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pewter_jean
03/21/2006, 09:23 PM
I was looking for sump ideals, what I could use, Since no one around here wants to drill or cut glass. I found a rubbermaid tote, 50gal, If I remember right it is 42long, 20 across, and 16 deep. would this work, What could I use as baffles. My original ideal was to take an extra 75 gal I have and have 3 inch cut off the top. and get a hole drilled in the side. But as I stated no one around highland will touch it. If some one knows of any one close by let me know. Since I only have a 25in clearance under my tank I didn't really want to go 18 in high. No room to work.

DrBDC
03/21/2006, 09:39 PM
Maybe use a submersible pump and then you wouldn't need any holes drilled.

Kirkwood glass on Lindbergh rd (actually called Kirkwood Rd in the city of Kirkwood) drills for about 20 per hole.

Glove
03/21/2006, 09:48 PM
Buy a dremmel tool and a tile cutting bit. Get your hose out and have a go at it. I have done this over my bathtub so I didnt make a mess.
Use lots of water. wear safety glasses. Read threads about cutting glass- its EASY. The hole dont need to be "perfect" but as close as possible.

I think a 55 gallon is alittle shorter, but the same length and width, save ya from cutting 3" off the top (those are hard cuts)

trottman
03/21/2006, 10:59 PM
where did you find this rubbermaid tote!? that would be a perfect sump under my 75 gallon tank. i want one so i can up my water ammount.

fade32
03/22/2006, 12:03 AM
A 40 gallon breader works great in a 180.

pewter_jean
03/22/2006, 09:27 AM
I got the tote at Lowells in Edwardsville, It was only 16 somthing. Less that 20 after tax.. Heck, it was cheaper than a lot of the totes at that happy faced department store. I do have a 50 gal breeded, 36x18x18. Wouldn't that make for a tight work area. the inside of the tank stand is only 25, Wait, I just remeasured it, I got 28 1/2, That will work perfectly, Anyone on the Il side drill, I have a real bad problem, I'm terrified to drive in St. Louis, not to mention, I ALWAYS get lost over there. Not for this area originally.

ol'saltybastage
03/22/2006, 12:25 PM
I'm experienced in drilling. but am in st. charles.. i'd be happy to help.

pewter_jean
03/22/2006, 06:54 PM
Does anyone know if the 50 would hold all the water in case of a power outage, The 180 will hold a lot of water in the pipes and what not. I hear that when there is a powere outage, the water drains back. I was just wondering if all that extra water would end up overflowing. Yuk, what a mess.

Shooter7
03/22/2006, 07:07 PM
That's why you should be careful in setting up everything. Sump/fuge dividers not too high as to raise the water level in it closer to the top than need be. Drains installed properly. Return lines with anti-siphon holes drilled in them to reduce back siphon from there. If you watch those things, you shouldn't have a worry.

TWINPEAKS
03/22/2006, 08:07 PM
the lfs in collinsville MIDWEST MARINE will drill it.He's by SHARKY'S just off the interstate on 159.

pewter_jean
03/22/2006, 09:57 PM
Thanks, I talked to him earlier. I will probly bring the tank down this weekend. On the plumbing aspect, I want to use stand pipes(thank again Dave) So I put the tiny hole at the top. and that will help with the back siphon?

Shooter7
03/22/2006, 10:24 PM
Actually, once the water level drops below the level of the drain opening on your dursos they will stop anyway - however, I will add in here that I feel it's a good idea that your sump be able to handle the water volume of both of your overflows in case those happen to drain too. Actually, the hole I'm talking about drilling is the pipe where your water comes back into the tank. I used loc-line on mine. I drilled holes on the bottom of those just below the normal operating water line in the display. Without the holes, your tank will back-siphon all the way down to whatever depth you have your return pipe openings. With the drilled holes, it will drain down to that hole and then the siphon will be broken.