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#26
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2. Run some tubing from the outside of the house to feed your skimmer - CO2 issues again.
- please explain? what do you mean here? sounds like one i know i havent heard of yet. The idea is: if you have a high CO2 level in the basement (most new homes will) you want to use air with "nomal" levels in your skimmer - hence the need to get the air from outside. A couple of additional thoughts: 1. You ought to plan on a refrigerator in the fish room, (if you do not have one downstairs) as it is more convenient to store the frozen fish food, DTs, garlic, etc, and your significant other will not accidentally throw them out. 2. I would suggest putting your refugium higher than your tank: you pump the water up to it and let gravity feed it back to the tank. That way your little critters do not go through a whirling impeller to get to the tank. |
#27
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That's a really interesting idea about the airline? So youre saying that better air will result in more efficient skimming??? really, this one's brand new to me. I actually can do that since there's a small basement window and also ducts to the outside.
1. already have a fridge and a freezer planned to be down there. have both now in the basement and i know the value. 2. this is also a great idea. i've seen people with there fuge's high and never understood why. i have lots of pods in my fuge now and they say they can make it back in via the impeller. i'll have to see if /how to change my design. thanks
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Bryan |
#28
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Im in the process of adding an overflow to my 55 and i read something about a hole drilled into your return line. Now ive been thinking that over and cant get it trough my head where you would have one and why you would need one?
any info will be greeat i dont want to do anything that will cause a nice flood on the floor. Chris. |
#29
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Lord Helmet, "finally we meet for the first time, for the last time."
Sorry, had to do that. Actually, I do this today and its highly recommended. BAscially, the return line (water pumping from sump into tank) can create a siphon if you lose power or pump dies. When that happens your water in the tank will flow back into your sump...until the siphon breaks (I'm sure you knew that already). Well, drilling a hole in the return line helps to break the siphon alot sooner so that you have less flow back into the aquarium. Many people say to drill several tiny 1/16" holes in your return line, about an inch below your water level. You have to try one or two and then basically test the thing to see what works in your case. Let me know if that made sense!
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Bryan |
#30
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Re: 220 Inwall - Plan
just a few comments:
idon't believe stryofoam is needed for glass, only acrylic. for glass a very flat high quality plywood should suffice run a ups for a small recirculation pump or air pump. just something to keep fish alive during power outage. plug as little as possible in to the ups to extend runtime. consider adding a generator. home depot has cool timers. CLICK HERE they fit into a standard light switch faceplate. they have a plastic cover over the controls that when pressed serves as a manual on/off switch. since you building you own stand, build it a little taller to put the aquarium closer to eye level & prevent viewers from having to bend over to look in. don't place it so high you need a step ladder to service it. when calculating the wall thickness, remember to figure in the drywall. if the aquarium is flush with the drywall, adding trim will provide for a nice clean look. |
#31
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Higher refugium
Having the refugium higher is important for creatures other than pods: there are mysis shrimps, mini stars, etc that would never make it through the impeller safely.
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#32
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shane- thanks fro the feedback....
idon't believe stryofoam is needed for glass, only acrylic. for glass a very flat high quality plywood should suffice I've read so much on this topic so it could go on forver. I've seen people do it with glass, in fact, more for glass since it can break easier? i thought it had to do with small, imperfections in the plywood which might result in a slightly unlevel surface. run a ups for a small recirculation pump or air pump. just something to keep fish alive during power outage. plug as little as possible in to the ups to extend runtime. consider adding a generator. whats a "ups". sorry, i'm really limited with my electrical skills. someday would like a generator but not with this plan, right now. home depot has cool timers. CLICK HERE they fit into a standard light switch faceplate. they have a plastic cover over the controls that when pressed serves as a manual on/off switch. - the link here didnt work? i've gotten my timers in the past from HD but havent seen anything besides the standard ones. since you building you own stand, build it a little taller to put the aquarium closer to eye level & prevent viewers from having to bend over to look in. don't place it so high you need a step ladder to service it. - yes, trying to determine that. i'm actually going to make a PVC model of the tank so I can get used to how big its actually going to be! it will be helpful with the move into my basement, aquascaping, and also how to position it. i'm thinking somewhere between 42" and 45" off the ground. its 30" high. i'm thinking it its 42" off the ground that means I have to get up to at least 6' to reach in. i'm 6'1" and would need somethng to step on. when calculating the wall thickness, remember to figure in the drywall. if the aquarium is flush with the drywall, adding trim will provide for a nice clean look. - this is an area open fro debate. i actually want it to look exactly flush with the wall for a clean, straight look. i dont want the "picture frame" look like alot of tanks have. but i'm not sure how i'll accomplish the flat look with the trim on my glass tank and the drywall. very confusing. havent seen any pics on it yet either.... JC... Having the refugium higher is important for creatures other than pods: there are mysis shrimps, mini stars, etc that would never make it through the impeller safely. - good point. i'm already workong in a modified design to put the fuge up top. stay tuned! thx BH |
#33
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bheron. thanks for the info. After giving it some more thought i realized what you are talking about makes perfect sense. thanks for helping me head off a potential disaster.
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#34
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Quote:
basically a battery usually used for computers Quote:
http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/13...s/337345_3.jpg Digital 7-day programmable automatic, for loads up to 15 amp 6 programs with up to 42 on/off settings for daily, weekend and weekly combinations. Random setting feature available to avoid predictable timer controlled look. Internet/Catalog # 337345 Store SKU# 451207 Quote:
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#35
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Shane,
ups = uninterruptible power supply basically a battery usually used for computers - alright, now youv'e got me intruiged. I like this idea. Where can I learn more about them? I'm somewhat of a techy. home depot has cool timers. try this link: http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/1...us/337345_3.jpg Digital 7-day programmable automatic, for loads up to 15 amp 6 programs with up to 42 on/off settings for daily, weekend and weekly combinations. Random setting feature available to avoid predictable timer controlled look. Internet/Catalog # 337345 Store SKU# 451207 -thx. i'll have to look these up whenI go next time and check the prices. if you want the flush look, you can line up the aquarium edge with the drywall, then tape off the aquarium and use drywall mud to fill any small gaps between the aquarium & drywall. - THAT sounds like it would work. i see, so accomplish the flush look with taping. i like it. thanks. |
#36
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Revised plan - moved large fuge up above tank.
Have the smaller QT/Fuge below the tank - I dont think I can fit it anywhere above where it would be easy to observe. |
#37
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I just checked and measured - I can fit both fuges to the left of the tank, theh one just above to gravity feed.
the 10g I want to keep at eye level to observe better.
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Bryan |
#38
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I have been following along. Looks like it is going to be a great set up. In your last drawing, it looks like the fuges are not being feed with any water?
What am I missing? Keith
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If you have a college degree, you can be sure of one thing. You have a college degree! Superman owns Chuck Norris Pajamas!! |
#39
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yes. good point. I forgot to change the plan. I'll feed them by tee'ing off the return from the Mag 18. I'll feed the top fuge which will gravity feed the lower fuge.
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Bryan |
#40
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Sorry no updates. We did the move to the new house this weekend and its taken up all day from Fri 8am until now (Sat 9:30pm), but we're pretty mcuh pulled it all off! Luckily my wife is obsessed with getting this done as quickly as possible.
Well, the next step is to move my 75Gal with Fuge and Sump from the old house to the new one where I'll set it up temproarily for about 2 months while the basement and new tank is built. So, for entertainment purposes, and hopefully to share a little bit, next I'll post the move of the old tank - probably attempt this tomrrow and post pics shortly thereafter. PS -ShaneKennedy: ups = uninterruptible power supply basically a battery usually used for computers - alright, now youv'e got me intruiged. I like this idea. Where can I learn more about them? I'm somewhat of a techy. Any addt'l info on this? |
#41
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Ok, I'm plannning to move the tank tonight to the new house. I'll post pics afterwards.
In the meantime, I started a new thread on my plans for the move --- http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=589386 |
#42
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I pulled off the move. Took me 7 hours - about twice as long as I planned. The good news is that I didnt lose any livestock, except a featherduster. I tried to account for as many snails and crabs as I could.
Bas news is that I think I cracked my display (75g) that I'm planning to use as a sump in my new setup.
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Bryan |
#43
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Cmon bheron!
We're waiting!!! Give up the pix! |
#44
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You might be able to salvage the 75g, how bad is the damage?
My thoughts: 1. Drill the damn tank!! 2. Use an external pump for the return 3. 1000 on T5's?? Go grab 2-3 250-400w MH. if your low on funds, build them yourself or just get 2 since you want softies anyway. And if you ever decide to go sps or something you wont have to ditch your t5's and regret putting money into them. 4. maybe use a smaller tank for the sump/skimmer and use the 75g for a fuge. |
#45
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Hey there. Sorry. We've been so busy moving in. I'll take some pics of my current situation tomorrow and post em.
qwuintus - hey, good points. i gotta get to bed and will get back on this tomorrow! thanks BH
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Bryan |
#46
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Man, sorry for the lack of updates - actually, didnt think anyone was taggin along anymore.
Here's where I am: - I think I have the plans finalized for the new system, for the most part. Need to have my contractor come over and spec some things out based on the latest plans above. - my fish are still sitting in my 20g glass tank b/c I havent had a chance to fully test the 75 to see if its really leaking. hopefully i can do this tonight. - a new house, a birthday for my wife, and an anniversary have thrown me off for a bit. but I gotta get these fish out of the 20g. - i'm planning, if/when I get the 75g up and running, to run it barebottom and also to scrub the LR clean and rinse any lose detritus from it. is this a bad idea? might cause a mini-cycle? qwuintus, some feedback... You might be able to salvage the 75g, how bad is the damage? - not sure yet. i am hoping to salvage and maybe there is no leak at all. My thoughts: 1. Drill the damn tank!! - never done this and dont know a place to get it done. but, ok, maybe i should. 2. Use an external pump for the return - why? thought about this and really the main benefit is to save on heat output in the water? my insump Mag18 has been doing the job fine so far. and i dont need super flow since i'm going to have TUnze Streams in the tank. Have decided against a closed loop. So why else should I go external? 1000 on T5's?? Go grab 2-3 250-400w MH. if your low on funds, build them yourself or just get 2 since you want softies anyway. And if you ever decide to go sps or something you wont have to ditch your t5's and regret putting money into them. - this was my biggest decision. primarily i decided against the MH b/c of the incredible heat output compared to T5s and also the maintenance costs. I played it out over the next two years and its more than double the maintenance cost of replacing the bulbs and also the electricity. i know i lose the flexibility on what i can keep in the long run, but that was the only minus to getting the T5s. maybe use a smaller tank for the sump/skimmer and use the 75g for a fuge. - good point. i can surely do that. my main reason for using the 75g was to give me plenty of room for overflow in case of problems and also to help eliminate the microbubbles even more. i currently have a 20g sump and, even with 3 baffles, still have a good amount of microbubbles. Hoping the 75 will give me more room to diffuse. I WAS thinking of also partitioning off the 75 sump to include the fuge right in it. BUT, I'm still open to anything and everything!
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Bryan |
#47
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Ok, sorry no pics for so long. This should hold you over for a bit.
First, some pics of my current, temporary-temporary setup. I have all my livestock, for the past week+ in a 20 gallong sump b/c, as you'll see from above, I thought my 75 gall sprung a leak while moving it. Here's my temp-temp setup: You can see the sump to the left and straight ahead is the 55g tub with the test of the LR, Water, and Fuge Closeups Tank: Tub: Now, today, I've finally gotten around to testing the leak in the 75. I originally filled it up only a few inches (b/c thats where we noticed the water dripping before). Nothing happend then so the next step was to fill it up completely to see if there was any water leakage.....and NOTHING! See pics below of the fillup: My wife had lots of questions about this... Half full (or half empty. depends on how you see things) Still, no leak! Finally, full: Nothing. Its been out there for about an hour or two and not sign of water. I'm going to let it sit for awhile just ot be sure. But, I'm going with the conclusion that it was just excess water sitting in the framing along the bottom of the tank. Right?? |
#48
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Update
Sorry there's not been much to update recently. The basement contractor is starting in 11 days (T-11) so I'm still stuck in FULL PLANNING MODE.
So, all I have is more plans and ideas. It might be overkill but the planning is so much fun and I'd really like to get as much more input from everyone as I can, BEFORE I start building this monster. So, as usual, any feedback...bring it on! I'm going to post my latest detailed plans: First, a pic of the part of the basement that will be my fishroom: Now, a step by step visual of the build out process (this is uploaded to powerpoint so I can give my contractor an actual "Slideshow" when we have our pre-meeting next week). Same shot as above, in grahpics mode: Now, 2 walls will be added to make an 8x10 "Fishroom" Next: 1) Cutout in wall for tank (I'm going to add some space above the tank for access in the front) 2) 3 dedicated lines (2 15Amp, 1 20amp) for the equipment 3) Hot and cold water lines to be run for the sink 4) PVC out for the pump in the sink 5) Exhaust tube to be run for climate and humidity control Next, add: 1) Stand for tank 2) Sink 3) RODI system Add the tank: And finally, some sort of work table along with back - need to keep it narrow b/c I want as much space to work with as possible. Will probably keep my QT tank on here. Thoughts? get 'em in now before its too late |
#49
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bheron,
Excellent planning and design so far. The Powerpoint presentation is a great idea for exchange of design ideas. A few initial comments I have... If you can, I'd recommend (also) having the tank drilled and making it reef-ready. I prefer the simplicity of this design and the ease and piece of mind that comes with it. I guarantee your inhabitants wants will change over time and you will require more water movement for filtration needs. But, if you are comfortable with your current system, by all means, continue with it. I just feel that while you have the opportunity with your new tank, it would be wise to convert now. Be sure to check with the tank manufacturer as to whether the glass is tempered or not should you decide to have it drilled. Local glass shops should be capable of doing the drilling but most will no guarantee the work due to the possibility of breakage. I'd also recommend going with an external pump for circulation. The advantages include less heat transfer as well as possibly more efficient power usage. This also provides the ability to move more water if desired. Not sure if it was explained in enough depth or not yet but the need to get fresh air (oxygen) into your tank room is very important. Running a fresh air source, especially to the skimmer as previously suggested, will aid in a more stable tank PH. The skimmer is a direct injector and thus, benefits the tank most when fed with fresh air. CO2 buildup within the room will drive the PH down quite easily. In my dedicated tank room, opening the room's window can increase the tank PH substantially. In addition, if you incorporate an exhaust fan, be sure to consider where the replacement air will come from. New homes are typically much better insulated and "air tight". As to the flush front glass pane to wall interface, I wouldn't suggest using drywall mud to fill the gap. It will crack in time with natural movement of the home and as the tank settles. You may want to consider using some very exact measurements and trim out the inside area of the opening with some hardwood to give you a hard surface. Running the sheet-rock edge up to the tank is not a good idea in regards to strength as well as moisture penetration. With the wood surface next to the tank and with tight tolerances, a simple bead of silicone would fill the thin gap for a finished look. Personally, I like the picture frame look, though. Looking forward to seeing your progress. You've got a great start going already. Joseph |
#50
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Trust me, Weatherson knows what he's talking about! If you havent seen his tank thread, you should!
I've personally stolen a LOT of his ideas, the most recent of which is the way he does closed loop. I'm pulling water from each side and then the returns add water into the opposite sides. Rather ingenious way to get tank water mixed well. Thanks Weatherson! I'll be stealing even more of your ideas soon! |
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