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#151
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catalyst,
[welcome]
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#152
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thanks!
been around but never had an opportunity to contribute coincidentally, I was *just* cruising around your website |
#153
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Then you are twice as "Welcome" as you were before!
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#154
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Thanks, catalyst. I have USPlastics catalog and the pictures don't show whether the fitting is "fluted" or not. The picture on Savko's site seems to indicate that theirs is not "fluted". I was hoping someone had ordered them online and could tell me one of these were the correct ones.
I'll have to call them I guess but they'll probably think I'm crazy. Mickey |
#155
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any idea why Ken's website is down? Anyone have any pics that can post....since they've all disappeared...
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Michael "Thinking is the hardest work there is, which is the probable reason why so few engage in it" - Henry Ford |
#156
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Is the Stockman standpipe pictured in this thread the same thing as Lifereef's "Aqua silencer"?
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#157
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Indeed it is. It is also the same one sold by Premium Aquatics.
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#158
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my web site is down due to negligance. I changes internet net providers and by website got cut off. I have not had access to Frontpage, so I have not been able to put it back up. I will get around to it eventually.
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#159
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Ken, do you need me to host it temporarily?
( a page or two, not your site)
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#160
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It is purely laziness. I have the server space and I have a copy of Frontpage through work. I have to reoganize the stuff and get it posted.
I have been getting quite a few requests for stuff that was on my site. I hope to get around to it with in the next several weeks. Thanks for the offer. |
#161
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Thanks for the reply, Keith.
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#162
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Just got back from HD and the found that the two inch coupling is too wide to fit in my overflow. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do now?
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My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying. |
#163
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use a 1.5" coupling.
Cut it in half and only use the top portion. Then cut the holes in the side of the internal pipe with a miter saw. |
#164
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sorry for the brief reply. My current method of making the standpipes is to cut a reduction fitting such that only a small portion of the coupling fitting will fit into the reduction fitting. I leave about 3/8" to 1/2" of the portion that will accept the coupling fitting. This allows you to just slide the reduction directly on to the inner pipe with out a dremel. I then cut holes in the side of the internal pipe with a router table.
All of the fittings are then glued in place with super glue. YOu could use PVC glue, but it smells too much for me to use. Then drill a 3/8" hole in the endcap and put in 18" of vinyl tubing for the air intake. The hole should just be pushed into the hole to hold it in place and not into the water. The hose acts to baffle the air intake noise. ken |
#165
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gonna make one this weekend.. thanks ken
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my fish don't love me. they love my turkey baster. |
#166
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Ken:
Thanks for the great idea. I have read through this thread and your last post confused me in a couple ways ... 1) Are you now recommending the usage of an endcap with airline tubing instead of a plug with slots cut into for air intake? If so, how is the air intake controled/adjusted? 2) Are you saying that the reducer (that connects to the bottom of the coupling and to the inner pipe) no longer requires the removal of the stop ridge, meaning that the inner pipe slip fits onto the reducer and the top of the inner pipe is only about 1/2" above the bottom coupling? If this is all accurate ... where is the hole cut in the inner pipe? Thanks, Greg |
#167
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Improved Standpipe
Pardon the interjection but this design originated from a man in California and was posted on this forum. I copied it about a year ago and it works well.
Imagine a tall pipe connected to drain. The pipe is just short of your overflow grid bottom. On top of this pipe is where the fitting goes as described prior. I did not gle it in place. This fitting has a threaded top portion into which you can thread an end cap. By cutting a couple of verticle notches into the fitting threads (via hand saw or table saw), you create areas that "leak" air when you thread the top cap on. By threading the top cap deeper into the fitting, you can regulate the amount of air that is sucked into the fitting and drain pipe. This air serves to displace the amount of water going down the drain and keeps the drain from any vapor lock. Without this regulating feature, I found my overflow chamber would rise and fall in waves. I very much appreciate this design created by this guy in California. If you are still around, I would appreciate you dropping a line. I just recall that it first appeared about midway in the first Stockman thread regarding the original Stockman design. I found I could not use Stockman's method on my tank because there wasn't ample room inside my overflow. Whoevere that guy was really hit on a simple, cheap and quiet idea. I am grateful.
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Respect Mother Nature or she just may give you a hard whippin' |
#168
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got any advice on removing my return lines so I can put in your stockman design overflow standpipe? I have a Tenecor tank with two corner overflow boxes. The return outlets are placed low in the corner overflow boxes, about 8 inches from the bottom. the return tubes are 3/4" and go up to the top in a U bend then down to the return port. Unfortunately this tube is blocking the top of the Overflow pipe which is simply a length of 1 inch PVC about 6 inches long with many holes drilled in it. I would like to cut out the existing return lines and place a 3/4 inch pvc going to the top and run it to a new bulkhead and attach locline on the outside with a twin v outlets. The corner overflow boxes are very narrow and tall, about 29" so I dont much room to work with it. Got any advice removing the old pipes? Right now, the thing makes a lot of moise as the water flowing through the overflow grates has a 23" drop before it hits the bottom level of the water going into the drain.
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If it ain't broken don't fix it. |
#169
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can you post a picture?
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#170
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ill put some in my gallery
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#171
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could someone draw a "cut-away" picture or something? im having a hard time trying to figure out how this works.
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#172
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I uploaded a drawing I made with Google sketch in my gallery, hope this clarifies the situation better. Thanks.
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If it ain't broken don't fix it. |
#173
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well did you guys look at it? whaddya think?
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If it ain't broken don't fix it. |
#174
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no comments, ideas? this thread died...
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If it ain't broken don't fix it. |
#175
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Quote:
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...5&pagenumber=2 |
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