Hi amcrambler
To Reef Central
John,
I’m going to address amcramblers questions in detail and wrap up the stuff on lights in doing so. However, with the nice setup you have, I’d say you are ready for some fish or inverts. There is no special order of adding fish over coral. You can start with either. Having a quarantine tank is just great. The good portion of reefers do not quarantine coral. Eric Borneman, our coral expert droid,
thinks it is a good idea and recommends a 3-4 week quarantine, about the same as for fish. The one aspect of a Q-tank for coral is, unlike for fish, it needs good lighting. The lighting should be able to reach the same intensity as that used in the main tank. Here is a situation where a dimmer and fluorescent lighting can come in handy. When you first add a new coral to the tank you can start out with fairly dim lighting and increase it daily until you reach the level of your main tank. Do it gradually, say 10% per day, and you’ll avoid shocking the coral, which often has been under low light levels at the LFS or mail-order dealer.
With that 65 gallon sump it may be worthwhile to add some macro-algae if it is easy to access. I’d get a few critters in the tank before planting it so there is some nutrient exported to the sump.
You’re reading my mind to some extent as I was going to bring up stocking after I finish this never-ending portion on lighting. Your experienced and sound like your well on your way to amusing your dog.
Back to you amcrambler,
I’d say that two 150 watt MH should be alright but I’d supplement them with another 200 or so watts of VHO if you plan on any light thirsty corals. 10,000K is a good choice if you like a crisp white look. If you use half actinic and some 6500K VHO you will have a good color balance. If your lights are the mogul base type the UV shield is part of the bulb. It is the DE and HQI where there may be some harmful, unshielded UV present. UV can penetrate water and unless there is glass or UV absorbing plastic can effect the critters in your tank. Your best bet is to talk to the bulb manufacturer about the need for shielding.
Let’s put this light thing to rest before I get burned out on it! 
Here is a summary of selecting lighting.
To save on lighting costs choose a tank with low overall height. A tank that is 5’ long by 3’ wide by 2’ tall (225 gallons) has a 15 square foot bottom area. A tank that is 4’ long by 2’ wide by 4’ tall (240 gallons) has a 8 square foot bottom but needs twice as much lighting as the longer tank. Why? When we double the distance of the lights from the bottom we reduce the intensity of that lighting to ¼ of the total illumination.
Look around at other tanks. It is really hard to get a real idea of the lighting effect on most computer monitors.
MH will penetrate further into the tank than VHO or other fluorescent lighting. That is true only for the area directly under the bulb. At angles to the bulbs the intensity drops off in the same ratio as it does from raising the hood.
High K value bulbs produce a blue light that penetrates deeper into the water than light of other colors. Higher K values bulbs usually produce less light than their lower K value cousins, which may offset this benefit.
Corals need a broad spectrum of radiation to survive. Try to vary the K values of the lighting to provide a balance. If you like iridescence actinic VHO can be used to supplement lower K value MH.
Don’t go beyond your means. Lighting can be one of the more expensive parts of starting a reef tank. If you need to rewire your home or add a costly chiller it may break the bank. You can have a great reef tank without having high light critters.
Here is some other good RC info--
Electical Systems
Technical Properties of Light Part 1
Light Properties Part 2
Beginners Lighting