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  #1  
Old 12/15/2007, 08:25 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Location: Murrieta, Ca.
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What do I do???

I just started my 30 gallon tank about 4 months ago. I have 6 green-blue mushrooms but only 2 of them open, the others ones are very small and dull in color. I have a half unit of chemi-pure to remove toxins but has not helped. I have polyps that will not open too. I add iodine once a week for the coral but doesn't seem to help. This is all stuff the fish store said to do. I have two fish that seem to do just fine. Had a clown fish for 6 weeks but died 2 months ago. I have a small alge plant in the back of the tank. The tank is a all in one selff contained system. All of the levels are where they should be and the tank is pretty clean. Nothing is growing though, and I want to fix that. What do I do???
  #2  
Old 12/15/2007, 08:36 PM
saltymight saltymight is offline
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what is your cal levels and salinity
  #3  
Old 12/15/2007, 08:47 PM
BangkokMatt BangkokMatt is offline
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[welcome]
Yes - levels. Can you be more specific. What is your alk, Calcium and salinity. How often do you water change. I you testing for Iodine seeing as you add it. Are you skimming and what lights do you have (though lights wouldn't have an impact on fish health. Also, how do you top off and how regularly.
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  #4  
Old 12/15/2007, 08:47 PM
o.c.d. o.c.d. is offline
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Many corallimorpharians don't do well with lots of light,I kind of depends on the location they grew from 10 inches 2 feet? That info is not alwayes easy to get so I alwayes move them around starting low espesially with new bulbs. Signs of to bright, almost instantly they will kind of blister up in the more translucent areas. not all show this sign. Flow may also be a factor.low and slow to start then moniter changes If they really reachout move em up
  #5  
Old 12/15/2007, 08:48 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Location: Murrieta, Ca.
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Salinity is almost 32 on my hydrometer, if cal is calcium, than I don't know. I don't have anything to measure that. The nitrates, chlorine, ph, alkalinity and iodine are all good. The water is very clean and I clean the filter once a month.
  #6  
Old 12/15/2007, 08:54 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Location: Murrieta, Ca.
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The tank is a Ocean Bio-Cube with built in lights. They are Coralife 10,000k 36 watt, and a actinic 36 watt light. I change (20%)water about every 2 weeks and top off whenever I see the water getting to the too low marker. The water flow only come out of the top left side of the tank.
  #7  
Old 12/15/2007, 09:48 PM
zotzer zotzer is offline
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What filtration media are you using? Once a month isn't enough to clean a sponge, for example. It should be rinsed out weekly. My guess would be that you are having a nitrate issue.

Tracy
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  #8  
Old 12/15/2007, 09:56 PM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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Dude stop adding stuff. Do you test for these before? You need to take a step back and look at the basics.
Water source?
Amount of LS and LR?
Whats used for flow?
How much stock?
Skimmer?
ANd do you know your ammonia,PH,Calcium,nitrate,Nitrite,phosphate?
Do you do water changes and amount changes and do you let new batch circulate before adding?
Type of CUC?

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/sta...opmistakes.htm
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  #9  
Old 12/15/2007, 10:23 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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The filter is a micron carbon filter, a micro bubble diffuser, and bilogical filtration bio-balls. The operation manual says to clean this system once a month. I mentioned in the previous post that the nitrate and other element levels are GOOD. Yes, I test before adding suff. I use reverse osmosis water that is from the fish store. They said my tank is too small for a protien skimmer. Everything I have done is because that employees at the fish store have said to do so. I have 3 bigger pieces of live rock and 4 smaller pieces, about 18 pounds worth. There is plenty of room for growth. I don't know what LS and LR are. The pump has a flow rate of 245 gph with an output elbow attachment that comes out at the top left side of the tank. This tank is designed to be self contained, once bought, it should not require any other piece in terms of the tank components. I do a 20% water change about every 3 to 4 weeks. I am not sure what CUC is either. I try to research eveything that the people at the fish store say to do, that is why I signed up to this forum, to get better advice. I have no experience in this area, but would like to learn.
  #10  
Old 12/15/2007, 10:29 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Demonsp, I checked out that link and it was very informal, thanks...
  #11  
Old 12/15/2007, 10:32 PM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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LS is live sand or substrate.
LR is live rock.
CUC is cleanup crew.
So you have a iodine test kit?
You havent mentioned the basic readings like ammonia ,nitrate , ect.

And trusting your LFS is a NO NO. Im sorry to say but very few care about your tank as much as there wallet.
After you learn more and get more knowledge you will see this at the LFS.Just hang out and listen to how he tries to sell a lion fish to a reef tank owner or a sailfin tang to a 29 gallon tank owner.

Water changes alone should be fine for most softies and LPS in a new system.
You need to invest in a good test kit.
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  #12  
Old 12/15/2007, 10:48 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Location: Murrieta, Ca.
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Thanks for the defs. LS = 15 pounds (white), LR = about 18-20 pounds. I have 6 snails and 12 hermet crabs for my CUC. In my post from 5:48 I mentioned that the basic element levels are good (nitrates, chlorine, ph, alkalinity, iodine etc). I have not test though ammonia or calcium, I didn't get that memo yet I use a I2 Profi Test kit for iodine from Salifert. What is LPS? I assume LFS is local feed store... I was starting to get that feeling, and was hoping to run into someone like yourself here, to get the real story.
  #13  
Old 12/15/2007, 10:54 PM
ljosh ljosh is offline
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You need to get some basic test kits and probably stop worrying about dosing Iodine.

Ammonia should be 0

Nitrites should be 0

Nitrates should be lower then 20ppm

Calcium should be between 380 and 420ppm

Alkalinity should be between 8 and 11 dkh

You might want to consider an upgraded pump.

You might want to consider getting more live rock.

Your best bet to help everyone here help you is get some good test kits. I have a preference for Salifert.

You might want to refrain from taking advice from the same people that are profitting off you.
  #14  
Old 12/15/2007, 10:56 PM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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Read these.

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/sta...opmistakes.htm

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature/view

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm

http://www.asira.org/caresheets
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  #15  
Old 12/15/2007, 11:13 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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I will get another test kit and stop taking the advice from the LFS. What kind of pump should I get and what should I do with more LR?
  #16  
Old 12/15/2007, 11:31 PM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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30 gallon would be 30lbs minimum.Rule is 1 to 1.5 lbs per gallon of water.
I would do some water changes , stop adding iodine , and worry about the basics.
Iodine isnt needed for any new setup.

Also do you premix your new batch a water overnight with a powerhead before adding to main tank?
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  #17  
Old 12/15/2007, 11:40 PM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Location: Murrieta, Ca.
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The water I get is from the LFS which they say is ready to go, it is pre made. So is that good or bad? What's a powerhead? What is LPS, good to go on the LR, and no more iodine... By the basics are you referring to basic elemental levels? What about feeding? Should I try to get a different nozel for the water output that lets the water flow in more ways than just straight out?
  #18  
Old 12/15/2007, 11:53 PM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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If its premixed then it should be fine but your putting your trust in them. Do you test your salinity level?
LPS is large poylp stones like hammerheads.
A powerhead is for water movement. You should have a good cross flow from both dirrections.
I would get a koralia # 2 or 3 for addition flow if needed.
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  #19  
Old 12/16/2007, 12:09 AM
BangkokMatt BangkokMatt is offline
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You are getting good advise and articles here. Things what have sprung to my mind which haven't already been covered are

Top off - If you are only topping off when the line hits the too low mark then you are messing with the levels in your tank. A 30g parameters will change dramatically if you lose a gallon of water. top off once or twice a day even if it is only a small amount of water (RO/DI). That willbegin to stabalize things.

Bio Balls (AARRGH!!!) - You need to rid yoursef of these evil nitrate machines. Take a hand ful out every day until they are gone. You can replace them with live rock rubble or just small pieced of LR. The LR in the main tank will filter for you.

Do you use a skimmer? If not you really should get one ASAP.
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  #20  
Old 12/16/2007, 12:42 AM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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Will do, do I just go to the LFS and ask for 5 pounds of LR rubble and put it in when the balls are gone.
  #21  
Old 12/16/2007, 12:48 AM
BangkokMatt BangkokMatt is offline
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Yes, or break up some LR. What about the skimmer?
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I've spent a lot of money on booze, women and fish. The rest I just squandered.
  #22  
Old 12/16/2007, 12:48 AM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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If your tank is cycled then you want fully cured LR. Just add some good pieces in your main tank and pick a piece thats unatractive on its hammer time.
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  #23  
Old 12/16/2007, 01:06 AM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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What is a good skimmer for a 20g tank?
  #24  
Old 12/16/2007, 01:10 AM
rdb1357 rdb1357 is offline
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The tank has cycled and the LR was fully cured when I started the tank 4 months ago. The LS has some brown areas on the top, how do you get ride of it. I also noticed that there are little almost bug like citters running around the tank that are clear and very small. What are they, and are they bad?
  #25  
Old 12/16/2007, 01:10 AM
BangkokMatt BangkokMatt is offline
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Sorry, I can't advise on the skimmer - but don't get a Red Sea Prizm. It will be worth your while searching the lighting and filtration forum for reviews and opinions.
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