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  #1  
Old 10/15/2003, 10:36 AM
ahhdui ahhdui is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCAL
Posts: 250
Question major algae problem...

Ok, I need help in finding a solution to this algae problem I have. The tank was blooming (ROSE, LPS, etc...) for about 1.5 years with a refugium and some spaghetti agae (no skimmer). My tank params are: pH=84, nitrite=0, ammonia=0, nitrate=0. Running 4 t5s on a 100g tank for about 9hrs a day during the last 12 months.

Then one day, I decide to try growing some grape caluerpa for my tangs. Keep that for about 2 months and it was growing great. During the 2 months, my glass thermometer broken and I lost many of the metal pellets in the sand bed. Anyway, my corals started to look weak after this 2 month. Xenias that were spreadking like wild fires were starting to die. My torch was getting stringy. My rose was looking smaller, etc...

This is the time my algae problem started. I immediately thought the problem was the calerpa so I riped them all out. Got rid of the xenias and the torch (starting to melt). Did 100 percent water change within a week and ran alot of carbon.

3 months have past and all my corals/livestocks are looking great and thriving. However, the alage problem is still everywhere. It's a thick brown/red coat on the live rocks and covers the whole sand bed. During the day, the algae bubbles up when the lights are on and goes away right before the light goes out. Then during the night, the algae re-appears everywhere again.

Any suggestions on getting rid of this stuff? I was thinking about buying the phosphate sponge media, etc...

--Tony
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  #2  
Old 10/15/2003, 11:04 AM
prof10000 prof10000 is offline
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Location: Austin, TX
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You proabably sparked the bloom with the 100% water change. That water will have to cycle all over again.

Once that began the algae took hold. Shorten your photo period and do many water changes, small ones. Say 10% 1-2 a week.

Then get a skimmer.

Dave
  #3  
Old 10/15/2003, 11:11 AM
ahhdui ahhdui is offline
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No, the algae bloom already took place during the 2 months period. Again, all my params are in check. My only guess is that the phosphates are high (due to the calerpa). Unfortunately I don't have a phosphate tester to confirm. Any other suggestions guys?

--Tony
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  #4  
Old 10/15/2003, 11:14 AM
rleechb rleechb is offline
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why would the phosphates be high because of the caulerpa?
  #5  
Old 10/15/2003, 11:22 AM
ahhdui ahhdui is offline
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That would be my guess because all others are zeros and everything was great until the calerpa and the broken thermometer.

--Tony
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  #6  
Old 10/15/2003, 11:27 AM
AgentSPS AgentSPS is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bay Area CA
Posts: 872
First suggestion would be to GET A SKIMMER

if it is phosphates I would not worry too much about testing for them as many tests are not accurate (or measure the incorrect form of PO4). Phosphates can also be high in certain regions (sand bed) and not others. Just assume you have a phosphate problem to be safe.

Now the fun part...removing it... There are plenty of threads about this dilemma. Here is a current one:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=251077

My personal feeling is that you will never really remove the phosphate. You need to set up a cycle to keep it in check. The algae/cyano bloom is what is thriving off of it now. So just get animals to eat that algae/cyano and you will eventually get things back in check. I have a bunch of cyano growing in my sand bed and have found that the only way to effectively deal with it is fighting conchs.

Other things to help out the cleanup process would be:

Heavy skimming
Kalkwasser additions (keep your PH up and precipitate PO4)
good water circulation
sand sifting animals to keep the DSB healthy
Large water changes
RO/DI or NSW water changes (source water needs to be pure)
Never overfeed (biggest source of phosphate is food)
get your fuge working well again
  #7  
Old 10/15/2003, 01:39 PM
prof10000 prof10000 is offline
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I don't recommend large water changes. Smaller, more frequent water changes are better for the stability of the system.

Dave
  #8  
Old 10/15/2003, 01:43 PM
AgentSPS AgentSPS is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by prof10000
I don't recommend large water changes. Smaller, more frequent water changes are better for the stability of the system.

Dave
If you have high phosphate in your water you will get nowhere with small water changes. Normally I would totally agree with you. But even with the water changes your rocks and DSB are still going to be leeching out phosphate.
  #9  
Old 10/15/2003, 01:51 PM
headhawg7 headhawg7 is offline
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I didn't know Kalk precipitated phosphates. Learn something every day.
  #10  
Old 10/15/2003, 01:54 PM
AgentSPS AgentSPS is offline
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Location: Bay Area CA
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Quote:
Originally posted by headhawg7
I didn't know Kalk precipitated phosphates. Learn something every day.
Just passing on what I have heard...cannot confirm...makes sense though
 


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