With all these mods you guys are doing, why don't you just add a simple stopper on there as well? It would be so easy and solve that reverse spinning issue.

I'd like to hear more about the stopper, dhnguyen.

Do you have any ideas? I know you guys use a stopper on the MJ1200 mod, but I have never seen a picture of it...

I bought two oceanflo kits when they were still in business and never had to mod them myself, so I missed out on the stopper thing.... Please enlighten us...

i just did the full blast pretty much, and it cranks it across the tank again! good call

and for the 6025 i really dont see the need for a stopper. Right now i dont really want to spend time doing any more to this pump to be honest. I found 2 mods to make it a 6045 for free, then jacmyoung found another to make it a 6055 pretty much(i think it was you, ive lost track of these), for the different pumps like the 6045 and 6055 a stopper is built in, we may haev just cut it off, im not sure

but thanks for everyoen who has done this mod, foudn ways to improve it, and foudn their own mods to help out, great work

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9401568#post9401568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr pink floyd [/i]
[B]
and for the 6025 i really dont see the need for a stopper. [/B][/QUOTE]

One of my 6025s runs in reverse more than 50% of the time and it never corrects before my controller turns it off.

I only did the first mod on all four of my 6025s and I'm happy with 1100GPH+ so I definitely like to learn more about putting on a stopper... Especially since the controller turns them on and off at predetermined time intervals.

i will say my modded pump is quieter then my non modded pump now.

after the mod it does seem quieter too, but still annoying. im looking to buy a mousepad, and use a piece of rubber from that to put between the glass and the magnet on the pump. I have a thin cork coaster on the outside that helps, but i figure some rubber material on the inside will help too. Ill just cut it to fit the underside of the magnet so i cant see it

one thing i noticed was if the front cover was not snapped completely in place it can rattle. sometimes wheni adjust mine i pop the cover loose just a little and it makes noise.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9401683#post9401683 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hammerswinger [/i]
[B]i will say my modded pump is quieter then my non modded pump now. [/B][/QUOTE]

You are right, both my 6025s are dead silent, I thought they were but now I think about it they did have some noise but right around the time I did the mods, no more noise.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9401652#post9401652 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skydancer [/i]
[B]One of my 6025s runs in reverse more than 50% of the time and it never corrects before my controller turns it off.

I only did the first mod on all four of my 6025s and I'm happy with 1100GPH+ so I definitely like to learn more about putting on a stopper... Especially since the controller turns them on and off at predetermined time intervals. [/B][/QUOTE]

Let me make you a deal. I am working on the stopper mod, haven't finallized yet but getting close. I will let you into my secret if you can do the full blast mod on one of yours and do a flow test for us:)

Anyhow, I passed by Lowes today and decided to check it out, found this thing called "Dremel Workstation" very compact design, decided to bite the bullet since I have a skimmer mod and a few others to do after the nano mod:
[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/168656025-7.jpg [/IMG]

And did the full blast mod on my other 6025 with it, took only another 10 minutes, made it as good as a DIYer can do I think:
[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/168656025-5.jpg [/IMG]

This is what it looked in the tank:
[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/168656025-6.jpg [/IMG]

the stopper could be done very easily.
I borrowed photos from jacmyoung for this.



Basically you drill a small hole on the shroud infront of the propeller leaving just enough room for the prop to spin (1/8" or so).
[IMG]http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u260/dhnguyen/stopper_mod%20for%20nano/shroud1.jpg[/IMG]
This hole is where you will place a pice of plastic, bolt or rod or something similar (I use weedwhacker nylon wire as it is softer and won't damage the prop).
[IMG]http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u260/dhnguyen/stopper_mod%20for%20nano/shroud2.jpg[/IMG]
When the propeller is spinning the wrong way, it will pull the magnet foward and hit the stopper and stop spinning. Then the magnet from the motor will suck the whole thing back in again. This repeats until the spin is corrected and the impeller magnet remains inside the pump motor. The whole process should happen fairly quickly within a second or 2.

It is so simple yet I don't understand why Tunze failed to include this in their design.

while the vid is uploading, these are pics of the mod as of now, sorry for bad pics, the tank is kinda cloudy from the flow increase and my camera isnt very good when my halide is on


10 minutes + Hacksaw =

[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/mikey31491/tunzenanomod010.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/mikey31491/tunzenanomod008.jpg[/IMG]

[url=http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/mikey31491/?action=view&current=tunzenanomod011.flv][IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/mikey31491/th_tunzenanomod011.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I really can't tell the difference between the 60025 & 60045 housing's and what would act as a stopper, or anti-rotation device.

The ONLY thing I can see different is the shape of the cross bars on the front. Looks like the edges are curved up at the end's of the bar's. If this is the only thing doing this, Why in the world didn't Tunze just make the mode's all the same?

Here's some close up pic's. Maybe one of you can figure it out.

Or... could you use a 6045 housing in a 6025 motor block?



[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/56970tunzastoper1.jpg [/IMG]

[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/56970tunzastoper21.jpg [/IMG]

That is precisely what I think that curved wedge on the cross bar is for too. Although from the look of it the wedge doesn't seem to go in far enough to work 100% of the time I bet.

strange that they can consider minor differences in the shroud between the 6025 and 6045 enough to charge $30 more.

Just like cpu's they're all the same, they just clock them down.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9403322#post9403322 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen [/i]
[B]That is precisely what I think that curved wedge on the cross bar is for too. Although from the look of it the wedge doesn't seem to go in far enough to work 100% of the time I bet. [/B][/QUOTE]

I don't know... I still say it's something electronic in the motor. The reason is dew to I cut the cross bars out of my 2nd 6045 (a bone head mistake) and put the protective grating on the end. My 6045 (other than a split second) turns the right rotation every time. I think the cross bars only keep the impeller from shooting out of the housing..

But I really don't know.. I'm just drawing straws.

That must be it, it is not electronic because Roger at Tunze said there is a physical stopper in the 6045 housing.

BTW dhnguyen, I have a much better idea for adding a stopper in a modded 6025 but I will wait till Skydancer answers my call before spilling the beans:)

As far as the $30 difference, the above poster was right, Tunze clocked the flow down and sells 6025 for less. Roger openly admits this so I fully accept his explanation.

They could of course have made a smaller nano like Hydor pumps did, and sold for less, but instead they decided to save the time and manufacturing and just crank the 6045 down and sell for $30 less, because for a true nano tank owner, the $95 price tag may be too high. In the process we DIYers lucked out. So I don't see how you can blame Tunze for this.

One more observation, there are reports of modded 6025s stopped self-correcting while the self-correction was working before the mod. I think it is because after the pipe inside is cut out, the reverse flow is more spread out therefore less forceful, not able to push the prop unit out far enough, therefore not able to complete the self-correction process.

BTW, awesome video mr pink floyd, I am glad I am not that green chromis in your tank:)

Does anyone know if you can put a 6025 housing on a 6045 motor block? There supposed to be the same size? If so this should fix the revering problem.

But even with my cross bar tabs cut out my 6045 turns the right way every time.

yea, they chromis were hiding, but came right out for food, all three of them this time, usually one is scared. But my cinamon clown may haev to go, he hides in the back corner behidn the rocks all day, been that way for months, hes got great coloring, but i want to see my fish, hell be hard to catch though, so i may just let him stay

i also found the key to quieting this thing down

the outer magnet does not need to be directly centerd with the magnet in the tank... if you center them, it is a very strong grip, but if you twist the outer one, it will still hold firmly, but take what seems lie ka few lbs of pressure off, making less vibrating noise, and all i can hear now is a slight hummmmmm!

liek i sadi before, it would be great for tunze to make the magnets weaker, but offer an upgrade for thicker glass if the owner is using it on a larger tank, because to me a nano also means a clean, small QUIET setup. When i turn the pump off you could literalyl hear a pin drop, and now i figured this out, silencing the pump an amazing ammount, try it!

at night go to your tank, turn everything that makes noise off and listen to the tunze, during the day it doesnt seem liek much, but at night (im guessing our senses get stronger becasue the lack of eyesight) its very loud and annoying to sleep with

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9404418#post9404418 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by atvdave [/i]
[B]Does anyone know if you can put a 6025 housing on a 6045 motor block? There supposed to be the same size? If so this should fix the revering problem.

But even with my cross bar tabs cut out my 6045 turns the right way every time. [/B][/QUOTE]

No.

Most nanos can self-correct without a stopper, some can not.

Well I had to post because after following this whole thread from the beginning, I finally did it.
I modded both of my 6025s, just doing the basic mod, and the extra flow is SWEET!!
So thanks everyone, especially PinkFloyd, becuse this is a great upgrade to flow.
Take that Hydor!!

I just finished my reduction of the output shaft length and wow, Its like i have new pumps in there. My 26 bow has so much flow but it seems gentler. Not as much sand being kicked up but more coral movement. IN my 26 the pump is in the middle hitting the front glass and deflecting the water around both directions. It seems now the flow is more erratic then it was before to! And we owe it all to a high school kid!

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9404260#post9404260 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung [/i]
[B]

BTW dhnguyen, I have a much better idea for adding a stopper in a modded 6025 but I will wait till Skydancer answers my call before spilling the beans:)
[/B][/QUOTE]

OK jacmyoung, I 'm not objecting to measure the flow on the Full Blast moded nanostream but...
As you know I own 4 6025s and are all moded to the first mod. (Only cut out the inside funnel). The flow is 1100gph+ per nano. I have an aquacontroller III pro turning the nanos on/off to create different flow patterns. I'm thinking if I go to the full blast mod, I'll never be able to start the 6025 spinning the right way. What say you? If the stopper will fix that then I'm going with the full blast mod and I'll measure the flow. I'm curious too you know.

By the way, did you buy the Dremel station at home depot?

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9406812#post9406812 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skydancer [/i]
[B]OK jacmyoung, I 'm not objecting to measure the flow on the Full Blast moded nanostream but...
As you know I own 4 6025s and are all moded to the first mod. (Only cut out the inside funnel). The flow is 1100gph+ per nano. I have an aquacontroller III pro turning the nanos on/off to create different flow patterns. I'm thinking if I go to the full blast mod, I'll never be able to start the 6025 spinning the right way. What say you? If the stopper will fix that then I'm going with the full blast mod and I'll measure the flow. I'm curious too you know.

By the way, did you buy the Dremel station at home depot? [/B][/QUOTE]

Point taken. I am pretty sure my stopper will work and you will not be disappointed, but give me a few days to actually have time to do it on one of my 6025s to be sure, I will then let everyone in on the full detail.

The workstation was at Lowes, fairly new product, not for serious machine work but good enough for our purposes.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9404453#post9404453 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung [/i]
[B]

Most nanos can self-correct without a stopper, some can not. [/B][/QUOTE]

Now that you mention it... Out of my 4 6025, I have one that never (or almost never - it seems like) spins the right way. I don't know how to correct it... pretty frustrating...

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9407517#post9407517 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skydancer [/i]
[B]Now that you mention it... Out of my 4 6025, I have one that never (or almost never - it seems like) spins the right way. I don't know how to correct it... pretty frustrating... [/B][/QUOTE]
send it to rodger