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  #1  
Old 11/10/2007, 10:48 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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a little help for tough coraline on glass

Ok you know the hard green coraline that shows up on the glass...

I get tired of having to break out the scrapers etc to get this stubborn stuff off...

Does not help that my tank is 32" tall and is on a 42" tall stand... it is a real chore to reach the bottom 12" of the tank even on a ladder and up to my shoulders in the water..

I have tried razors, long sticks, razors on magfloats and a few other things and they all work but have problems with each.. I mostly hate how it tears up the silicone seals...

SO... I over the last 2 months have been using something a bit unorthodox.. a steel scrubby from the grocery store..

This is pretty much like steel wool but is more of a coiled ribbon of stainless steel or similar material..

I first washed the stuff out with dish soap and hot water..

I stretched out the coils and created what looked like a single layer and then trimmed it off with a pair of scissors.

I then layed this single layer of the tiny coils over my mag float and dropped it into the tank.

This thing does not scratch the glass and makes short work of the hard algae (green and purple). It also cleans the silicone seals without tearing them up.. (my favorite part)..

Sorry I doubt this is a very good idea for acrylic tanks..

I then remove the magfloat when done and simply store it.. no rust or loss of material so far...




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  #2  
Old 11/10/2007, 11:55 PM
ahullsb ahullsb is offline
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Nice I think I'll try that. The corners are quite a problem for me as well.
  #3  
Old 11/11/2007, 12:38 AM
ryan scott ryan scott is offline
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try using an old credit card they work pretty well and they dont rust like razors
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  #4  
Old 11/11/2007, 02:01 AM
tygger tygger is offline
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Interesting... but it looks like it would scratch the glass...
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  #5  
Old 11/11/2007, 02:05 AM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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as I posted, it does not scratch the glass.. (at least so far after 2 months)
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  #6  
Old 11/11/2007, 03:56 AM
uscharalph uscharalph is offline
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I can't believe that doesn't scratch the glass.
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  #7  
Old 11/11/2007, 07:10 AM
rkelman rkelman is offline
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Great idea. It doesn't surprise me in the least that it doesn't scratch. We use steel wool on windows in cars without scratching.. The scraper on the Mag Float works for me. How I do the silicone is I take the rough velcro material off an old Mag Float and wrap it over the end of a pole from an old scraper. Works good.
  #8  
Old 11/11/2007, 08:18 AM
t-bone2 t-bone2 is offline
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the scratches will show up after you let water out and make the glass look hazey, nothing that couldnt be buff out though
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  #9  
Old 11/11/2007, 10:31 AM
asm481 asm481 is offline
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Mr Clean Magic Eraser. Just tried it a couple days ago and think it is awesome. That hard green spot algea came clean in two swipes. Turn it often as it's pores plug quick and rinse out quicker.
  #10  
Old 11/11/2007, 12:12 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by asm481
Mr Clean Magic Eraser. Just tried it a couple days ago and think it is awesome. That hard green spot algea came clean in two swipes. Turn it often as it's pores plug quick and rinse out quicker.
whoa why would you use something that comes apart as you use it...

the whole idea here is to have something that cleans without doing damage or leaving inorganics behind...

I would certainly not use something like that on a live system..
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  #11  
Old 11/11/2007, 12:15 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by t-bone2
the scratches will show up after you let water out and make the glass look hazey, nothing that couldnt be buff out though
Ok, will try this again..

the product does not scratch the glass and if it did, you can not just "buff out" scratches in glass..

Scratched glass is a tough program to fix. Acrylic is a lot easier to fix but even it is not a cakewalk when it comes to scratch repair..

This is not a cleaning method to be used by an acrylic tank owner, it will rip it to shreds...
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  #12  
Old 11/11/2007, 12:17 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randall_James
Ok, will try this again..

the product does not scratch the glass and if it did, you can not just "buff out" scratches in glass.. (is why i have been using this for a couple months prior to posting)

Scratched glass is a tough program to fix. Acrylic is a lot easier to fix but even it is not a cakewalk when it comes to scratch repair..

This is not a cleaning method to be used by an acrylic tank owner, it will rip it to shreds...
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  #13  
Old 11/11/2007, 12:17 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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dp
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  #14  
Old 11/11/2007, 05:31 PM
t-bone2 t-bone2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randall_James
you must be talking about gouges and yes you can buff out scratches in glass
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  #15  
Old 11/11/2007, 09:36 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by t-bone2
you must be talking about gouges and yes you can buff out scratches in glass
tell you what, you go find a piece of "scratched" glass and "buff" out the scratches and let me know how it goes and how long it took... with out specialized tools and compounds, I know you are not going to get very far.

Glazes and fillers are about the only method of removing (actually filling and hiding them) the scratches. There are some kits that will allow you to "polish" glass and remove the scratches but I can assure you that this is more than a simple "buffing" out of the problem and they have less that satisfactory results most of the time.


Rockwell hardness of glass (non tempered) is about 130
Tempered glass is 150-200
Hardened steel 100
Stainless steel is 80-100 with most running in the mid range
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  #16  
Old 01/10/2008, 04:39 PM
AJtheReefer AJtheReefer is offline
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thinking about trying this. the red coraline is driving me nuts
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  #17  
Old 01/10/2008, 04:51 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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Yep still going strong... just do not leave your magfloat in the water during the down time as it will eventually find a chink in the coating on this stuff and start to rust...

I have also found if I leave a bit hanging over the side, it does a good job on the corner opposite of the glass I am working on. (uses the side of the magfloat as a "push" against the corner)

short strokes seem to work best on the "red/purple" coraline. Having the "scrubbie" on the patch of coraline when changing direction seems most effective...
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  #18  
Old 01/10/2008, 09:56 PM
mfp4073 mfp4073 is offline
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rather than going after it with actual steal wool, I have been using the "artifical" plastic kinds of scrubbers and sponges. Works pretty good.
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  #19  
Old 01/10/2008, 10:18 PM
Finding Emo Finding Emo is offline
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Also if you are really lazy you can just get a sea urchin(s)
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  #20  
Old 01/10/2008, 10:25 PM
Randall_James Randall_James is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mfp4073
rather than going after it with actual steal wool, I have been using the "artifical" plastic kinds of scrubbers and sponges. Works pretty good.
Well you may as well use a regular scraper (metal bladed tank scraper) or the plastic ones. They work fine if you can reach the spot.. and if you are using a plastic scrubby, you must have your hands in the tank..

The top of my tank is at 75" and the tank is almost 36" deep with starphire glass.. climb a ladder, stuff your arm in up to your shoulder and you still can not reach the bottom.. mechanical arm scrapers tear up the silicone seal no matter how careful you are and I do not feel like having to reseal the tank.. But yes if you have a shallow tank, can reach the viewing panes and have acrylic, the plastic scrubby is probably a great device..

Quote:
Originally posted by Finding Emo
Also if you are really lazy you can just get a sea urchin(s)
Hmm had them in my tank for a number of years and as long as you have any rock in the tank, they are going to gravitate towards it... I think in 5 or 6 years, my urchin may have been on the glass 3 or 4 times?
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