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#51
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I am not that brave.
I am still scared to try the regular foam even though others are. I am contemplating the idea..... |
#52
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here is mine rocky backdrop
how it is ???? any comment as i going to start to make a tunze rock wit it |
#53
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Sunny03 can you get a better picture...maybe an angled one too? It looks good. To make a Tunze rock get a Stream pump and build a cover out of cement and crushed coral. I guess you would design lke they have with its outlet fitting into a piece of metric PVC. I would think you might want to anchor the PVC fitting to the structure. You need to build a cavity large enough to remove the Stream...I guess it would need room for some play. I've never seen an actual cover...It might be easier if you could just reverse engineer one of those...anyone seen one?
d. |
#54
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Quote:
maybe i try to take it in the daytime with my celing lights on. as for the tunze rock can someone take a pic of yours in different angle as i hard to find tunze rock in my area |
#55
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Do a search with "TUNZE ROCK" in the title...there's a ton of info!
d. |
#56
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wow, i tried using a 4in 45* bend (PVC) and let me tell you that stuff FLOATS LIKE A BOAT! Cant get it to stay under water! Id have to pile rocks on top of it just to get it to stay down! lol
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#57
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Sunny03,
From what I can see. It looks very nice! Get some lights on there and keep us posted. My back drop is starting to foster some diatom growth! Hehe. Soon I'll have a burst of green algae and then hopefully, we can settle down to some nice corraline algae growth. Peace, John H. |
#58
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as per request
the rocky background out of water surface |
#59
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here might have some help
brighten the pic with some software dont you guys think it looks like a reef wall with all the coraline on it after a few months |
#60
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That looks pretty damn convincing. May I ask you how you built it? Where'd you got those massive rocks to inbed into the foam?
Peace, John H. |
#61
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the rock i got it from the LFS as sun dried dead rock. around 11kgs. after cleaning it again with FW i dry it again.
first lay the egg crate flat on the floor choose those heavier and bigger rock as the base rock secure them with some cable tie just in case. inject some of the form into the gaps just enough to make contact with the rocks and the egg crates ;not too much as the will make the rock float. next choose those light and odd shape rock to make those over-hanging cliff. cave etc. in between tbe rocks inject the form again just enough to came into contact with the rocks. before waiting for the form to dry add a few pcs of corals chips or small shells and push it into the form. this way it will make the form less visable for others and i had bits and pieces of coral chips and shells from the pic you can hardly see the joints of the form. hope that help you |
#62
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Excellent idea sunny 03. That will be a nice setup once it is all setup. I like the cliff and overhangs. Makes it look real dramatic.
Peace, John H. |
#63
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bumping
__________________
my fish don't love me. they love my turkey baster. |
#64
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Sunny03, that looks great. That is exsactly what I want. Did you do anything to hide the zip ties on the front of the rocks and did you use zip ties on all the rock are just the bigger ones?
__________________
The more I learn, the less I know. |
#65
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Quote:
i tied those rocks on the base (usually heavier) only as for the rest i just use the form to hold them together. |
#66
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sunny,
I think that you have used a great idea. I really like the use of the eggcrate to make a doubly secure. I was wondering. Did you use sections of eggcrate, so the whole thing isn't just one amazingly heavy backdrop? Peace, John H. |
#67
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Hi
I used some of this "Great Stuff" for a waterfall area for my small paludarium. The area is 24x24 high and is only 3 inches thick at the base. Agheres to anything it touches before curing.. If you make small puffs in rows you can add another layer after about 10 minutes and go as high as you want, It can also be carved after curing, I usrd acrylic paint to change the color. Has been in use since Feb. no deflating and is still holding all the driftwood solid as a rock. The acrylic paint will protect it from UV degradation. I was afraid the constant abrasion of the waterfall would wear it off but not yet. The secret is to let it throughly dry at least 2 days. I have not tried it in salt water but made wonderful rock walls for rift lake cichlids.. Did an 8 foot tank with all kinds of caves and overhangs. The entire detail weighs around 3 pounds and cost under 10 bucks. My kind of decorating lol Gary |
#68
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gstark,
Thanks for the technique. I think I didn't ever get to make really cool overhangs. Peace, John H. |
#69
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Do NOT use the Latex foam! The stuff never hardens, and will just dissolve away. Stick with the polyurethane sticky goo
__________________
"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
#70
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Anyone know if acrylic paint is safe in SW?
__________________
The more I learn, the less I know. |
#71
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RedEyeReef,
I know that Fusion paint is safe. I've been thinking of trying out that fake art deco paint that you use to paint stuff give it that rocky look. I think the key with using any of these acrylic paints is to allow them proper time to cure to secure a good bond, just like you need to give silicone to cure properly. Peace, John H. |
#72
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Quote:
__________________
The more I learn, the less I know. |
#73
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Hi
Afraid I don't have any pix . Been too cheap to get a digital camera lol. Frances and Jeanne wiped out my memory of the few pix I did have. I've been using an acrylic called "patio paint" available at most craft stores though much cheaper at Walmart. Comes in small bottles in many colors. When completely dry it is non reactive and will last for years. have used it for years in FW. I tested the foam by putting a small puff with the surface covered with the paint in distilled water and waited for chemical reactions. There were none after 30 days. Even withstood the vinegar test. After 48 hours of drying the foam and paint seem totally inert. Of course with a paludarium i want the water to stay very soft and slightly acid While in a rift lake setup the opposite. The foam comes in several formulas varying by the amount of expansion.I've only used the regular type. I've heard of sprinkling it with rock salt which results in it being highly pourous as the salt will disolve when soaked in water. Would this provide bio filtration as in in real base rock?? Kind of an interesting idea.I do know it stays inert so why not??. i seriously doubt it would replace "live rock" but could certainly be used for base rock. I love the material for paludariums and aquariums as you can make any size ,shape or color you desire. Without the weight and expense of the real stuff. Another thing when it cures the texture is much like a hard eraser ,no sharp edges,Great for frog setups!! gary |
#74
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Any good marine 2-part epoxy paint should do the trick to seal the foam. you can find it @HD or the marine section of most hardware stores that sell paint. I think the stuff is fully inert once cured but please verify that. They use it to paint marine boats, so it's durability is well proven to boot.
__________________
Live Long...And Propagate! |
#75
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P.S. If I can find marine paint in Calgary, Alberta, you should be able to find it ANYWHERE!
__________________
Live Long...And Propagate! |
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