Tank of the Month - Mar 2002 [Archive] - Reef Central Online Community Archives

Purple Reef

03/05/2002, 12:51 PM

I cant find the correct words to describe how impressed I am.:D

To me the organization and cleanliness of the filtration system is as important as the inhabitants in the tank. My 75gl. custom made acrylic is 1.5 yrs old and that has always been me focus , to have every thing look as natural, organized and presentable as possible. There are some great reeferes out there with great health in there tanks but looking more like a science project than a piece of ocean in there house...that IS NOT the case with this tank!! Very impressive my friend..:beer:

If you don't mind, How much $$ is there so far??

Any tips or advise on how to help our tanks look and progress at the pass your has...(1 year amazing...):D

Congrats...

aaronk

03/05/2002, 01:10 PM

HA! I have the same image on my desktop stilll!
Amazing is right!!!
truely a slice of reef

TinyBubbles

03/05/2002, 02:21 PM

I hope someone is behind me, because I think I might just pass out.
Incredible tank :eek2: :eek1: :eek2: Congratulations!

Tiny

(thanks for the new desktop wallpaper :D)

djbravoleader

03/05/2002, 02:23 PM

Best setup I have ever seen!! I love how everything is so clean and neat . Absolutely the best looking thing around. Good job!!

Pomacanthus1

03/05/2002, 04:56 PM

Awesome tank! My mouth is watering..................That blue carpet is an awesome centerpiece!

I can't imagine how much time, effort, and money you've put into that masterpiece of reefing:thumbsup:

Ice Cream

03/05/2002, 06:52 PM

Steve,
I can only imagine how beautiful your aquarium must be when seen in person. Congratulations for a well-deserved honor.
JB

NanoReefer53

03/05/2002, 08:26 PM

*drooooool*

bowfront

03/05/2002, 11:06 PM

Looks like the epitome of this hobby to date. Wallow in the praise because you deserve it all. Best of luck in the future.

rbonin

03/06/2002, 09:43 AM

This is the most amazing tank I have ever seen. Given how much money I have spent on my feeble attempt at a reef tank, I cannot imaging what this one has cost! But I know it will be worth it.

ReefDiver

03/06/2002, 10:08 AM

Steve: Truly an "AWESOME REEF TANK" , to say the very least!! I think that my chin hit my desk when I first glanced at this amazing slice of reef!! :thumbsup: This has to be one of the best looking and thought out systems that I have ever seen! You certainly deserve all of the compliments and more.

I have a similar setup but NOT to that scale. I built in a 155 Gal Bowfront reef tank when we put an addition onto our house two years ago. Therefore, I for one can truly appreciate what you have put together!! :spin3:

I do have a question: How long have you been keeping the Gonipora and how has it held up? Also, have you ever tried an Elegance Coral? I know that these two species do not do well in closed systems and are better left on the reef!

Anyway, keep up the excellent work and best of luck with the tank!

Steve L :D

steveweast

03/06/2002, 10:26 AM

First of all, to reefdiver and everyone else here on RC, thank you for the kind words. I have 3 goniporas and 1 alveapora in the display. The purple gonipora in the lower left side of the tank has been with me since mid summer (maybe June of 2001). When I first got it, it had a quarter size shipping damage spot on it; that has since long healed over. The coral (which seems more of an encrusting type) has now grown over the rock that it came on and has started to spread over the live rock. The most impressive growth has come from my alvepora, which has more than tripled in size.I had to move it to its current location on the left side to give it more room. It's not the most colorful ( a semi-bright green), but it has a great shape. It continues to grow outward in big knob-like growths. The system is now 1 year old and I'm aware that these corals have the reputation of doing well for a year or two and then failing;so, I can only keep my fingers crossed. Thanks to all...Steve

jobmw

03/08/2002, 01:09 AM

:thumbsup: Steve, if someone was to ask me how I would like either one of my tanks to end up looking like - your tank would be my words. I cannot tell you how envious I am of what you have accomplished. I have a 300 gal (2 years) and a new 40 gal acrylic tanks and I have never been more frustrated in my life. How, How did you learn to do this? I know it didn't happen over night. I can appreciate the work and time spent for this worth while end results. But how did you know how to do this. I read, research and even had some "suppose to be an expert" come to my house to look at my tank - and still feel worse than ever. I refuse to give up. Our tank like yours, is in our wall like a picture (a picture you would want to throw out) with the rest on a platform since our garage is lower than our rec. room. So tell, me how did you learn to create this? I would love to pick your brains. Thank you for sharing.

steveweast

03/08/2002, 09:31 AM

jobmw, I had a 125 gal "reef" tank back in 1985. Before I set this tank up , I tried to remember all the problems that I had back then and correct them. If you have a more specific problem, maybe I could help.
Steve

matt_rogers

03/12/2002, 03:31 PM

This should be tank of the year.

My jaw is on the ground!

Congratulations. Enjoy.

:cool: :cool: :cool:

boots

03/13/2002, 02:25 AM

Hey MR. Weast, I just wanted to say WOW what a AWESOME REEF TANK, I myslef am setting up a (minny me) tank 265 gallons
my third tank, 90 - 180 my first two.
but I was curious on the POWER HEAD TOWER if you could give me a little more detail on that I would love to try and incorparate one into my new tank.

THANKS ......Boots

steveweast

03/13/2002, 10:11 AM

Boots, each tower is made from 1/2 pvc and is sized to hold 3 Tunze3000 powerheads. Each powerhead sits on (2) 4 inch square pieces of eggcrate. The two pieces are used to create a screen for the powerhead intake. This design works well for the Tunze powerheads since their intake is on the bottom of the powerhead. Other types of powerheads would require a design change. The wires come out of the tank and terminate in a waterproof junction box( located on top of the tank) in which they are hard wired.Each tower is hidden behind the rockwork, but not buried under the rockwork. I just have to remove a few small rocks when I want to lift the entire powerhead tower from the tank for servicing (which I did this last weekend ). Each powerhead has a short outflow extention that comes out through the rockwork ( or under/behind the rockwork ). It's a pretty simple arrangement that keeps the powerheads accessible yet still hidden.

dgosho

03/13/2002, 01:04 PM

Your tank is amazing! The entire setup is incredibly well-designed.
My only question (for now) is how do you clean the front?

steveweast

03/13/2002, 04:38 PM

Dgosho, I use a Magnavore 10 magnet.

dgosho

03/13/2002, 05:28 PM

Oh! cool.... but what i meant was how do you get to it? its 8 feet off the ground right? and covered by lighting equipment.

steveweast

03/13/2002, 10:37 PM

Dgosho,If you look at a photo of the rear setup, you'll notice that the entire light hood is on a rail system. The light hood can be pushed from one side to the other with ease. You'll also see that there is a platform on the right side of the tank that is 4 foot square that I can get up to with an eight foot ladder. When I'm up there, it's no different than if the tank were on the floor (ie. really easy to bend over the tank and access everything). The other side of the tank also has a platform, but not as wide ( maybe a foot );but, it's plenty wide enough for access (especially with my ladder next to it ). It's the rail system that really makes the system work.Being able to push aside the entire hood, a foot or the entire 6 feet, makes this more accessible than just about any tank I've seen. Steve

boots

03/14/2002, 12:08 AM

Mr. Weast, sorry to bother you again but I was wondering do you have some type of diagrame or picture that you could show me of the power head tower's that you've built?

THANKS.......Boots

massman

03/19/2002, 03:25 AM

steve,
a very impressive tank indeed. well done.
a couple of quick questions if i may.
how have you arranged your lighting in the hood, and how high off the surface?
what is your photoperiod?
which type of 10000k lamp are you presently using?

thanks
marc

LFSguy

03/19/2002, 04:09 AM

Quote:

"I believe the current mix will one day turn into a remarkable, natural looking display."

Hahaha! Dont wory Steve...one day that aquarium will be remarkable and beautiful! :D

steveweast

03/19/2002, 09:57 AM

Massman; The hood width is four feet;so, there's lots of room for bulbs and fans. The metal halides are arranged in two rows running the length of the tank, with each row running about 8 inches off the center line.The VHO's are then running two bulbs (side by side) in the slots not occupied by the halides, two bulbs in the front, two bulbs in the middle, and two bulbs in the rear. The first of the VHO's come on @ 7:30AM and go off @ 8:30PM. The first of the halides goes on @ 8:30AM (with all 8 being on by 10:00AM) and go off by 6:00PM. The hood is about 6-8 inches from the water surface. The halides are 10K German 400W from Hamilton.

Steve

Purple Reef

03/19/2002, 10:04 AM

Steve

:D :D It is obvious that you have many new fans (including myself). Goes without saying that , as said before, your work has inspired everyone. Could you post additional pics of your tank?:) Specially pics of the design and "back stage" set up of the tank. We are very curious about the power head towers, how you are holding the LR towers together, How you manage to hide the power head cables, etc..........

My friend let me just say that if you ever set up your own web page, the traffic would be impressive....:dance: :fish2:

steveweast

03/19/2002, 06:22 PM

Purple reef; Last weekend I had my powerhead towers out for cleaning and I cleaned the rear panel a little bit; so, attached is a little better picture of one of them. The towers and the platform that elevate the live rock is just constructed from 1/2 inch pvc. I use eggcrate for a platform; and it's all attached with plastic zip ties. The powerhead towers also use the eggcrate for a supporting platform, except in this case, I used 3 layers of eggcrate to make a cage around the intake. It also is held together with platic zip ties. The powerheads themselves are held in place with the zip ties too. The wires are real easy to hide. The wires from the left side of the tank come together and leave the tank and enter a waterproof junction box ( in which they are hard wired ) mounted on top of the tank. The same thing happens on the right side through a second junction box. Rockwork that goes above waterline can hide a whole bunch of things. Steve

jobmw

03/19/2002, 10:54 PM

Just wanted to thank you Steve for you wonderful help! Because of your guidence, I do believe that I will be able to create a "reef" tank. We start production on it this weekend, starting with taking the scratches out of the front and then removing the dsl rolls (all 12),cleaning and raising the bio balls, draining water, cleaning sand. Oh speaking of sand, I noticed I have quite a few bristle worms, and I hear pro and cons about them. Any suggestions or thoughts about bristol worms you would like to share? We have an Ro/DI arriving, a huge protein skimmer, more powerful pumps and that's just to start. Oh, and Metal Halides - either 2x240w or 3x 175w...pendants. Not sure which would be better. Have to Smartlite's as well (48' 96w bulbs)

jobmw

03/19/2002, 10:58 PM

Just wanted to thank you Steve for you wonderful help! Because of your guidance, I do believe that I will be able to create a "reef" tank. We start production on it this weekend, starting with taking the scratches out of the front (using scratch removing magnets I found on the internet as well as algae remover magnets - remember, this is an acrylic tank) and then removing the dsl rolls (all 12),cleaning and raising the bio balls, draining water, cleaning sand. Oh speaking of sand, I noticed I have quite a few bristle worms, and I hear pro and cons about them. Any suggestions or thoughts about bristle worms you would like to share? We have an Ro/DI arriving, a huge protein skimmer, more powerful pumps and that's just to start. Oh, and Metal Halides - either 2x240w or 3x 175w...pendants. Not sure which would be better. Have to Smartlite's as well (48' 96w bulbs)For once, I have hope with this 300 gal tank and I owe it to you! Thanks for sharing!!

steveweast

03/19/2002, 11:55 PM

Jo; did you decide to completely break down the psuedo-fish only tank ? did you remove all live stock? if not, don't remove that dls- it's your only biological filtration. Small bristle worms are just fine. It's only the huge ones that can be a problem in a reef. I don't see why you would want to wash the sand ( unless you were going to shut down and mothball the tank for awhile). The existing sand would give you a head start in creating your new reef. You might want to private message me and let me know what you have planned. Oh, and did you get those reference books that are indisensible in creating your reef goal?

Steve

Purple Reef

03/20/2002, 08:41 AM

Hey Steve

Thank for the pics of the power heads. Very ingenues design. I currently own a 75 gl. custom made acrylic tank(30" H x 30" L to R x 18" F to B) 1.5 years old, strange dimensions but they do make for an elegant tank, specially with the canopy and stand all in black gloss Formica all together to a height of 7". :cool: :D My biggest hassle is the cleaning of the tank without scratching the panels:eek1: :mad: I use the tools designed for acrylic tanks such as the plastic spatula and the sponges (never an old credit card like some I know:) ) but every 3 months I have to invest HOURS is buffing the inside of the tank with a scratch removal kit. Is this some thing you go through too?? I use a floating magnet with a piece of material on the inside to try keeping clean the inside during the week without scratching it, that seems to work fine but the actual cleaning of coraline algae without putting lines on the panels, man what a battle.:confused:

I have a 26" tower of LR in the very middle of the tank, covering the over flow, but 2 tubes of epoxy had to come into play to keep those things from falling (which the first 6 months it did several times!). Which I had more than 18" forward to make something similar to your tank with PVC and egg crate, some thing like a stand system. Do you use additives to help your corals do so good? Other than you calcium reactor. I use ESV B-Ionic on a daily basis.

Like I said before my friend if you ever set up a page show casing your construction pics and behind the seen it would make for an interesting site....:cool:

Later

steveweast

03/20/2002, 09:32 AM

Purple Reef; I too use a magnet for cleaning the inside panel. As for buffing the inside panel... been there..done that. I now try to clean the panel at least once a week ..if not more. This seems to not allow the coralline a chance to grow. I also keep my sand depth right at the front panel to zero..and then slope back from there. This helps keep sand particles from scratching the panel when cleaning.As for additives... only Iodine.. because of heavy skimming and heavy carbon use. Steve

Auchinek

03/20/2002, 09:04 PM

Wow!!

I don't quite know what to say...I am in awe..if i could do but 10% of what you have done...

I am, however, planning on putting in a large tank when i build my next house, room behind to be a small laboratory for the myriad of things that go with it. Though, seeing what you have done, perhaps there is no need for the 'room' as i had originally considered.

Auch.

Purple Reef

03/21/2002, 08:18 AM

Steve;

If you don't mind, what kit do you use as a acrylic scratch remover and how do you buff it out?. I personally use Rainbow scratch remover (sheets are 3"x3") and apply it with the cleaning magnet, changing the levels of sand paper as I go. But man does this take time and effort!!!:eek1: :eek2: I need to find a tool (magnet) I can attach to my power drip!

Another thing, do you keep a power generator for black outs.? Living in South FL I should have gotten one some time back (haven't needed it so far) but hurricanes are a possibility. I considering a Honda or Mitsubishi model that putts out 1100 watts and is silent and the size of a bag($500 + or-).

Thank Steve.:beer:

Purple Reef

03/21/2002, 08:20 AM

Sorry ;

..........attach to my power drill (not drip...:D ).

Reefer_in_mass

03/21/2002, 09:33 AM

Boy do i wish I could have a tank like that one!!!!
you need alot of money to get there....and if I had it....I would do the same thing!!!!!

3 skimmers!!!!! WOW!!!!!!

Great tank!!! Keep up the good work!!!!! :beer:

steveweast

03/21/2002, 09:57 AM

Purple reef; I'm on the same scratch removal system as you are...mulit -grade sheets of wet/dry sandpaper. Yes, it does take alot of work. I use the Magnavore 10 magnets which have a pretty strong grip;so, it's not too bad to remove micro scratches..but, it still blows an afternoon. Power outages here are rare and usually short lived; but, I also have portable generators ( that I use for construction) available if needed.

Flyboy

03/21/2002, 10:04 AM

Great Tank Steve, do you have a web site that we can follow your tank progressin at?

Codiene53

03/21/2002, 01:48 PM

Very Beautiful Tank!!!
How do you clean the front ? Do you(or maybe your wife) have to get in the tank? How do you re-arrange the corals if needed?

steveweast

03/21/2002, 11:25 PM

Flyboy; I'm sorry to say not yet..but maybe soon.

Codiene53; You'll notice in the photos that the light hood is on a rail system and can be slid completely out of the way for easy access. Cleaning magnets help keep the front panel clean.

Kevin Gougherty

03/21/2002, 11:59 PM

Steve your tank is a work of art. I'm about to embark on my 1st attempt and I have loads of questions.

You say you suspend your LR 4 inches above sand so power head can move matter from under. What did you use as a superstructure support system., PVC, cement...

Does you tank represent a deep water reef. I want to design a Ino-Pacific Deef Water Reef. I see your temps are about mid 70's. So I suspect a chiller is mandatory?

I'd appreciate you response. Again wonderful job. I love it. The color scheme is so much like what I want to achieve. I scuba dive and your reef scape depicts deep water so wonderfully.

ReefEnvy

03/22/2002, 12:19 AM

Steve!!! Even the equipment room is a work of art!!!! However long it took you, however much it cost you, it had to be worth every bit!!!! The end result is absolutely AMAZING!!!!!

One thought comes to mind though, knowing how myself and quite a few other Reef keepers are never quite satisfied, where do you go from there?!?!?!? What's your next upgrade going to be?!?!?!? Or has the significant other hidden all your tools?

steveweast

03/22/2002, 12:23 AM

Kevin; the liverock sits on a platform ( about 4 inches above the sand ). The platform frame is constructed from 1/2 PVC with a piece of eggcrate on top. I didn't even glue the frame together..just pressed fitted together in case I wanted to modify it later. All the rock is on the platform except a row of rocks in front to hide the frame. The current ( and any debris ) comes through gaps in the rockwork.
I keep my temperature setpoint at 77.5. This means that my heater prevents the temperature from falling below 77.0 and the 3/4hp chiller prevents the temperature from getting above 78.0.
I know alot people keep higher temperatures; but, I've had good results with a lower temp. I wouldn't say that I'm trying for a deep water reef; at least not with 4200 watts of light. The tank,however, is deep;and as a result, the bottom of the tank can support lower light requirement inhabitants while the top can support shallow reef stock like SPS. So, I guess the tank would represent both shallow and mid-water habitats....in winter.

steveweast

03/22/2002, 12:29 AM

Reef Envy; where to go from here?.... this 500 gal tank should make for adaquate sump one day;)

ReefEnvy

03/22/2002, 12:34 AM

Up until now, I've been quite pleased with my DIY ability, and how my tank has matured. Just finished looking at all your pics, including the impressively simple "Power Head Tower"..........

Now, I feel like a color blind three year old with a box of crayons standing beside Leanardo Da Vinci as he paints the ceiling of the chapel!!! Gee thanks Steve!!!!!

attaboy

03/23/2002, 02:19 AM

Wow! I was stunned when I saw you tank.. not only because of the beautiful inhabitants but beacause of the amazing setup! Did you do that all yourself or was a LFS responsible? Looks like maintenance is much easier when everything is nice and tidy. I also noticed that we both live in Portland... you'll have to let us fellow Oregon reefheads know when the first tour will be!!!!!

steveweast

03/23/2002, 11:53 AM

Patrick; No local fish store played any role in the design or setup of my system. I did ,however, arrange for the acylic tank through Upscales. Visitors are always welcome. I like looking at other reefer's systems just like everyone else. Thanks for comments...Steve

buynovsky

03/25/2002, 07:58 PM

Steve, totally awesome tank.... Way too much to say in words. The best tank I've ever seen.

ONE QUESTION.

You've seem to take careful logs of everying in an out of your tank.

Have you ever put a dollar figure on the the cost. I would be interested in that.

I would guess $15-20,000.

????????????

steveweast

03/25/2002, 10:20 PM

And you would be right...$15K.

buynovsky

03/26/2002, 12:43 AM

Steve, is that just for tank and equipment, plumbing and set up? Does that include corals? How much to you have invested in rock, corals and fish....

Thanks...

Just trying to figure out if I hit the lottery, how much I should set aside for a tank like that one....

steveweast

03/26/2002, 01:14 AM

I stopped cost tracking after the tank cycled. So, the $15K includes all setup and all liverock,but no livestock. I have no idea what I have in livestock....Steve

iceman716238

03/26/2002, 09:56 PM

First of all your carpet is stunning. Why do so many people say it is so hard to keep and yours is doing so well? How old is yours? Please give me any info on how i can keep one like lighting, water parameters, feeding, and anything helpful thanks.

steveweast

03/26/2002, 11:15 PM

Iceman; I agree with many of those that say carpets are difficult. I would say that mine is an exception to the rule;that said, you will find many other examples of carpets here on RC that are doing just fine, so they're not impossible. I've had my carpet since June and I do feed him frequently..about every three days with a large scallop or two large silversides. My water parameters and lighting are pretty much detailed in the text;however, I'm not sure what to attribute my success to. Maybe it was properly collected,or maybe it's the water parameters,lighting, or feedings.....or maybe just luck...I wish I knew....Steve

BonsaiNut

03/28/2002, 07:41 PM

I've got only one question -

Do you have a higher resolution photo so I could use it for my desktop? I'm using the one from the site, but it is a little pixelated when stretched to 1024 x 768...

iceman716238

03/28/2002, 09:32 PM

Steve and anyone else,I have a 75gal 21"deep tank. I want a mixed reef with fish, soft and sps, and a clam. FFE and WetWebMedia told me 250watt metal halides will burn and bleach soft corals and to go with 2 175watts.So should i go with the ushio or AB? Is a AB hood of good quality or is there something that you recommed like the custom sealife or other? Does the AB hood come with the ballast? I think i seen that AB doesn't make 175watt bulbs. Wtih the ballasts, if the ballast is rated for 250watt bulbs can i use 175watt bulbs on it? Do I need vho as a supplement or is the halides more than enough?I need to know the exact specifics because this is my first time and i do not want to mess up. Please give me more specific and detailed answers. Thank you greatly.

deukmedjian

04/01/2002, 12:53 PM

Steve,
Nice work.
I am curious about your phosphate levels. Besides skimming and the refugium are you doing anything else to eliminate the phosphates from the system?

steveweast

04/01/2002, 04:15 PM

In my sump baffle, I use carbon plus Marc Weiss's Phosphate remover.

dollarz81

04/02/2002, 08:59 PM

EVERYONE WANTS TO KNOW..............how much did this set up cost?$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Auchinek

04/02/2002, 09:06 PM

read up a bit...that was posted

Auch.

JazzMan

04/02/2002, 09:13 PM

This is by far the nicest reef tank I have ever seen.

deukmedjian

04/03/2002, 09:16 AM

Iceman,
The 250W MH are OK for your setup. As a matter of fact, I would recommend them over the 175W. As far as bulbs go, I recommend the 10,000K Ushios with the mogule base. Use the 250W Blueline electronic ballast from Champion to run the MHs. I would also get a 440W VHO electronic ballast from Hellolights at http://www.hellolights.com/elbalkit.html
They have the best prices on the VHO setups. They make their own VHO ballast. It comes prewired with up to 4 sets of endcaps on the harness. Very easy to use. Its warrantied for 2 years and will cost you almost $100 less than an Icecap setup from Champion. I do recommend Champion for thr MH setup. Use URI VHO bulbs. They have an internal reflector.
No you can't run a 175W MH bulb on a 250W ballast. The ballast should always match the bulb wattage.

You will need to install some cooling fans in the hood if you go with the retrofit kit w/ 250W MH. I recommend the fans from all electronics
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=220&type=store
They have the best prices. Check the decible reting on the fan before you buy it. Probably want < 40 DB. And you will want > 80 cfm. Might get away with one but probably need x2 fans.Be prepared for higher evaporative losses with fans.
Use w/ caution. I'd be more than willing to help answer more Qs.
:)

Kevin Gougherty

04/06/2002, 07:07 PM

Hello Steve,

In looking at your implamentation of water flow, I see you put power heads inside of your LR structures. Can I ask how you were able to hide camoflage the power cords. Did you have your tank drilled for them?

Also, I am so intrigued by the types of coral you display. I'm trying to run down the list you posted and look the species up on various sources. Nothing I've seen comes close to how healthy and vibrant your collection is.

iceman716238

04/06/2002, 07:57 PM

deukmedjian:
I changed my lighting plans since then due to many reefers on this site telling me to go with HQI DE bulbs. They say to go with the 150watt HQI because it has more power than 250watt with a mogul socket. Do you agree that this is better for my setup than the 250mogul? They say that it is perfect for sps, clams, softies,and the anemone that i want. Can i hear your opinion.

steveweast

04/06/2002, 11:43 PM

Kevin, In a few places in the aquascaping, the rockwork breaks the surface. I use these locations to hide the powerhead wires behind. The wires then leave the top of the tank through a small hole drilled in the acylic. As for the corals, I usually don't buy on impulse or online. I like to see what I'm getting. I'm fortunate to have several good LFS's in my area. All my stock has come from local sources. I just regularly track the new, incoming stocks and wait for the right piece for the right location.

deukmedjian

04/07/2002, 02:58 PM

Iceman,
No doubt the double ended HQIs are a good bulb. I would still recommend against them though for several reasons.
1. Their UV output is much higher than any other bulb. Hence you will need to use some sort of UV shielding between the bulb and your corals. This may consist of either 1/4 inch-1/16 plexiglass or tempered glass. Either one will cut down on the PPFD your corals will receive. With most other bulbs you do not need to use the UV screen and thus no reduction in PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density, also see PAR) so in practice the single ended bulbs will actually provide your corals with more light intensity and less harmful UV radiation.
Secondly, buying the double ended setup will limit you in the future to the use of only one bulb, the double-ended HQI. By using a mogule based system and an electronic ballast (blueline) you are free to use any single ended bulb on the marked. So you will be able to experiment with different bulbs if you want. The double ended HQI will most likely soon go the way of the "dodo" in this hobby.
Another consideration is the heat generated by your ballast. The newer 250W electronic ballasts do not produce any appreciable heat and will not heat up your room. This is in my opinion a huge advantage over the standard ballasts which produce enough heat while powered on to burn your fingers. I own x3 250W MH electronic blueline ballasts from Champion. They are awesome. There is no bulb flicker. They always fire up quickly and they produce NO heat.
I currently have x3 250W 10000K Ushio bulbs and x4 160W VHO super actinics running over my 180 reef and the coral health and color is spectacular. With my 5" DSB the 250Wers are plenty enough for the corals and clams. You could go with 400Wers but I think its overkill for a tank your size. Just be prepared to deal with the heat issue. And then the evaporative losses. Happy reefing:)

BonsaiNut

01/22/2003, 03:20 PM

Would love to see any new shots of this reef after it has matured now for a year :)

steveweast

01/22/2003, 06:25 PM

Here's what it looks like now:

MrSandman

01/22/2003, 09:12 PM

The more i look at this tank, the more i realize how difficult it must have been to put something like this together. Its truly a reefers masterpiece and a work of art!

So, in the last year or so...have you changed out/upgraded any pieces of equipment? Have any of your ampmaster pumps sprung a leak or seized yet? Have you replaced the MH lamps? Are you still running the same ballasts, etc?

steveweast

01/22/2003, 09:31 PM

Changes...yep, there has been a few:

1) Eliminated all powerheads and replaced them with a closed loop system utilizing (4) ampmaster 3000's. This brings my circulation up to 15,000 GPH....and more importantly, minimal or no maintenace.

2) replaced M59 PFO ballasts with Sunlight's pulse start ballasts...this seems to have increased the light intensity about 20%.

3) now running (4) 400watt 10K plus (4) 400watt 20K and (6) 165watt actinic VHO.

4) I've gotten really good at replacing ampmaster seals..but, never on the same pump twice.

That's about it for changes......other than I add no additives and all four of my gonioporas are still going strong as they approach the two year mark.

BonsaiNut

01/23/2003, 01:04 AM

Such a great reef. I really love the depth of view. The blue carpet gives me chills - I am an anemone nut. Time to start fragging some of your corals :)

BTW - are your clownfish spawning?

Danables

01/23/2003, 05:40 AM

Thanks steve for inspiring me to build my tank! I saw your tank on RR in march and i was like "I want to build a tank like that!" So I cut a hole in the wall and in june it was done.

Thanks for the inspriation
Dan

Cap'nPete

02/01/2003, 07:11 PM

Steve,
I'm sure you don't need any more compliments, but man that is gorgeous! Thanks for sharing.

RalphP

02/01/2003, 09:09 PM

Hello
The tank is just stunning,one question how do you keep the sand so clean?
Thanks

steveweast

02/01/2003, 09:38 PM

I do not rely on a DSB for nitrate reduction...I rely on live rock and protein skimming; therefore, the sand bed is only 1-3 inches deep which I vacuum and turn frequently. I also keep the sand bed depth at the front panel as low as possible to ease the cleaning of the front panel.

almostdiva

03/17/2003, 05:27 PM

I see you keep a solorensis boxfish from your fish list! I LOVE them. And I'm looking for one -- did you get yours online or at an LFS? Has it gone after anything it's not supposed to???

FABULOUS TANK! All those rose anemones are gorgeous....

steveweast

03/17/2003, 07:08 PM

Thanks for the kind words. The boxfish is doing well; however, I keep him in the refugium now...I'm afraid my blue carpet aneome might get him. He came from a LFS.

Brian O'T.

03/20/2003, 02:45 PM

Ok

Its a reasnobly OK Tank.

Spot the mistruth above. Beautifull Steve ( Not u the tank :D )

Question: Do the Anemonoes wander at all ?

Thanks

Brian

steveweast

03/20/2003, 07:04 PM

Brian, the blue carpet never moves; but, the Rose aneomes move whenever they split. I have to watch them carefully and usually remove them when they split to keep their numbers to 6 or 8 in the tank at any one time.

minfinger

03/22/2003, 09:13 AM

Steve,

I love your tank and I pray for you to get a bigger back room ;)

I have one question. What kind of fish is this? I realyl want one of these in my 55! It's gorgeous.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-03/totm/images/Peppermint-Hogfish.jpg

steveweast

03/22/2003, 10:36 AM

I don't know if I can help you with the ID. It's certainly in the wrasse family...and my guess would be a Peppermint Hog. It's a great looking fish.

Buk_A_neer

04/06/2003, 12:00 AM

Originally posted by steveweast
Changes...yep, there has been a few:

1) Eliminated all powerheads and replaced them with a closed loop system utilizing (4) ampmaster 3000's. This brings my circulation up to 15,000 GPH....and more importantly, minimal or no maintenace.

Hi Steve ... awesome tank ! ... quick question/suggestion ... you said you did away with the powerhead towers and replaced with closed loop ... did you have to replumb or do you have pictures of how you did it ?

I have a 8L x 2 W x 3 T ( about 300 gallons ) built into the wall and am struggling with figuring out how to get proper circulation ...

when I first read the write up on your tank I thought the powerhead tower would be cool and then I tried using one of my Mag18's that I use for my dual Beckett skimmer and make a tower with (4) 1/2" outputs to provide circulation ...

it worked but the noise from the Mag18 was driving me nuts so I took it out ( I currently only hear a slight gurgle from my overflow so my tank is pretty quiet but the only circulation right now is the return from my sump via a LG 5MDQXSC about midway in the tank opposite the overflow ) all pumps are behind the wall

Any suggestions ( I hope ) ?

Cheers

Steve

steveweast

04/06/2003, 11:03 AM

Rasta: I completely understand when you say that noise abatement is a priority....mags are noisy pumps that also have high heat transfer rates. I switched to a closed loop for reduced maintenance reasons.....the Tunze powerheads that I were using were quiet..but still required regular cleaning. My closed loop requires no such cleaning. I don't have any pics...but, it's pretty simple and it required no drilling or even stopping the main pump to accomplish it. Here's a quick breakdown:

1) The closed loop external pump (in my case) is located behind the tank.
2) The pvc pipes (1 1/2") going into/from the tank go over the rim of the tank.
3) I built a cage (about 6" X 4" and about 24" tall) out of 1/2" pvc and eggcrate.
4) The intake and out flow pipes go into this cage. The intake just terminates a few inches inside of the cage. The out flow continues to the bottom and is manifolded using 3/4' nipples that stick out of the cage wall.
5) I lowered the cage assembly along the back of the tank and connected flexible hose to those nipples sticking out of the cage and distributed them throughout the rockwork.My aquascaping has rocks that break the surface and completely hide the two pvc pipes that enter/leave the tank.
6) You will have to prime the pipes before turning on the pump.This is done by having a "T" in the intake pipe just before it enters the water with a removable plug in it. You can fill both of the pipes through this access.
7)Turn on the pump...you should never have to prime the pump again even in a power failure as long both pipe ends stay below your lowest water level in your tank (ie below your over flow grille or the lowest point when you do a water change).Remember to have ball valves and unions right by the pump in case you need to remove the pump for maintenance.

The cage in my system acts as a screen to keep from sucking up creatures without having something to clean ..like a sponge.

Buk_A_neer

04/07/2003, 02:29 PM

Thanks for the reply Steve ... that sounds like you have all the circulation you will ever need ( in that tank anyway ;) )

I tried your suggestion using my Mag18 outside and that made a HUGE difference ( almost undetectable ) ... trick now is to find the right pump for the job ... Thanks for your help

Cheers

Steve

Buk_A_neer

04/07/2003, 09:33 PM

Hey Steve ... I found your next tank and he is willing to trade straight across for yours !

http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24702

markmcc

05/01/2003, 11:44 AM

Steve,
Are you happy with the way the Ampmaster 3000s run your skimmers? I hear that they are not pressure rated and are better left to running circulation loops. The reason i ask is because I'm in the market for a pump to run a dual beckett injector type skimmer. i have the iwaki 100 in mind but would love to use something a little quieter like the am3K or maybe even a higher rated dolphin pump. What are your recommendations? Its for a new 600 gallon partial sps tank that I'm setting up.

Thanks again,
Mark

steveweast

05/01/2003, 06:25 PM

Mark, for the past three months, I have using Dolphin 4700's to power my skimmers...one 4700 for two PM bullet 3's. The amp3000's powered the skimmers adequately; but, the 4700's really power the skimmers to the point that I have to dial back the air intake quite a bit. The skimmate volume has also increased. Bottom line....amp3000's..OK....4700's...perfect.

markmcc

05/02/2003, 07:06 AM

Steve, are the 4700s as silent as the 3000s? Sorry to keep bothering you but I really like the dolphin pumps and would love to use one over the noisy iwakis. thanks again!

steveweast

05/02/2003, 08:56 AM

Mark, The key to a quiet Dolphin pump is the RPM's. Their 1725 RPM pumps are quiet ...the higher RPM pumps are not. The 4700 pump draws about 2.2 amps @ 1725 RPM's, while the amp3000's draw 1 amp. The 4700 was the highest output pump that they had ...that was still a low RPM pump (and had 1 1/2 in/out so as to easily replace the amp3000's). Check out their website at dolphinpumps.com for each pump's specification sheet.

markmcc

05/02/2003, 09:45 AM

Thanks Steve!

wizard13

07/09/2003, 11:01 PM

Hi Steve, I hope all is well with you. No matter how many times I browse the Net for ideas and inspiration for my next reef incarnation, I always come back to your tank. Congratulations and continued success, now onto the questions. I'm hoping you can share with me what those 3 black connections are above your sump? I can't get a really good look but it appears you might be running you calcium reactors into them. It would be awesome if you figured out how to plumb these directly into your system and still be able to measure the effluent PH. Is this what you're doing or am I just living in fantasy land? I currently just use a dish with a PH meter and some drips holes but it's ugly and not very functional. If this is/or not what you're doing, could you share how you're handling this situation please? Sorry for all the questions, many thanks for your wisdom in advance. :rollface:

steveweast

07/10/2003, 08:29 AM

Wizard...Those three black connections are the three in-line probes for the main tank that monitor temp,pH,and redox. I do not have one of them monitoring the pH of the reactor effluent...but, I could do that if I were so inclined. I never measure my reactor effluent's pH...instead, I occasionally measure the effluent's calcium and alkalinity levels when I test the main tanks levels. As long as the effluent's calcium is around 650 and the alkalinity is around 40, I don't care what the pH is...it's the calcium and alkalinity values that are of most concern to me ...not the pH (which could be low and still not provide enough calcium or alkalinity to maintain desired tank levels). Since that photo though, I now run the effluent through the refugium so the excess CO2 can be utilized by the macro algae.

wizard13

07/10/2003, 10:31 AM

Very cool, what kind of PVC connectors did you utilize to make that happen? Did you drill a hole and just glue the probes to the PVC? It looks very professionaly done and I'd love to replicate it. I just have my probes hanging inside the sump but your method is exponentially better.

P.S.
Thanks for the lightning fast reply.

steveweast

07/10/2003, 06:30 PM

Wizard, My probes are made by Aquadyne...and they have the probe compression connectors that screw into standard pvc fittings. Check with the manufacture of your probes to see if they offer a similar product. Having the probes in pvc is preferable to floating in the sump...especially when trying to keep the probes clean and algae free.

wizard13

07/10/2003, 07:11 PM

Excellent.... I didn't realize the Octopus had that ability. I purchased the Neptune Aquacontroller, I hope they offer that same feature.

Thanks.

Since I have your attention, I hope you don't mind a couple more questions.

What are you using as media in you calcium reactors, Koralith, CaribSea ARM, etc...?

I also own the PM Bullet series but I have the unit just below yours. If you had to do it again, would you purchase a different model protein skimmer? Mine seems to work OK but I just feel like it could do a little better.

Oh yeah, I also wanted to ask what the angled pipe that's sticked up from your refugium is doing? (It doesn't seem to connect anywhere.)

I currently own a 120g reef but getting ready to move in the next 6 months. I'm plotting my new strategy as well as probably going to a 180+. I'd like to draw up the whole design ahead of time, learning from my past victories and defeats and applying them to the new system.

Sorry for all the questions.... My philosophy is to gather all the wisdom you can from the people who excel at what they do, it's the only way to become better yourself.

Thanks again.

steveweast

07/10/2003, 09:55 PM

You've got mail....

RobReef

07/28/2003, 01:41 AM

I'm posting this message all over the place...sorry for the confusion.

Steve,

Wow! I've been drooling over your tank photos (especially the pump cabinet) for weeks and I just noticed the ‘discussion forum’. I could easily overwhelm you with too many questions; so I’ve narrowed it down to two subjects...okay three questions.

I'm currently building the stand and canopy for my new aquarium and I'm trying to decide on a Neptune System or Aquadyne Octopus controller for this system. I believe you're using both controller/monitors. Which model do you recommend? I would like to control lights, wave maker, fans, chiller, heater and monitor temperature and ph. Thoughts?

In regards to your closed loop system – you’re most likely familiar with SeaHorse Aquarium Supply in Portland; they sell a pump by Filtronics (variable speed control, magnetic drive). Would you recommend this pump for use with a closed loop system using three or four of these pumps? It’s an odd question but this closed loop system is a new idea for me; one of your threads touched on ‘noise’ and my four MaxiJet 1200s are driving me nuts in my current tank.

I’m an Upscales customer too and they’ve sold me the entire PM line of equipment. What is your opinion of the PM Bullet Skimmers? I have a Bullet 1 with the newer injector and I’m considering purchasing a Bullet 2 for this new system.

I’d really like to see additional photos of your tank and pump cabinet if possible. You’ve created the ‘Street of Dreams’ equivalent of reef aquariums and that garage photo is making me rethink my planning in our new home. It is a masterpiece of technology and nature.

Thank you in advance, Rob

steveweast

07/28/2003, 08:39 AM

Rob, I sent you an email...

Acuatica

11/03/2003, 01:10 AM

Hi..I am new in reef keeping, but i know about excellence when i see it. Please, give more details for us, to help us to reach that level of excellence too. Start by detailing your tank: besides measures, where holes are located and diameter and stuff. Great great job. Thanks for let us know about something like that is possible in our living room. (excuse my english..it is not my fisrt language)

Yellotang

11/03/2003, 01:20 AM

You may want to cruise over to his new thread and his new tank. http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=261916

jdsabin1

11/03/2003, 01:21 AM

Do a search on TOTM and go to the backissue of Reefkeeping Magazine Online where Steve's tank appeared and you'll get more details. This is an old thread. Steve has moved on to something larger (and looks to be even better)!

Originally posted by Acuatica
Hi..I am new in reef keeping, but i know about excellence when i see it. Please, give more details for us, to help us to reach that level of excellence too. Start by detailing your tank: besides measures, where holes are located and diameter and stuff. Great great job. Thanks for let us know about something like that is possible in our living room. (excuse my english..it is not my fisrt language)