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#26
07/11/2005, 11:49 AM
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Seems pretty expensive to me too.
But then the only one I've seen used two five gallon buckets and some pvc pipe/fittings to filter a 3,200 gallon aquarium  .
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Less technology , more biology . |
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#27
07/11/2005, 11:56 AM
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I know the phosban reactors are on the small side, but you could run them in series i guess if you need more volume. Without seeing one 1st hand, i am not sure why my idea wouldnt work. I guess i need to hear from someone who has one.
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Ben |
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#29
07/11/2005, 12:17 PM
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I'd like to see the DIY one also.... Any design shots or pic's??
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#30
07/11/2005, 12:47 PM
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I would like to see what Randy has to say about these
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Mass spectrometry... about the only thing in the world more expensive than reefkeeping. |
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#31
07/11/2005, 07:53 PM
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__________________
Less technology , more biology . |
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#33
07/12/2005, 01:56 AM
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Just got mine in today from MarineDepot.com (the smaller model). I've already set it up and got it running without any problems. I'll take measurements on my nitrate levels tomorrow and regularly throughout the next few weeks to see how well this works.
I'm open to suggestions from anyone else who is running one. For instance, I'm not sure how best to connect it to my sump in terms of the intake vs. outtake. |
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#35
07/12/2005, 06:56 AM
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Seems like he was saying it's more trouble than it's worth.
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Mass spectrometry... about the only thing in the world more expensive than reefkeeping. |
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#36
07/12/2005, 12:29 PM
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ReefAddict1.
The best way to run it is to have the inlet in the main tank,that way it has a gravity feed, if you dont want it in the main tank you will probably need a peristaltic pump to get enough pressure. kreef. |
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#37
07/15/2005, 03:06 AM
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So the BioDenitrator has been running for a couple of days so far and dripping at 1 drop per second. I have noticed air accumulating at the of the reactor fro water getting soaked up by the sulfur and calcium granules, so I needed to suction out the air from the top valve. Relatively easy, but worth noting since it needs close monitoring while it breaks in. From what I understand, the chamber has to be oxygen deplete in order to work effectively.
I haven't had a chance to take a nitrate measurement yet, but do know that I've been averaging 40-50 levels as of a few weeks ago. More later. |
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#39
07/15/2005, 09:55 AM
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So why couldn't you take a canister filter and fill it with sulfer media and crushed coral. Then run the out and in tubes in a closed loop. Drill and tap for some airline tubing nipples to feed the source water and outfeed the effluent. Seems like $100 should do it?
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#42
07/15/2005, 01:56 PM
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I also meant to say. Dont expect any change in your tank nitrates, until the reactor has matured, which will take 2/3 or 4 weeks,then the flow will be zero nitrates and then your tank nitrates will start dropping.
kreef. |
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#43
07/15/2005, 03:21 PM
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I made a DYI coil denitrifier out of 15" piece of 4" PVC, 2 4" endcaps, 1/4 airline tubing, bioballs, and some elbow grease. You need a peristalic pump to drive it, but my NO3 on my FOWLR went from 100ppm to undetectable in about 3 months.
I saw no change for almost a month then one day I thought, "Wow, where's the usual garden of hair algae?" |
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#44
07/15/2005, 03:26 PM
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onthefly...could you give some more details on how you put that together? Maybe a drawing, and also, an example of a peristaltic pump. Thanks.
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Most people get results...I seem to have consequences |
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#45
07/15/2005, 04:08 PM
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Oh jeez.....you don't want me drawing a picture
Basically you take a section of 4" PVC and glue an endcap on the top. Through that you glue 2x 1.5" pieces of 1/4" rigid airline tubing (these are your inlet and outlet). Next you invert the tube and shove some 1/4" silicon airline onto the inlet and "coil" it around the inside wall of the 4" PVC. As you coil, add bioballs (in my case I use some Fluval ceramic bits I had lying around) to keep the coils from accidently collapsing in. When you reach the top of tube (which is actually the bottom since you're working from the bottom), cut the airline and leave it open. Cap the bottom of the unit. I used the removable, rubber kind you can get at HD (just incase I wanted to go in and redo the set up. Next set up a peristalic pump (the same kind people use for kalk drips, etc) and set up a flow rate of about 15-20 drop/min. and crack a beer and wait for the NO3 to disappear. Here's a pic of one that aquateco sells: http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/...17229/cid/1386 you get the idea. |
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#46
07/15/2005, 05:13 PM
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It does appear that the Korallin is a very simple DIY model to replicate. Good thing the Korallin can double as a good quality calcium reactor in the future.
BTW--Boy, does that sulfur stink... don't get anything, so much as dust on your hands. It takes forever to wash the scent off. :-) |
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#47
07/15/2005, 06:17 PM
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I don't think it is worth the cost. If you aren't overstocked and use LR and a good skimmer, then nitrates shouldn't be a problem to begin with... JMO
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#49
07/16/2005, 12:46 AM
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Well... some can afford it.
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#50
07/16/2005, 12:50 AM
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kreef -- Yes, I ran the reactor overnight with the output valve fully open, hoping to get a good bacteria 'culture' circulated inside. Then tuned it down to 1 drop per second. It's humming along now and hasn't accumulated any air at the top, although I can still see tiny air bubbles still trapped within the sponge separator and some of the granules.
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