Quarantine question - October 2004 RK

[DensityMan]

DISCLAIMER: While I have often marveled at and deisred to setup a quarantine, I have not to date. This is not intended to be any sort of recommendation to go QT-less, just wanted my current state to be known up front.

The largest factor in my not having a Q-tank, currently is a lack of space combined with the understanding that I have always thought it best to keep a QT running at all times (and I referrence back to your article for the points against running one at all times). The very common-sense approach you make mention of within your article to have the filtration source (HOB or Sponge-filter) already running within the main display is brilliant in its simplicity. It also leads me to several questions that no one has been able to answer to my satisfaction.

What happens to the filter when the aquarist doesn't luck out and has to treat for a parasite or infection?

In most cases we are told (and rightly so) not to use medications within our display tanks for the damage, both short and long term, that can be done to the small life within our tanks. When the quarantine period is finished and the fish/coral looks healthy it can be placed into the display. What happens to the filter though when the quarantine time is finished? Specifically, how much damage is the filter capable of doing to the main display through leaching of copper or other contaminants (from the medications) or even eggs/largal parasites that survived 'treatment' on/in the filter?

Should the filter itself be cleaned/detoxxed and the media exchanged before starting the process over again?

I've personally 'justified' not needing a QT tank because I am generally (overly) meticulous in observing/scanning something at the LFS before taking it home. I have imported macro-parasites and corallivores in my time and dealt with them during acclimation by hand (again through meticulous observation and a good deal of luck). I don't buy online (which is somewhat humorous because I work in web-development) and that may help somewhat. I do 'swap' frags (rarely) with people online and have found those to be my most worrisome additions, simply due to the lack of observation opportunities and the absence of tank info/history. On several imports I've had to treat for and remove red/green planaria (flatworms) during acclimations.

What do you suggest a person without the space (or willpower to leave it empty) for a continuously running QT do to help safeguard their tanks inhabitants? Is what I've outlined above from my personal experience enough? Is it really safe to just plop the QT filter from the tank-with-bad-things into the display-sump again?

Sorry if their are too many questions above. Once my interest is piqued I am a sponge for information; I just need to know more... to soak it all in.

Thanks,

Scott / DM

[Steven Pro]

What happens to the filter when the aquarist doesn't luck out and has to treat for a parasite or infection?

Depending on the treatment, you may end up damaging or destroying the beneficial bacteria or nothing would happen to it. It really depends on what medications you are talking about, but the existance or extent of the damage can be monitored easily enough by testing for ammonia and nitrite during the quarantine process.

What happens to the filter though when the quarantine time is finished? Specifically, how much damage is the filter capable of doing to the main display through leaching of copper or other contaminants (from the medications) or even eggs/largal parasites that survived 'treatment' on/in the filter?

First off, if the quarantine specimen is safe (free from infection or infestation) to add to the display, then the filter must be also. Whatever treatment you employed that was 100% effective on the host would also take care of the filter too. As to copper or other chemicals leaching into display's water, that can also be easily take care of. Remember that the quarantine period is a one month minimum. If you had to treat for something, the one month countdown does not start until the treatment is complete and successful. So, you have a minimum of one month to dilute or remove the treatment chemicals by way of water changes or chemical media (activated carbon, Polyfilter, etc.).

I do 'swap' frags (rarely) with people online and have found those to be my most worrisome additions, simply due to the lack of observation opportunities and the absence of tank info/history. On several imports I've had to treat for and remove red/green planaria (flatworms) during acclimations.

Yes, frag swaps are the aquarium equivalent of unprotected promiscuous sex.

I hope I answered/addressed all your questions. If you have anything additonally or if I missed something particular, feel free to post followups.

[Adam]

Scott and Steve,

My Disclaimer: I am a recovering non-quarantiner. After many months, I am still battling Montipora eating aeolid nudibranchs. I have also aquired some very prized fish and can no longer stomach the risk.

I have adopted the practice of using a hang on power filter for my quarantine tank. When the tank is not running, I keep a set of the disposable filter cartridges in the sump or overflow of an establshed tank. After the quarantine period is over, they are simply thrown away.

This is an inexpensive solution to preventing the introduction of drugs or disease by returning such media to a display to maintain biological activity.

I've personally 'justified' not needing a QT tank because I am generally (overly) meticulous in observing/scanning something at the LFS before taking it home. I have imported macro-parasites and corallivores in my time and dealt with them during acclimation by hand (again through meticulous observation and a good deal of luck). I don't buy online (which is somewhat humorous because I work in web-development) and that may help somewhat. I do 'swap' frags (rarely) with people online and have found those to be my most worrisome additions, simply due to the lack of observation opportunities and the absence of tank info/history. On several imports I've had to treat for and remove red/green planaria (flatworms) during acclimations.

If you have missed flatworms and "macro-parasites", how is it likely or even possible that such observation will prevent the introduction of Cryptocaryon, Amyloodinium, Brooklynella, internal parasites, etc? I had an ich outbreak in one of my tanks after adding a coral (without the packing water) that had been in a tank with an infested fish. IMO, no amount of visual inspection is an adequate substitute for quarantine. Too many problems don't manifest themselves for days or weeks after aquiring a new specimen.

As for frag swaps... Steve's characterization is dead on. Consider the recent proliferation of Montipora eating Aeolids and "red bugs" on acroporas. There is no question that we will see more of these kinds of things in the future. There is also no doubt that we will see more destructive ones.... parasites/preditors that are non-obligate and can survive for long periods of time without their prefered prey/host or one that is less descriminate in what it infests.

A 10-20 gallon tank that is set up for temporary quarantine should be an acceptable imposition on the space, budget and signifcant other of anyone who can likewise maintain an aquarium.

Adam

[Steven Pro]

By they way Adam, I love the signature. It literally made me LOL.