Anthony, is this enough outlets for my 180?

deansreef · #1 03/27/2005, 04:20 PM

there are 10 outlets, I am using 1.5 inch up the back and then reduced to 1 inch for the manifold piping. I am planning on getting a sequence reef dart dedicated to running this manifold. what do you think?

deansreef · #2 03/27/2005, 04:22 PM

also Anthony how do I get the pipe under the rim and cut into the overflows for the pump to run aCROSS?

Anthony Calfo · #3 03/27/2005, 04:44 PM

ten outlets is decent for a tank this size. I would have added more (you still can) although not necessarily used them (if your pump is not large enough to drive all)... but at least have some extra tees around so that you can upgrade later, shift caps, open other tees as the rockscape and coral formations change,etc. But a good job overall.

And yes... I definitely would have built this under the lip of the trim. You can ben PVC pipe rather easily (the chaps at Home Depot can tell/show you how... some tools for it too, but heating and soft/slow bends are really all that's being done). This way, you can use elbows when possible and bend the rest when needed. I probably would arc (45 degree elbows perhaps... no bending needed here even) the pipe over the overflows rather than get too close to interfering with the overflow weir.

I hope this is not glued yet? Else you are asking how to build the manifold under the tank lip/trim a little bit late

No biggie if so... cheap enough to cut the manifold and add some couplings to reduce its size and slip it under and out of the way.

I really don't like to have the manifold o the top of the tank this way... it gets in the way while working, and why not hide most all of it discreetly bending that wide plastic trim?

kudos

Anthony

deansreef · #4 03/27/2005, 07:05 PM

anthony,

thanks for the input. It is not glued yet, just pieced together. I was just wondering how to get around the overflows when I bury the pipe underneath the plastic rim of the tank. I was thinking of cutting the overflow plastic on the back and notching the pvc in tightly

what are your thought?

deansreef · #5 03/27/2005, 07:18 PM

Also anthony, with the aga megaflows, what sequence pump do you recommened for my manifold sytem, I want this tank to be an sps dominant tank. So should I purchase the sequence reeflow dart or the barracuda?

Pistonkev · #6 03/27/2005, 08:14 PM

Getting ready to do the same but why not leave it on top. I am going to drill holes on top for outlets to go in. I see it as easy to hide as well as won't have to hassle cleaning around.

picassomike · #7 03/27/2005, 09:27 PM

Since its gonna be sps dominant,I'd get the sequence hammerhead.I've got a 200g,roughly the same dimensions as your 180 except 1' longer.I run a ampmaster 3k closed loop right now,which runs roughly the same flow as the dart.It provides decent flow,but I could definetly use more,and the sps would definetly like more.I myself am going to be switching to a hammerhead in do time.

Mike

Alfalfameister · #8 03/28/2005, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pistonkev
Getting ready to do the same but why not leave it on top.

Salt creep...

deansreef · #9 03/28/2005, 05:43 AM

hammerhead it is...

deansreef · #10 03/28/2005, 05:48 AM

how about the sequence barracuda?

Pistonkev · #11 03/28/2005, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alfalfameister
Salt creep...

So is this going to cause build up around the pipe or is there some fear of clogging?

Anthony Calfo · #12 03/28/2005, 02:50 PM

it really is sloppy, messy, awkward to leave it on top IMO

picassomike · #13 03/28/2005, 04:17 PM

The Barracuda would probably work well to.but more than likely when you get all the rock and all the frags start getting bigger,you'll be wishing you got the hammerhead.

Mike

deansreef · #14 03/29/2005, 07:29 PM

Where did I put the ball valve on the 1.5 inch pipe coming out of the hammerhead pump?

picassomike · #15 03/29/2005, 08:45 PM

Right after the union.The union and ball valve should be as close to the pump as possible,this way when you gotta take the pump off to clean it you loose less water.Put a union and a ball valve on the inlet and outlet.

Mike

dean1977 · #16 03/30/2005, 07:10 PM

I would think that an ampmaster wouldn't be so great because of the back pressure, since its performs poorly against head pressure.

deansreef · #17 04/04/2005, 07:15 PM

update, I added the barracuda-the pressure coming out of the 10 3/4 heads is weak. I am very dissapointed

Anthony Calfo · #18 04/04/2005, 08:16 PM

Estimating the pump needed really shouldn't be so hard my friends.

Its simply a numbers game...

We know what kind of flow (re: resistance/head, etc) can be obtained from each size pipe diameter.

When we sit down and crunch those numbers with flow calculators (X feet of run, X elbows, X feet of head, etc.) and then factor in a little extras. I like to size-up my pump size/flow needs 20-25% to give a healthy resistance to the pump and to allow for age/wear (by releasing the reduction/ball-valve over time/wear... we maintain a more even, targeted flow).

So basically... add up the number of outlets you want/need... the desired flow per each one (I like at least 300-400 GPH for 1/2" effluents... more for larger tees of course) and then reckon that with the path of plumbing you have (again... number of tees, points of resistance, etc.)

You don't have to worry about being too precise... especially if you oversize the pump a bit to be properly conservative. Worst case scenario... you need to cap one or two out of a dozen tees.

FWIW Dean... I have a similar setup, and I opted for the Hammerhead. I have yet to finish the display... will keep y'all posted and I'll show pics of course

No worries at any rate... the PVC is cheap enough and easy enough to reduce, replace, modify for your specific needs.

Anthony

picassomike · #19 04/05/2005, 03:48 PM

I think your main restriction is the reduction of the manifold to 1" instead of 1 1/2".

Mike

docwells · #20 04/05/2005, 04:42 PM

In the January 2003 issue of advanced aquarist there is an article on plumbing and estimating flow from pumps by Sanjay. There is even a program attached that will help you estimate your flow and head. I have tried it and it works well. It helped me plan my pump and pipe size to minimize head loss.
www.advancedaquarist.com

deansreef · #21 04/07/2005, 11:18 AM

doc,

this link goes nowhere??

Toddrtrex · #22 04/07/2005, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by deansreef
doc,

this link goes nowhere??

I'm not Doc, but try this http://www.advancedaquarist.com/index/

Click on Volume II, the Jan. issue is the last listed.

docwells · #23 04/07/2005, 12:15 PM

Thanks Toddrtrex.

My link goes to the general website.

pclausen · #24 04/07/2005, 03:16 PM

Wow, I'm glad I stumpled upon this thread. I'm in the process of setting up a 180 as well w/ a manifold just like that and was going to get a Dart to drive it.

I already have a Hammerhead that is my return pump (fishroom in the basement). The return T off to a 100g fuge, so I'll easily be able to get 20x or more turn over there (as per the other excellent thread I just read here).

Anyway, back to the manifold. I was going to go w/a 1" setup just like Dan, but w/ 12 outlets. The intake will be via a single 2" pipe through the center back wall of the tank. I plan on leaving the pipe at 2" until just before the input to the pump (which will now be another Hammerhead after reading this).

I have a canopy on my tank, so my feeling is that everything will look a lot neater with the manifold above the tank. I mean the whole thing will be covered by the canopy, so I don't see the advantage to putting it in the tank where it will be a lot more visible. The only thing that you will be able to see when viewing the tank will be the tips of the 12 black linelocks just below the surface.

I'm also not sure I follow why salt creep would be an issue. I plan to have a union on the back of the manifold so it will be real easy to remove the whole thing for cleaning whenever needed.

springerhd · #25 04/08/2005, 08:23 PM

I've made something similar for my 180. It has 13 outlets, uses 1.5" pipe up to the manifold then reduces to 1" then each tee reduces to 3/4" for the locline. I am going to use a AM3K initially but am going to quickly upgrade to a hammerhead. I don't expect to use more than 10 of the outlets at a time and cap the other 3, rotating this as necessary.

I agree with pclausen about the positioning of the manifold. I like to distribution of water you get with a manifold but I do not like the appearance of plumbing in the tank. I have built my manifold to sit just inside the rim of the tank, much like deans is. It is not attractive when looking down of the tank, but since the tank will be an in-wall, I am not too concerned about that. I do not expect anything other than the tips of the loclines to be visible when looking at the tank. I would think that if the manifold sat below the rim, with some fitting to allow it to go over the overflows, then the entire manifold would be visible from the viewing panes of the tank which adds to the artificial appearance that we are trying to avoid.