Octopus Skimmer Mods - Page 11

Kurt03 · #**251** 09/10/2007, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JCTewks
just go out and bet a $40 dremel..i think i spent $40 and got the whole set.

BTW, I'll be sending your pump back the first part of next week...going to try a few more things, but currently it is pulling 40scfh at 65watts in 30" of water with a PF of .42

What tweaks have you changed from before?
I have a bit more work to do on mine before its pulling 40scfh

Interested in the current venturi your using.

192clark · #**252** 09/10/2007, 04:38 PM

MSU, that is normal. I usually open the valve up some before I shut the pump down ( maybe 1/4 turn ). After it has restarted I put the water level back where it was.

MSU Fan · #**253** 09/10/2007, 04:55 PM

ok, thanks!!

JCTewks · #**254** 09/10/2007, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by davidabrown66
I've been looking on ebay for a set, but nothing yet.

Were you ever able to attach the otp-3000 externally? Once I get a new venturi built, that'll be my next challenge. I have the plumbing already for my gen-x, but now I'm redirecting my efforts based off of your results.

It's amazing the difference in what cutting down the extra nw's, and shaving the volute can do on their own. It also sounds like you have a balanced mesh and GG that is working well in tandem with an improved venturi design. Good work Jeff, and thanks for the pics.

My current otp-3000 is working OK, but the SCFH has dropped recently to about 26 and my watts have jumped to 86. My pf is .59.

Thanks Jeff,

-db

the venturi is connected by threads to the pump inlet...a little work and it could attach at the other end. You'll (or I'll) have to smooth off the hex part of the 1"x3/4" reducer to accept a 1" coupling. right now I have nothing glued together, so you can do whatever you want. I was hoping to get a stock DNW200 venturi from Marine Solutions, but Joe didn't have any there the other day when I went over.

The GG is used to hold all of the mesh I like to shove on there down enough to not rub the volute, And on some impellers there is mesh on the bottom too. I'll be sending you three different impellers to see which works best on your skimmer. there is on on the NW that is 4 layers of mesh at the same diam as the NW, one that is on a standard impeller with all of the paddles cut off that is 6 layers of mesh and the same diam as the stock "new" NW, and one on a sut up standard impeller that is 4 layers of mesh and larger than the stock NW's. The two on standard perform the same, however the larger 4 layers does not reliably startup, while the smaller 6 layers starts up everytime. the one on the NW impeller will pull 38 scfh iIRC but again has some startup issues.

By Hahnmeister's recomendation of 60-70 lph per sq in of neck...the 200 should stabily be able to handle about 37 scfh of air...on the skimmer this mod should be perfect.

BTW I'll prob get your pump out late in the week (Sorry). I have to go out of town for a day or 2 on business.

JCTewks · #**255** 09/10/2007, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kurt03
What tweaks have you changed from before?
I have a bit more work to do on mine before its pulling 40scfh
Interested in the current venturi your using.

I've been tweaking the venturi a little, trying to get the watts and PF a little better...also swapping out diff impellers to see what the difference is.

davidabrown66 · #**256** 09/11/2007, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JCTewks
I've been tweaking the venturi a little, trying to get the watts and PF a little better...also swapping out diff impellers to see what the difference is.

Jeff, no worries on the pump return time frame. I won't get to any mods for another couple of weeks. Thanks for taking the time to work these issues out. It sounds like the nw impeller that you modified with 4 layers of pf4 and GG produce the best SCFH, but is least reliable for starting. Do you think that's due to the weight? Do you remember what the SCFH was with 3 layers of pf4? Did it start more reliably with 3 layers? If it's in the 35+ range, and starts reliably that would be more of use for me anyway.

I'll mess around with all the impellers to see what works best, and then send you back the others.

Thanks,

-db

JCTewks · #**257** 09/11/2007, 04:40 PM

david...I don't need the impellers back as I don't own a 3000

I came to the conclusion that number of layers had nothing to do with startup issues...it is all about the diameter. anything that gets to big around has trouble starting up...wether 2 layers or 6.

SlowCobra · #**258** 09/12/2007, 01:08 AM

Ok less "making it better" in this thread, more end result.

This is less than 36 hrs of skimming. I have to empty the cup daily.

clopez · #**259** 09/12/2007, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SlowCobra
Ok less "making it better" in this thread, more end result.

This is less than 36 hrs of skimming. I have to empty the cup daily.

WOW!!!! What mods have you done and what model is that?

SlowCobra · #**260** 09/12/2007, 01:24 AM

NW200. Removed the top needle wheel, put3 layers of enkamat on then put the needlewheel back on(actually going to take the needlewheel off and put on a 4th layer of enkamat. I don't like the wattage with both NW's on there). Drilled the air inlet to 11/64"(both sides) Custom 90* setup after breaking mine. It isn't that big of a deal. The pump outlet has a piece of 1" PVC ground on the inside to fit extremely tight on the pump threads. Then it is ground down to fit over the factory 90* fitting. Inside the fitting has been ground on as well.

sanababit · #**261** 09/12/2007, 01:59 AM

slowcobra, how are you feeding your skimmer?? is it from the overflow on your tank or from a pump coming from sump???, how much water is going thru your skimmer??, it seems that i have the same skimmer and its not producing a lot of skimmate, im blaming that its conected to my overflow box and running to much water thru it, where can i find intructions on how to do a mesh mod to my skimmer???, thanks

sana

SlowCobra · #**262** 09/12/2007, 02:01 AM

I don't have a recirc skimmer it is the standard run of the mill NW200

192clark · #**263** 09/12/2007, 09:43 AM

Slow Cobra- How did you attach enkamat? I put 3 on with 3 small zip ties and the pump kept humming loud then it gets lower, back and forth.

MSU Fan · #**264** 09/12/2007, 09:45 AM

I think that he used 50lb test line, but he would need to confirm.

SlowCobra · #**265** 09/12/2007, 10:05 AM

50lb? Dude what am I doing, reeling in some sharks!

I used 10 or 12lb fishing line. The zip ties are busted idea and too much of a headache. Use the zip ties to initially hold it in place then sew it on. I sew each individual section as tight as I can. Do not do the mesh mod without a kill a watt.

192clark · #**266** 09/12/2007, 10:17 AM

Thanks for your help.

JCTewks · #**267** 09/13/2007, 12:18 PM

looks good slowcobra...what kind of #'s are you seering now? is that still on 22scfh?

SlowCobra · #**268** 09/13/2007, 12:22 PM

I think I am at around 24. I will change the NW for the 4th layer of mesh and get some new numbers later on.

SlowCobra · #**269** 09/13/2007, 07:40 PM

Ok changed out to a 4th layer which seems to have made ZERO change. I am at about 23-24. Bouncing between 22 and 26 but not out of control bouncing. I will say a solid 23. These figures are with the pump attached to the body in about 14 inches of water.

ccorpse27 · #**270** 09/13/2007, 08:15 PM

Hey slowcobra.... I worked on my nw150 last weekend after I broke the pump output fitting that attaches to the 90 degree piece coming from the skimmer body. It's a stock otp pump with one layer of mesh.

I used a piece of 3/4" pvc as the new pump output and screwed the 90 degree part onto it. It skims well but not near as dark as yours. I only have about 40 gallons total.

You think I should get a larger pump and do you know where I can get spare parts for these things?

SlowCobra · #**271** 09/13/2007, 08:19 PM

The OTP2000 which is what you should have is plenty of pump for that body. You just haven't properly modified it. One layer of mesh is inadequate for starters. Also you need to have a Kill a watt and a flow meter to determine if you are going in the right direction with the modifications. Picking up air and/or water flow at the expense of a huge wattage increase is bad and will lead to premature pump failure. Mod at your own risk with this thought in mind. You can get away with not having the flow-meter but the kill a watt is a necessity. It can be used for quite a bit of tank and home related stuff.

ccorpse27 · #**272** 09/13/2007, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SlowCobra
The OTP2000 which is what you should have is plenty of pump for that body. You just haven't properly modified it. One layer of mesh is inadequate for starters. Also you need to have a Kill a watt and a flow meter to determine if you are going in the right direction with the modifications. Picking up air and/or water flow at the expense of a huge wattage increase is bad and will lead to premature pump failure. Mod at your own risk with this thought in mind. You can get away with not having the flow-meter but the kill a watt is a necessity. It can be used for quite a bit of tank and home related stuff.

I think I might buy a new otp2000 then and start over. I'll look into the kill a watt too. Thanks for the help.

SlowCobra · #**273** 09/13/2007, 08:41 PM

No reason to buy a new pump. If you are thinking of doing that for the 90* fitting that does NOT come with it.

ccorpse27 · #**274** 09/13/2007, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SlowCobra
No reason to buy a new pump. If you are thinking of doing that for the 90* fitting that does NOT come with it.

Oh i have the 90* fitting, I just broke the part the 90* fitting screws into on the pump itself.

Do you have a link to your reply showing the pvc mod you did to your pump?

spreston · #**275** 09/16/2007, 07:39 PM

Need some advice. I bought a rps 3000 two weeks ago and after telling myself I would not do any mods for at least a month, I couldn't wait. I enlarged the nipple and the 90** airhole out of the box and replaced the airline with 1/4"id ro line. Yesterday, I received my killawatt meter and enkamat. This is what I have done so far, today. Removed top NW and added three layers of enkamat and GG, replaced the return line with 1" schd. 40 (insump so not to worried about leaks), took a little off the inside of the volute and enlarged and smoothed out the discharge port. Also, today I broke off the air nipple, so I drilled straight thru for the RO line.

First question, I put a V in the RO line and noticed that depending on how far I stick the line into the venturi my wattage varies from 66watts, pf .34 air intake is a quiet humm. RO line barely sticking in 116watts, pf .47 air intake sounds like a tornado, wattage and etc, varies between these two extremes.

Where should I leave the line? I am going to order a dwyer meter tonight, but I am not worried about how much air I am drawing as much as optimal performance.

Second question, I left the airline insterted to a point were the wattage draw is 99 watts. I have lowered the water level to roughtly 2" below the taper, ball valve 1/4 closed, but the neck seems very turbelent, water level any higher or the valve closed any further and I get a overflow of skim.

Should I lower the water level or open the valve or be patient for a day or so and see how the mods settle in?

Any advice would be appreciated, I am at a loss on how to proceed from this point.