And last but not the least, a spy photo of my plan for a 6055, only if it will be available in time and if the 18W DC motor can handle it:)

[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/168656055spy.jpg [/IMG]

That's not fair...
Zoro, take the mask off!!!:D

INSTEAD OF CUTTING THE WHOLE TOP OFF I TRIED DRILLING HOLES 3 WITH A 3/8 DRILL BIT. THIS KEEPS THE TUNNEL AND IT ALSO ALLOWS MORE FLOW. HOWEVER I COMMEND THE PERSON ORIGINALLY DOING THIS MOD. GREAT THINKING AND A GREAT JOB EXPERIMENTING. THE HOLE DRILLING WORKS FINE TOO. THEREFORE YOU CAN CONTROL HOW MUCH XTRA FLOW YOU WANT INSTEAD OF JUST CUTTING THE WHOLE TOP OFF.


SORRY FOR THE CAPS. I JUST REALIZED IT WAS ON

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9616277#post9616277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skydancer [/i]
[B]That's not fair...
Zoro, take the mask off!!!:D [/B][/QUOTE]

Zoro is not Zoro without the mask:)

I just noticed one of my screen caps is cracked. After the wide flow mod and the stopper mod, the screen and the pipe became a very very tight fit.

I'd suggest use a little black ABS glue evenly applied over the pipe then press the cap in, once cured the stopper can not be removed but I did not see any reason to remove the stopper anyway. That will avoid screen cap damage.

On close inspection, I realized the screen cracked at the point where I have made a small cut on the rim to fit it better on the pipe, so I unintentionally weakened the cap. If the cap was untouched you should be fine, don't rush to glue it on yet, sorry for the false alarm.

On a bright note, I am drawing a plan to fit the Hydor Koralia 4 pump motor block into the Tunze Nanostream ball to get the nano to pump out 1800 to 1900gph, stay tuned.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9619662#post9619662 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung [/i]
[B]On close inspection, I realized the screen cracked at the point where I have made a small cut on the rim to fit it better on the pipe, so I unintentionally weakened the cap. If the cap was untouched you should be fine, don't rush to glue it on yet, sorry for the false alarm.

On a bright note, I am drawing a plan to fit the Hydor Koralia 4 pump motor block into the Tunze Nanostream ball to get the nano to pump out 1800 to 1900gph, stay tuned. [/B][/QUOTE]

where did the black prop come from?

tagging along....want to get a couple of the 6025's and mod atleast one of them.

Jacmyoung please tell us how your pretty mods work ?

My pretty mod from the spy photo? It is just a photo at this time until I can get a 6055, want to loan me your 6055 for a test once you get it?:)

I did get my K4 from Drsfostersmith, did a quick mod using a Tunze 6060 prop and a MJ1200 impeller magnet unit. With the mod the K4 was drawing 19W, not really pumping out that much more than my modded 6025. I then checked on the Tunze site, the 6060 is rated 1500 to 1600 gph at 11W. If my guess is right all AC pumps spin at a similar speed, then my modded K4 should be doing 1500 to 1600 gph since it was powering a 6060 prop.

It is otherwise difficult to test the flow rate on a K4 so that was my best estimate. If my estimate is right then the K4 is really no comparison to the 6025. An unmodded K4 is pumping 1200gph, similar to a modded 6025, but drawing 12W instead of 6025's 7W. Below is a picture of both modded pumps:

[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/168656025_K4.jpg[/IMG]

bad reply

With adjustments made, I was able to get the K4 to pump out about 1600 to 1700gph at 16W. It ended up with a MJ1200 impeller unit fitted with a trimmed down Octura 1240 prop for the mod to work perfectly. I plan to reduce the modded K4 size by 30%, at that point I would consider it a good match to the modded 6025.

For more details check out the K4 super mod thread.

I was about to go buy a Vortech for $345 bucks and I remembered the 6025 mod and forgot to do it. I did the simple mod and see some improvement. I have to go buy a new dremmel, as I tore mine up drilling my tank last summer. So I hope to improve that performance and save myself $300 bucks.

Yea I cut out the thing inside the screen the bottom part on my 6045's and it increased the flow A lot. =Would it even be better to cut some grooves on the bottom also?

Okay, it trimmed out the inside and cut three slits in the bottom of the discharge tube. Flow is much improved.

Now my prop it rattling inside. Any thoughts on what is causing this?

does any one think that he's got too much flow? can't you damage xenia and other corals with too much flow? good idea though. watch out for those cromis either you gotta feed a lot or they'll start killing each other, it happened to me, now i have one. cool mod, good luck!

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9596590#post9596590 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung [/i]
[B]Here is another teaser mod I did, let's call it the Extreme Nano Makeover. I fitted a 1.5" black ABS coupler ($0.79 from HD) onto the front housing with black ABS glue ($1.50? at HD). Alot of fitting and polishing were done to make it look nice so it may not be worth it for a 6025. [/B][/QUOTE]

okay... so this is on my list of To Dos... my 6025 should be coming today (trading for it with a local reefer), my dremel is in the mail and should also come today, and im going to order a new cover to mod so if i mess it up i have an extra...

i am pretty good at DIY but any tips on cutting the coupler to fit correctly?

did you trace the circle onto the cover first and cut it out... then trace the curve onto the coupler and cut it?

which fish screen fit? this is so i know what to order from tunze

any general idea on the GPH of a pump like this? i want as much flow as possible, but velocity is less important...but still necessary, otherwhise why even have the pump in there, right?

if i am understanding the mod correctly its like a two fold mod in one... you are removing the inside tube to increase the flow... and you are shortening the outlet to produce wider flow... so if i wanted a little more velocity but still wide flow i could use a 1" coupler? or 1.25" coupler?

If you want more velocity then don't bother with this ENM, it is not worth the effort. Remove the front housing and run the pump, if this is the flow you like then the ENM is for you. The Tunze Stream 6060 or 6080 cap will work, some sanding will be needed, it then can be glued on to the coupler with black ABS glue.

I cut the coupler in half in a 45 degree angle, then began routing out the edges until it had a good fit on the nano front housing, glued it on, using the nozzle as guide to center the coupler and also made sure it was level. Don't use too much glue at this point, only need to bond the two so you can work on them later.

After the glue was cured, routed out the original nozzle from inside. Cleaned it then used a small brush to paint small amount of glue along the junction line to make it look nice and also made the bound stronger.

Finally I cut slits under the belly of the coupler to make a full blast mod out of it. Buy a few couplers to practice the cutting and painting before using the shroud.

In the picture below, I have my ENM 6025 on the left and a shortened Hydor Koralia 4 on the right. The 6025 glue was smoothed out with a fine sand paper, the K4 glue line has not been sanded yet.

[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/578/168656025_K4-2.jpg [/IMG]

So far my suggestions for folks consider the smaller stream pumps are:

1) If you are thinking modding either the 6025 or the Hydor K4, definately go with the 6025. My modded K4 barely holdes on to my 1/2" glass, not to mention the bigger size. My modded K4 also doesn't get me enough flow increase to justify it because the flow is V shape hardly reaching further than a 6025 with the wide flow mod.

2) Run the pump continously as designed. While I have not run into issues after putting my 6025s on a wavetimer crash course, I do see potential warrantee issue. If you really desire alternating flow, should consider a 6055 and the controller combo. While it will cost more, but you get twice the flow from a 6055 and the benefit of the wavemaking should well justify the added cost.

Guys thanks for posting this mod. I did it today with my dremel and it took me a matter of seconds... I seen a "HUGE" increase in output... I was actually going to buy the 6045's but now have no need too;)

I left the front shroud intact but am considering doing the full blast mod underneath the pump? Is that mod recomeneded to? Will it increase the flow even more.. Right now my tank is 75 gallons and I have two of the 6025's with the inner shrouds cut off. I also have a modded maxijet too. My return is about 500gph so with the new modded 6025's my tank is going crazy... I think I am going to pull the maxijett out and possibly sell it.. If the full blast mod moves more water this will be the option...

Also anyone running these on a controller? I am getting a neptune jr next month... Any ideas?


Another question, is there another prop you can add as well to these like the MJ MODS????

Thanks and great work guys

Spankey;)

The full blast mod will give you another 200gph. No bigger prop can be used on the 6025 because the Germans had maximized the pump motor. There is only one possible exception which I hope Skydancer can report back on that one soon.

I no longer recommend using them with a wavetimer simply because they are designed for continuous use, you can certainly turn it off at night or during feeding.

I've been alternating my two 6025's on and off every fifteen minutes with my ac jr. I had a little problem with them not turning off at first, but that fixed itself. Apparently the issue happens because the 6025's have such low power draw. Anyway, it's been working perfectly for the last few days.

Oh, my 6025's have all the mods (std, full blast, wide flow, stopper).

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9679960#post9679960 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paliya [/i]
[B]I've been alternating my two 6025's on and off every fifteen minutes with my ac jr. I had a little problem with them not turning off at first, but that fixed itself. Apparently the issue happens because the 6025's have such low power draw. Anyway, it's been working perfectly for the last few days.

Oh, my 6025's have all the mods (std, full blast, wide flow, stopper). [/B][/QUOTE]

Is it simply switching the 6025s on and off? The reason I no longer recommend such arrangement is frequent prop hitting the stopper at full speed puts a lot of stress on the shaft, although the new pumps have tightened shafts still the long term prospect is unknown. I hope there is a controller out there that can turn the speed up and down without shutting it off completely.

Also as I said earlier, one of my fish screen cap cracked under tight fit (after the wide flow mod the cap is very tight), I had to fish for my cap, stopper and prop in my 30" tall tank, not a fun thing to do.

I suggest in this case glue the cap onto the nozzle with black ABS glue. Evenly apply a thin layer of glue around the outside rim of the nozzle, press the cap in and hold for a minute, then let it cure overnight before use in the tank. You will not be able to remove the stopper after that but I don't see any reason to remove it anyway. This may avoid any possibility of a cracked cap in the future.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9679462#post9679462 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung [/i]
[B]No bigger prop can be used on the 6025 because the Germans had maximized the pump motor. There is only one possible exception which I hope Skydancer can report back on that one soon.

[/B][/QUOTE]
I should have all the info by mid June. Stay tuned...

BTW, I have four 6025s facing eachother on the oposite ends of the tank. Each pair of 2 comes ON for 60 minutes and OFF for another 60 minutes. I have not noticed any problems yet...

ok, tried the basic mod last night (UK 6025 model) after reading all these pages a few times over.

The flow is definately stronger and I now only have one dead spot in the tank. The pump is difficult to reach where it is currently positioned so any improvements I make will be gradual (I hate disrupting everything). No problems with noise or the motor running in reverse although to be careful I will not be running this pump on a timer. Tunze Streams run in reverse all too often and I have seen them chew fish up at times! :eek:

Only problem I had was the increased flow detached some macroalgae which could have been chopped by the prop if I didn't catch it.

This mod is great reading, but I am a bit obtuse when it comes to certain things (i.e. stupid), so when considering more flow in my 90g tanks, should I consider two modded 6025's? Two 6045's.

I assume you can mod the 6045's for more flow as well...

I'd appreciate any advice...