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#51
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Very nice
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I especially like the Neon Tetras in the FW tank beside it, and pics of that, is it planted to?
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Ever danced with the blue devil damsel in the pale moon light?¿ |
#53
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#54
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But it only serves as reserviour for extra plants, and hence it is very messy |
#55
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This was how the tank look like a year ago, before upgrading to the current one
Substrates are crushed oysters shells, beach sands and silts collected in rocky shore The leaves were much more lush green then now. This is a big mistake to use aragonite only for the new tank, I am considering to remove the sand bed, fill up the bottom with mud and silt first and cover it up with aragonite.
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A picture worths a thousand words..... |
#56
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#57
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Perhaps it is time to consider NO3 supplement or even fertilizer to boost the seagrass growth, any recommendation for it? Surprisingly, the cukes are very gentle to the grass. They are not interested in anything but the sand. I tried to place some finely menced krill on the sand bed and they avoided it too. Perhaps I have too many of them, I shall return some of them to the sea this week. Normally, hermit crabs sift the sands for debris and cut away epiphytic algae on Halophila's leaves. However, they will pick on H. ovalis's young leaves if they are starving. Not very ideal for seagrass tank I think. Fire fish, yeah all of them jumped up and dead |
#58
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#59
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Good to hear from you again! If you have access to KNO3 I would continue to use it and keep the dosing into the 2-5ppm range. I keep mine 5-10ppm and have no ill effects on fish but I dont have any really sensitive invertebrates. Cucumbers may not like nitrates so high. I wonder if they are eating cyanobacteria.. each time NO3 hits zero in my tank it comes back.
Otherwise, I'm not sure what's available to you for fertilizers and such. Amano's ADA products might be available to you or possibly Dupla or Elos? Any of these should have decent fertilizers meant for planted aquaria that should be a good place to start. Be careful if you go the route of using fertilizers meant for land plants. They often contain ammoniacal nitrogen source which is like candy to algae species not to mention they are almost always much much too high in phosphates. Keep up the good work! >Sarah
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"Seaweed is cool, seaweed is fun, it makes its food from the rays of the sun!" "Wild means everyone owns it, and no one owns it." ~3rd grader |
#60
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Halophila-
Here is latest shot of the tank we have here in the classroom. I was able to pull together quite a few species of seaweeds. They really took off when I added them: I really have to figure out how to get better pictures. Here is the log page with more updates: http://entomology.wisc.edu/~dbiggs/m...g/tnkI_II.html The tank has a lot of empty vertical space on top; I cropped this image. I intend to add a swimming fish or two as well as some branching soft corals to improve composition. |
#61
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That is classic NO3 limited growth, KNO3 is cheap and easy to add, there are dosing calculators and you can make a solution.
I think the uptake rates are certainly slower than FW tanks, (2-4ppm per day) and finding the export of the NO3=> N2 gas is an issue, but you can remove the plants to find that vs a tank(but how much is N loss through leeching from the plants?) I would add perhaps 5-10ppm a week and see how much uptake you get. I would also suggest a better kit if you want to maintain low lebvels of NO3 consistenly. Hanna makes a decent unit for about 180$ and then you need to buy the reagents. I would make a set of standards(not a bad class room project either BTW) over 0.1ppm, 0.5ppm, 1, ppm, 2ppm, 5ppm, 10ppm and 20ppm NO3. Lamotte test kits are okay but after you add the 4.4 factor, they are off by a few ppm. At low levels and precise predictions, this is not that good of information. It's fine if you want to target 10-20ppm and do not kind larger water changes. I think folks could get away with that, and control their PO4 more critically. I'd NEVER suggest using aragonite alone for a macro macro tank or any tank. Always vacuum an established tank and add the fresh muck to the new tank's bottom 1/2". Add a little soaked soil etc. Onyx sand instead of arag if you prefer darker color. That is the best thing you can add for any new tank start up. Some add laterite etc to prevent too much reduction to H2S(this does not last forever though). Regards, Tom Barr http://reefcentral.com/agreement.php Last edited by DgenR8; 04/16/2006 at 06:41 AM. |
#62
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Hi Tom,
I started a small reef tank with some shoal grass on one side of the tank. My subsrate is 7" deep but it is aragonite. What would you suggest adding to the substrate for better growth of the sea grass, macro's and corals? Bill |
#63
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After getting back to 25% water change per week, stuff is going back to right track; and I will be setting up a 15 liter experimental seagrass tank very soon. So, maybe I will stick back to the current regime and carry out the fertilizer testing in the small tank. It is good to have another for control experiment too! For the small tank, I am planning to use the sand and mud collected in a nearby mangrove and rocky shore as basal substratum. Last edited by halophila; 11/06/2005 at 10:35 AM. |
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Eleodes, it is nice to see another marine planted tank , what is the macros right hand side in the bottom? is it a sea grass? |
#65
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recent addition, a pretty slow grower, Ruppia maritima:
Ruppia's photo on the net: http://images.google.com/images?svnu...uppia+maritima
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A picture worths a thousand words..... |
#66
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Halophila-
No, that's not a seagrass. It's just Caulerpa paspaloides. This tank doesn't have the substrate or light to support seagrasses. We are setting up a second tank and I am pondering whether to try to make seagrass theme for it. |
#67
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Any organic source, mulm from an established tank's vacuumed DBS will also work fine. Main thing is to provide the bacteria with a carbon source and something to cause some reduction to occur in the DBS. It's not really a nutrient source, it is a cycling component for the bacteria which are the transformers/sinks/sources for the nutrients besides the dosing you might do. Regards, Tom Barr |
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is there any place with a list of pics and names of the sea grasses?
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#69
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i did some more aquascaping today and here's a somewhat better picture:
this can't compare to Halophila's tank shots in natural sunlight. i have added some soft corals and they are very happy. |
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Worth the $ if you have a passion for these plants. (55$ and 90$ ea respectively) FYI, the C paspoliedes will turn white on the older growth if you do not have enough NO3. KNO3 is easily obtainable through many source and is quite good(pure). Same with KH2PO4 etc. You may also consider Ca(NO3)2, since it adds more Ca+, and marine systems have little issue with K+ levels. I may get to doa 15ftx4x5 Salt tank soon. We have a 1500gal Discus planted tank coming up. I may do a warm water angiosperm marine tank soon also. Right now I have to still get that cold water marine planted Cube done up. Regards, Tom Barr http://reefcentral.com/agreement.php Last edited by DgenR8; 04/16/2006 at 06:39 AM. |
#71
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IMO its time for an update!!!!
I'm pointing people to this thread for use of normal window lighting... do you do anything special? other than having AC what other problems have you come across using lighting from outside?
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my advice:walk away. do nothing. til tomorrow. if its still alive, it will hopefully be fine. If you do not see it, do not try to find it. it may be hiding. just LEAVE it alone |
#72
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maybe somebody should PM or email halipohila to see if he is still out there(?).
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#73
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bojangsjang, that's how it looks like now
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A picture worths a thousand words..... |
#74
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beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#75
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any updated pics???
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Cam Barr |
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