couple questions...

phenom5 · #1 12/18/2003, 01:40 PM

hello everybody,
just wanted to run a couple of things by you before i start to build. i've posted these on other forums, but i'm just curious to see what you guys have to say.

first is my stand. using 2 2x4's for all the support post, single 2x4's for top and bottom frame. crossbeams will be 16", not what it says on the drawing, don't know what i was think there. just want to make sure everything looks good, see if it will hold the weight. which brings up a second question, any suggestions on what to use to test out the stand?

second is my sump. the skimmer isn't to scale, obviously. something else about the stand, it will probably be a little wider then 20" b/c of the sump. will that be a problem? if the stand is 21" wide and the tank is 18" wide?

thanks for the help, and thanks to whoever it was that sent me the PM letting me know about this board. i'm down in tucson, so i don't know how often i'll make the meetings, but i'll probably be on here from time to time to pick your brains

BTW the tank is a 75g ( 48x18x20 ).

phenom5 · #2 12/18/2003, 01:43 PM

here's sump

BLUESMAN · #3 12/18/2003, 03:34 PM

I'll start with the stand. On it, I have always used single 2x4's for the legs......works just fine. Bracing every 16" is good, I'd run another length wise 2x4 where the back of the tank sits. I use 3/4 compressed particle board(I believe some call it melite) for the top and bottom. Your sump will depend on what you are using...tank or rubbermaid tote?? My tanks are 80g glass with either 2x31g rubbermaids totes or a single 50g tote. My stands are 49"x 28"(wide) x 36/38" tall. This gives nice viewing and lots of room in sump area( I hate it when it's all cramped below the tank). I did have one Q.....are you running the input for the skimmer from the drain?? Also you might want something larger than an Mag9/12 for return pump, if it will be a reef tank. Look for something that has at least 1500gph @ 4" head for 20X turnover. Hope this helps... Blue

Gerard the fish · #4 12/18/2003, 04:10 PM

"Also you might want something larger than an Mag9/12 for return pump, if it will be a reef tank. Look for something that has at least 1500gph @ 4" head for 20X turnover. Hope this helps... Blue"

Agreed! I have a Mag12 on my 60 gallon... So your 75 would prolly need more...

- g

phenom5 · #5 12/18/2003, 06:50 PM

.....are you running the input for the skimmer from the drain??
kinda looks like that, but no, its draining behind the skimmer.

sump is an old 29g.

conundrum · #6 12/18/2003, 09:10 PM

Is this a glass tank?

phenom5 · #7 12/19/2003, 12:02 AM

yes the tank is glass.

conundrum · #8 12/19/2003, 06:45 PM

good, as a glass tank only needs support around the perimeter.
please allow me to suggest a couple things.

A 3/4 plywood top/bottom. Although you could use MDF (medium denisity fiberboard) the best grade of compressed particle board, it has no strength and will sag under it's own weight. A top would not be needed if the frame was very straight and would not sag, but in real life it would be better to top it with the plywood and place the tank on 1/2 styrofoam to even out the local stress points.
You will need the ply in the bottom for the sump. also if particle board ever gets wet (what.. no way) it will expand in a small local area transfering stress to the tank.

Blue makes several good points, make it tall. Only use one 2x4 for the verticle supports, just ensure they supports the side and some of the front/back. This will give more space inside.

Just build it right and there is no need to test it.

Some people velcro wood paneling to cover stand and allow easy access.

phenom5 · #9 12/20/2003, 02:38 PM

conundrum-
i was planning on using plywood on the top and bottom, the drawing is just of the frame.

Only use one 2x4 for the verticle supports, just ensure they supports the side and some of the front/back
i'll probably use 2 2x4's at the corners, i'm okay on interior room and then i'll be able to sleep easy at night

thanks for everybodies help, build got pushed back till after the new year, don't know how i thought i would get this done between the end of finals and Xmas...

BLUESMAN · #10 12/20/2003, 06:11 PM

It's an 4 hour job...and that's with paint drying time!!!. I have these stands down to nothing!!!2-2x4's are an overkill.....I had my 80g and 55g on my one stand for 4 years with no bowing! Blue

phenom5 · #11 12/22/2003, 02:12 AM

It's an 4 hour job...and that's with paint drying time!!!. I have these stands down to nothing!!!
wanna build mine?

just kidding, so i'm getting the impression i should just use a single 2x4 for each support post...i don't know why its so hard for me believe that a single 2x4 is plenty strong enough...so if i went with a single 2x4 at each corner and one in the center on the back i should be okay right?

AZDesertRat · #12 12/22/2003, 03:53 PM

Thats how I do mine. I use countersunk galvanized deck screws and glue to fasten the corner pieces at a 90 degree angle.

conundrum · #13 12/22/2003, 08:45 PM

It has been a long time and I don't have a reference, but the compression load for a 2x4 is 1100-2200 lb. per square inch. The hard part is building it straight and without twist.

AZDesertRat · #14 12/22/2003, 11:35 PM

I have found lumber at Lowes to be much better than Home Depot. Their kiln dried 2x4s are really dry and not dripping wet and weighing 30 lbs a piece! They are also very straight and seem to stay that way. On the other hand HD has a better selection of acrylic sheet and RO type John Guest fittings. I guess it pays to shop around.