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#26
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Muriatic acid will work better than vinegar.
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#27
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Muriatic has a lot of impurities in it. Vinegar is reef safe.
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#28
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#29
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#30
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If you aren't satisfied with muriatic, then use hydrochloric grade. It's still dirt cheap without the impurities. |
#31
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I had thought possibly to use HCL at one point, but am hesitant to throw it down the drain when it is used. I've used muriatic and probably will do so again, but simply to clean the faces of certain pieces I have done. For commercial rock I want to be able to say that I didn't cut corners or used inferior materials, that to the best of my ability, I used materials known to be safe in the aquarium.
I'll have to check at the local masonry supply - I've never noticed HCL at the big box stores, and online ordering carries a $25US "hazardous materials" charge Finding it might be the limiting factor...
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#32
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Hello:
I am making live rock I have bags of crushed coral and also a bag of crushed Oyster shell. Would you take me apart of appearance what the differences are. What is the higher phosphate content of crushed oyster shell. What could be the source of the phosphrous in crushed oyster shell? I went to Home Depot and Lowes, they sell Portand cement type II-V, not type I-II, can I use type II-V? What is the difference? Thanks so much |
#33
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Mr.Wilson: The reason they spray concrete like driveways and such is to aid in the curing process.
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#34
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ok batch #2 is done, I am going to do a partial water change soon and use the old water in a 10 gallon I have setup in my garage to put the batch in, this will hopefully help the algae right? Do I need a filter running or just an air stone on the rocks?
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#35
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Insane Reefer,
Are you still baking your rocks? I've let my rocks sit now for 48 hours and am trying 2 different baking techniques. In technique one, I took the rocks right from the mold box to the BBQ set on high for 3 hours. After that I let it soak for 2 hours. In technique two, I took the rock from the molding box and went into a soak for 2 hours to pull out as much salt as I could. From there I went into the BBQ for 3 hours. Right now it seems like technique 2 is working best as technique 1 rocks seem a little brittle. If you are still baking your rocks, what process are you using? I'm using the following recipie: 1.5 parts cement:1 part oyster shell:3 parts salt. Thanks, Steve |
#36
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Just fishing for an update on the Jiffy Rock you made Either way, what you plan sounds fine - just keep the lighting low for a while and it seems to help. Air is enough.
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#37
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I get the best results the sooner I bake - between 18 and 24 hours after casting, usually. I keep my temp at around 450°F, and keep a pan of water in with it to provide moisture, I also bake them for 4-6 hours, depending on the size of the rocks. The vinegar bath should follow the salt release. For the bath, try 3 days in 2 cups of vinegar to each gallon of water - you just need to cover the rocks with the solution. Rinse really well after they have sat, and refill the bin and allow to sit over-night, then drain. I then finish out the kure, a week or so with a couple of water changes. I am going to try one rock, right after the acid bath, to see what it does to a test tank, just for curiosities sake.
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#38
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IR,
I just checked my technique 2 rocks again now. It's like 3 hours after bake. Those rocks are strong as heck. The ones I baked first are nowhere close. I baked the rocks in an old gas BBQ I had running it full blast. I recon I'm running about 450 maybe 500. I put a steel bowl of water in there for moisture. Do you think it's worth keeping my technique 1 rocks? I don't want to put too much work into them if they are just going to end up failing. Do you think the backing permanently damaged the cure? These rocks are cheap so maybe it's worth just tossing them. Thanks, Steve Last edited by spike78; 07/08/2007 at 02:50 AM. |
#39
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I made a ton of rock yesterday using the old school recipe. I'm not going to bake them but rather let them air cure for a month or so before soaking. Do you mist or spray the rocks periodically during this air cure to aid in the curing process or do you just let them dry out?
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#40
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Quote:
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#41
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Neptune, mist them every few days - moister is better. I find that putting the rock in black garbage bags, outside in the heat (but not in the sun) works really well.
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#42
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It will be interesting to hear back from Sunkool, who was also going to try a batch of Jiffy Rock out in his BBQ/Smoker.
I have wondered how real flame would effect the bakes; flame is a harsher heat then an electric element, and it may be possible that providing enough moisture during the bake could prove to be difficult. It is one reason I have been hesitant to built an outdoor baker - I would prefer electric, but am having trouble figuring out how to wire the electric in such a way that the wires won't melt from the heat generated in the barrel. Propane would be ever so much easier, and can get the parts to build it at Walmart for about $30, but don't want to waste money and effort if the end result isn't what I am hoping for. Just curious Steve, How much propane did you use for your bakes?
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#43
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IR the project rocks (group 3 for me) are entering the PH testing stage. Tomorrow is the first PH test.
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#44
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Awesome, AZ
Have you made rock before? If so, how did this compare for you? Are you pleased so far with the rocks? If your end pH is in the 9 range, would you say this method was worth it, as far as effort put forth and in time/water saved? Granted, the testing phase will make this take longer then it will once I'm certain most people will get the same results, and we feel that the long term testing isn't really necessary anymore, but I've been able to finish the kure in a week or so with a few water changes in the rock I've been doing lately, where I skip the testing phase - I've only had a few rocks that took as long as 2 weeks to do, from cast to finish.
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#45
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Thanks....this is my first try at official reef rock. It is very brittle now but I assume it will harden up considerably as it cures in the next couple weeks? Also, on the subject of Perlite..... I did a TDS test on the stuff today. My tap water has 147ppm as is.....after my RO/DI unit I am at zero. I filled three plastic cups (one with tap, 2 with RODI and tested TDS on all three to make sure I get the same #'s. One RODI cup was used to rinse off particles from the perlite so I could test the chunks after they soak in the other RODI cup for 1/2 hour. I am surprised at the initial results.........Both the RODI rinse/prewash and the "official" soak cup still register ZERO TDS after 1/2 hour with the perlite. I will leave them overnight and test again tomorrow.
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#46
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whoaa, this thread has changed a lot. so when after i make the rock, let it sit for a week or so, then it put it water.. does it have to be in tap water or r/o water? when i test it it has to be in r/o water?
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#47
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It basically took me 3 batches to get to the point where I'm happy with my process. I'll try and take some pictures of the rock I made yesterday and post them. I'm probably going to run another batch today. Just need more salt . If these rocks cure OK, I think I'd REALLY recommend baking the rocks if you have the means. It gives you pretty quick feedback if the mix you used is going to work and seems to make the rocks extremely strong. |
#48
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A propane BBQ will give you the Co2 and water you need for a quick cure.
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#49
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y dont you just put a batch in a fire pit or a fire place instead of burning up your propane.
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#50
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By using the BBQ I can close off the cooking area as much as possible and keep the cooking area humid. As well, the area I live in has a burn ban in effect which makes a fire pit a no/go.
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