having acrylic tank built

totalpackage181 · #1 01/07/2005, 01:39 AM

well to make a long story short......all the fish from my 80 gallon tank are in tupperware containers and the shattered 48x16x24 glass tank is going to the bin.....I only thank god that i was home and saved all my fish and corals!...what are the chances anyways of the bottom shattering and draining directly into my sump bellow, only a glass or two was spilt on the carpet in my second story apartment...phew

So off to the lfs i went and it seems everyone is only stalking the 18" wide tanks, and no i dont want to nail a 2x4 to the back of my stand to compensate for the overhang, its too visible and i just finished my hood.....can post pictures if anyone is interested houses two 400watt MH...
anyways, the LFS quoted that an all glass reef ready 16 inch wide 24 high tank would be $420......

So..here it is , i found a good plastics place that would build me the same tank in 1/2" acrylic for $510 or in 3/8" for $350. But then it occured to me if i am gonna have it made in 1/2" can i go up to 30" tall? yes top is glued and routered out holes.

It will have bent corners in the front and a centre downpipe 1.5" and two returns 3/4"

much advice on this would be appreciated....

meanwhile my apartment is a disaster

tampa-reefer · #2 01/07/2005, 02:10 AM

Sounds like a Deuce-Biggalo problem.........
Sorry man thats a bummer, i had a 10g crack when i was sitting by it long time ago. I was told not to lean rock against any glass but im hard headed sometimes
Hope You get it all together soon.
What happened to the tank anyway, rock pressure or freak accident?

totalpackage181 · #3 01/07/2005, 02:23 AM

....freak accident, the LR had been in their for 5 years when the previous owner had it.....i just added another 10 lbs to the already 90lbs.....two weeks later.......sounded like a shotgun went off in my apartment...

anyone know about 30" tall acrylic tanks using 1/2" acrylic

sportbiker29 · #4 01/07/2005, 04:04 AM

With acrylic, your recommended max heights are: 20"-3/8 24"-1/2" 30"-3/4"

If you decide to go taller you will have to deal with some bowing and possible crazing of the joints down the road. Companies underbuild their tanks all the time and they hold water but IMHO the tank looks like crap after a year!

Dr. Beer · #5 01/07/2005, 05:59 AM

James Steele (username: Acrylics) of Envision Acrylics quoted me a very reasonable price on a 36"x28"x28" custom aquarium, with external overflow, eurobracing and black back. He is going to use 1/2" cast cell acrylic to build my tank, which to my limited knowledge is the strongest, clearest and most durable acrylic practical for an aquarium. You might want to send him a PM and see what he can make for you.

sportbiker29 · #6 01/07/2005, 02:35 PM

There are exceptions to the thickness to height ratio for acrylic like when the tank is 36" or less a step down in acrylic thickness is sometimes ok given the other dimensions of the tank. Width of a tank can also play a small role.For example, a 72x24x24 is fine at 1/2" acrylic but if you go 72x36x24 3/4" acrylic should be the way to go. James at Envision Acrylics is a great fabricator and builds some of the best tanks around. You should always check with him before getting an acrylic tank built!

urnmyway · #7 01/07/2005, 02:52 PM

i would say go with the 3/8 not the 1/2
i built my 130 out of 3/8

sportbiker29 · #8 01/07/2005, 05:07 PM

Total package 181: Sorry for somewhat stealing this thread! If you don't mind spending the money, 1/2" acrylic looks much nicer. If your tank is going to be a reef than 30" tall has many draw backs like lighting that deep! I would stick to 48x16x24 IMHO!

Urnmyway: I was checking out your gallery since you live in Ontario, California. I'm in Pomona so I was just curious about the tank you built since that is what I do. After seeing your gallery I have a huge concern about your tank. Cryo Acrylite FF is extruded acrylic and should "never" be used in large water applications. It's even highly recommened not to use extruded acrylic for sump applications as no aquarium company does. Cast acrylic is a must for aquariums!!! If you use Cyro Acrylite it needs to be Acrylite GP not FF. This isn't meant to be a slam at you only information to further your knowledge in acrylic fabrication!

sportbiker29 · #9 01/07/2005, 05:10 PM

I will mention Urnmyway that the stand and canopy do look amazing! Is that a clear overflow in the backof the tank? Are the corners bent or mitered?

totalpackage181 · #10 01/08/2005, 07:01 PM

sportbiker....im not too worried about the light..i am running 2 400watt 14,000 k lighting......plus cold cathode moon lighting for night( 2) ...should be enough to get 30" deep...and i am planning on keeping clams, so any feedback appreciated....i will definately go with the 1/2 inch ...i would rather overbuild considering where my fish are calling home right now.....

Acrylics · #11 01/09/2005, 10:28 AM

Totalpackage181, considering the 48" length of the tank you're looking at, I'd think that 1/2" would be fine though I wouldn't go any thinner. If you are specifying the access cutouts on the top, please remember to spec out the flange width (3") , crossbrace (6"), overflow hole (circular), and the access hole corner radius (1.5" min). This should leave you with two openings measuring roughly 18 x 10".
The flange width is obviously the perimeter flange's width, 3" is a good starting point.
The crossbrace is wider to accommodate the overflow hole which inherently becomes a weak point.
Because of this inherent weak point, it is recommended that you make the hole over the overflow a circle to reduce stresses - plus it looks cool

. So if the overflow is 5 x 5", make the hole like 4" or so in diameter.
Probably the most overlooked design aspect of acrylic tanks is the access cutout radius. Most acrylic tank failures are due to a crack from the access cutout to the front or rear panel. If you make this radius 1.5 - 2", you will greatly reduce the chance of your tank ever failing by distributing stress better.
BTW, none of this stuff should cost much, if any extra $$ as there is nothing in the above that is difficult or takes any significant extra time. In fact, most fabricators would rather have everything spec'd out for them so they don't have to decide for you (liability issue) or stop production to ask questions.
The large radius on the access cutouts take no extra time if done on a CNC and maybe an extra 10 minutes if done by hand.
If I can find a pic to post today showing the above, I will.
Oh, also have them bevel the access and overflow cutouts so you don't cut your arms while reaching in there - extra 5 minutes

HTH,

James

urnmyway · #12 01/09/2005, 09:16 PM

sportbiker: yes that is a clear overflow in the back and the corners are bent NOT mitered. thanks for the info on acrylic i will check into that.

shanekennedy · #13 01/09/2005, 10:47 PM

30" will be too deep to reach you hand to the bottom, unless you add a lot of sand.

totalpackage181 · #14 01/10/2005, 02:46 AM

james thank you again for all the advice....it has been instrumental! one last thing though......i am having a real problem deciding between a centre box, or a corner downpipe and corner return..........if i go with the centre downpipe and return, teh closest part of the hole should be no closer than 1.5" from the back? and 2" is better, and if the return line was right beside it, what is the minimum distance between the holes? 2" ....i am planning on a 1.5" downpipe., and 1" return...do these sound correct to you? or is 1" a little big, i am planning on pumping about 600 gallons an hour from the sump!

by my calculations that would make the centre box about ( 1.5 inches from side, 2" hole( through hole is always bigger for fitting) 2" between holes,1.5" for return, and another 1.5 inches on side" ) = 8.5 inches, so 9 inches long x 5.5 inches wide....

....the question is if i have them make a centre box as outlined above, a round access hole is out...so rectangular with routered round corners would be the next best thing right?

or do you think two corner boxes is a much better way of doing it?
p.s there are a couple of tanks on ebay, that have the centre boxes as i was describing.....take a look if my description is confusing

Thank you again so much for all your help! You are truely a benefit to reefers everywhere

Acrylics · #15 01/10/2005, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by totalpackage181
james thank you again for all the advice....it has been instrumental! one last thing though......i am having a real problem deciding between a centre box, or a corner downpipe and corner return..........if i go with the centre downpipe and return, teh closest part of the hole should be no closer than 1.5" from the back? and 2" is better, and if the return line was right beside it, what is the minimum distance between the holes? 2" ....i am planning on a 1.5" downpipe., and 1" return...do these sound correct to you? or is 1" a little big, i am planning on pumping about 600 gallons an hour from the sump!

by my calculations that would make the centre box about ( 1.5 inches from side, 2" hole( through hole is always bigger for fitting) 2" between holes,1.5" for return, and another 1.5 inches on side" ) = 8.5 inches, so 9 inches long x 5.5 inches wide....

....the question is if i have them make a centre box as outlined above, a round access hole is out...so rectangular with routered round corners would be the next best thing right?

I think all of the above will be just dandy

2" between holes is good, there is no real law about this where acrylic is concerned - just make sure you have the spacing between bulkheads for the actual bulkhead flanges. Also make sure that the bulkheads will clear any beams in the stand so there is no interference and you have a little "wiggle room" for your hands to actually tighten the nut.
I always like to use the biggest possible returns so 1" would be great, you can split it into (2) 3/4" returns with Loc-Line if you like and it should work well.
Given the size of the overflow, there is no reason to go past 1 - 1.25" on slot height for the overflow teeth if using these slots as each 1/4" slot will yield a nominal 30-35gph per 1" of height.
If you can't use a hole for the overflow access, then yes a - rectangular cutout w/ radius on corners would be the next best thing. If using say a 4.5" x 7.5" cutout, see if you can just "stretch" a 4.5" hole - shouldn't be any problem for the fabricator. Just make sure there is some "meat" in the top to allow for this larger cutout area. You may have to have the 2 access cutouts shortened or put a 45 degree angle on the cutout so that the centerbrace will spread back. I think I have a pic of such a cutout in may gallery if you want to take a look-see

Quote:

or do you think two corner boxes is a much better way of doing it?
p.s there are a couple of tanks on ebay, that have the centre boxes as i was describing.....take a look if my description is confusing

The overflow as you described above will work well so IMO there is no *good* reason to use the 2 corner overflows because depth is limited on this tank and using corner overflows would cut into this limited viewing area.

Hope it all turns out well for ya

James