Float switch topoff...

[SHOmuchFUN]

I'm going to put in an order for a float switch to DIY an auto-topoff system here at the office. Float switches are $6 plus $3 shipping. I didn't know if anyone needs one, or wanted to make a topoff system with me. I have a pretty good idea of how to make an effective and decent topoff.

I'm going to take my chances and run a 1-switch system because of the small tank and the lack of real estate to have two switches floating. For others that want one for their larger tanks, I suggest getting two and running a redundant switch to turn off your pump if your topoff switch gets stuck.

I'm going to get this switch:
http://www.floatswitches.net/floatswitch.html

It's one of the better switches that performs better under 120VAC. Most other cheap ones you see on E-bay are prone to arcing and sticking = flooding. These handle higher amps and voltages and are less prone to arc.

I know a few of you are running reservoir topoffs already, but didn't know if they were DIY'd or not. I use a reef-relief topoff because of its actuated solenoid that takes the 1/4" line from my RODI with autoshutoff... Thus not needing a reservoir or pump. But, since this is at my office, I'm going to need a reservoir to topoff during the weekends and holidays.

So let me know if you want a switch or not, or simply to discuss a topoff system.

[SHOmuchFUN]

Or I guess I/we could get one of these and call it a day?
http://www.californiareefs.com/forsale.htm

Not really sure which is the more efficient route... ???

[mogulski]

pm sent.
i'm looking for just a top off switch. not the resivior/container, powerheads or other bells and whistles. LMK what ya wanna do.

[SHOmuchFUN]

PM sent back Jonathan.

[tsalter]

Erik I am going to do a top off so if you want I will go in with you if its not to late. I am going to run a solenoid and relay. so will need at least two switches was going to order 4 to make it worth my while.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Ughhhh this ****ing reefcentral...
I just had a long post written out and got a white screen

Hold on, lemme rewrite my ****ing thesis. :furious:

[tsalter]

http://www.reeffreaks.com/viewtopic.php?t=2314&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=35ce4af38f7fce08dd9d63d088714534

I am going to do something like this. Basically a copy of your trick unit.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Here's a bit of an abridged version:

I haven't put the order in yet. I'm waiting on Jonathan's word as to what he wants to do, because he expressed some interest in making an auto-topoff because he's doing it manually. So, once I hear from him and if I don't hear from anyone else, I will order later this afternoon/evening. I know once I get this tank, I'm going to get impatient and want to set it up ASAP.

Should I put you in for 4 switches then? You just want the bare switches and not the california setup right?

Solenoid and relay huh? How do you plan do set that up out of curiosity? I don't think a solenoid is going to help my office setup much. I was thinking I'd just run a single switch for topoff, but would like to run two, one for redundancy, but I also don't want a bunch of bobbers inside my tank. I wish I could put them in a mechanical filter, but I believe the water level inside those filters remains constant. I was thinking of making a pre-filter box with some teeth for surface skimming, running the inlet of the mechanical filter inside the box and the outlet outside. I believe that I could run my float switches inside the box because if I run it through my head correctly, the water level *should* change inside the prefilter. If this is the case, I think I may fit two switches in there to prevent flooding over my $$$$ dell.

[tsalter]

Yeah 4 bare switches from floatswitches.net if that is what you are ordering.

Naw the solenoid wouldn't do you much good that is for going from house pressure. the relay might be something to think about it keeps 120 from going near the tank.

check this out
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=M3-AQUALIFTERPUMP&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

This is what I am thinking about as a topoff pump. Low flow so it won't flood too quick but will still keep up with topoff duties.

check out the reeffreaks site above for the particulars on the solenoid setup. Great thread on a diy setup.

I don't know about putting the switches in a diy aquafuge or something like that it might be something to look into on the nano forum I am not sure if they evap down or not.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Yep, you're right about the solenoid... Did you get a RODI?

I like the idea of the relay... But wonder if it's really necessary. Does it matter just how much voltage enters the tank? I'd imagine 12v will kill a tank just as easily as 120v. Your window of death may be shortened, and I guess it may be a safety issue. But if you're running a GFCI, wouldn't this solve the safety issue?

I'm just playing devil's advocate. It'd just be $15 or so you wouldn't have to spend on a powerpack.

I'm pretty sure the levels inside those power filters remains constant... But I'm still toying with the prefilter idea. Anybody have any spare sheet acrylic lying around? Actually... I might... I got a dremel for christmas :D

Oh and here's another more simple DIY thread (I think this one is minus the relay).

http://www.oc-creative.com/reef/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1512&PN=1

[tsalter]

i don't know. With so many power heads etc with 120 going through them i really don't know. I don't think 12v will kill you as easily as 120. but I really have no idea. the answer always given is its done to keep the house current away from the tank. I think this is especially an issue with diy jobs like this. screw up a connection drop it in the water. whatever. I don't know all that much about electricity.

[SHOmuchFUN]

Why not run a windshield washer pump?
They run off of 12v, so you wouldn't need a relay. They handle washer fluid all the time, and since you'd be running RODI through it, I doubt metal components/corrosion would be a real issue. They're also pretty inexpensive if you get a generic autozone pump and don't pump 300gph. They also are designed for short spurts as well.

[tsalter]

Could do that as well. I don't really care about not wiring the relay in, was looking for a wiring challenge to learn a little bit more.

[SHOmuchFUN]

Yeah, it looked straight forward enough...
I'm pretty good with a soldering gun and wiring. If you want to put one together, it wouldn't be a problem. I don't know if you have all your components yet. I don't think those solenoids are too cheap though?

I'm hoping to do mine before I setup the MB7, so I'm on an ASAP schedule.

Let me know.
-Erik

[tsalter]

Depending on the size of these things I don't think it would be a big deal to mount two in your MB. Because you wouldn't have to mount them in the water so it isn't going to take up much in-tank space.

You could have them hanging from the hood towards the back. Just recreate the diagram on page 3 of the thread I posted above or do it without the relay.

You could always dremel the back glass for an external overflow! that would take a few shots first.

The relay is only $7 at radio shack so it is that $12 for floatswitches and then a pump ($15?) or old powerhead and the power supply ($6). which you should be able to scrounge up around the house. or all-electronics if you didn't mind waiting a week for it and paying shipping. Or even check the reuse place at the dump we find lots of good stuff there.

solenoids are $18 from mcmastercarr.

I am not too bad with the solder ether just not too metally skilled yet with the theory of electricity piece, meaning I couldn't put the top off together with my own prior knowledge. With a schematic I can connect wires and parts with the best of them :) I owned a volkswagon for many years! LOL thats a associates in wiring degree in itself.

So if/when you want to order the float switches let me know. I can "float" ya da cash.

T

[Brad A.]

Originally posted by SHOmuchFUN


I'm going to get this switch:
http://www.floatswitches.net/floatswitch.html

.


These switches have a stainless steel E-clip which is bad. It will rust in your reef.

Just something to consider.

[tsalter]

Brad what do you have on your setup? one of those? could coat the clip in epoxy i
guess?

[SHOmuchFUN]

:lol: You know about volkswagen electrical systems too huh? That's too funny, I had a passat for a while that was a NIGHTMARE. Lights come on and off for various reasons, windshield wipers turning on when you flip the dome light... Stupid stuff like that! :lol:

An external overflow would be nuts, but I don't plan on running a sump in my office. I don't think drilling the back glass of the bow for just float switches is really necessary. I would've loved to have done this on my 55 though... I think an internal overflow would be the only way to go, to conceal the mechanical filter straw, and float switches. I think I'm going to give this a try. It doesn't need to be watertight, just something to skim the surface skum and hide the switches.

Anyway, back to the float switches:
You don't need to use the e-clip... You could just wad something up and seal it, or tack a piece of plastic at the bottom. It's only to prevent the float from coming off the spindle.

I'll order them right now... Since I didn't hear from Jonathan, he may have to sit this one out. I'm going to order 2 for myself, 4 for Tom.

[Brad A.]

Originally posted by tsalter
Brad what do you have on your setup? one of those? could coat the clip in epoxy i
guess?

plastic clip

[SHOmuchFUN]

I didn't think stainless steel rusted? My fragging tool is made of stainless and it hasn't rusted?

[tsalter]

everything metal rusts in saltwater. stainless rusts it just takes longer.

[SHOmuchFUN]

Gotcha...
I didn't order last night... Still want me to?

[tsalter]

Sure go ahead. Are you going to be in btown this week/end? I figure even if I don't use them right now I will use them in the future.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Ok... I'm going to order 6.

I might possibly be in B-town. I don't know if they'll come by then though?... I think I may come into town and get an aquaclear if I know the right size. I want to be able to put a 50w heater, some carbon and maybe some chaeto or something in it. I'm thinking the 300 and then either shaving down the impellar to slow down the flow, or just getting a replacement 150 or 200 impellar and putting it in the 300 to reduce flow. So yeah, I should come into town.

I also got a disadvantage gift. cert. Maybe if they have any decent live rock, I may hold a couple pieces.

[tsalter]

Cool, even if they aren't here I'll give you the cash ASAP since I am ordering more than you are. I have the mini. it is a bit too small for heater duties. I don't think you have to worry about slowing flow by cutting impellers. you can just stick something in the intake tube to restrict flow. mine always got clogged with chaeto and it slowed it down. not that the mini needed to be slowed. I wouldn't worry about it too much only if you were using sand.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Thought about the sand... But I remember putting rubble in my emperor 400 (around 4-500gph) and it getting stuck in the impellar and the sound it would make. It was such a PITA to get out. I don't know that I want to recreate that havoc, not to mention decrease the life of the filter.

[tsalter]

I meant sand in the tank. Most were cutting flow in the hobs because it would blow the sand around where it dumped in the tank. sand in it yikes. I just had spagetti in mine and that was okay.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Payment sent for 6 float switches... Total $39
-Erik

[tsalter]

Cool thanks Erik

t

[SHOmuchFUN]

Whew.....

Talk about HIGH... I just tried the dremel out cutting some acrylic. I feel like I've been takin' shots of cuervo. Yerrreaararrrrrrrrrrr...

I cut about a 1' length of acrylic that's about 1/2" wide. I then heated the end to make an L that'll be parallel to the water. Those float switches are 1/4" NPT, so I'll drill a 1/4" hole in the L bracket and hang the float from there. I have to wait for the tank to come, before I bend anymore because I'll need to fit that to sit at a specific level.

I'm still thinking of making a prefilter/overflow to conceal the switch and the mechanical filter straw. BUT... I think I'll use my new jigsaw to do that. The dremel was messy and unforgiving.

Ignore spelling errors... I'm still a little light headed (and I thought that aquarium sealant was noxious stuff!)

[tsalter]

good stuff! My Table/band saw are always avalable, yet far away! They make quicker work of that stuff. Sounds like a fun project. reminds me of your sump!

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

Yeah, the table saw is the ultaimte. agm;mkmgllll

If I'm going to make a prefilter, I'll stop by and use your table if you don't mind... I'll cut the prefilter teeth with the dremel though.

Tank should be here Thursday, I'm going to grab an aquaclear this weekend. Maybe when I stop by on Saturday, I'll bring my acrylic and run a few prefilter walls off.

-E

[SHOmuchFUN]

Float switches went out VIA USPS, from Texas yesterday... So, who the hell knows?

[tsalter]

Why not use the table saw to cut the teeth too? Or my brand spanking new router. Not that I don't like dremels they are sweet and you probably want to use it. but the router, table or band saw will take all of 10 seconds to that job. then you could clean it up with the dremel if need be. Gots to get me a dremel at some point they are cool.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

I dunno? I guess I could use the router as well if you're willing to let me use it. I'd need some help as I've never used a router before. They look pretty neat though!

I'm having trouble figuring whether to make an overflow basket, or one that extends all the way down the tank. The acrylic is also clear, so I guess it isn't really hiding much?


Jen gave me a nice dremel for Christmas. I was just kinda itching to use it. It didn't work on the acrylic too great. Takes a steady hand! I've got an acrylic hangover from last night cutting it as well. Yee-haw.

[tsalter]

Yeah that is the problem with the dremel is you need a fence. The router will work well, I can show you how to use it or you could just drill holes in the acrylic at the bottom of the teeth and then cut down to them with the bandsaw.

Yeah I got a router for christmas. It was nice but since I have broken three in the past year. I returned it for the one I really wanted/knew that I couldn't break.

It is the old rule of woodworking. You ether swear once when you open your wallet or you swear everytime you use the tool. It is up to you.

So needless to say I got a nice porter cable unit. They have a new version out but HD didn't carry it so I got the older one which is still really super nice. I haven't used it yet but it is made very well.

I would go just for a box but it really doesn't matter. if it was to the bottom you wouldn't have to cut the infeed to the ac. and it would have more stability when you siliconed it in.

[SHOmuchFUN]

Well, cool...
I'd hate to be the one to break it in though...

I think I'm leaning towards just a box as well. I don't want it taking up too much room, but also see your points. It's not going to have to be perfect, since it's inside the tank. So I'm not too worried.

[cczarnik]

Originally posted by Brad A.
These switches have a stainless steel E-clip which is bad. It will rust in your reef.

Just something to consider.

FYI, I just bought these switches this week, and they came with plastic clips. No exposed metal anywhere. I think his www site has incorrect info. Chuck

[tsalter]

Yeah, we got them and they were nice and plastic. Neat little switches.

T

[SHOmuchFUN]

I wired mine up already... Works like a charm.
Just need to find a way to mount the switch and the return line. I wish the wires were removable though, because once you solder the connections, you can't get the nut over anything since the wires run through it.

Whoops.