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#1
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...25#post4764325
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#2
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Just wanted to share with Darren the two I built based on his design with some minor changes, the biggest being making the updraft chamber much bigger.
I plan on using a mag 5 or eheim 1250 for this bad boy, but a few pages back I heard someone complaining about heat with the mag so now I may go with the eheim pump. Can people post which pumps they are running these reactors with. Again, Darren thanks for the design and taking the time out to answer all the questions. The info in this thread is invaluable, and may one day put all the Ca Reactor makers out of business. Mike |
#3
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Nice reactors Mike, is that second one that you build for me?
coolwater |
#4
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How much are you asking for them?
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#5
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I am not actively selling these, I built two since the acrylic for two was only 25% more, as thats the way the plastic store charges, so I decided to make two and I will have one available locally for some local reefer
Yup, coolwater the secnd one is for you Mike |
#6
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Mike,
Just check that the 4 plastic screws are enough to keep the lid on without leaking... I found that I needed at least 4 screws per side (a total of 12 screws) before the lid would seal water tight onto the flange. Hennie |
#7
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I agree, a screw every 1-2 inches. If you plan on using the more powerfull pumps, I would stick closer to 1".
I am running a MAG 3 and it works perfectly. I even built my chambers slightly larger than Darren's original design and I think that a MAG 3 is all that is needed. I don't get any heat buildup. |
#8
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I will be using 16 screws in the reactor. I only had 6 screws lying around, so I need to get more
I am still torn between the mag 3, mag 5 or eheim 1250 for this unit.. decisions, decisions... Mike |
#9
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very nice, but im thinking of building a square skimmer, same principal, dto match the square CA reactor I built, do you see any downfalls, My skimmer and CA Reactor, sit outside my tank, so I want them to look similar, one for each side....
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#10
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Look for a thread by H20ENG, as he not only built a square skimmer but posted pictures of it along with other square equipment.
__________________
Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#11
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ok thanks melev. I built this Reactor, based on a Square one, and am gonna build it same height etc, just want to see the plumbing others have used etc
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#12
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Here is my latest project DIY Calcium Reactor. I haddn't added the CO2 tank, gauge or taps with stiff line tubing. This thing is huge 18X9X10, first chamber is around 5inches while other is 3 1/2. Let me tell you now this thing is UGLY. But it will work, until I decide to build another. This was my first time working with acrylic so their was some trail and error. It hold water though, so you can't beat that, especially when you consider it only cost me less than $20. I already had the pump, the acrylic was given to me along with the glue. Just had to buy plumbing parts and screws.
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What you achieve or fail to achieve is directly related to what you do or fail to do It's the Journey that makes the Destination so sweet C. Taylor, M.Ed. |
#13
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I'm sure this has been asked a dozen times if not more in the previous thread, but here goes. I really want a calcium reactor and am toying with the idea of making it myself. How realistic of a project is this for someone who has never owned a calcium reactor? I have hit every link I could find for this one in particular and am just about ready to take the plunge. Any advice? Also, on the cut list referenced to on the other thread, I did not see dimensions for the base (the black acrylic one in the original picture). Finaly, my tank is only a 58 gallon, with possible aspirations of a 125 in the next couple of years. Besides the chamber modification, is there anything else I should change?
Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks. AJL
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McLovin for president |
#14
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Quote:
DIY is not necesarily less expensive; it does mean that if you do it right you are going to wind up with a quality product; one which you can take pride in. I would be concerned since you are already doubting yourself before you even got started. My suggestion is that you read everything on this thread.. if you feel comfortable..then go for it. If you still have doubts, go out an buy one. |
#15
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The parts to do it right in a high quality way are expensive, and if you have to buy the tools it gets even more expensive, and almost comes as close to the cost of a commercially available unit. That being said some of us love to DIY so we don't care how much time or money it takes, as long as we get to get our hands dirty
I for one love to build stuff, and I think my reactors turned out as well if not better then any commercially available reactor, and I love the design Derren came up with. Mike |
#16
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Thanks for your imput. I didn't set out to save money, so not sure about the references to cost? As for doubting myself, thats not really the case either. I am asking for suggestions on improvements and maybe a summary of others' findings in reference to what worked and what worked better.
Maybe a GEO or Deltec is the way to go, but I will continue my quest for information before I make that decision. So if anyone out there is willing to offer suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks AJL
__________________
McLovin for president |
#17
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What CO2 regulator are you folks using? I have a Milwakee MA-957 and I've gone through 4 of these in the past 9 months.
Granted, Milwuakee is replacing them every time they go bad but 4 in 9 mos is not a very good track record. The most recent event was almost devastating. Problem: I'm having a hard time keeping a consitent bubble count for a prolonged period of time. Milwaukee says that its beause too much back pressure builds up between the Low pressure guage and the needle valve that controls the bubble counter. At the suggestion of the magnufacturer; they said to ingnore the low pressure valve. Close tank valve, close low pressure guage valve, open needle valve all the way. Open Tank valve all the way. Slowly open the Low pressure Valve 1/8 turn every 45-60 seconds until you reach the desired bubble count. I followed these instructions, and this morning my sump, display and refuge had a PH of 6.9. Pressure on the CO2 tank dropped from 1000 psi to 700 psi. There was no water in the bubble counter. Apparently at some point it must have just started pushing alot of CO2. Luckily, I wasn't away and caught it the next morning. I immediately started dosing kalk in order to bring the PH back up. Is anyone else having problems with their regulator? Is the Milwaukee regulator just a toy and perhaps I need to be looking at a beter quality reulator? If so, What? Last edited by vmichael; 04/18/2005 at 07:48 AM. |
#18
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I have been using a Milwaukee for almost a year without problems. I set the pressure to about 20psi then open the needle valve until I get a decent bubble count. The actual bubble count for me isn't that important since I have a pH controller that shuts down the CO2 when the water in the reactor hits 6.7. Of course, it is still important to calibrate the pH controller to make sure you don't melt your media like I did last week....
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#19
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Quote:
Where do you place the PH Controller probe in the reactor? |
#20
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Quote:
Quote:
Some "tips":
Good luck Quote:
HTH Hennie |
#21
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This might help some of y'all. http://www.melevsreef.com/tools.html This page contains two links to the "pins" method.
Regarding the regulator and/or controller, I use a Milkwaukee Regulator with with solenloid. It works great since I installed it 7 months ago. If you lost 300lbs of pressure overnight, you have a leak. Using soapy water, you should squirt or spray each connection to see if bubbles form. If they do, that is the leak. My high gauge is at 1000, even 4 months later. To be honest, it hasn't budged in all that time. The low gauge is between 10 and 20 lbs. I aim for 12 to 15 personally. The bubble counter is one bubble per second. Due to my use of Oceanic Salt, Calcium levels have been up around 550 or higher. I actually turned off the CO2 100% about 9 days ago, to let Calcium come back down finally, and I"m using Kent Sea Salt again. http://www.melevsreef.com/parms.html The pH Controller is by Milwaukee as well. The probe is in a cup, mounted in my sump. As the effluent drips into that cup, the probe measures the pH of that water. (The cup overflows into the refugium.) The controller is set to 6.8, and when it decides it is necessary, allows CO2 into the reactor or not. With this device, I've not had to make any adjustments at all. Truly plug & play.
__________________
Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#22
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Quote:
See the pixs in my post on page 33 (Link to page 33). I used a JG 1/2" tubing to 1/2 MPT and drilled the bottom out of the fitting. I placed a threaded T in the return line to the pump and put the JG fitting in the T and the probe in the JG fitting. The pH probe fits in perfectly and does not leak. |
#23
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Can anyone post a materials list please. If I ever find the time I would like to make a web page with tons of DIY projects, parts lists, and instructions. But that is when I get time. For now I want to be able to build one of these for my new 125g.
__________________
The Matrix Has You |
#24
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What type of gasket material is used to seal the top? and where can I get some? I am currently leak testing everything below the cover.
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#25
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I started with
Alk = 8 dKH Ca = 420ppm pH = 8.0 - 8.2 Effluent out Alk = 26 dKH Ca = undetermined pH = 7.2 Quick question is: Should I lower more pH in the effuent out to about 6.5-6.9? |
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