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#26
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Yup you got it.
You will want to make the height of the #3 drain adjustable and then test it out by closing the other valves. OR you could just leave it open topped and well above your desired water level but below the critical overflow level. It would then be able to pass larger objects and not clog in the event of a problem. I would put valves on all 3 standpipes for the sake of versatility. |
#27
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So this will still work with the style of overflow that i had linked to? I guess it does not matter they all do the same thing is some sort of fashion i suppose..
does it matter where in line i place the ball valve?? the tank will be up against a wall and i don't think i will have easy access to the valves if they were right under the bulkheads like in the picture that you posted...
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------- Chris |
#28
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It should not make much of a difference.
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#29
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Thanks for the information; guess it is back to the drawing board for me; lol
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------- Chris |
#30
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The benefits are zero noise, failsafe operation and almost no air introduced into the sump.
One day I will get around to documenting the entire setup. |
#31
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Well I got some work done over the weekend finally, some updates on my stand. Still need to do some sanding and finish prep work for staining. I'm waiting on my fixture to arrive so I can start on the canopy. Well anyways here is what it looks like....[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] |
#32
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Plumbing questions:
I plan on placing 3 unions coming out of the bottom of my overflow box and then using flex pvc from the 2 drains down to my sump. Before entering the sump i was thinking of installing another set of unions and ball valves. does anyone see a problem with doing it this way?
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------- Chris |
#33
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Well last night i got a chance to unpack the new fixture; guess it is time to start on the canopy[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] |
#34
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cool fixture!
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switched to my 90 =) |
#35
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looking for some suggestions on heaters for this setup; I'm thinking that 2 250w would do the trick?
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------- Chris |
#36
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^^BUMP^^
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------- Chris |
#37
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That tank is pretty, but what will you do for a background to not see the overflow?
I like your stand, it is very nice looking. Seems like you could fit a longer sump in there compared to the PDF you sent me. For heaters, you want 3w per gallon. 100g tank, 300w of heat. I recommend two 150w heaters that way neither has the ability to cook your tank if it sticks in the ON position one day. That light pendant looks great.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#38
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Hi there Marc;
Thanks for the complements, as for the background I plan to spray the back of the tank & overflow with black krylon fusion paint to hide the outer box and give a nice dark background for the corals to "pop" against, the only small drawback is the edge of the outer box where it meets the back of the tank wall, cannot be painted and will be visible from the front of the tank, but I figure that in time the coraline algae will take care of that for me or I will just glue some zoo's to the back wall like I have done in my current tank and let them do the hiding for me. I will try and get an updated picture at lunch to show the area that I have to work with for the sump we are discussing. The fixture is great the Iwasaki bulbs are a nice bright white and I used a combination of T5's for supplement lighting; The T5's are giesemann and I went with (1) Aqua Blue + & (1) pure actinic. |
#39
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To add to what Melev said... Don't forget to buy a RANCO or other relaible temperature controller!
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#40
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Hey nice looking tank. I saw that you are in Santa Cruz as am i. I would love to see what you have done sometime in person. I have a 100gal that i have been playing with for about 3-4 months, and i am playing with ideas on rock. I read about how to make some rock here and was going to give it a try. Let me know if you are intrested. We might be able to make a large batch or something.
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#41
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Quote:
I have been thinking about using 2 of these: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...ct~VA1157.html |
#42
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Your setup looks nice.
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#43
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Quote:
__________________
Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#44
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Melev; I was able to snap a couple of quick shots at lunchtime to show you the area in the stand that I have to work with; The 5g bucket I plan to use for top off purposes for dosing limewater to the tank.
Unfortunately my ro/di setup is in my garage which is detached from my house; so I thought the best approach would be to have a removable reservoir that I can just switch out when needed to refill or clean. In the picture the cardboard that is laying in the stand is 30" long x 14" wide; on the other side of the bucket is where I have the 3rd door to the stand and plan on placing my ballast box,test kits,food, etc.[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] |
#45
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Quote:
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#46
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Quote:
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#47
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Quote:
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#48
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Nice looking set up, Aint it great to have all of the wealth of know how that is available on RC?
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I found a way to make a small fortune running a reef tank. Start with a large fortune. Unofficial President of the SEACLONE haters club |
#49
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Thanks;
Sure is, now how does that comment go Oh yeah "priceless" nice sig by the way
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------- Chris |
#50
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I like the roll-out top off reservoir. Nice!
Could you stick your first name in your signature line for people like me with horrible memory issues?
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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