This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: [url]http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=6975443#post6975443[/url]

I didn't drill, but used a thin grinding bit and cut them out.

How big of an issue is the metal screw in the top?

I replaced mine with a plastic screw I got from Lowe's. I would say it need to be replaced or coverd with silicone. It will rust.

I had a hard time finding a nylon screw to replace the metal one. If you find one Dan let me know where you got it please.

Does anybody have any opinions on the type of regulators? I'm ready to fire up my reactor but I don't have a regulator yet. I've seen the JBJ and the Milwaukee MA 957 both are about the same price but I'm looking for practical advice here. Oh, is it worth it to get a PH controller right away or not?

Thanks

I have the Milwaukee on my reactor with the Milwaukee pH controller, and it worked awesome. The controller makes it very easy to adjust your levels and maintain them, I would highly reccomend one...

I looked at a lot of reviews and feedback from ppl before i bought my regulator. There seem to be a few more ppl that have problems with the Milwaukee versus the JBJ, so i went with JBJ. I haven't used it yet so the jury is still out. My research could also have to do with more ppl having the Milwaukee over the JBJ, so naturally more ppl with probs. Overall they both seem to be good regulators with a good price, so if you find one cheaper than the other, snap it up. Just my 2 cents

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6975978#post6975978 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by impur [/i]
[B]I had a hard time finding a nylon screw to replace the metal one. If you find one Dan let me know where you got it please. [/B][/QUOTE]

try [url]http://www.mcmaster.com/[/url] ... they'll have one for sure.

well i had rusty water come out of the little red button today.

Miles, were you able to find something to replace it.

I was thinking about siliconing the heck out of the top and removing the screw altogether.

I found the screw at Lowes and Home Depot I got a 8/32 x 1" nylon machine screw and cut it down to 3/4" to fit (I couldn't find a 3/4") works fine for me. If you have H.D. or Lowes look in the speciality screw pull out things and they should be in there.

If you can't find a screw, I recommend just drilling it and tapping it and adding another john guest fitting. You can then T it back into your CO2 input line. It will recirculate the water and any built up CO2 back into your pump.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7115551#post7115551 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gath2 [/i]
[B]If you can't find a screw, I recommend just drilling it and tapping it and adding another john guest fitting. You can then T it back into your CO2 input line. It will recirculate the water and any built up CO2 back into your pump. [/B][/QUOTE]

I might end up doing this, although i like the idea of the button being there to help air escape.

Just disconneect the tubing and the air will go out the john guest fitting.

Can you mount the pH probe horizontally? I am height limited because I'm going to put this in my stand above my sump.

-Mike

I don't see why not. As long as the probe is in contact with the water in the reactor you should be fine.

I hope some people are still following this thread . . .

I built my reactor and did a leak test - everything is okay except that I can't get all the air out of the system.

I've drilled holes in the ribs, and am feeding the system with an aqualifter pump. I let the system run overnight but the air wouldn't exit. The pump runs really loud with all the air passing though.

Will this continue to be a problem once I have the media loaded and am running CO2?

Did anyone else have this problem?

-Mike

For mine, the air worked itself out after a couple of days. The pump was really loud at first but now I can't even hear it.

Just tilt it so the air goes up to where the red button is. Press that and it will release all that trapped air.

I guess my problem is the aqualifter pump - it is filling the unit too slow. For fill up I'll use something with more flow to clear the air out and then replace it with the aqualifter.

Also, I bought one of the Milwaukee regulator/ controller combos. Do I fill the bubble counter up with RO water or saltwater?

Thanks,


-Mike

RO water.

Yeah mine takes a couple of days to get the air out, but then its pretty much dead silent. Its a great reactor and does very good keeping up with my tank.

Has anyone ever tried to build a double chamber calcium reactor out of two Sea Clone 150 chambers? It seems like an easy fit. How would you plumb the recirculating and feed pumps?

Not sure if anyone is still following this thread - but I just finished my copy of the WmTasker Ca Reactor (nice name BTW), and everything was about as easy as could be. Thanks to everyone for the great mods along the way and of course to WmTasker for the original concept.

Here's my question: for the CO2 line, it looks like most everyone is using CO2 resistant polypropylene tubing (like you use for an RO/DI unit or a refridgerator icemaker) which is what I planned to use as well. Then my LFS said I should use CO2 resistant silicon tubing (similar to regular airline tubing) because the polypropylene tubing will not seal properly on the bubble counter connection. Has anyone found this to be an issue?

I like the polypropylene better because I like using the JG fittings on the reactor, but now I am conflicted. Any comments?

Thanks again!

Kyle

I rather have the pp tubing was well. That is what I am using on my CR.

BTW this is the best DIY on RC my reactor is 9 months old now best money I ever spent on a DIY project.