What controller

Teddy Ballgame · #1 03/05/2007, 09:19 AM

I just wanted to get CORA's opinion on what controller I chould buy for my tank....I am leaning towards an AC-JR.
Also looking to pick up an ozone gnerator; which do you use or suggest I buy??

Thanks.

Shark Keeper · #2 03/05/2007, 09:43 AM

Teddy,

I would suggest that you look at this link http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/...

I personally am going with the controller that is locally built Biotope controller.

Teddy Ballgame · #3 03/05/2007, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Shark Keeper
Teddy,

I would suggest that you look at this link http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/...

I personally am going with the controller that is locally built Biotope controller.

Where and how much for the Biotope?

Shark Keeper · #4 03/05/2007, 09:57 AM

Chek out that link that I sent you...it has everything on there. It is a great controller for the price IMO....

dgunn · #5 03/05/2007, 11:21 AM

Hey could I have that link as well?

Shark Keeper · #6 03/05/2007, 11:28 AM

sorry here is the link to the thread -

Controller Chart

and here is the link to the Biotope Website - Biotope

Hope this one works!

Wildeone · #7 03/05/2007, 11:52 AM

I have an AC-JR nd love it. I did much research ahead of my purchase and the AC JR was the best bang for the buck.

The only issue I have with it is if I hook up the data cable to my PC and leave it, my PH reading drops due to a ground reference issue on the serial port. I can fix it for $40, but I just leave it unplugged from the PC unless I need to program or grab some data.

sammie · #8 03/05/2007, 02:06 PM

I've had the Biotope unit for about a year now and it's done everything I needed plus some. Ron is a great guy to work with and if you have any problems setting it up or anything he's local in Columbus and very helpful and honest.

He is still making additions and improvements to it so any changes he comes up with are avaliable locally.

I just don't know where he came up with that name....

zeppelin · #9 03/05/2007, 05:32 PM

The biotope unit ROCKS.

radone · #10 03/05/2007, 05:40 PM

Can't wait to get mine, Ron is great he's very helpful and knowledgable about his controller.

I'm in wait for mine but can't wait as I know it will do everything I need.

Easily Distracted · #11 03/05/2007, 06:20 PM

I have had an Aquacontroller for years. I leave it hooked up to a laptop to have easy access to the on/off controller switches as well as continuously graph Temp, Ph and ORP to monitor swings, etc.. The AquaNotes program is archaic and clunky to use. It frequently freezes making the graphing periodically useless. Right now it is stuck on March 1st. If your electrical panel is older or split in a certain way you can get sporadic controller malfunctions. I had the tank in a room next to my bedroom at one point. Let me tell you how much fun it is to have 12ft of T5s kick on at 4:00 in the morning out of the blue....
My issues seem to be software related so if you are not going to use the software, please disregard. If anyone knows of improvements to the software or if someone with programming skills has improved on it, please let me know.

Wildeone · #12 03/05/2007, 11:06 PM

I assume since you mention sporadic malfunctions you are using the wireless X-10 modules. I sell and install X-10 as part of my job and knowing what I know I wouldn't bet my life on it, or my reef creatures lives. I am using the direct kit with mine and I have not had any reliability issues. You can have an electrician add a Phase Bridge to you electrical panel, or you can do it yourself at your own risk. Mine cost me less that $5

I will have to check out the biotope, I was unaware of that unit when I purchased the ACJr.

Easily Distracted · #13 03/06/2007, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wildeone
knowing what I know I wouldn't bet my life on it, or my reef creatures lives. I am using the direct kit with mine and I have not had any reliability issues.

That's scary considering that's what the AQ is sold for. Would I get the direct kit through the AQ company or is it 3rd party? Any info is greatly appreciated.

Quote:

Originally posted by Wildeone
You can have an electrician add a Phase Bridge to you electrical panel,

I'm no longer in that old house. The scary electrical was part of my motivation to move.

szwab · #14 03/06/2007, 08:50 AM

I have an AC III and really like it. haven't had any issues. They have also recently made some software and firmware upgrades that have improved the system over all and sounds like more are being developed. The webserver function comes in real handy I can check on and mae changes to my tank from pretty much anywhere that has internet. I can't comment on the others as I have not used them.

itZme · #15 03/06/2007, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Easily Distracted
If your electrical panel is older or split in a certain way you can get sporadic controller malfunctions...
My issues seem to be software related so if you are not going to use the software, please disregard. If anyone knows of improvements to the software or if someone with programming skills has improved on it, please let me know.

Sounds like X10 issues to me. I would look into getting a DC8 from www.neptunesys.com to find pricing and info about the Direct Connect module. It can be found online for roughly $160 and can run 8 different devices and up to 15A. You can run IceCap ballasts without any issues unlike the X10's. You also have one outlet on the DC8 that can dim for use with lunar cycles if you find moonlights that are dimmable.
There is a DC4 with 4 oulets if you don't have many items to controll and you can save a few bucks.

HTH
-- Kevin

prance1520 · #16 03/06/2007, 04:49 PM

I have an AC JR with a DC8. Its good. I had one incident where I had to reset the firmware. Also, you low voltage specialists out there, my CO2 solinoid will go wacky and flip about 100 times in 20 or 30 seconds. Then it stops. The only thing I can possible find it relating to when my heater kicks on and off. I will also get flickers of my T5s at night. (My soon to be parents in law stayed the night one night and were amazed that my reef had simulated lightning storms at night

).

Its really not a bad controller, but if I were going to spend more money on it, I'd probably buy something else.

Easily Distracted · #17 03/06/2007, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by itZme
I would look into getting a DC8 from www.neptunesys.com to find pricing and info about the Direct Connect module.

Kevin - Thanks for the info!

Wildeone · #18 03/06/2007, 05:49 PM

Quote:

[i] Also, you low voltage specialists out there, my CO2 solinoid will go wacky and flip about 100 times in 20 or 30 seconds. Then it stops. The only thing I can possible find it relating to when my heater kicks on and off. [/B]

Not sure about controllinh CO2 because I do not have it on my system, but is it possibly an issue in thwe program where you are controlling the solinoid without a differential in the program?

Lke telling it to turn on at x and off at x+1and it is itting there toggling because it is on the edge, when you shoud have a differential of x an x+5 or something. Just a guess...

prance1520 · #19 03/07/2007, 10:16 AM

Its programmed for on at 8.15 and off at 8.05, so plenty of differential in between. Even if not, I don't think its a problem. I'm pretty sure the controller only takes a reading every second or so. If you watch when calibrating, it will make a big jump every second or so. I'm getting 3 to 4 clicks a second. Curt from Neptune said it could have to do with the low amount of draw that the solinoid uses, but didn't bother to go into anymore details. I would think that if my soliniod does this, others would as well.

szwab · #20 03/07/2007, 10:21 AM

i have heard the low draw thing for night lights and stuff My solenoid works fine without issues. maybe a bad solenoid? or a loose connection?

ronc98 · #21 03/07/2007, 01:44 PM

Depending on the circuit design the solenoid could be getting its power from leakage current across some of the components. Have you tried connecting something else across the control that pulls more power?

Leakage current is a huge problem with very low power devices.

prance1520 · #22 03/07/2007, 04:45 PM

Per Curts instructions I moved the soliniod onto another outlet on the DC8, but not much luck. A large draw unit (my heater) is currently on the old solinoid outlet, and it seems to be working correctly.

My intentions weren't to hijack the thread with my problems. Honestly, it happens rarely and doesn't seem to cause any problems (other than maybe reducing the life of my solinoid). I just wanted to give feedback on my controller. I wouldn't use my problems as a baseline for Neptune products though, as most people seem to use them with no problems at all.

Good luck on your controller search. Let us know what you get.

Easily Distracted · #23 03/08/2007, 01:06 PM

Prance - I have seen this happen if more than one controller has the same letter/number designation. Also, if your solinoid is a two prong plug and the controller is a three prong, try a two prong lamp type controller. That might be more sensitive to the solinoid.

Sorry - not trying to turn this into an AQ only thread...

EleutheraRox · #24 03/21/2007, 10:47 AM

What kind of connection to a computer do the BioTope and AC III have? USB? Serial?

Thanks,
Mike

szwab · #25 03/21/2007, 11:39 AM

athe AC III has an ethernet connection