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  #1  
Old 12/12/2007, 02:27 PM
Chibils Chibils is offline
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Maldives Flame Anthias (Pseudanthias ignitus)

How difficult is P. ignitus to keep, in general and compared to other anthias species?

Is there anything in specific I need to know about them?


I'm looking at a trio of them and really like them over other the more muted pinks of other anthias.


Thanks,
Chibils
  #2  
Old 12/12/2007, 03:20 PM
Chibils Chibils is offline
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20 views and no one knows anything?
  #3  
Old 12/12/2007, 04:26 PM
SDguy SDguy is offline
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They are like dispars. Proper QT and deworming, followed by starting with really small meaty foods - often, is necessary, IMO, for success. Hardy after that.
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  #4  
Old 12/12/2007, 07:19 PM
reeffreak2007 reeffreak2007 is offline
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Websites I visited list them as difficult,dunno why?Perhaps its ability to accept foods.The Diver's Den had a trio a few weeks ago.I would buy them from there but not anywhere else.They do put there fish through a minimum of 2 weeks to inspect,treat, and to make sure they are eating before sold.
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Aquactinic Constellation and Lifereef custom sump/fuge 65g and skimmer

Anthias junky,keeping:dispars,carberryi,bartelettorum,evansi,squamipinnis,tuka, pulcherrimus, paravirostris
  #5  
Old 12/12/2007, 08:23 PM
CarlC CarlC is offline
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They are just like dispars. They either eat or don't eat. They don't handle shipping very well in my opinion.

Follow SD's advice and you'd be off to a good start. QT no matter who or where they come from.

Carl
  #6  
Old 12/12/2007, 11:01 PM
Chibils Chibils is offline
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The trio I was looking at was in the Diver's Den - with fragile things like anthias (picky, I should say), I prefer to get wysiwyg specimens. Because that way I know they're healthy. Thanks for the advice.


So if I can get them eating, I'm in business?
  #7  
Old 12/12/2007, 11:09 PM
CarlC CarlC is offline
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Get them eating and deworm them and you'll be fine. Wait to deworm them until you have them eating.

Carl
  #8  
Old 12/12/2007, 11:12 PM
SDguy SDguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by CarlC
Wait to deworm them until you have them eating.

Carl
Excellent point. The meds can kill their appetite.
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  #9  
Old 12/13/2007, 03:25 AM
zemuron114 zemuron114 is offline
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what do you guys use for deworming? prazi pro?
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  #10  
Old 12/13/2007, 09:01 AM
SDguy SDguy is offline
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That's what I used.
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  #11  
Old 12/13/2007, 10:12 AM
King-Kong King-Kong is offline
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SDGuy; the flames that you gave prazipro to.. did they still do that mysterious death some time down the road?

I'm still curious why I lost so many of mine, even after they started eating like pigs.

Only have 1 left, now... think ima try to sell him.. no point in having only ONE Anthias
  #12  
Old 12/13/2007, 10:40 AM
SDguy SDguy is offline
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Yes, they did My tank has flukes that only affect anthias. I've even seen small lesions on the big lyretail male on occasion. He just seems strong enough to not succumb. My tank will have to go anthias free for months, according to Calfo, for me to be free of them. That's what I get for not QTing properly all my anthias from day 1. Lesson learned.
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  #13  
Old 12/13/2007, 11:16 AM
CarlC CarlC is offline
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This particular fluke is really nasty! The only indicator is usually your anthias writhing in pain as they try to swim. If your lucky you might see some lesions like Peter has. Also like Peter once these guys are in the tank they stay in the tank until you leave it fee of anthias for some time.

I suspect it lives its early life in the intestinal tract and then migrates to the surrounding flesh. It seems to have a long life span also as some anthias have been kept isolated in QT for four weeks (no treatment) showing no signs of infection only to have it show up later in the display.

I use both methods of dosing Prazi. By feeding the fish live food gut loaded with Prazi I get it into their systems fast. By doing a bath the Prazi has time to pass over the gills, scales and be absorbed slowly internally. Prazi Pro is rather safe so it might not hurt to do a third bath. A freshwater dip before adding the fish to QT would also help also to find out if it is on the body or gills

Until we know exactly what the problem fluke is this is probably the best we can do. If someone should lose a anthias to what they suspect is this fluke getting a necropsy would be a benefit to use all.

Carl
  #14  
Old 12/13/2007, 08:33 PM
Chibils Chibils is offline
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Flames don't seem too much harder to keep than any other anthias if I can get them to eat. If Drs.F&S have them on frozen, is there anything in particular holding me back from keeping them?

I'd need a run-down on keeping anthias in general, but they don't seem much worse than any others (de-worm, qt for a few weeks at least, acclimate slowly, feed at least twice a day, etc.).
  #15  
Old 12/14/2007, 09:52 AM
King-Kong King-Kong is offline
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CarlC: yeah.. my flames/dispar's died mysteriously to something similiar to SDGuy's...

Most out, swimming, eating like pigs, very active.. then the next morning, only 1 left out, swimming. The rest hiding/resting on the rocks not eating. They never ate again, and died. The one 1 guy left out is still fine, and eats like a pig.

Does anyone have any photos of the flukes or additional signs?
 


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