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[saltydad]

Hi! I'm preparing to return to reef tanks after a few years hiatus. I'm interested in what changes have ocurred in equipment, philosophy, etc. Maybe it would be best to start by telling everyone what my tanks had been like.
I had a 75, a 30 tall, and a 10. The 75 and 30 were reef tanks; the 10 was for isolation of new inhabitants. I used Berlin filtration, ie- live rock and live sand, no plenum. For the 75, I did have a sump but it contained nothing except occasional chemical treatments and the pump to send water to the skimmer, a MTC 48"Power Pro Skimmer.I had a 1/4hp chiller, used an EnergySavers hood w/2 175 MH 10,000K bulbs and 2 actinic blue regular fluorescents. Additional circulation was provided by 2 Powerheads in each back corner controlled by a wavemaker.
I did 10% water changes each month, and used kalkwasser , then switched to ESV's 2-part additive. Most of the inhabitants were soft corals and large polyp hard corals; I only had a few SPS corals (acropora). Iused snails and tiny hermit crabs and brittle stars for algae and detritus control, along with a Red Sea purple tang. There were other reef-safe small fish, and a few Crocea clams. The 30 was like the 75, but "miniaturized".
I'd be grateful for comments on what recommendations for changes anyone can make. Thanks!

[CJ]

Welcome back!

The system you describe is not very differenty than many tanks today.

I don't know how deep your sandbed was. Many people subscribe to the idea of a deep sandbed. However there is much controversy about it and whether or not they deteriorate over time.

Many people try to incorporate a refugium either separate or as part of their sump. In it you can grow macroalgae to help reduce nitrates and/or phosphates and sometimes provide an area for amphipods and other goodies to multiply in safety and then feed the tank inhabitants.

A refugium is often lit on a reverse cycle, during the night, which helps stabilize the pH.

Lighting is improving all the time. People now realize that a good reflector is all important to get the most PAR from your bulbs. You probably would use VHO fluorescent rather than normal output. A smaller diameter fluorescent the T-5 is rather new and some people say that it is much brighter than other fluorescent. I think we need more studies and experience with it to decide. Again reflectors are all important and each T-5 should have it's own reflector to be most efficient.

Double ended metal halide are becoming more common, some studies show them to have more PAR than mogul bulbs.

Higher temperature bulbs are becoming more available and more popular. They look good but some are not very long lived and of course the higher the temperature the lower the PAR.

Those are some of the changes I can think about. I'm sure there are a lot more that other folks will help you with.

Good Luck

[saltydad]

CJ-
My LS bed was around 2 1/2" of LS from Gulf of Mexico (a company I used to do a lot of business with-Reef Encrustaceans...anyone know if they're still around?). I cleaned the surface only occasionally with my Python when doing water changes. I agree re- light Kelvin. When I started w/MH I used 5500K! 10,000K seemed radical when it came out!! Also, what experience with T-5 versus PC bulbs? Thanks for the input. Any other comments, suggestions, criticisms from anyone?

[CJ]

I think most people prefer VHOs, particularly the actinics, to PCs. PC's came out recently with a true actinic, but it is my understanding that for some technical reason which I do not recall, they do not keep their spectrum as long as VHOs do. Perhaps this has been corrected. You may want to do a search and see what the latest is. I just upgraded my lighting this year so I haven't been following the threads as closely as when I was trying to decide what to do.

T5s being thinner should theoretically allow you to put more than VHOs in the same space, but it doesn't work out that way because each bulb should have its own reflector and that uses the space. People say they are much brighter than VHOs but unless you use instruments to test PAR, the eye can be very deceiving. I'm sure that Sanjay Joshi and others will be doing some testing, if it hasn't already been done. If it were I, I would wait until the verdict is in. By then of course there might be a new fad LOL

I personally have a 2-3" sandbed and I'm happy with it. Because of all the controversy I'm not planning to switch to a deep sandbed.

I try not to syphon my sandbed unless I have a surge of Cyanobacteria. I don't want to deplete my sandbed creatures.

Come on guys, there must be other ideas to kick around.

[REEFGIRL1]

I would say most who keep SPS in a 75 gal or larger tank use 250w or 400w MH these days along with a calcium reactor. I have 175w and would go 250w if I could.

[saltydad]

Reefgirl1-
Thanks for the input. So you think I should go with a calcium reactor? I was hoping not to have to have more equipment...I was overjoyed when Berlin came in and I got rid of my wet/dry! I have picked up on using 250w MH, and probably double-ended, at least 10,000K, and also probably the VHO's. Thanks to you both...any other comments?

[CJ]

Granted, I don't have SPSs but I have two clams in my 75. I switched from using the two part B-Ionic to the Kent equivalent and was pleasantly surprised to find that I needed half the amount I was using with B-Ionic. Not only that but I had a heck of a time keeping my alkalinity up and needed to use kent's superbuffer DKH every two weeks. Since I switched to Kent's I haven't had to use any additional product, my alkalinity is stable and I'm saving money.

I wouldn't jump right away and get a calcium reactor. You may not need it right away or ever, depending on your SPS/clams load and how much of the two part additive you need to use. Besides, every tank is different, take it slow and adjust as you go and increase you coral load.

You're wise about the 250W MH. That will give you the option of using 20K or higher Kelvin bulbs that the 150W would not because you lose so much PAR.

Good luck

[saltydad]

CJ-
Great! So I'll wait on a calcium reactor. I love the ESV product. Of course, in the spirit of full disclosure (LOL). I've known the owner, Bob Stark, for years. Truthfully, the only problem I ever had with it was pH creeping up too high. I think my problem (replicated by others) was why he came out with the modified version.