DYI Kalkwasser reactor question.

[rpgraff]

Originally posted by NoFear29
Anyone have the plans or a link for the plans to this reactor.

TIA

The link posted above http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/nilsen.htlm is a good starting point. I have several other links at home and will post them tonight if no one else has by then.

[GROSSR]

bump

[greeneyedblackcat]

Just puting in my 2cents, I prefer to run all my plumbing outside the reactor {easier to clean}, you can monitor the solution through the clear 4.5 inch OD tubeing and it glues up just fine to standard plumbing fittings, it is well worth the extra money, the lid is made from a martha stewart airtight container from Kmart{easier to fill} and for the pump i use a maxijet 1200, I use a pvc trap to prevent siphoning. cost for entire unit was about $80. See pic attached.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>GEBC

[NoFear29]

GEBC,

I like the external plumbing. Do you happen to have any larger pics you could post or send me?

NF29

[kevin gu3]

Any more info on the Martha lid? Can't really see what it is in the photo.

Thanks!

[greeneyedblackcat]

here is another pic of the lid, the container is about five bucks, I just cut the flange off of the container and glued it in a 4 inch pvc coupleing.

[greeneyedblackcat]

its air tight and works great

[GROSSR]

I stopped off at Kmart for my Martha Stewart purchase. I think she would be suprised at how her products are used. Anyway, they only had 1 left with 1/2 of the bar code( Kmart nightmare -- price check). Needless to say, I did not get it. It was 5.49, just as you said.

Did you use the clear portion of the container at all? Would that have fit into the 4" coupling? What did you use to glue it in - PVC glue or Weldon type glue?

For those interested, it has 2 green "buttons" that you squeeze to release the lid. The rubber test cap from Lowes was 5.59 and is more involved to remove and put back on.

[greeneyedblackcat]

Yes, the containers top ring fits into a standard 4" pvc fitting , I just cut the top 2 inches of the clear portion of the container off and glued it with standard all purpose pvc/abs/cpvc glue from home depot, the ring is slightly tapered so use liberal amounts of the glue. it works great and has not leaked, I also used the same glue for the entire reactor without a problem

[greeneyedblackcat]

I bought two martha stewart containers so I would have a replacement if the high ph from the lime had some kind effect on the lid, the lime dosent hurt this lid whatsoever, it has worked flawlessly.

[GROSSR]

I used the Martha container,but the I just cut the bottom off. It slips nicely into a standard 4" pipe, I don't need the coupling, and the best part is that I can see if the mixture is cloudy or clear when I dose. You get about a 3-4inch window in which to view the mixture. I also seperated the input and output of the powerhead by about 8-10inches. I used a clear vinyl pipe so I can see the mixture.

thanks

Rich

[greeneyedblackcat]

The maxi jet pump gave out, so i replaced it with a mag#2, the mag has a much larger impeller and a ceramic shaft. It should give longer service>>>>>>>>>>>>>GEBC

[GROSSR]

Now that I have it all set up and running, how long and often do your run the pump?

Anyone have deal on a PinPoint PH monitor?

thanks

Rich

[greeneyedblackcat]

I run mine for five minutes every four hours, for your ph monitor go to WWW.diyreef.com they have a ph monitor for less than fifty bucks.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>GEBC

[NoFear29]

Ok got my Reactor built and have a few questions.


o Does 5 minutes every 4 hours seem like the going rate for mixing?


o How much Kalk are you guys adding to your reactor/how long does it last.


Just as a sidenote, I came across this PH tester from aquatic ecosystems. $18.00 and allows for calibration. So far it has been working great. Here is the link, and do not forget to order 7.01 and 10.00 calibration fluid if you buy.


Mini PH Checker


Nf29

[GROSSR]

That looks like the same thing at ThatFishPlace for 53.00. Great find. What calibration stuff is needed, I see buffer and fluids? How much is needed to calibrate? I noticed some of the them are in pints and only last 6 months.

Can it run continuous? Also, does the probe or tip need to stay wet?

thanks

Rich

[greeneyedblackcat]

Mixing every four hours for five minutes works for me, as far as how much kalk, I put about five heaping Tbsp in and it lasts for about 6 weeks.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>GEBC

[NoFear29]

I bought the 7.01 solution for the low end calibration and the 10.00 for the high end calibration. I think the bottles of calibration fluid were 5.99 each. The come with quite a bit so they should last me a while. To calibrate you stick the probe into the solution and you turn the set screws at the top of the probe to match whichever solution you are using (7.01 or 10.00). There are instructions that come with the PH checker to explain all of it. Just make sure you order the solution with the PH checker.

The probe it at the end of the device. It cannot be removed, or in otherwords it is not on a wire. Basically, when you need to check the PH, you take the cover off of the tip of the probe and place it in some tank water. You do not need to keep it wet, just clean it when you are done checking the PH.

So far, it has been working great. Much better than mixing and shaking and comparing colors.

NF29

[RalphP]

Hi
These reactors have confused me.All the are, is a vessel for mixing the kalk.Am I correct.Can I make one and then use a Kent doser?
Thanks
Ralph

[RicoJ]

What are you guys using to get the kalk from the reactor to the sump? Are you using a dosing pump?

These are my plans so that I don't have to use a dosing pump:

What I would like to do it put a T on the output of my RO holding tank (which is under presure) one leading to my drinking water faucet the other one leading into the input of the Kalk Reactor. The output would be connected to a float switch in my sump. When the water in the sump goes down, the float switch will activate which will cause water to dispense from the RO holding tank, into the kalk reactor input valve which will the water from the kalk reactor to ultimately go to the sump.

Rico.

[MarkS]

I could not really understand Steve's posts, but it seemed that he advocated the use of 4" OD acrylic when using 4" PVC fittings. I just wanted to add and possibly clarify this point... It will not work! The inside diameter of 4" PVC fittings is 4.5". If 4" OD acrylic is used, you'll be left with a .25" gap.

I know the more experienced DIY'ers here already know this, but Steve was not clear and newbies might not know...

[Steven M]

Originally posted by MarkS
I could not really understand Steve's posts, but it seemed that he advocated the use of 4" OD acrylic when using 4" PVC fittings. I just wanted to add and possibly clarify this point... It will not work! The inside diameter of 4" PVC fittings is 4.5". If 4" OD acrylic is used, you'll be left with a .25" gap.

I know the more experienced DIY'ers here already know this, but Steve was not clear and newbies might not know...

Thank you for pointing that out, hopefully this make more sense.If not let me know.
I made mine out of 4" extruded acrylic, not 4.5". The 4" acrylic fits in stander 4"pvc pipe much cheaper (top,middle,bottom $2.50 for 2' for 4"pvc)I used a stander 4" inside pvc(pipe not pvc fittings, the pipe is 10' long stander 4" pvc the store well cut if for you) to make the top 3" long, middle 4"L,bottom 2"L pieces.(The bottom 2" piece is used to fill the gap in-between the 4" acrylic and the 4" pvc closeout fitting on the bottom see pic) The extruded acrylic has a outside of 4". I ordered the 4" acrylic (outside) thinking it would fit the standard 4" pvc fittings,(it does not fit) the pvc fittings are 4.5"(inside) . I found the acrylic is measured outside and the pvc is inside. If you wont to use pvc fitting you well need to order 4.5" acrylic. thank you Steven m

[MarkS]

Oh, I see. Instead of gluing the acrylic inside the fittings, you are gluing them inside of 4" PVC pipe. You corrected your mistake when purchasing 4" OD acrylic. Makes sense now!

[Steven M]

The web site listed above said to use 4" acrylic, but the acrylic should be 4.5" outside to use pvc fittings.

[NoFear29]

Here is a post I just placed in another thread. Maybe someone here can give me some insight into this.


Zeph.... I am glad you are still keeping up with this thread. I have you Auto-Topoff running for some time now, no problems. Thanks for the great DIY project.


I just completed my DIY kalk reactor, and hooked it in with the auto-topoff. I had a leak last night because my Martha Stewart lid popped off (Martha Stewart Cap Link) and caused a leak. It seems that my water pressure might have been a little to high for the lid. I have since added some teflon tape and a little weldon 16 to the inner surface to create some more friction. It seems to be holding.

Zeph, I just wanted to make sure I ran this thing correctly with the DIY topoff.

I have it plumbed this way. RO/DI unit to solenoid, solenoid to kalk reactor, kalk reactor to secondary (fail safe) float switch in the sump. Does that sound right to you? I was a little leary about running the Kalk through the solenoid. How do you have yours running?


Update:

The Martha lid keeps popping off during the times that the tank tops off. I am using a Zephrant DIY top-off system that sends power to the electric float switch six times a day to check the water level.


My kalk reactor is set up the same way as yours Greeneyedblack cat.

At the bottom coupling I have the output of the powerhead. At the center I have the powehead itself along with the powerhead input and the RO/DI input. At the top I have the effluent and an air purge valve.

Not only does the Martha lid pop off but the efluent level in the reactor drops below the effluent output in the reactor each time, running the excess effluent into the sump. I am guessing that means that I am not airtight... And my guess would be the Martha lid.


Any suggestions on how I can tighten this up>??


NF29