[WaterKeeper]

Originally posted by JohnM99
How about this one - on the way to the LFS stop at the ATM, get a wad of cash, and pay for your new whatever from the LFS say 70% in cash, the rest on Visa and when she sees the statement you will agree with her "that was a pretty good deal!".

I don't know John. If your wife is also into medical imaging she may see right through it.

I know some of you out there don't really read the links I give you. At least that is what my CIA and NSA operatives tell me when they are not reporting on all the WMD's that such and such a dictator has.

I did want to bring up a quote from one of the above articles-

Originally from the RC article by Doug WojtczaK Lighting the Reef Tank
I have personally used all of the above Kelvin bulbs with the following results:

The 6500 Kevin bulbs have given me the greatest coral growth in SPS, LPS placed lower in the tank and even soft corals. The color of the 6500-Kelvin bulbs when supplemented with actinic VHO tubes produces a crisp white appearance. For those seeking the greatest growth rates from SPS corals, I would recommend this color bulb.

The 10000-Kelvin bulbs also achieve good growth rates, albeit slower than the 6500-Kelvin bulbs. Their appearance is white with a slight blue tint when used with actinic supplementation. Bulbs of this color have produced excellent growth with soft corals and LPS in my own tanks along with slower paced SPS growth. I would recommend this bulb for a mixed reef environment.

The 20000-Kelvin bulb is very blue and brings out all of the fluorescent pigments in many corals. While they are visually appealing, the growth rate of my SPS corals came to a complete standstill while using them. I feel that these bulbs are well suited for a tank that simulates a deeper reef environment with LPS and soft corals but from my own experience, I do not feel that they are the best choice for high light SPS and clams. One note about the 20000-Kelvin lamps: in order to get the best intensity and color from these bulbs, they require a special HQI ballast for them to be driven as intended. This ballast is similar to the standard metal halide ballast, but includes a special starter to fire the lamp.

This is a very good point. On choosing any lighting system it is important to try to get a broad spectrum of color tempertures. Pushing too high a K value, while maybe pleasing to the eye, can cause problems by omitting higher wavelength light.

Doug also says one should spurn using the old watt per gallon rule. The rule is surely not scientific but no one ever seems to offer a better solution that is simple for the beginner to understand. You should keep in mind that that 4-6 watt per gallon for a tank minimum is for tanks in the 18"-30" range. The same goes for the 8+ wpg suggested for SPS, clams and anemones. Taller tanks will require higher wattages.

OK, OK! So you know that 1/683rd of a watt over a square meter is a Lux but how many Lux in a bagel smarty pants?

Is also .0929 foot-candles, which is a pretty puny birthday cake.

Someone also asked if there where dimmable MH lights. There have been rumors afloat that they are soon to be available. I'm just not sure how they would work. Where a fluorescent emits light from the phosphors a MH produces light by heating the filler gas to incandesence. It does so by emitting an arc discharge, through the gas, across the internal filaments. If you lower the current the gas will become cooler and the K value will decrease. Lower it enough and the internal resistance will increase to the point where the bulb goes out. Don't you love it when I talk technical?

The bottom line is I'm not sure how they will manage to make dimmable MH but the wonders of science never cease to amaze me.

I also failed to mention moonlights. The really "with it" reefers are always looking for ways to improve the natural function of their tanks and empty their wallets. Moon lighting is one such innovation.

The idea here is to simulate the moon over the reef. A dim light is used over the tank and, if you want to really be realistic, is illuminated in a fashion that simulates the phases of the moon. One of the claims is that this will cause their corals to go sexual and have a once a year breeding frenzy.

Having a tank filled with millions of gametes by horny coral is not an event I relish, at least in my opinion. Two things will happen. One--you have corals all over the place in no time flat. Two--and the most likely, you'll have a major ammonia spike after the orgy. Neither to me is a desirable event. But, to each his own.

Of course, things change and your may want to hold off for the wave of the future before getting lights Future Lights

Well I think I've about worn out lighting. Judging by JohnM's posts everyone wants critters and wants them now!!! I have no idea why someone would wish to pollute perfectly good tank water with fish and inverts but I guess I'll take a look at it next.