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View Full Version : Plans for my 125g


doody
11/09/2005, 08:05 PM
As some might already know, a few months ago I bought a used 125 that turned out to leak. Well, I finaly resealed it, and no more leakage. So, its time to move on to the next stage, and I thought I'd share my plans.

First, I plan on buying my dad a new dremel or rotozip for xmas. This way I can cut the tank for two external overflows to flow into a 55g sump under my tank. Kinda like in this thread...
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=444094
The return pump from this will feed two DIY eductors. Here's a link on those just in case you're wondering what they are...
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372881

Next, I'll drill the back of the thank for a closed loop system with an oceans motion unit to switch the current up. Here's a thread I have going about flow and pump questions in case you all can help...
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=704795

Then I'll build my stand. I'm gonna kinda build it like the one in this link...
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=101406&papass=&sort=1&thecat=999
The one I build will have doors where he has books. This will be to hide the external overflow.

I know it's alot of work and $$$, but I got nothing but time. Anyway, what do you all think so far? Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

deepbluesea99
11/09/2005, 09:46 PM
seems like a great build robert as im sure you know you will have to be verry carefull cutting and drilling a used tank.if i tried it it would bust on the last hole.

doody
11/09/2005, 09:50 PM
Yeah, at least its used and I did'nt pay an arm for it. That's one reason it's the first project on the list. However, this is an old 1/2" thick glass tank. From what little I know the thicker the glass, the less chance of it breaking while cutting.

doody
11/09/2005, 09:54 PM
If anything you should be my main support in this build. You know what a new tank mean$

STACKER
11/10/2005, 06:55 AM
I'd find someone with a good carbide or diamond holesaw to borrow. They might also rent 'em at one of the local equipment rental places. My 120 is only 3/8 so I opted for a HOB overflow box at 800GPH. If and when I upgrade I'll go with corner durso's and bottom drilling. I don't much care about current shift in such a small area tho, decent flow will be just fine by me. I have a CAD layout similar to the stand you pictured with a full length EZR door for access to a large skimmer on either side and electrical enclosure on the other. I kinda threw my current system together, the next will be well planned out, test fitted several times, everything detailed and dimensioned in AutoCAD, and 100% complete before any water or LR is added. Just take your time and do everything right and plan on it being permanent. Plumb in unions on all piping legs, plan on a UPS and GFI's, timing circuits, auto topoff/dosing ahead of time so you won't be kicking yourself over it later.

doody
11/10/2005, 08:30 AM
I'm thinking of the external overflow for a couple reasons. For one, it leaves more room in the tank. Two, I'm already drilling the back for a closed loop system. Why weaken the back with more drilling/cutting. I dont trust hang ons. These externals will each have two 1" stockmans in them.

By "current shift", do you mean the oceans motion unit? This 125 is 72" long, and I'm going bare bottom. So, the idea of creating good random flow helps keep detrius and other crap suspended. The eductors help hith this as well in the way they distribute the flow. Kinda like a seo. If you read the link I provided about my flow questions, you'll see that I'm debateing what size pumps to use with what (closed loop & return). I don't want to create too much flow. If anyone can help me here I'd apreciate it.

I do plan on doing something similar to what you're saying in the two side cabinats. Yes, the top half of them will hide the external overflow, but thats just up there, and those will only come out 4" at most. I'm thinking I can get my skimmer, electrical box, top off, and maybe a small Q'tank in there.

I through my current system together in a rush as well. I'm gonna take my time with this one. My current system keeps me satisfied till I get this one up.

STACKER
11/10/2005, 08:43 AM
Closed loop, bare bottom and eductors huh? How much are you fabricating compared to purchasing? I can help out with some precision machining, fitting, and sub assembly when you get ready. Just let me know. I still have nearly a pint of weldon left too!

STACKER
11/10/2005, 08:47 AM
BTW, I plan to redo all of my plumbing including externalizing my skimmer so I have more sump/fuge room under the tank. Maybe I'll even finish the stand finally.... or not! As long as the critters are healthy I'm not too worried about asthetics.

doody
11/10/2005, 08:59 AM
Let me know if you need help, as I know that I'm gonne need some help whith mine.
I'm not sure what you mean by the above statement. Whats there to make with with closesd loop? Maybe the current switching device, but thats way outta my ballpark. I'll just bust my *** for the cash to buy an OM 4way or something. As far as barebottom does, there's nothing to fab there either. Well, I gott cut my stareboard, and make racks for the LR, but I can have my 6yr old nephew do that. I'll diy the eductors, but again, I can handle that stuff.

doody
11/10/2005, 09:02 AM
BTW, I don't think you have a prob with asthetics. Well, you might wanna tuck your shirt in and tie your shoes now and then, but over all you ain't too shaby.
OHH, you meant the tank? Not too bad there either.

STACKER
11/10/2005, 02:00 PM
It's all designed to blow our minds...
But our mind's already been blown...

I didn't know if you were gonna fab most or buy commerial stuff. I've found that some commerial stuff is impossible to replicate well for the $$ but some is just cheap Chinese scrap better made DIY and mush better appreciated when it works properly.

My first project is to plump and refill the Nano, then rethink the 120 and make some changes to firm up it's function and gain the room I need for my current;y rigged auto-topoff. so little time , so little $$$

doody
11/10/2005, 02:19 PM
I'm gonna try to diy anything I can as I'm not rich yet. If it seems to rough or just too much work it might be better to pay a few extra bucks. I'll play it as it goes.

I know what you mean about time and $$$. I swear i work just to get out of the house and for my tank. All the $$$$ is just blown on stupid crap I don't need.

STACKER
11/14/2005, 07:12 AM
Welcome to my world!

doody
12/30/2005, 03:50 PM
I'm starting to make progress.
Got three penductors.
Plans to cut and drill the tank are in the works. I'll try to get pics of that project posted when we do it.
Just got my starboard in the mail this week. I got a good deal on buying more than I needed. So if anyone wants some let me know.

doody
12/30/2005, 04:19 PM
I'm thinking of getting two long strips of glass like 1" wide to glue to the inside of the front and back panal of the tank. I'm thinking of doing this because I dont have a centerbrace on this tank and I'll be drilling the back panal for a CL system. I did'nt notice any bowing when I had it filled with water for the leak test, but better safe than sorry. What thickness glass should I use. I priced out 1/4" glass @ 1"x72" and it was like $5 at youngstown mirror and glass, but not sure if 1/4" is good enough. Got tips?

STACKER
12/31/2005, 11:09 AM
Use polycarbonate, it's stronger, won.t shatter if you whack it, and you can attach mounts to it so it's more secure on the tank than glass.

doody
12/31/2005, 12:15 PM
Ok man, what's polycarbonate, and how do you use it?

STACKER
01/02/2006, 06:24 AM
Lexan, what some folks call Acrylic, and really uninformed people call plexiglas. There is polycarbonate, polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene and polyethylene and all are clear plastic with differing properties. Polycarbonate is what is referred to as "bullet proof" and I use it for making machine guarding and such. Can be bent, machines, sawcut, drilled and tapped, sanded, and beat with a hammer. I have quite a bit of leftovers and scrap in the shop.

doody
01/03/2006, 06:07 PM
Ok, but how do you mount this stuff?
Got enough extra to do 72" x 1" / L x W strips?

STACKER
01/04/2006, 06:43 AM
Screw it, glue it, silicone it, clamp it. I don't have anything over 48" at this time.

doody
01/04/2006, 01:52 PM
Can you get it and how many $$$.
$$$ matters man

STACKER
01/04/2006, 04:03 PM
I can get it, I need to know how many pcs., how wide, how long, and how thick. Then I can find out what it costs. We could always piece a couple 36" pcs. together too. I need details man...details :)

doody
01/04/2006, 04:50 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6414678#post6414678 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by doody
Ok, but how do you mount this stuff?
Got enough extra to do 72" x 1" / L x W strips?

Two strips. One on each panal. Not sure how thick. I don't know what's needed.
I'm not sure piecing them together would work or not. But what do I know.

STACKER
01/05/2006, 06:35 AM
Well you can't spell panel so you tell me.. LOLOLOL

doody
01/05/2006, 12:59 PM
Yeah, that's why I have a spell checker at work. When I bring the tank to the shop to get chopped up we'll look at it to see whats best.

STACKER
01/05/2006, 02:40 PM
Sounds like a plan.