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  #76  
Old 12/03/2007, 12:10 AM
teambutterfield teambutterfield is offline
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  #77  
Old 12/03/2007, 01:41 AM
FOSELONE FOSELONE is offline
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what camera is that butterfield...same as ying's?
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  #78  
Old 12/03/2007, 02:27 AM
teambutterfield teambutterfield is offline
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Canon 40D
  #79  
Old 12/03/2007, 02:44 AM
FOSELONE FOSELONE is offline
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whats the difference with 30d & 40d ???
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  #80  
Old 12/03/2007, 11:56 AM
faded1004 faded1004 is offline
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geez, the came so far from the 10d i have...
  #81  
Old 12/03/2007, 12:50 PM
cthetoy cthetoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by photobret
The RAW mode is not a feature I would really worry about for now. Its an advanced file capturing mode, used mainly if you are going to be doing a lot of post production work and dont want to lose quality from a JPEG which is a compressed file. JPEG is fine for almost everyone, I shoot for magazines and almost everything is in JPEG unless I need the quality of RAW. RAW files also take up huge amounts of space on your computer, its a great feature but one to keep in mind for later. Concentrate on composition and exposure first. Your shots have definitely improved though.
I shoot RAW exclusively for one reason - White Balance control. Most pictures under 20k looks too blue. With RAW it take less than 2 seconds to remove the blue to a more natural color. RAW does wonders when I take people's pictures in cloudy days or in the shade and most pictures is too blue/green. RAW can add that extra warmth to the photo.

RAW does take extra space but with the cost of memory card and hard drives so cheap and constantly declining I take pictures in both RAW and JPG together. I think the XTI allows you to take both format at the same time simultaneously (P, AV, TV, M modes only). The RAW editor program that comes with the Canon camera is weak though. Photoshop or Capture One Pro is way better with more control but costs $$. Lightroom 2.0 from Adobe is very good which cost alot less the Photoshop
  #82  
Old 12/03/2007, 02:06 PM
photobret photobret is offline
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cthetoy, I agree but Yinger is only just beginning, best to shoot on an easier file format without having to worry about RAW converters and the like. Its fine for photographers that have the post production experience.
  #83  
Old 12/03/2007, 07:53 PM
FishyBiz FishyBiz is offline
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Question for both you guys.
I want to take some nice pics of my fish so I put my XTi in TV mode. ISO at 200, shutter speed really high like at 1/2000 but the F stop stays at like 5.6.
My pics just come out black.
How can I make the shutter speed really fast and keep the lighting?
  #84  
Old 12/03/2007, 07:56 PM
glaudds glaudds is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by FishyBiz
Question for both you guys.
I want to take some nice pics of my fish so I put my XTi in TV mode. ISO at 200, shutter speed really high like at 1/2000 but the F stop stays at like 5.6.
My pics just come out black.
How can I make the shutter speed really fast and keep the lighting?
You can up the ISO, but then you will get more digital noise or graininess. Do you need such a fast shutter speed to capture you fish?
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  #85  
Old 12/03/2007, 08:00 PM
FishyBiz FishyBiz is offline
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Also
Any of you professional photographers out there (my area) willing to give a little class on how to work my XTi? Say just like an hour or so. I do better at learning hands on rather than reading books. Mostly focusing on taking fish pics.
Shoot me a PM. (willing to pay for your time obviously)
  #86  
Old 12/03/2007, 08:02 PM
FishyBiz FishyBiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by glaudds
You can up the ISO, but then you will get more digital noise or graininess. Do you need such a fast shutter speed to capture you fish?
I guess not but whats the point of it being to go up to 1/4000? Taking pics on the sun?
  #87  
Old 12/03/2007, 08:10 PM
cthetoy cthetoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by FishyBiz
Question for both you guys.
I want to take some nice pics of my fish so I put my XTi in TV mode. ISO at 200, shutter speed really high like at 1/2000 but the F stop stays at like 5.6.
My pics just come out black.
How can I make the shutter speed really fast and keep the lighting?
Is your f/ 5.6 or 1/2000 blinking in your viewfinder? It should which means that your camera is telling you the picture will come out underexposed. Either go lower on your f/stop if your lens can handle it or raise your ISO. Also if you are using a zoom lens shoot at a wider angle and you can go lower on your f/stop. The more expensive zoom lens allows you to shoot low f/stops at all zoom ranges. You can also lower you shutter speed to 1/500 or even 1/250 which should be fast enough to capture swimming fish. I don't even shoot at 1/2000 for capturing moving race cars.
  #88  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:00 AM
roxy25 roxy25 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by FishyBiz
I guess not but whats the point of it being to go up to 1/4000? Taking pics on the sun?
well the sun is not moving fast ...... 1/4000 would be trying to take a picture of a rain drop hitting the floor and catching the image crisp and clear not blurry, The faster shutterspeeds are for fast moving objects.
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  #89  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:45 AM
photobret photobret is offline
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Would love to give you a lesson on Photography but unfortunately time is short when you are on call all the time as a press snapper. Anyway try this, set your iso to 400, now you dont mention what lens you are using but use Av mode, this will let your camera decide what your shutter speed will be, put the camera on a tripod as I'm kinda sure you might get some blur if you hand hold. For faster movement use a lower Aperture like 5.6 for example. Some more expensive lenses will let you go to 2.8 but they are pricey. camera will decide shutter speed, now at 400 iso you should be ok at 5.6 to photograph fish and moving animals but then again I dont know what your shutter speed is, if it is still too slow try 800 iso as a last resort also once you get a feel of the fishes movements its easier to ready yourself to fire the shutter. Now for corals and things that arent moving too quick, use a tripod and set a higher aperture like f11-16, your shutter speed is going to be way slow but your depth of field will be greater allowing for more of the coral in the foreground and more in the background to be in focus. Very important that you have a tripod for this, finally use the self timer once you have your shot set up as you may cause movement when firing the shutter manually. Set the focus, press the shutter release and allow the camera to do its 10 sec self timer delay and fire..voila, picture should be fine. Now with the advent of Digital you can experiment with different things, trial and error has become a lot cheaper and practice makes perfect. I have been a photographer for 11 years and the learning never stops....
  #90  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:49 AM
Yinger Yinger is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by photobret
Would love to give you a lesson on Photography but unfortunately time is short when you are on call all the time as a press snapper. Anyway try this, set your iso to 400, now you dont mention what lens you are using but use Av mode, this will let your camera decide what your shutter speed will be, put the camera on a tripod as I'm kinda sure you might get some blur if you hand hold. For faster movement use a lower Aperture like 5.6 for example. Some more expensive lenses will let you go to 2.8 but they are pricey. camera will decide shutter speed, now at 400 iso you should be ok at 5.6 to photograph fish and moving animals but then again I dont know what your shutter speed is, if it is still too slow try 800 iso as a last resort also once you get a feel of the fishes movements its easier to ready yourself to fire the shutter. Now for corals and things that arent moving too quick, use a tripod and set a higher aperture like f11-16, your shutter speed is going to be way slow but your depth of field will be greater allowing for more of the coral in the foreground and more in the background to be in focus. Very important that you have a tripod for this, finally use the self timer once you have your shot set up as you may cause movement when firing the shutter manually. Set the focus, press the shutter release and allow the camera to do its 10 sec self timer delay and fire..voila, picture should be fine. Now with the advent of Digital you can experiment with different things, trial and error has become a lot cheaper and practice makes perfect. I have been a photographer for 11 years and the learning never stops....

great advice! I'll have to look into that tomorrow. the tripod definitely helps. Do you think i'll be able to get a shot like fmellish did on that ricordia with the lense i have?
  #91  
Old 12/04/2007, 02:03 AM
glaudds glaudds is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yinger
Do you think i'll be able to get a shot like fmellish did on that ricordia with the lense i have?
One way to do it is to take a sharp picture at maximum resolution and then crop it...



Cropped...

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  #92  
Old 12/04/2007, 02:59 AM
photobret photobret is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yinger
great advice! I'll have to look into that tomorrow. the tripod definitely helps. Do you think i'll be able to get a shot like fmellish did on that ricordia with the lense i have?

Yes the Canon 100mm Macro is one of the best Macro lenses they make, it has a 1:1 ratio which is awesome for fine detail. It will depend on where your coral is placed in your tank and how you close you can actually get. A Macro lens allows you to get really close, dont use the Autofocus, get as close as possible with the lens and use manual focus using the cameras beeping to let you know when your subject is in focus (or your eye) the closer the better, if you want to get super close you can buy extension rings which will give you SUPER fine detail, they fit your camera between the body and the lens. Keep trying with your 100mm as it is for now. When I mentioned before about your shots being great and having improved, you can get alot closer than that, but it is affected by placement of corals in your tank. Get as close as possible, fill as much of the frame as you can, shoot with a wide aperture ie F16 + and then if you want to you can still crop into the image a bit, not to much or your pic will lose quality. Try a lower iso , you have a tripod after all. Lower ISO = Less Noise which = better picture especially if you crop. Trial and error and practice makes perfect.
  #93  
Old 12/04/2007, 03:01 AM
photobret photobret is offline
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Canon 40D is amazing, 10mp and shoots like its bigger brother the MKIII. Blows the 30D out of the water. I highly recommend it!
  #94  
Old 12/04/2007, 04:26 AM
Scissorhand Scissorhand is offline
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photobret, may we see a few of your pictures of corals that you have taken?
  #95  
Old 12/04/2007, 10:17 AM
cthetoy cthetoy is offline
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Gho (Greg) wrote up some excellent lessons on photographing fish and corals.

Photographing Corals:
http://www.ximinasphotography.com/le...phing%20Corals

Photographing fish:
http://www.ximinasphotography.com/le...raphing%20Fish
  #96  
Old 12/04/2007, 11:44 AM
photobret photobret is offline
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Sure no worries, I'll have to borrow a mates macro as I packed that in long ago. My experience with Macro comes from photographing insects and Spiders on film many years ago, HAHA! Same principles but its something I've been meaning to get back into, (photographing fish instead not bugs).
  #97  
Old 12/04/2007, 12:29 PM
FishyBiz FishyBiz is offline
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Thanks for all the info guys/gals.

I only have the stock 18-55mm lens for right now.
  #98  
Old 12/04/2007, 12:42 PM
roxy25 roxy25 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by FishyBiz
Thanks for all the info guys/gals.

I only have the stock 18-55mm lens for right now.
thats still pretty good
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  #99  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:01 PM
photobret photobret is offline
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Very Nice, with a macro you could do even more. The coral is in a great place for awesome photos. The 18-55mm shines this time around.
  #100  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:18 PM
roxy25 roxy25 is offline
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http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/
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