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#1
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a little help for tough coraline on glass
Ok you know the hard green coraline that shows up on the glass...
I get tired of having to break out the scrapers etc to get this stubborn stuff off... Does not help that my tank is 32" tall and is on a 42" tall stand... it is a real chore to reach the bottom 12" of the tank even on a ladder and up to my shoulders in the water.. I have tried razors, long sticks, razors on magfloats and a few other things and they all work but have problems with each.. I mostly hate how it tears up the silicone seals... SO... I over the last 2 months have been using something a bit unorthodox.. a steel scrubby from the grocery store.. This is pretty much like steel wool but is more of a coiled ribbon of stainless steel or similar material.. I first washed the stuff out with dish soap and hot water.. I stretched out the coils and created what looked like a single layer and then trimmed it off with a pair of scissors. I then layed this single layer of the tiny coils over my mag float and dropped it into the tank. This thing does not scratch the glass and makes short work of the hard algae (green and purple). It also cleans the silicone seals without tearing them up.. (my favorite part).. Sorry I doubt this is a very good idea for acrylic tanks.. I then remove the magfloat when done and simply store it.. no rust or loss of material so far...
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#2
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Nice I think I'll try that. The corners are quite a problem for me as well.
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#3
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try using an old credit card they work pretty well and they dont rust like razors
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620 litre main tank with 150 L sump Aquamedic aqua sunlight 3x 250watt with 4 T5 80watt and moon light on light computer |
#4
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Interesting... but it looks like it would scratch the glass...
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15g Nano 72g reef + 29g sump/fuge **Click on my lil red house** |
#5
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as I posted, it does not scratch the glass.. (at least so far after 2 months)
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#6
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I can't believe that doesn't scratch the glass.
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Ralph Mendoza Jr. Long Beach, CA |
#7
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Great idea. It doesn't surprise me in the least that it doesn't scratch. We use steel wool on windows in cars without scratching.. The scraper on the Mag Float works for me. How I do the silicone is I take the rough velcro material off an old Mag Float and wrap it over the end of a pole from an old scraper. Works good.
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#8
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the scratches will show up after you let water out and make the glass look hazey, nothing that couldnt be buff out though
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It's all smoke and mirrors |
#9
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Mr Clean Magic Eraser. Just tried it a couple days ago and think it is awesome. That hard green spot algea came clean in two swipes. Turn it often as it's pores plug quick and rinse out quicker.
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#10
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Quote:
the whole idea here is to have something that cleans without doing damage or leaving inorganics behind... I would certainly not use something like that on a live system..
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#11
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Quote:
the product does not scratch the glass and if it did, you can not just "buff out" scratches in glass.. Scratched glass is a tough program to fix. Acrylic is a lot easier to fix but even it is not a cakewalk when it comes to scratch repair.. This is not a cleaning method to be used by an acrylic tank owner, it will rip it to shreds...
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#12
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Quote:
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#13
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dp
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#14
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Quote:
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It's all smoke and mirrors |
#15
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Glazes and fillers are about the only method of removing (actually filling and hiding them) the scratches. There are some kits that will allow you to "polish" glass and remove the scratches but I can assure you that this is more than a simple "buffing" out of the problem and they have less that satisfactory results most of the time. Rockwell hardness of glass (non tempered) is about 130 Tempered glass is 150-200 Hardened steel 100 Stainless steel is 80-100 with most running in the mid range
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#16
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thinking about trying this. the red coraline is driving me nuts
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90G AGA, 30G Sump, SLS Tek Lights 8x54w, H&S A150-F2001 |
#17
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Yep still going strong... just do not leave your magfloat in the water during the down time as it will eventually find a chink in the coating on this stuff and start to rust...
I have also found if I leave a bit hanging over the side, it does a good job on the corner opposite of the glass I am working on. (uses the side of the magfloat as a "push" against the corner) short strokes seem to work best on the "red/purple" coraline. Having the "scrubbie" on the patch of coraline when changing direction seems most effective...
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
#18
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rather than going after it with actual steal wool, I have been using the "artifical" plastic kinds of scrubbers and sponges. Works pretty good.
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Bristle worms are evil and need to be eradicated, at night they creep out of the tank and charge internet porn to your credit cards....ask me how I know. .....they call me chad |
#19
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Also if you are really lazy you can just get a sea urchin(s)
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John 15:13 Greater love has no one than this, that someone lays down his life friends. |
#20
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Quote:
The top of my tank is at 75" and the tank is almost 36" deep with starphire glass.. climb a ladder, stuff your arm in up to your shoulder and you still can not reach the bottom.. mechanical arm scrapers tear up the silicone seal no matter how careful you are and I do not feel like having to reseal the tank.. But yes if you have a shallow tank, can reach the viewing panes and have acrylic, the plastic scrubby is probably a great device.. Quote:
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"It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear" |
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