Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads - Page 16

vanceny · #**376** 05/05/2006, 03:58 PM

The hole saw never gots warm to the touch but i've been using the pump method that I read somewhere in which I lift the bit out to allow water to get into the hole and then proceed to drill.

Is this even necessary? Can I just use the weight fo the drill and not pump it back and forth every 10 seconds or so?

dtaranath, how many rpm's do you think your drilling at? somwhere in the thousands or hundreds? I know my cordless has a max rpm of 900 but my corded can go up to 11,000.

Thanks.

swedish steel · #**377** 05/05/2006, 09:31 PM

I used my 12 volt cordless DeWalt at 50% or more, but probably not over 75% of total rpm of drill capability. A 70mm hole, with a new hole saw took only 20 min and 48mm 6-7 minutes on 5/8 inch glass. Thinner glass was faster. I only stopped drilling to change a battery, check depth, or check how square I was in the hole as I wanted to break out the other side as evenly as possible or rest my arms.

aroundtuit · #**378** 05/06/2006, 07:39 AM

In regards to drill speed, check out the link I posted a few pages back. Slow drill speeds are recommended along with lots of cooling (preferably a completely submerged bit). Faster speeds will wear out your bit quicker.

I drilled two 45 mm (1-3/4")holes in 1/2 glass and one test hole in 3/8 glass with my drill press running at 620 rpm. It will not go any slower or I would have drilled at around 300 rpm. I also used the dam method, a ring of plumber's's putty around the area, filled with water so the bit stayed submerged.

Quote:

Originally posted by aroundtuit
I would recommend an even slower drill speed. One of the few places I've been able to find much detail about drilling an aquarium is on Diamond Drill Bit & Tool's web site. Follow the link above, click on "How to Use Diamond Drills" and read through the whole page. They recommend 500 rpm for a 1" hole and 250 rpm for a 2" hole. I believe this web site has lots of good suggestions including drill speed, drill pressure, cooling, hole location, etc.

humboldt reefer · #**379** 05/06/2006, 02:18 PM

Cracked my sump today drilling it

Apparently its not a good idea to drill with one hand and use a spray bottle in the other. Because when the drill jerks one hand isnt enough to hold everything still. Yay!

GoldStripe · #**380** 05/06/2006, 04:34 PM

Sorry to hear about your crack. You knew better than that! How big was the sump? Can you use that as an excuse to get / make a better one?

swedish steel · #**381** 05/06/2006, 10:09 PM

I tried the one hand and spray bottle in the other, too. Did not result in a cracked tank, but quite this process when it wanted to bind due to lack of firm control. Sorry to hear about the cracked sump.

humboldt reefer · #**382** 05/07/2006, 12:13 AM

It was a 75. I got about half way through and started rocking the drill in a circular motion. It seemed to cut faster that way. Anyway that's when it grabbed and cracked it. Its allright though, it was really too tall for under the stand. I picked up a 40 gallon breeder and drilled it no problem.

BallaBooyeaH · #**383** 05/07/2006, 12:52 PM

Well I drilled 5 holes with no problems. Lau bits are great.
I had planes of glass as I smashed my tank trying to move it myself. Need an extra drill bit now to re-drill my sump return line.

I went with the spray bottle method with a piece of wood with a template over it to start the hole.

It was simple and the first time I have ever tried. I used a scrap piece of glass underneath to stop the splintering. Worked well.

Just-on-more-tank, When you are in Ireland next I will buy you a pint of beer.

Will post photo's when I can fix my USB port on my laptop.

Thanks again and if anyone is thinking of doing this - go for it as it is basic to do.

JustOneMoreTank · #**384** 05/07/2006, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BallaBooyeaH

It was simple and the first time I have ever tried. I used a scrap piece of glass underneath to stop the splintering. Worked well.

Just-on-more-tank, When you are in Ireland next I will buy you a pint of beer.

Will post photo's when I can fix my USB port on my laptop.

Thanks again and if anyone is thinking of doing this - go for it as it is basic to do.

Glad it went well and you found the infomation useful. At this rate I will have a glass of beer waiting for me whereever I go!

BallaBooyeaH · #**385** 05/09/2006, 01:21 PM

here are some shots of the finished Job.

This is for a 2" bulkhead - tough to drill took around 20 minutes - but came out fine

This is the 45mm's for the return lines for the OM 4way.

Hope this inspires others to take the plunge to drill.

Andrew

swedish steel · #**386** 05/09/2006, 01:42 PM

Looks great!

MCary · #**387** 05/09/2006, 02:34 PM

These portable drill press thingies help hold the bit in place when starting a hole:

zeblisik · #**388** 05/09/2006, 02:42 PM

here's a photo of the system ive built, thanks in large part to being able to drill my own holes. I drilled 4 holes myself and had one done by a LFS, their price, 25$.

Its really easy and beyond the drill bits you only need a variable speed drill driver. i encourage everyone to drill their own

vanceny · #**389** 05/09/2006, 05:11 PM

shouldn't the holes be at least the diameter of the hole away from the edge?

zeblisik · #**390** 05/09/2006, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vanceny
shouldn't the holes be at least the diameter of the hole away from the edge?

Why's that? I don't remember reading that, could be. But everything went well for me.

vanceny · #**391** 05/10/2006, 08:38 AM

goldstripe,

How high and deep did you make the calfo overflow? I going to buy the glass soon and I wanted some suggestions. I was thinking the height would be 1/2" below the inside trim. Also what thickness did everyone use?

zeblisik · #**392** 05/10/2006, 11:09 AM

I used 1/4" clear glass -- it was the cheapest. i dont think there are any real requirements for thickness. but then again, if you have a 300 gal tank it would be under a lot of pressure.

the height depends on how high you want the water and what you're going to use as teeth, if anything.

I have smaller tanks so I made my overflows as small as possible. the inside intake piece of the bulkhead are 90 degree elbows which cant turn the all the way around.... so I lost some flexibility in assembly.

BallaBooyeaH · #**393** 05/10/2006, 02:22 PM

Mcary,

Tou wife or girlfriend must not of been around when yopu drilled your holes - on the carpet !!!

All looks good.

zeblisik - how many tanks you got? What you doing with all of them ?? Wish my wife would let me have a room like yours for my hobby

zeblisik · #**394** 05/11/2006, 08:07 AM

BallaBooyeaH,

I have too many; im not allowed anymore.. haha.. I techincally have 10! but to be honest ones an eclipse beta bowl type thing...

the 4 in the picture above is one system intended for saltwater; they're small tanks though, totalling ~90 gal. ones a sump, another is a 'main tank' for coral and other inverts that like a lot of waterflow. the first inline tank that receives run off is for a vegtable/seahorse tank(hopefully) and the one below that is for a DSB and zooplankton fuge.

poopsko24 · #**395** 05/11/2006, 11:45 PM

I want to take off my hang on overflow box and drill the back top of my tank. I will drill for two 1 1/2" bulkheads, how far aprat from one another do I have to be on these ? And from that I woul like to make up the smallest possible glass overflow box, i will silicone it to the inside, but what size should i be if i plan on roughly 1200 gph going through ? I would like to do something like 12" L x 4" or 5" W and I'm not too sure at all if the height of it will matter ? I was thinking just enough to cover the bulkheads, is there a certain height I need to be? thanx all.

vanceny · #**396** 05/12/2006, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by poopsko24
I want to take off my hang on overflow box and drill the back top of my tank. I will drill for two 1 1/2" bulkheads, how far aprat from one another do I have to be on these ? And from that I woul like to make up the smallest possible glass overflow box, i will silicone it to the inside, but what size should i be if i plan on roughly 1200 gph going through ? I would like to do something like 12" L x 4" or 5" W and I'm not too sure at all if the height of it will matter ? I was thinking just enough to cover the bulkheads, is there a certain height I need to be? thanx all.

I read somewhere that they should be at least the diameter of the hole apart from each other as well as from all sides. Others have done it closer without any problems but why take the chance.
What size tank is this? You could also build the overflow to run from end to end. This would give you optimal surface skimming. As for the hieght, you would want the overflow to be tall enough so the water level when running is above the trim line. I'm doing this on my 90gal right now.

poopsko24 · #**397** 05/12/2006, 08:06 PM

thanx, I'll just make the height of the overflow just tall enough to house my two 1 1/2" bulkheads then correct ?

vanceny · #**398** 05/13/2006, 06:50 AM

that depends where your bulkheads are. If there are positioned low in the tank then the water will drain to the level of the overflow. The overflow should be from below the bulkhead to the trim line.

dtaranath · #**399** 05/13/2006, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vanceny
goldstripe,

How high and deep did you make the calfo overflow? I going to buy the glass soon and I wanted some suggestions. I was thinking the height would be 1/2" below the inside trim. Also what thickness did everyone use?

My Calfo is about 1/4" above the bottom edge of the trim. I think my total dimensions are 5 1/2" x 3 1/2". I'd have to double check it though.

poopsko24 · #**400** 05/13/2006, 02:51 PM

I got a eurobraced tank, so i have no trim . I also wanted to use my tunze wavebox on it, Now does that complicate things ?