Lighting for 20gal

[Colerphon]

Hey guys, Im looking into upgrading from 4 x 96 watt pc. I really have been thinking about it and I was going to go with t-5's but then everyone keeps telling me that I should just go MH. The problem is I have no idea where to even start. Do MH need actinic supplement? I saw that the sunpod looked great on the ntotm. So I started reading up on it. I like what I hear but not sure if that is just good promotion. I also keep hearing about DE 1400k phx bulbs. would the sunpod use these? also should I go magnetic or electric ballast?

any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh also my tank is a 20 tall. But I might move to my 30 tall.

Thanks

[reefman13]

You will not go wrong with the halide, I absolutely love ming, and would never switch.

When you see the expression "DE 1400k phx bulbs" look at the first abbreviation "DE" that means double ended, which means it is considered and HQI lamp. Then you look at the wattage which in this case is 150W, so then you make sure if you are dealing with the same wattage.

Some people will put a 150W HQI bulb into a 250W light and do what is called "over power the bulb" this will burn the bulb out much quicker, but you get little bit more light out of the bulb (this is something I DO NOT RECOMMEND).

In your case I would go with (I believe you tank is 24" long) the 24" Current USA Sunpod 24" 150W HQI fixture, and separately purchase a Phoenix 14K 150W HQI bulb/lamp.

Just FYI, when you purchase a fixture like the current, it is what is called an "all in one"so you don't have to worry about a ballast.

Personally I know you will be happy with this light, just know that you may need a little desk fan if you don't have enough water movement, as the water will get hot.

Lastly, with this light and really most MH lamps you don't need to supplement anything, however most people do to simulate sunrise and sunset. However with the sunpod fixture you won't even need it because you will have I believe 6 blue LED's on either side of the MH light. And you can put them on an individual timers so you can simulate sunset.

Here's a link to the fixture:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...Code=Current-H
Now, that one comes with a 14K and and some of the others do not they come with a 10K

Here's a link to the bulb:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch..._Code=mh70-150
Now just if you happen to be wondering what the "K" next to the number "6.5, 8.5, 10, 13, 14, 15, 20, (and sometimes) 30, and 50" it is what is called the "K rating" and what that is, is it is telling you what kind of color the bulb has. So for instance a 6.5K bulb is going to be a more yellow color. 8.5K-10K is going to be a more crisp white. And from 13K all the way up it becomes more blue so haveing a 14K lamp you have a nice hint of blue from the light (13 and 14K are probably the most popular K ratings through out the number of aquarium halide bulbs here on RC).

I hope I have answered most of you questions.

If not......post away

[Colerphon]

Hey reefman, Great info. I appreciate it. I am definitely going to look into the sunpod now. What do you think about the outer orbit? Is this overkill?

[reefman13]

In you position I would have to say that the outer orbit system is overkill because that is a ridiculous amount of money for what you are really getting.

You will be more than happy with the sunpod.

[Colerphon]

I just placed my order I got a brand new sunpod with 150 w 14000k bulb for 210 shipped. Woohoo! Should be here by friday. When I put this over my tank about how high should I hang it? and about how long before my corals start to show their true colors? I have some very nice rics that look as if they changed color completely.

[reefman13]

Well, it comes with legs that you will setup, and it will be the perfect hight off the surface of your tank.

If you happen to see the temperature rise, then go out to CVS and buy one of their like $10 clip-on desk fan. Then it will be fine.

Regarding the color of your corals, if you have good water quality then your corals should perk up with-in 24 to 72 hours.

[mr pink floyd]

for the first 2 weeks or so youll need to acclimate the corals to the new light. the jump from PC to MH is a big stress factor and could cause corals to bleach. what i did was i started off with 1 hour a day, every two days i moved the timer up an hour, so its like this:

day1: 1 hour
day2: 1 hour
day3: 2 hours
day4: 2 hours
day5: 3 hours
day6: 3 hours
day7: 4 hours
day8: 4 hours

after a little over a week like that i just brought it up to the full 7 hour period and all did fine

good luck

[NanoReefWanabe]

for 20 tall and especially 30 tall i would have gone with the 250W HQI...if you are only keeping softies and shrooms then the 150 will be perfect...you will be able to do SPS but they will have to be in the thtop third likely..

but you will definitely not be disappointed with the MH i love my 20K 150W

[Colerphon]

Should I do this even though all I have are zoos and 2 soft corals?

[NanoReefWanabe]

yes you have to acclimate your corals to the light..even though you are going from almost 400 watts down to 175ish you should still give them a little bit of time to recognize and react to the different light

[reefman13]

I never did this with my corals and nothing bleached, and that was from a single 96W PC lamp right to a 250W MH fixture and everything had no signs of stress.

I think you will be fine if you don't do it, however a lot of people like to do it just to be on the safe side.