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#376
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iceman, If you cure your rock right (in RO/DI), you should'nt have to worry about phosphate. If you make them right, you should'nt have them crack on you. I can stand on mine and I weight 170. I can DIY a stand way stronger and a bit cheaper than I could buy one. So, should I get out the hobby for saveing a buck? People have been DIYing LR for years my friend. Yes, you should buy the right stuff first or you will end up upgrading. That just means you need to know what your goal is. It's the same with DIY. You need to DIY the right stuff for the over all goal of your tank or you'll need to make something over or bigger.
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#377
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Pito,
very well put
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as scary as it may be, bart and i are very similar in our opinions of this topic ~jpfelix HEY! I lost it first ~CRP There is no "Brain" in "Brian." ~Beerguy |
#378
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Very good thread, gave me some nice ideas for my diy rock this time around for the new tank. Thanks to all.
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Check out my 125 tank build thread! Just click on the red house above^ |
#379
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Quote:
With DIY rock you get exact shapes you want, save LOTS of $$$(100lbs at 3-5 bucks a pound is a lot of $$ to most ppl, maybe not you), and help by not taking it out of its natural place.
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#380
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Maybe because in his sig line that he has only just recently converted to reef hobby, he underestimates all the costs that go into it. (Salt, electricity, bulbs, salt, chemicals, tank cleaners, and salt) I think I listed salt once too much, but being that water changes export my phosphates and nitrates, and etc. it's better than 7/ lb for LR especially when my DIY isn't leaching PO3 anyway.
Tank and equipment are one thing, live rock is another. It's VERY expensive to most of the world. IMO the biggest single investment. I have made this rock, and I am VERY happy with it. I am currently building a 240 gal cube, and it will have predominantly DIY rock. And I don't expect any problems with it.
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#381
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I made these pilars:
Here's how: placed 12" long 1 1/2 pvc in a bucket and filled around them with salt filled with 2:1 salt:cement mixture (a little on the wet side for easier flowing) then removed the pvc by slowly lifting and twisting. after the first one, I decided to continue to pour as I removed to make up for the lateral flow I think they turned out quite well and was suprised that they actually stand up on their own. Now to let them soak |
#382
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are you going to attach stuff to the sides or how are you planning to use these?
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#383
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I originally made them to go in the corners next to the overflows but I'm not sure how exactly they'll work out.
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#384
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I added three cups crushed oyster shells, three cups cement and one cup water...And the rocks aren't staying together
Now I bought a small bag of ready mix cement...It has rocks in it already is this going to be ok? I don't know if this is going to be strong enough... I bought white cement that you use to cover outside block walls and it has alot of fiberglass fibers in it so I decided to not use it...The stuff was $17 a bag.... Can anyone help? My mix dosn't look as grey as everyone's either...I am about to give up on this...I have spent $40 already...
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#385
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you could make some sort of sunken bridge with those pillars if you had the time, I think they look cool
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#386
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if its just falling apart you might have it to dry. Add more water untill it starts to clump up when you squeeze it.
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#387
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#388
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Is there really any truth to the idea that curing the rock in RO water is better than tap water with regards to algae growth? I know a lot of people cure their rock in tap water. RO/DI water use during this process just seems ridiculous to me because you are actually using a heck of a lot more water than if you used tap water.
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#389
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It's all going to grow algae. Some think that RO water will not add any other elements to the mix, but I think the impact is going to be about the same either way - your going to grow algae; unless you can wait a year or two for the readily used nutrients to be leeched away and diligently change water.
I really like the pillar thing, CMT. If you want to go for the more natural look, you can now add more cement to the structure. If you use a box, and lay in a bed of salt, you can easily turn those from perfect cylinders to blobby/lumpy more natural forms. Good job though!
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#390
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Guys did u use the Base-Coat Stucco or Finish Coat Stucco ?
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#391
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so, im ready to do a second batch, from what i've read, i still can't get the general recipe for the rocks, can anyone inform me please?
my first batch was made about a year ago, gonna be needing some more rock soon. the recipe i used was 1 part portland cement to 4 parts crushed oyster shells. can i use that or no? |
#392
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What are you all doing with the wast water? Can it be used to wash clothes or something?
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#393
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And who started this idea that the DIY rocks are going to leach nutrients or phosphate!!!?! I'm soaking them in RO/DI (The DI is the important part) to remove any silicate and to minimize the pH swing. What Phosphate?!?
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Whoever said fishkeeping will lower your blood pressure never had a reef aquarium... "A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought." -Lord Peter Wimsey, "Gaudy Night" |
#394
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#395
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this link is giving me so many ideas to try hehehe
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#396
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Anyone tryed Quikrete Quickwall cement? It set in 15min, can be put in water quite quick since it's EPA Potable water certified.
http://www.quikrete.com/uploadedfiles/39344956.pdf Quote:
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2 ocelaris 1-1.5", 1 bandaii cardinal, 1 yellow watchman goby 1 pep. shrimp, 10 nas, 1 astrea , 1 cerrith snails Some softys PH 8.1, Alk 11, NH3/4, NO2, NO3 0, Temp 77-79F, SG 1.025 Last edited by Icefire; 01/18/2007 at 02:04 AM. |
#397
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#398
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Icefire, that is what I used...I have a whole stiniking bag of it that I can't use now....It has little pieces of fiberglass in it. Each one is about an inch long and it make the rock look hairy....Plus there is no way that stuff will ever stay in the rock so you will find it floating around the tank I bet....Like dog hair....
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#399
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hey guys
i need to ask why my rock is splitting and turning to mush i used bsb recipe #3 this morning before the fish woke up i needed to move a rock that looks like it shifted and it practicly desintegrated in my hand i cured it for 2 months changing the fresh water out every other day |
#400
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Quote:
Number three, you also realize that there are a lot of chemicals/elements that are leeched off by cement that plant life thrives on, such as lime. Is phosphate one of those? I don't know, never said it was (though I do believe that chicken feed crushed oyster shell is cleaned by chemical process and thereby sucks up some of the phosphates in the cleaning solution - which is why I don't use CO in my mix), but phosphates are only one thing that may or may not be leeched. So, assuming our rock is still "Actively" curing, even though we have kured it, and knowing that plant life loves the very things we are trying to kure out it, which for at least a while is going to still be produced by the "fresh" cement, why on earth would you think that you aren't going to grow a bumper crop of algae? Or cop such an outraged attitude about it? There is a reason that the manufacturers of man made rock kure their rock for so long (Garf claims a year) before dumping it for seeding (another 6 months) - it gives the rocks time to form a layer that is nutrient reduced, and less likely to produce unwanted algae blooms when first introduced to the aquarium... PS - a curious streak in my prompted a quick google search. And while I can't say "Cement contains phosphates", I can say that the number of states in the US that number cement in their states trade goods/resources, also list limestone and phoshates as trade goods. I live in an area where cement and limestone are manufactured and mined - the two are always on the same acreage - if this is the case with phosphate mining, you'd almost have to assume that there are going to be some phosphates in the cement manufactured at these locales. Last edited by Insane Reefer; 01/18/2007 at 11:53 AM. |
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