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  #51  
Old 12/27/2006, 11:49 AM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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Marc, the last step of the acrylic polishing process is a very fine polish liquid. There should have been some included in the kit. And there is usually an anti-static cream to apply by hand last.

For that small area I would use a dremel polishing pad or a small random orbit sander. I usually use a grinder dialed down but that would be too big for the space you have.
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  #52  
Old 12/27/2006, 01:34 PM
Micki Micki is offline
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Sweet!
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  #53  
Old 12/27/2006, 03:44 PM
purebullet417 purebullet417 is offline
They Found Nemo
 
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wow looks good now get it filled
  #54  
Old 12/27/2006, 04:09 PM
melev melev is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cuby2k
But a serious question about the scratch removal kit; how do you apply the grit? Is it a pour on liquid that you run a power buffer on to remove the scratch or is it actually on the paper? Is the buffer power or is it via elbow? I have an industrial sized scratch in my sump that I'd like to get out but have put it off because I didn't know how big of a job it was going to be.
The kit came with small 3.5" x 2" sheets of sandpaper, and a small foam sanding block. The directions said to sand one direction, then with the next sheet to sand in the opposite direction (going across the grain perpendicularly creating a criss cross pattern).

Jonathan, it didn't have the polish you mentioned, but it did have the anti-static paste that I felt was unnecessary.
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  #55  
Old 12/27/2006, 04:41 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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If you want it to look good, check into Micro-Surface and check out the micro-gloss and various buffing methods. This is what is used on aircraft windshields. A quick call to them and they will help you with application tips. This company's products would be very useful for your sump projects too.
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  #56  
Old 12/27/2006, 04:53 PM
Alaska_Phil Alaska_Phil is offline
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Hi all. I found this thread last weekend and have been trying to get caught up! I'm up to page 30 now. I'm learning a LOT! And have all sorts of do-it-yourself projects in mind now. I think first up will be a 15 gal sump for my 20 gal reef. (though I'm thinking of converting my 65 gal tank to salt and using the 20 gal for a sump too) If that works out I'll have to make one for the 50 gal in the lobby here at work too.

This is a great thread, and Mark, your home page is a wealth of great info and inspiration too. Just wanted to say thanks all.

Phil
  #57  
Old 12/27/2006, 05:44 PM
melev melev is offline
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Hi Phil, and welcome aboard. You only have 315 more pages to go.
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  #58  
Old 12/27/2006, 05:52 PM
Alaska_Phil Alaska_Phil is offline
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So next time I have insomnia I'll have a choice between going down to the shop and building and overflow box, or reading more of this thread.

Phil
  #59  
Old 12/27/2006, 05:57 PM
Enderrea Enderrea is offline
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Lots of Coffee and smokes and you can do it !
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  #60  
Old 12/27/2006, 06:13 PM
melev melev is offline
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I'm awake again. Look what happened:



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  #61  
Old 12/27/2006, 06:29 PM
bklynmet bklynmet is offline
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It's so shiny! When's the water test for leaks?
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Removing skimmate, scraping algae, now changing a new set of baby diapers... will the crap ever end?
  #62  
Old 12/27/2006, 06:33 PM
melev melev is offline
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Leaks?!
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  #63  
Old 12/27/2006, 07:03 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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careful with that torch Marc!
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  #64  
Old 12/27/2006, 07:51 PM
Lordhelmet Lordhelmet is offline
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i want one. time to buy some acrylic
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  #65  
Old 12/27/2006, 09:29 PM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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NICE!! how did the seams come out?

make me one for a clam tank!!

Lunchbucket
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  #66  
Old 12/27/2006, 09:37 PM
melev melev is offline
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The front seam is the ugliest unfortunately. The guy from Bermuda told me after the glue has cured for a week that I can flame polish the ends of my seams. I'm tempted to try it, since this is a display tank. Using some math and some guesstimates, I think it'll hold 20g.

I still have to figure out the overflow and return, and where to put them. I don't want them eating up a lot of space.

I went to some stores this evening looking for the perfect stand for the tank, and found nothing that fit, looked good and was reasonably priced.
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  #67  
Old 12/27/2006, 09:54 PM
purebullet417 purebullet417 is offline
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my oceanic tech series stand for my 45 cube is 24x18 if your looking for black modern looking stuff youve seen the pics in my thread and
why dont you make an external overflow dremmel out the top back of the tank about a half inch and put a box on the back of the tank to catch the water it takes up no room in the tank and looks clean
  #68  
Old 12/27/2006, 09:59 PM
melev melev is offline
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That is a good idea, but I don't really have the room necessarily. I'll give it some thought though, as it might help me hide some stuff. I was trying to avoid the tank coming out more and more toward the front door as that room isn't exactly spacious.

Picture toward the front door (it would go in the corner just to the right):


Picture from the front door facing where the tank will go, in the corner on the left:
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  #69  
Old 12/27/2006, 10:00 PM
bklynmet bklynmet is offline
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Purebullet - Not a bad idea if the back is not exposed. Though a router will give a cleaner edge than a Dremel.
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Removing skimmate, scraping algae, now changing a new set of baby diapers... will the crap ever end?
  #70  
Old 12/27/2006, 10:09 PM
Micki Micki is offline
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Marc, for some reason, I thought you were building it into the wall. It wouldn't need a stand or stick out at all that way.
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  #71  
Old 12/27/2006, 10:10 PM
melev melev is offline
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No more wall projects. This will be a nice stand alone tank, although plumbed into the main system.

Currently the foundation of my house is shifting and the roof is literally lifting off the interior walls. I'm going to have to see about getting someone out here to fix it, and it won't be cheap.
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  #72  
Old 12/27/2006, 10:11 PM
Micki Micki is offline
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Ouch... You're right, not a cheap project.
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  #73  
Old 12/27/2006, 11:30 PM
purebullet417 purebullet417 is offline
They Found Nemo
 
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back to the tank there are no stands that are 16 inchs from what i no unless you build your own and wile your at it u could finish the woodwork on the 280 =)... and i think if you route the back for an external overflow the tank would look the best
  #74  
Old 12/27/2006, 11:44 PM
bklynmet bklynmet is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Currently the foundation of my house is shifting and the roof is literally lifting off the interior walls. I'm going to have to see about getting someone out here to fix it, and it won't be cheap.
Do you mean the center of the house is sinking? It's another way of looking at it and from a structural engineer's point of view (that's me) it sounds like settlement on the interior of the house - if the interior partition walls are separating from the roof truss/rafters.

Where is you tank with relation to the exterior walls? You can PM me if you want my $0.02 about it or if you need a sounding board to whatever a contractor may tell you.

It could be a simple thing.
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Removing skimmate, scraping algae, now changing a new set of baby diapers... will the crap ever end?
  #75  
Old 12/28/2006, 01:05 AM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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will it be BB or SB? Maybe a spray bar along the back bottom could provide your return flow?
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