hard time controlling it so i purchased 2 feather boards and mounted them vertically on top of the acrylic wich seemed to help a good bit

i would like to mount a featherboard flat to the table but my table is a little small when i am working with large pieces of acrylic

my main problem is how do i better controll the acrylic and when i get to the hole in the middle of my guide rail where the blade spins i cant controll the acrylic so i either shave off too much or not enough what should i do

would a planning jointer be better than a router for me

[GreshamH]

You could modify your fence with another board that has basicly very little clearance for the bit your using. I've done that in the past and it sure helped. Cheap solution

[BtheReef]

Stallion, what type of router do you have? I am looking into buying one for woodworking and acrylic work. Any suggestions from the tradesmen as well?

I also have a few beginner questions about acrylic working. I need to bend the acrylic and read elsewhere that you could heat it in the oven to do this. I this viable, or should I invest in a heat strip? Where can I purchase one if I needed it?

Also, do I need any special tap for acrylic? Which brand or type is best for this type of project. I would like to tap the acrylic for nylon screws.

Thanks for any information.

[Italian Stallion]

well guys i am new to the acrylic thing and need some help i purchase a router table and am trying to learn to use it

hear is my problem when i pass the acrylic through i have a hard time controlling it so i purchased 2 feather boards and mounted them vertically on top of the acrylic wich seemed to help a good bit

i would like to mount a featherboard flat to the table but my table is a little small when i am working with large pieces of acrylic

my main problem is how do i better controll the acrylic and when i get to the hole in the middle of my guide rail where the blade spins i cant controll the acrylic so i either shave off too much or not enough what should i do

would a planning jointer be better than a router for me

anyone else have any other tips

GreshamH

i will try the board adjustment

Reef Base i use a craftsman router

[H20ENG]

My router jig is basically a tall thin box that I can clamp to the table. A piece of melamine with side guides allows it to slide up or down the side of the box. I am working on some handwheel type screw clamps to hold it. For now, its just clamped.
Just remember to make it really stiff, thats why mine is almost a whole box, not just a plank with a router stuck to it.
I'll try to get a pic, but really its just some scrap wood glued and air nailed together.

[Vincerama2]

Originally posted by Reef Base
Stallion, what type of router do you have? I am looking into buying one for woodworking and acrylic work. Any suggestions from the tradesmen as well?

I also have a few beginner questions about acrylic working. I need to bend the acrylic and read elsewhere that you could heat it in the oven to do this. I this viable, or should I invest in a heat strip? Where can I purchase one if I needed it?

Also, do I need any special tap for acrylic? Which brand or type is best for this type of project. I would like to tap the acrylic for nylon screws.

Thanks for any information.

The Porter Cable 690 is very well regarded and almost all router accessories fit it. The newer PC model is the 890.

For Plunge routers, I've heard good review for the Hitachi 12V (I think that's the model number)

Heat strips are pretty pricey, if you look at the Tap Plastic website.
Heating it in the oven is a bit contraversial, because acrylic might give off gases that might cause a fire or it's toxic or something.

Any tap will work.

V

[GreshamH]

Check out the place in Salt Lake City for acrylic heating strips. Delvies Plastics IIRC.