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  #476  
Old 09/25/2007, 12:38 PM
euroreef euroreef is offline
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tbone28,

No worries. We just wanted to be sure we clarified any misconceptions before people started getting the wrong ideas.

We will be posting in our forum as soon as we have results from a test we are conducting. Hopefully within a few weeks.

Have a great day!

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  #477  
Old 09/25/2007, 12:40 PM
tbone28 tbone28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
That is a screw in cap, used to close off plumbing. What I did was drill a 3/16" hole in the top, and set it on the pipe to make it silent.

After a while, saltcreep will glue it to the pipe and your skimmer will work less well (vacuum-related). Eventually I cut a piece of rubber and placed it inside the cap to act as a cushion against the top edge of the gray pipe. This keeps it from vibrating and the drain stays silent.
Marc,

follow-up question. The ER manual recommends that the drain be cut so that it is above the water level (I angled my drain to accomplish this). However, the water splashes into the sump, which is not only loud, but causes a lot of microbubbles. When I lower the drain so that it is below the water level, it is hard to adjust the water-level inside the skimmer.

Does your screw-in-cap allow the drain to be underwater and adjust the water-level inside the skimmer?
  #478  
Old 09/27/2007, 01:54 PM
scotmc scotmc is offline
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Here is a picture of my 135. I am going through an alage bloom now and the skimmer is working great. I am skimming in the middle of wet and dry. This is after 3 days. Great product for the money spent.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...IMG_1836_1.jpg
  #479  
Old 09/29/2007, 07:55 PM
melev melev is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by tbone28
Marc,

follow-up question. The ER manual recommends that the drain be cut so that it is above the water level (I angled my drain to accomplish this). However, the water splashes into the sump, which is not only loud, but causes a lot of microbubbles. When I lower the drain so that it is below the water level, it is hard to adjust the water-level inside the skimmer.

Does your screw-in-cap allow the drain to be underwater and adjust the water-level inside the skimmer?
Quick comment to Brian first: Salt creep is real, and I know another reef who's huge EuroReef didn't work for weeks. I went over and could see the salt through the opaque tubing, and ran boiling water through each one until they were completely clean again. Skimmer was back in action.

Tbone - my cap isn't screwed on. It just sits on top of the gray PVC. The outlet is submerged several inches, but it is well below the height of the gate valve so it doesn't matter. I had some spare round tubing in the garage, and made a cylinder for the skimmer's output to pour into, with a could of pieces of 3/8" acrylic for feet. It contains the bubbles and mostly only water comes out the 3/8" gap at the base of the cylinder. It if was in a place where you could see it, I'd take a picture but it is pretty much hidden behind the skimmer body.

I prefer silence, and try to avoid any splashing in the sump.
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  #480  
Old 09/30/2007, 01:14 AM
got_rice76 got_rice76 is offline
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gate valve 1.5" does not fit

sorry i tried to read all of the post in this thread, but it's just too much
I just got a ER RS180 (brand new)
I ordered the 1.5" Sch40 gate valve from Savko

Got the valve, but it does not fit any of the pipe on the RS180
They are not using 1.5" sch40? i am confuse

It was about 1mm bigger than the normal 1.5" sch40 pipe sold at Homedepot/Lowes. The End join indicated it's UPVC what ever that mean, not PVC

What should I do, try to enlarge the gate valve to make it fit? did ER change something recently?
  #481  
Old 09/30/2007, 02:09 AM
zibba zibba is offline
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I went ahead and cleaned out the airline tubing with ro/di water which, as always, seems to help. But my final consensus is that some PE Mysis I was feeding caused the skimmer to shut down for a few hours. Sometimes it can be hard to point to one specific thing that causes a slight problem. Everything seems to be back up and running properly now.

Thanks for your help.

Quote:
Originally posted by melev
It could be the pump is possibly beginning to fail, since it isn't pushing in enough water and air. Or perhaps you have a vapor lock issue, such as placing a cap on the riser tube like I do. If it seals tight with salt creep, the water level drops in my skimmer as well.
  #482  
Old 09/30/2007, 08:59 AM
melev melev is offline
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Ah yes, PE Mysis is very oily and will shut down a skimmer for sure.
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  #483  
Old 09/30/2007, 09:01 AM
melev melev is offline
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Re: gate valve 1.5" does not fit

Quote:
Originally posted by got_rice76
sorry i tried to read all of the post in this thread, but it's just too much
I just got a ER RS180 (brand new)
I ordered the 1.5" Sch40 gate valve from Savko

Got the valve, but it does not fit any of the pipe on the RS180
They are not using 1.5" sch40? i am confuse

It was about 1mm bigger than the normal 1.5" sch40 pipe sold at Homedepot/Lowes. The End join indicated it's UPVC what ever that mean, not PVC

What should I do, try to enlarge the gate valve to make it fit? did ER change something recently?
I don't know the answer to that one. When I wanted to add the gate valve modification to my Euro-reef, I bought the matching kit from Premium Aquatics for $40.

I noticed this is your first post!
[welcome]
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  #484  
Old 09/30/2007, 09:22 AM
sjm817 sjm817 is offline
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The new ERs have a wedgepipe twist type outflow. Is this what you have? If so, it is metric. With the twist type outflow adjustment, there is no need for a modification anyway.
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  #485  
Old 09/30/2007, 09:24 AM
rckrzy1 rckrzy1 is offline
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OK, I'm a new owner of RS100 . And my first observation is there seems to be a large area in the reaction chamber being wasted. As in the water/air mixture is injected half way up. It would seem if the entry was lower there would be more interaction time ?

I may try what I did on a ps75, put a 90 degree elbow on the inside aiming down. I am not really concerned if any bubble escape because of this.

What do you think ?

Adam
  #486  
Old 09/30/2007, 09:28 AM
sjm817 sjm817 is offline
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The reason for the gap in the bottom is to prevent microbubbles from exiting the skimmer. Give it some time to break in. The bubbles will go lower.
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  #487  
Old 09/30/2007, 11:54 PM
got_rice76 got_rice76 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by sjm817
The new ERs have a wedgepipe twist type outflow. Is this what you have? If so, it is metric. With the twist type outflow adjustment, there is no need for a modification anyway.

YES, from looking at the twist type flow control(what i have), I see that it almost identical (act similar) to the gate valve, so I guess the gate valve is not really needed on the new ER RS180 like you said.

i have been reading a lot on RC but never post anything.
I am more active on nano-reef and austin reef club.

I have been running a 29 gal SW over a year now. Building up a 120 gal now, almost got everything in place for water test. Will post set up pic when it's time. took a few months of planning/drill/ and cut.

almost there

thanks for the reply.

Last edited by got_rice76; 10/01/2007 at 12:01 AM.
  #488  
Old 09/30/2007, 11:54 PM
got_rice76 got_rice76 is offline
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double post.. delete this one
  #489  
Old 10/03/2007, 09:08 AM
GoCougsKev GoCougsKev is offline
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Hello everyone, new to RC and saltwater tanks. I am currently building a 120 gallon reef tank and I had purchased RC180. My only issue with this skimmer is how noisy the air intake is. The air intake sound is by FAR the loudest component on my tank. The air intake valve is wide open, but it makes a lot of noise no matter what setting I have it at. Anything I can do to suppress the noise?
  #490  
Old 10/03/2007, 01:56 PM
melev melev is offline
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What about removing the valve?
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  #491  
Old 10/03/2007, 02:28 PM
hahnmeister hahnmeister is offline
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take about a 4" length of PVC (3/4" or 1" will do), and cap it. Then, drill both ends just large enough to run airline through both snuggly. Put the airline in the one end (er, the valve I suppose), and then put another piece of airline on the other. I you can, overlap the two airlines inside the PVC... this is how a car muffler works. Anyways... that will kill the noise.
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  #492  
Old 10/03/2007, 07:40 PM
Antman Antman is offline
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Hey quick question , when I clean my cup the side walls of the cup are full of brown solid waste -shoud the skimmer pull this out should I raise my water level Or is this normal ?
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  #493  
Old 10/03/2007, 07:51 PM
melev melev is offline
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When you said side walls, are you talking about the riser in the center of the cup? This should be cleaned off, and one of the reasons I personally recommend cleaning the cup daily.
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  #494  
Old 10/03/2007, 07:53 PM
Antman Antman is offline
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Yes the center of the cup riser
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  #495  
Old 10/03/2007, 08:04 PM
melev melev is offline
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Definitely clean it out regularly. As it builds up, skimmate production drops off.
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  #496  
Old 10/04/2007, 01:19 PM
GoCougsKev GoCougsKev is offline
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hahnmeister: Thanks for the tip. I did this last night and seems to work fairly well. I am thinking about getting some Carbon after work and filling the 'muffler' with carbon. I would think this would dampen the gargling noise even further? Regardless, it works well, thanks again!
  #497  
Old 10/08/2007, 08:59 PM
dpbort dpbort is offline
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Hello Everyone, I am a member of the aqua C club but now I want to be a member of the Euro-Reef Club. I hope you can help me. I want to use an RS-180 for my system however I want to use it as an out of sump model. I currently have a basement sump so height is not a problem. Has anyone used this skimmer in the manner? I do not know if the RC-180 is worth the money.

Any help would be appreciated


Dennis
  #498  
Old 10/08/2007, 09:46 PM
Fishfreak218 Fishfreak218 is offline
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Hello,
I am looking to start a 45-50g. SPS cube w/ a SSB and need your help, I have the RS135 on my 90g. mixed reef and am very happy with it but I have some questions. I am debating going with a RS 180 or the RC80 but dont know what to do. Is a recirc. skimmer better then the in-sump skimmers? Which do you think is better for a med-high bio-load 45-55g. SPS cube w/ a SSB [1"]?
thanks alot!
-Josh
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  #499  
Old 10/08/2007, 09:51 PM
melev melev is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dpbort
Hello Everyone, I am a member of the aqua C club but now I want to be a member of the Euro-Reef Club. I hope you can help me. I want to use an RS-180 for my system however I want to use it as an out of sump model. I currently have a basement sump so height is not a problem. Has anyone used this skimmer in the manner? I do not know if the RC-180 is worth the money.

Any help would be appreciated


Dennis
I'm pretty sure you can't use a RS skimmer out of sump, since it is designed to draw water from its surrounding area. The RC model coudl be used externally. (If I'm wrong, please someone correct me.)

Why do you want it out of the sump? I prefer mine in the sump where if something goes wrong, the water dumps back into the system. What about over the sump, on a platform?
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  #500  
Old 10/08/2007, 09:54 PM
tbone28 tbone28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dpbort
Hello Everyone, I am a member of the aqua C club but now I want to be a member of the Euro-Reef Club. I hope you can help me. I want to use an RS-180 for my system however I want to use it as an out of sump model. I currently have a basement sump so height is not a problem. Has anyone used this skimmer in the manner? I do not know if the RC-180 is worth the money.

Any help would be appreciated


Dennis
RS is in-sump. However, I've read some threads here where people have modded their RS' to be "RC's" and have run it externally. Not sure how much extra money and time is involved though.
 

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