[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Herbert T. Kornfeld [/i]
[B]Sanjay, 2 Qs...

One, I thought you tested the hamilton 250 - 14,000Ks in the DE version as well...they arent on the site...???

Also, in late Sept, Penn State is having some big meeting on china<<<not sure what exactly yet. My woman was asked to participate (grad student with vast international first hand experience) on one of the panels...so it looks like a visit is in order! It would be an adventure to see what you have going on...up for visitors? [/B][/QUOTE]

I do not recall having tested a 250W 14KK hamilton DE lamp.

I do not know what this China meeting is.. but if you do come we will be happy to give you a tank tour.

sanjay.

Just updated the lighting website [url]www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com[/url] today. It is now up to date with all the XM 15K lamps.

enjoy.

sanjay.

Ouuuuch, those XM 15,000K results are crappy!

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Herbert T. Kornfeld [/i]
[B]Ouuuuch, those XM 15,000K results are crappy! [/B][/QUOTE]

It really makes you wonder why they bothered.

I second that

I third that

Hey correct me if I am wrong, can't seem to grasp the Sanjay page on lamp results. Maybe I' getting too old for this math and electrical stuff.

Running PFO 250W and 400W standard ballasts, the 10,000K XM bulbs put out the most PAR, right?

PPFD = PAR .... so the higher the # then the higher the PAR.

Thread stickied for easier access to our members!

Nanook

400w DE, any updates?
 

Still trying to figure out if it is worth switching over from my 250w DE running on an icecap ballast to a 400w DE on a PFO or Taiwan ballast makes sense right now?

I have a 120g cube, 30 inches tall....guy i bought it from used the 250 with good success, I guess the reflector on the pendant is a good one... so wondering if I would be better off keeping it for now, or would the 400w DE be a better upgrade and give me more coverage in a 30in tall tank?

thanks
G

i recently ordered 400W IceCap DE. but i dont see much i can compare them to on the site.

Thanks for all the info!

Sanjay, I dont know if this has been asked already or maybe somebody here can point me to another link or something...

Why do coralvues have two different 10k's on their 250 watt bulbs...

Coralvue SE1 and Coralvue SE2

And how to tell which one you are buying...

Thank you.

Sanjay, I just received a PFO Shimmer light fixture. The MH bulbs supplied with the fixture are Krystal Star 175w 11k's. Ever heard of these? I did a search for these bulbs but to no avail.

Just got a complete set of PFO Krystal Star lamps, I am burning them in right now and will be testing them next month.

sanjay.

1000watters?!?!? Ever?

Sanjay, I dont know if this has been asked already or maybe somebody here can point me to another link or something...

Why do coralvues have two different 10k's on their 250 watt bulbs...

Coralvue SE1 and Coralvue SE2

And how to tell which one you are buying...

Thank you.

Based on his Sanjay's results, the Aqualine Buschke 250W 20000K DE bulbs I have with IceCap eBallasts are virtually worthless with a PPFD of only 38? And, the best I can hope for is a PPFD of 97? Someone out there correct me if I'm wrong but maybe I should get rid of my IceCap ballasts??

If you are going to run 20K lamps and e ballasts you wont have much PAR. I'd go through and see which 20K lamp has the highest PAR on the IC ballasts and go with them. My 14K EVC's running an EVC e ballast measure 55 on Sanjay's site and in the real world I get over a little over 90 on the bottom of the tank (18" below the surface)

My cousin runs his tanks with nothing but AB 20,000Ks (DE) on his HQI ballast. he gets great growth and awesome looking corals.

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by katchupoy [/i]
[B]Sanjay, I dont know if this has been asked already or maybe somebody here can point me to another link or something...

Why do coralvues have two different 10k's on their 250 watt bulbs...

Coralvue SE1 and Coralvue SE2

And how to tell which one you are buying...

Thank you. [/B][/QUOTE]

Often times I get multiple lamps of the same brand and color temp. I test them both and label them as 1 and 2. It gives some idea of the variation between the lamps.

Coralvue changes thier lamps so often that I have no idea what to expect from thier lamp.

sanjay.

So is PAR something to not put much weight upon? My tank will be 30" tall when I convert to the 150. I have one of these 20k's with the IC ballast over my 65 now and things are doing better than when I had 2x175 10k's and 2 x 96 actinic pc's.

PAR is the light spectrum that grows corals. On a 30" tall tank I would go with 400 watt halides with top of the line reflectors and balasts if you want 20K lamps.

Grim, not that I disagree, but I have noticed something and would like to make a hypothesis.

I dont think that its all about PAR. I have noticed that many corals develop better color under bluer bulbs...or that running a 10,000K alone doesnt always bring out the color or growth. I have had problems with 10,000Ks causing corals to 'brown out' from too much light...but I have yet to see a 20,000K that causes my corals to brown out & stunt growth. Why is it that if I run a tank with a 10,000K alone for 8 hours, my corals brown out, loose colors like blue & purple...yet if I limit it to 5 hours a day and run actinics 24hours a day they color in nicely?

From what I remember, PAR consists of a few spectrums in the blue and red spectrums. Plants and algae like the redder light...and corals seem to like the bluer. So it might be possible to have a bulb with lower overall PAR, yet more in the blue range than a higher overall rated bulb...Radiums anyone?

Just an idea. But I notice that 10,000Ks alone dont do it for me, even though they tend to have the highest PAR (well, besides a 6500K, but Im not going there).

[QUOTE]I dont think that its all about PAR.
[/QUOTE]

Fortunately corals don't understand PAR.

I've grown beautiful corals for years, several decades actually, with bulbs that would be tossed aside given today's mathematical criteria.