RO/DI setup for reef and drinking
 

I currently have a below-sink 2 stage water filtration system with its own mini faucet for drinking water. I'm about to purchase an RO/DI system for my tank, which will replace the 2 stage filter.

I plan on using the 1/4" tubing that's feeding my current filter system, for my RO/DI.

I'd like to plumb a line coming off my RO canister to my mini faucet, and plumb a line coming off the DI component to my aquarium, to an auto top off system. That way I'll have RO drinking water, and RO/DI water for the reef.

I'm wondering if there are any potential logistical issues with this setup. I don't yet have the RO/DI, but I've been doing research online about them.

It seems that for the RO drinking water part, I'll need a holding tank (like the popular 3.2gal capacity tanks that come with certain units), and this pressurized holding tank will service the faucet.

For the aquarium, I'll need a float switch which I'll plumb into my sump, which will be fed by a tube directly off the DI cartridge.

Are there any folks there doing this? If so, what parts will I need? Am I overlooking anything?

There's a vendor on eBay called Cleandrink, who has sold over 2500 units with perfect feedback. The unit I'm looking at is Reef Water Aquarium Reverse Osmosis RO DI combo Filter - eBay (item 230208110386 end time Jan-08-08 18:45:01 PST)

It seems like it will work. Any suggestions from those who have been down this road? Thanks all.

I would like to hear the answer to this myself. Someone please let us know.

I would never run the line off of your DI directly to your sump, you will asking for a disaster. If you do, I would not have a float switch controlling it. I would manually be doing it with a shut off valve from a pressurized holding tank.

I have been doing the setup that you want to do for over a year with no issues. Go to buckeyefieldsupply.com for the plumbing schematic. The DI output goes to a shut-off solenoid valve into a 1 gallon resevoir. The valve is controlled by a modified JBJ ATO which uses 2 float switches in the resevoir. Since the output from my DI is very low (it takes 45-1hr to fill the resevoir) I had to modify the circuit in the controller to increase the fill time for the JBJ ATO failsafe circuit. The reason to have the resevoir instead of a straight feed to the sump is to prevent TDS creep.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11537260#post11537260 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by palawan [/i]
[B]Go to buckeyefieldsupply.com for the plumbing schematic.[/B][/QUOTE]

thanks for the good info, palawan. Could you perhaps provide a link? I'm pretty familiar with Buckeye's site, but I'm unable to find any info on their site re. plumbing for my needs.

If you don't mind compiling some notes, I'd love to read further on what you've done. PM me if you get a chance, and don't mind.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11537026#post11537026 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Saltman [/i]
[B]I would never run the line off of your DI directly to your sump, you will asking for a disaster. If you do, I would not have a float switch controlling it. I would manually be doing it with a shut off valve from a pressurized holding tank. [/B][/QUOTE]

You're not the first to say that, Saltman. On another forum, an experienced aquarist manually fills his sump nightly from a tube that extends from his RO/DI to his sump--but he refuses to put it on a float switch for reasons to which you allude. At the end of the tube above his sump is a ball valve which he turns to top off.

Not too shabby a setup. He doesn't have to worry about the extra variable in the equasion from a float switch. Additionally, he doesn't have to walk buckets from his kitchen to his tank either.