Tank Temperature Tolerance

[phljess]

What would be the temperature tolerance on the high end for most corals? I am currently running up to about 83 degrees at the end of my light cycle. The ambient room temperature right now is about 68 degrees. I am concerned about the up coming summer when the room temp will be around 73 degrees. I am having a temperature swing of about 6 degrees, which I understand is not desirable. Any thoughts on how to control this swing? Currently I am running two 32 CFM fans in my canopy and running water through a homemade chiller using a dorm fridge as the chiller with maxi jet 1200, 295 GPH. I am considering adding three more fans, two in the canopy and one across the sump. Tank is open topped.

[1package]

I think (IMO), you are starting to push the high end (temp.) now. The additional fans will likely improve the situation, it will also likely add greatly to your evaporation which if on a 75g, may be a bigger problem without some type of auto top off.

Assume when you say canopy, it is enclosed. If so you mentioned running two fans - do you have sufficient vents for the fans to pull air or push air through?

I see canopys with fans and no vents - almost a waste of effort.

[MattG]

yea i would do everything possible to keep the tank 84 and under.

what type of lights are you running? 6 degrees is a pretty big swing for a tank with an open top. Id definetly throw some large fans on your sump to increase evaporation.

[LowCel]

Matt, took this from another thread.

Originally posted by phljess
I am running two 10K 400 watt halides plus 240 watts of pc for actinic suppplementation and some LED's for moon light. I plan to change the two actinic 55 watt bulbs out for 6500 bulbs. By doing, I believe I will be able to hit all spectrums needed for a "natural day" I will run the actinics one hour then will run the 6500's for one hour before the halides kick on. I will allow the 6500's to run for four hours then kick them off. The actinics will conitnue to run one hour after the halides kick off, then the moon light will come on until morning. I am also working on a way to disipate heat from the water, I have decided to build a chiller.

[H.crispa]

My tank used to hit 85 and sometimes 86 at the end of the day with no ill effects. I never was comfortable with that so I beefed up the fan on the cooling tower. I'd definitely go with less than 84, preferably 78 to 80.

[LowCel]

It's pretty bad, I worry when my tank gets up to 80. :)

[MattG]

It's pretty bad, I worry when my tank gets up to 80.

and thats running de 250's without a chiller.

[LowCel]

Yup, running four fans with a temperature controller definately helps.

[phljess]

I am running 1040 watts of light see my post under Jason's tread on his 900 watt set up. My canopy is open in the back to allow convection to help eliminate some heat. You can really feel hot air rising out of the back of the canopy. I have the fans both pushing air into the canopy at a 45 degree angle, trying to create alot of evaporation. I thought about turning one of them to flow out into the room to help pull hot air out of the canopy, but with the back being open there is alot of air getting pushed out the back already.

[LowCel]

On mine I have the back open as well. I have one fan pulling air into the canopy and one fan pushing the air out. I think that makes a big difference.

YMMV

[jnichols]

I have an SPS and LPS dominate tank that is always at 82 degrees. I wouldn't go over 84 and try to keep the temp swing within a couple of degrees. HTH

[essop3]

exhaust fans tend to work better thandrawing air in. When cooling your attic you don't blow air in.

Put a fan blowing on your sump to increase evaporation. You can put it on a timer about an hour after lights are on until an hour after they are off. That way you wont drop the temp when its all ready getting cooler.

Another alternative is to live with 83 and put a heater in to stop the temp. swings.