Lighting web site - updated 5/11/2005
 

Just updated my website [url]http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com[/url]
with data for the following Double Ended lamps.


EVC 10000K
EVC 14000K
EVC 20000K
AQUALINE BUSHKE 20000K
HAPPY REEFING 10000K
HAPPY REEFING 14000K
HAPPY REEFING 20000K
ICECAP 10000K
ICECAP 20000K
Coralvue 15000K

As of today the website has 589 spectral plots and lamp performance data.

And YES, I have finally recieved the complete line of XM 15K lamps (400W, 250W SE and DE, 175W SE, and 150W DE), and will be testing them soon.

Enjoy,

sanjay.

> [url]http://www.reefkeepinginfo.arvixe.com[/url]

DNS error; Non-existent host/domain. :confused:

[url]http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/[/url]

thanks for catching my error. I fixed the website address in my earlier post.

sanjay.

Is Happy Reefing still in business? I checked their website but it only says "sold - thank you". Also, any results on 175 watt Blueline 10K, 175 Hamilton 10K, 175 XM? Thanks for taking the time to test!

Sanjay, you are the man. I bought them (XM 15,000K) already as a guinie pig, but it will be interesting to see how well they shine.

Sanjay, have you tested the XM 20kk 175w SE's yet?

Also, most of your tests are without shield "glass". What % on average does it cut your PAR back by using glass?

Thank you for all your light work,

Todd

I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO THE XM 15k !! That bulb looks very nice on pvtschultz's tank (im pretty sure hes the one who posted what they looked like). If they are 80+ in PAR with electronics I will be making a purchase :P

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by grigsy [/i]
[B]Is Happy Reefing still in business? I checked their website but it only says "sold - thank you". Also, any results on 175 watt Blueline 10K, 175 Hamilton 10K, 175 XM? Thanks for taking the time to test! [/B][/QUOTE]

Well, it seems Happy Reefing is out of business. What I am being told is that the 400DE lamps that Happy Reefing was selling are the same as Coralvue lamps.

I need to figure out a easy way to make the change in my database and also maintain consistency with the published articles.

I have not done much with 175W lamps.. but I have a few waiting in line to be tested. They tend to get bumped lower in the priority list :( I will try to get to them sometime this summer.

sanjay.

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by TexasTodd [/i]
[B]Sanjay, have you tested the XM 20kk 175w SE's yet?

Also, most of your tests are without shield "glass". What % on average does it cut your PAR back by using glass?

Thank you for all your light work,

Todd [/B][/QUOTE]

Todd,

based on what I have tested with the DE lamps, the glass shield will cut off about 18-20% of PAR.

As I said earlier.. the 175s tend to get bumped lower in the priority list.

Thanks,

sanjay.

One last set of questions Sanjay.

Do you run the reflectors over the Penn State tank without glass?

How high off the water are the bottom of the reflectors?

If you run without glass at this distance to the water have you lost any reflectivity due to salt spray eventually dulling the reflective surfaces even with routine cleaning?

Thanks again,

Todd

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by TexasTodd [/i]
[B]One last set of questions Sanjay.

Do you run the reflectors over the Penn State tank without glass?

How high off the water are the bottom of the reflectors?

If you run without glass at this distance to the water have you lost any reflectivity due to salt spray eventually dulling the reflective surfaces even with routine cleaning?

Thanks again,

Todd [/B][/QUOTE]

Yes, they are without the glass. Lumenarc did not have the glass when we got these.

The bottom used to be 6" off the water. When I switched to the EVC 10K lamps (they have almost 2X PAR of the Ushio on a M59 ballast) I raised it by 4" more inches. I like this better since I am now getting full coverage of 42" from to back.

The refletor does get salt spray, but so far they have been easy to clean. I have not had the kind of pitting that I had in the past with other reflectors. They must have a better material. They still are pretty shiny after 5 years of use.

sanjay.

That is the information I needed!

I'm getting two tomorrow.

Thanks,

Todd

what are your ideas on the reeflux 10 bulbs offered. i've seen them listed as true 10k's

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by cryb99 [/i]
[B]what are your ideas on the reeflux 10 bulbs offered. i've seen them listed as true 10k's [/B][/QUOTE]

Look for the May 15th issue of advanced aquarist. It will have the data on the Reeflux lamps.

sanjay.

gosh at first I thought it had to be an error in the article! The 20K reeflux putting out MORE Par than the 10 and 14K bulbs.. Crazy! Once I see the new XM 15K data I will be buying some bulbs..

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by jlehigh [/i]
[B]gosh at first I thought it had to be an error in the article! The 20K reeflux putting out MORE Par than the 10 and 14K bulbs.. Crazy! Once I see the new XM 15K data I will be buying some bulbs.. [/B][/QUOTE]

Which 10 and 14k bulbs are you comparing them to?

Actually, there is only 10k reeflux. No 20k reeflux that I'm aware of anyways. The 20k CV does put out higher PAR than the 14k CV and the 10k CV. However, the 10k reeflux does put out more PAR than the 20k CV. I'm not sure why the PAR is so low for the 10k and 14k CV. It is extremely low compared to other 10k and 14k lamps of the same wattage. Of course, it also depends on what ballast you are using for the comparisons. The only ballast which runs the 20k CV at higher PAR than the 10k reeflux is the magnetic.

I would be interested in the geisemann 14,500K bulbs...just a request.

I see you have spectral data for the XM DE 20K on an IceCap electronic balast. I thought they weren't compatible ?

From the [url=http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=MB6861]bulb's description on marinedepot.com[/URL] : The XM double-ended 20000K metal halide bulb offers excellent coloration and good intensity. It is white with a strong blue tint. It brings out the fluorescent pigments in corals nicely. Fluorescent supplementation is usually not necessary, but can be used for added intensity and to simulate dawn and dusk. This bulb will work with a standard magnetic ballast, magnetic pulse-start ballast or magnetic HQI ballast: it is not compatible with IceCap electronic ballasts.

So what's the story?

I don't see anywhere that mentions what PPFD and CCT stand for? I m guessing PPFD is similar/synonymous with Par?

Bob

BraenDead, that is correct. I forget exactly what PPFD stands for. CCT is correlated color temperature. It basically gives you an idea of what the color of the bulb is. Lower numbers indicate more yellow while higher numbers indicate more blue. I think it is pretty similar to kelvin where 10000 CCT = a true 10k bulb. The CCT rating for the bluer bulbs (14K, 20k) is usually off the scale and is listed as NA.

Sanjay, do you know anything on how good the IRIDIUS 250w DE bulbs are? THey are bieng sold by Custom Aquatics. Any info would help. THanks

I did a quick yahoo search and it looks like PPFD is: [B]photosynthetic photon flux density[/B] which seems to be a measure of the photosynthetic usable light emitted by a lamp or any light source for that matter.

tagging along