Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads - Page 19

LazyD · #**451** 06/30/2006, 05:13 PM

I talked to a MarineDepot Customer Care Rep yesterday and im looking for a more definate answer to my question..

So, im planning on going with 1 1/2" Bulkheads, which require a 2 5/8 hole which converts to 66.67500, however, the closest bit that Lau has is a 70mm which comes out to be a sliver more then 2 3/4", now, my question is, will that hole be too big? All the Marinedepot rep could tell me is tha tI want as much of the flange on glass as possible but I didnt get a real yes or no out of him, any opinions guys and girls?

The Marinedepot rep could only reccomend that I use a smaller bit and use a dremel to ream the hole out....Something about a dremel on glass like that gives me the willies..

GoldStripe · #**452** 07/01/2006, 08:27 AM

LazyD, I just drilled 4 holes for 1.5" bulkheads with a bit from Lau. The bit size is 60mm which translates to roughly 2 3/8". I bought these bulkheads which call for the hole to be 2 3/8". After they were drilled the bulkheads fit perfect and no leaks. HTH

JustOneMoreTank · #**453** 07/01/2006, 09:34 AM

I like the looks of the BHs that GoldStripe linked to. Very Heavy duty! If you click on the link titled "Click here for more pics" on the Aquatic Eco page look at measurement letter "D" and it does say 2 3/8 inch.

JustOneMoreTank · #**454** 07/01/2006, 09:36 AM

Ohh and by the way GoldStripe we really need to do something with that Avatar of yours! Ugh!
Go Gators!

GoldStripe · #**455** 07/01/2006, 09:40 AM

Man, I thought I could get away from gators on here!! There everywhere, lol. By the way, Weims are my absolute favorite dog in the world!!

JustOneMoreTank · #**456** 07/01/2006, 09:56 PM

Can't wait for Gator football season! He is a good dog. Very obedient and wants to please you. Excellent retrieving and working dog. Pretty good on point as well.
I almost got a Vizsla instead of my little Weimy but he was ready to take home and the Vizslas were not old enough to be given away at the time. Very glad I got him.

swedish steel · #**457** 07/02/2006, 08:31 AM

ybenormal - there are different shaped ones that are green and for ceramic, stone, glass and other hard or non-ferrous materials. The Dremel part number is 84922 and is conical in shape. If you do not have many holes, one should be enough. I had to use two.

GoldStripe · #**458** 07/02/2006, 09:07 AM

JustOneMoreTank, are you a season ticket holder? This will be my 8th or 9th year making the drives over to Tally every weekend for games.

Sorry to hijack the thread by the way!

BigSkyBart · #**459** 07/02/2006, 06:53 PM

Well my fiasco is over. nearly...
I did NOT do the greatest job on my overflow box. (sleep deprived and a little freaked out at the time)
I raised water level to 3/4 up the box, and in 45 minutes the level in the box, was 1/4" lower than tank level. I never went over the top with water.
I hope that that is a small enough weep that I don't have to redo it. This is a FW tank, with a 15 for a sump. Filter floss, bio media, heater & return pump.
Thoughts? Thanks!

Quote:

Originally posted by BigSkyBart
I had to do an "EMERGENCY" drill job late last night.
75 in livingroom sprung a leak. 75 WAS my cichlid show tank, and was going to be my reef. The show cichlid tank was switching to a 90 in my office. 90 needed to be drilled for overflow to a sump.
No huge rush in my mind, I'm waiting my diy rocks to cure before startup.
Found the leak about midnight, dropped water level about 60 %, removed some rocks, off to the garage to drill the 90 and silicone the internal overflow box in place.
Build the stand for the office, straight 2X framing, entire stand is hidden behind credenza.
move substrate, fish canister filter and some water. Brought level to 3-4 inches from bottom of fresh silicone.
In bed by 3:30
I am so glad I had the drill bit, the glass and the plan ready, if I stocked that tank undrilled, it never would have been done.
Tomorrow I'll worry about the 75 and raise the water to the overflow inthe 90.

Triggerfish · #**460** 07/03/2006, 02:08 PM

i picked up the 1 1/2 bulkhead today. looks like it is going to be real real close with this freakin 60mm bit.
i could just drill out a hole with the bit on some cardboard right? if it fits could be good to go perhaps.

Triggerfish · #**461** 07/03/2006, 10:10 PM

well..i tried a sample hole on a 10g.. took about 2m chipped a bit on the inside..but the hole was a perfect size..fit in no problem..

how fast should the drill be going..i was holding back a bit on the trigger. maybe that's why it chipped a bit on the inside? or maybe too much pressure?
no cracks though..bit was cutting pretty nicely right through.

JustOneMoreTank · #**462** 07/03/2006, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GoldStripe
JustOneMoreTank, are you a season ticket holder? This will be my 8th or 9th year making the drives over to Tally every weekend for games.

Sorry to hijack the thread by the way!

No. I am not a season ticket holder anymore. I do get back for some games however.
Don't worry you are not hijaking the thread... you are helping others with questions on drilling. I have seen/read.

Ok... back to our regularly scheduled program.

swedish steel · #**463** 07/04/2006, 12:46 AM

triggerfish - very little pressure letting the hole saw and drill cut evenly through the other side to reduce chipping. I would hold the drill with both hands to ensure no binding as the hole saw cuts through.

GoldStripe · #**464** 07/04/2006, 07:39 AM

On a 10 gallon tank it's nearly impossible to get the hole perfect with such thin glass. You will probably have much better luck on thicker so go for it!!

tptp279 · #**465** 07/04/2006, 12:42 PM

does anyone know if the back of jebo tanks are tempered, i tried calling them but no one picked up... thanks in advance

BigSkyBart · #**466** 07/04/2006, 01:10 PM

I agree with swedishsteel, light pressure and moderate speed.
What I've done that has virtually eliminated chipping on the back, is to set (wedge in place pretty darn snug) a piece of 2" thick styrofoam and drill into that. IME that has worked much better than duct taping the back side.

Triggerfish · #**467** 07/05/2006, 08:27 AM

drilled the 55g without an issue.. the Lau bit worked great.
practically no chipping on inside.
thx for all the info.

mbunaman · #**468** 07/07/2006, 12:59 PM

Also how many holes can the bits from LAU drill before they dull?

pactrop · #**469** 07/07/2006, 01:05 PM

I have done 4 so far. Havent noticed any difference from the first to the 4th.

LegoZ81 · #**470** 07/07/2006, 03:11 PM

It depends on the thickness of the glass, I was able to get 3 comfortably out of my LAU bit on my 125g. On the fourth it was no longer cutting well.
I do HIGHLY recommend LAU*** though. Fast (1wk) to the midwest from hong kong is amazing for the shipping that is charged.

mnmnm1951 · #**471** 07/14/2006, 05:57 PM

Well, here's the mockup of my OM 8-way. Nothing is glued up yet.

I drilled ten holes with Diamond Hole Saws from Lau on eBay. Two holes feed the Dart pump and 8 are for the OM 8-way returns.

I had to place the Dart pump toward the edge because that is the only place I will be able to access it for maintenance when the tank is put in place. I struggled with plumbing the OM directly above it but everything was just too tight so I put a little bend in the pipe to get it away from the edge of the tank.

With the Pump and OM connected I did some tests with 45 degree and 90 degree plumbing elbows and really did not notice a significant reduction in output so I am not overly concerned with any 90 degree bends although there are only a few in this mockup.

Comments?

GoldStripe · #**472** 07/14/2006, 06:44 PM

Good Lord!! I'm dizzy!! Let us know when you wet test it. Are you concerned about not having anything blow from the front of the tank? Although I'm sure your sump returns will.

DHyslop · #**473** 07/14/2006, 09:06 PM

Have you considered using flexible PVC on some of those lines? I've had trouble in the past with bulkheads leaking because there's a little bit of torque on them from my pipe lengths being less-than-perfect (since the pipe goes further into the fitting with cement than when it is dry). The natural curve of the flex might also eliminate a few elbows.

Just an idea, it looks great!

Dan

dtaranath · #**474** 07/14/2006, 09:14 PM

good lord almighty. and i thought my tank was ridiculous (well, actually, it is). I'm thinking that would be a funny thread to see -- "craziest plumbing setups".

I agree with Dan. Flex pipes really help out for crazy plumbing like that.

mnmnm1951 · #**475** 07/14/2006, 09:18 PM

So a combination of Flexible and solid works well?

I have my OM unit above the water line and I was thinking I should rig some sort of support for it rather than depend on the Solid Pipe to povide all the support. Good point on bulkheads leaking cause of the torque.

I also have the two returns coming up through the bottom of the tank so I can use flexible nozzles on any of these I want.