anyone have a water pressure gauge for RO?
I finally purchased an 100GPD RO/DI Unit, but I feel like it has poor performance. I'm wondering if my house has poor water pressure, and wanted to borrow a meeter if anyone happens to have one.
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Which one did you get Adam?
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purewaterclub*com 100GPD 6 stage, 0 ppm (PW-22-37). Actually bought it through e-bay because it's cheaper, but it's the same place.
Can a pressure gauge be purchased locally at Lowes or something? |
Thats the same one I have. What type of performance are you getting?
I would think you should be able to pick an inline gauge up from any of the big hardware stores. If not, you could try a place like Tri-Bros Supply. The hardest part will be figuring out all the adapters you will need to get it to fit! I had a heck of a time getting mine all hooked up... So many different fittings were needed to hook it up for my needs. |
I only got about ~15 gallons in 10-12 hours...
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How long have you had it running? Most membranes need about 24-36 hours to reach peak perfomance. I have 75gpd unit and my water pressure is about 45psi and it makes about 50-55 gal in 24 hours.
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ok thanks, I'll try to pick up a pressure gauge tonight, and will turn it back on to let it run to see if things improve... the amount a waste water just drives me crazy!
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Just a little heads up on membranes. A 100 GPD membrane has a rejection rate of 90% While a 75 GPD has a rate of 98% . So a 75 GPD is a better choice IMO. Think of it this way if you have water comming in at 200 PPM before the membrane a 100 GPD will give you 20 PPM after the membrane while a 75 GPD will give you 4PPM Just something to think about. You can always change the membrane to a lower GPD but u also need to add a flow restrictor
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The colder the water temp the less they produce.
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[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504169#post11504169 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dave VG [/i]
[B]The colder the water temp the less they produce. [/B][/QUOTE] That was the next thing I was going to say. Over the summer I got about 1 gallon every 10min. Now it takes about 14 min to get a gallon. I have read if your water is too cold you can buy like 25' of line and coil it up in a bucket of water with a heater in it and use that as the supply line. Doing this will allow the water to heat up, thus causing a more productive filter. |
Though water temp does affect productivity it still does nothing when it comes to the output of TDS in the water...
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FYI according to them,
Water Purity Reference: (1.)Tap or well water(300 PPM) ---> (2.)After RO system(20 PPM) ---> (3.)After DI filter(0 PPM) |
Who is that info from the manufacture? I believe what my meter tells me not what a manufacture does...
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Your concern is with output quantity not quality correct? You get 0ppm with yours? I can't seem to get mine to 0 it's at about 2-3.
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[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504779#post11504779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 03Mach [/i]
[B]Your concern is with output quantity not quality correct? You get 0ppm with yours? I can't seem to get mine to 0 it's at about 2-3. [/B][/QUOTE] I get 0 PPM u should be concerned with quality not quanity. I run 2 10" canisters with DI material also |
at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI. |
[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504554#post11504554 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stressed damsel [/i]
[B]Though water temp does affect productivity it still does nothing when it comes to the output of TDS in the water... [/B][/QUOTE] Didn't say it did affect TDS just productivity. |
[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504894#post11504894 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Piazzon12 [/i]
[B]at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality. Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI. [/B][/QUOTE] You should be more concerned with quality... will save u a lot of headaches in the future. |
Do you have low pressure coming out of your faucets? Where is the unit hooked up?
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[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504894#post11504894 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Piazzon12 [/i]
[B]at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality. Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI. [/B][/QUOTE] You should be more concerned with quality... will save u a lot of headaches in the future. |
SD... this is a new unit hooked up yesterday. I want to verify it works properly before I ever bother looking/caring about TDS. If this is the rate at which it will produce water (30 gallons/day) I'm better off buying.
Mach: it's in my basement near a wash basin. The pressure's not terrible, but not great as I'm at the top of the hill. I will try to get a pressure measurement tonight. I'm sure the temp is rather cold as it's in the basement and near the house input |
Even if you have low water pressure you can fix that buy putting a booster on the line. with a pressure booster you will be able to set the water pressure for what the unit call for.
How much waste water are you getting per gallon? I think with mine it's like 4 gallons for every 1. |
Feed pressure is only 35 PSI... looks like I need a booster pump
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I wasn't happy with the output volume if my RO/DI unit either but 50' of line in 80 degree water preheats the feed water enough to just about triple my output. I'd give more exact numbers but I don't remember the exact figures from last winter when I hooked it up. Course I didn't hit on preheating until after I bought an extra RO unit, flush kit and pressure gauge.
Randy |
What does the system say for optimal pressure?
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