Sanjay's Calcium Reactor

[Larry M]

Hi gang--I am going to build a calc reactor for my 65 and move the Knop C to my 40 gallon. David Grigor has gotten me interested in Sanjay Joshi's plan, it looks like a good plan and should be simple to build. I'm wondering if any of you have compared his model to others, or if there are any modifications you would make on his design. I think I have come up with one already, it looks like a better top for the mixing chamber would be a modified union capped off with a piece of acrylic. Any other favorite designs out there?

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[elvisdoc]

Larry,
Do you have a link to a schematic on Joshi's reactor?

thanks.

elvis

[Larry M]

Yep, sorry I should have included that.

Sanjay's Calcium Reactor (http://www.aquariumfrontiers.com/fish/aqfm/1998/mar/features/2/default.asp)

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Frisco]

I can't say I like that DIY reactor compared to some of the other ones out there; the design is not too elegant. If you've got a couple power tools, you could easily make a better version.

Chris Paris: The hard part is making the flange on this one... You'd probably want to modify the pump placement slightly...
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~cap/raid/careactors/recirc/

[mikefish]

I just built this reactor a few weeks ago. It is working well. Some things I tried:

Sealing the top (if you go with the original plan) is not very difficult at all if you use a thicker "Sanitary sewer" version of teflon tape - it's much thicker than standard, plus it's pink!

I used the larger (4") base, and put a plug in it (available at Lowe's where I got the base). I then used a 3"-4" adapter to transition to the acrylic tube. This looks like a wide funnel. The small end fits inside the base snugly - you may think it won't go all the way in, but with the glue for lube it slides down to three stops and seats well and level. This looks better than the original plan. The other advantage is that the place where the adapter necks down makes a ledge which supports the eggcrate very well, eliminating the need for the legs.

I drilled and tapped the plug on top of the main chamber as described, but used that as the output back to the tank only. For the recirculation loop I drilled into the side of the main chamber tube at the top and came off there. This eliminates the problem discussed of varying length of the recirc loop depending on how deeply seated the plug is.

That's about it. I'm in the process of adding another smaller chamber to further react with the carbonic acid and raise the pH going back to the tank. I'm also adding a vent for excess CO2 to stabilize the flowrate back to the tank.

I'm using about 10cc/min of CO2 (I went with the flowmeter option). My alkalinity went from <6 to 11-12 in just a few days after connecting this thing. Everything in the tank looks better and growth has exploded. I've redone my makeup water system and simplified it since I don't have to mess with kalk any longer. These things should be standard equipment on a reef system!

Mike

[Larry M]

Frisco--Thanks for the link. I am going to avoid the flange if I can. I am not too concerned with looks, it will be hidden anyway. My major concerns are: ease of construction, inexpensive to build, make this Knop I have look sick, and easy to maintain. Sanjay's looks like it will fill the bill of the ones I've seen so far.

Mike--Could you elaborate on this idea a little? "I'm also adding a vent for excess CO2 to stabilize the flowrate back to the tank."
How do you plan to do that?


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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Flamehawk]

Hey Larry, try to avoid the pvc FNPT plug that Mr. Yoshi recommends and cap-off the top of the chamber with acrylic instead. Use a threaded 1/2" bulkehead on the top to run the plumbing outside of the reactor down to the pump and then run tubing to about four inches from the bottom on the side of the reactor. If you're using extruded acrylic (1/8" in thickness, the one you get from Aquaticeco.com), reinforce the tubing where you're going to insert and thread the tubing that's comming from the pump to the bottom side of the reactor. You can do this by cutting a 2x2" section of 1/8" acrylic, heating it with a striping gun and bending it to the contour of the acrylic tube (do this in steps, heating and bending and letting it cool, heating and bending and letting it cool, and so on). Use thick weld-on cement to glue this and then drill and tap with 1/2" NPT.

Since you will be permanently sealing off the top of the reactor with the glued acrylic on the top, your reactor will have to be accessed from the bottom. This might sound a little strange, but it works just fine. Use a "rubber test cap" (you konw, the rubber test cap that is black and that has a stailess steel clamp around it to tighten it and loosen it) as your cap and "access port". This cap works rather well because it is easily tightened and untighend and put and taken off, it creates a tight seal with the use of only one screw plus, since its at the bottom of the chamber, it will bear the weight of the inside of the reactor and not bulge like it would if it was to be used at the top of the reactor instead.

You may choose to inject both affluent water (tank water) and co2 in front of the pump by employing two "T's" (I don't think they make four way connections in 1/2" size).

Draw the eflluent (Water comming out of the reactor) from the top of the reactor and try NOT to thread the needle valve so far down that the thread will "underhang the acrylic top). This will make the excess co2 that accumulates at the top of the reactor exit with the effluent. Some people may find the excess co2 exiting with the effluent into your sump counter-productive, but i have had no problems because the amount of c02 that accumulates at the top of the reactor is not too much. This is because most of the co2 that woould accummulate at the top is sucked in through the bulkhead (btw, make sure that you place the bulkhead so that the short part is inside) and sent back through the recirculation loop, through the pump and through the media again.

I'm sorry i don't have any pics to show you but i have not gotten my digtal camera back since i last loaned it a couple of months ago. Similarly and as i have let you known before, i am so bad at drawing that it will be imposible for me to be able to draw any sketch worth interpreting.

Hope this helps.

JOHNNY

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www.homestead.com/johnnymok (http://www.homestead.com/johnnymok)

[Vins Fins]

Hi Larry,

I also made this reactor about 6 months ago.I used 3" pvc/acrylic insead of 4".

Home depot has a drain catch that is made out of pvc. this will fit in to the coupling that you use to adapt the pvc/acrylic.much better than eggcrate,its made to fit in to the coupling.then you put 2 layers of fib.screen mesh on it.

I use a seperate chamber to add water/ co2 in to the pump impeller. my pre mixing chamber is a clear filter canister off an ro unit. then i also made another chamber for the effluent to mix again before ent the tank. i would rather have the effluent going in to the tank at a ph of 7.2-7.5 rather than
6.5 if you want details give me a call 315-432-3781.

Vinny Guarno

[This message has been edited by Vins Fins (edited 02-18-2000).]

[mikefish]

About the excess CO2 vent:

With this design the only way for excess CO2 to exit the reactor is with the effluent water. This actually works ok, but the effect is that the effluent tends to come out in burps and spurts, rather than a constant drip rate. I doubt this hurts anything, but it makes it nearly impossible to get any kind of reading on the flowrate. And the flowrate is important! I tried making a recirculation loop to re-inject the excess gas, but I couldn't control it finely enough and just kept poisoning the pump with too much gas. I can't think of any way to build a feedback system that will ensure CO2 saturation without overdosing, so I'm going to continue to err on the side of slight overdosing.

So I'm going to put in a separate line to bleed gas. It will obviously come off of the highest point of the reactor, where I'm taking the effluent from now. The effluent water will be taken off at a lower point (the bottom of my future second reacting chamber). I will run a line from the gas bleed port to a point higher than my sump, so no water will exit that way. I'm also goofing around with ideas for float valves that will automatically vent gas when it builds to a certain level, but I doubt that it will work well enough and will make me nervous with its complexity.

I feel like these problems have probably been already solved more elegantly than I am doing it, but I have not actually seen any commercial calcium reactors. I've tried to figure the fine points of design and operation from tiny photos on the commercial web pages. One thing I'm guessing is important that I don't hear mentioned is whether the reactor is above or below the sump. The way things work depends quite a bit on that I think.

Mike

[Frisco]

mikefish: I've never seen a reactor running with any appreciable amount of visible gas, and I'd suspect that your reactor is running really inefficiently right now. You should be able to eliminate the buildup of bubbles. Got a pic?

[Larry M]

In his plans, Sanjay refers to a Dwyer flow control for the c02 that eliminates the need for a bubble counter and needle valve. Sounds like a great idea to me, I have had LOUSY luck with needle valves. Anyone currently using one of these?


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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Vins Fins]

[ Larry,

I tried the dwyer valve.I have a 75 gal tank. My tank only requires a bubble every 4 seconds.this was not a high enough amount for the dwyer valve to be able to measure.Try a
whitey needle valve.I also know that you can buy a needle valve from Pet Wharehouse cat#
870052. cost $25.95

Vinny http://home.twcny.rr.com/vguarno/

[Vins Fins]

Mike,
I also went throgh the same problem that you're having right know.I know use A.R.M.
argonite reactor media from carib sea. new stuff. This media only requires a ph of 7.5
reactor ph. My kh if i'm not careful goes up to 15dkh.this suff works great.You will be able to lower you're c02 consumption. Mine is set at approx 1 bubble every 4 seconds.My dwyer valve won't pick it up, so i went back to the bubble counter. I do not get any more burps in my effluent.Hope this helps.

Vinny http://home.twcny.rr.com/vguarno/

[Frisco]

You should be able to get much better needle valves. Hoke and Nupro make them, and if you want part numbers I can look in my catalogs at work next week. They are definitely much easier to adjust and are more solid in construction.

[mikefish]

I'm using an Eheim, the 1250 I think. But that's just cause I had it lying around before I started building the reactor. It works great of course.

Mike

[mikefish]

Thanks for the tips. I agree about the Dwyer valve. It's not terribly precise and the flow range is too high for this application.

I don't have visible gas in the reactor really. I mean you can't see bubbles rising or anything. But it does accumulate at the top. I thought 10cc/min was already a pretty low flow rate - Sanjay says he runs at about 20, but I realize that the amount you need is dependent upon the flow rate of water through the thing (effluent). As far as efficiency goes, my parameters are great with alk 11.5-12.0 and calcium at 500 or better, and steady, and if Sanjay gets 6 mos. out of a 20lb. gas tank at 20cc/min, I should do better. Perhaps this will become an issue as the mass of sps corals increases in my tank and I have to increase the effluent rate. As you say, I'm clearly running an excess of CO2. But I would rather err on the side of excess right now. And back to that Dwyer valve, I can't control lower flowrates until I change equipment.

I added the second reactor column yesterday, but haven't measured anything yet. As far as looks go, I'm pretty proud of mine! It looks way cool, very neat and professional. Just like something you'd see along the roadside in New Jersey!

Oh, and the float valve vent still needs some adjusting, but seems to be sealing quite well (I've got an overflow line as well so I don't have to depend on it sealing). And just to completely destroy my credibility here, the valve is made with an O-ring and a ping-pong ball!

Mike :)

[Larry M]

Thanks for the feedback on the Dwyer flow valve. You guys just saved me $35. I have seen the needle valve in the Pet Warehouse catalog, has anyone tried it?
I am a little undecided as to which pump to use. I understand the Maxi-jets are solid pumps and cheap, but when I have used them externally before I had salt creep from just a tiny leak around the o-ring at the impeller casing.
Mag drives have also leaked for me when used externally.
I guess I'm leaning toward an Eheim, probably the 1048 unless someone has a better idea.

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Frisco]

Larry - You should be able to get a much better valve; the ones sold to the trade leave something to be desired. I can take photos of the ones I refered to above next week and include part numbers for reference.

[Larry M]

Ok, Frisco that sounds good. I ordered the clear acrylic and a few other things today. I'm thinking about making this thing shorter than the 24" in the diagram. Anyone see any problem with doing this?

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Flamehawk]

Going shorter, as long as it's within reason for the load in your tank, should pose no problem. The only thing i would consider, though, is that AquaticEco may not want to cut a non-nominal size, say 19.5". If this is the case, you will be hard-pressed to find that cutting the acrylic tube square by yourself is a hard task with any commonly available power tool. You may want to ask them yourself, though.
HTH
JOHNNY

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www.homestead.com/johnnymok (http://www.homestead.com/johnnymok)

[Flamehawk]

Duh, i just re-read your post Larry. If you were able to place the order, it most likely means that you were able to get them to cut it to the size you desired.

JOHNNY

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www.homestead.com/johnnymok (http://www.homestead.com/johnnymok)

[Larry M]

Johnny--I ordered 24" before I decided to make it shorter. I think I can whack off a chunk on my table saw. At least I'll give it a shot. BTW, I think I have figured out a way to get a union on top of this thing--should be a lot easier to get apart to replace the media.
:)

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[This message has been edited by Larry M (edited 02-21-2000).]

[Larry M]

Well, I got started on it today. Here's what I have so far:
http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/calcium_reactor.htm

I'm still undecided on which pump. Is more gallons per hour better on these reactors? I assume more gph will do a better and faster job of breaking down the media?


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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[This message has been edited by Larry M (edited 02-29-2000).]

[Flamehawk]

Larry, i tried cutting the acrylic tubr with my table saw and i made a mess out of the tube. Looking at your design, though, i don't see how you would benefit from having the acrylic tube square so you should be fine. Good job on the diy link, just don't keep us holding our breath waiting for more pics too long :)

JOHNNY

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www.homestead.com/johnnymok (http://www.homestead.com/johnnymok)

[Heinrich]

You do know thaat Aquaticecosystems sells flanges for just that purpose. 4" Flange. Also getting sheets of PVC is easier to work with and last but not least use ABS fittings instead of PVC. There about 1/5th the price and work fine for our applications. Addey did all his plumbing in "Black PVC"/Abs and never had any problems and had access to all scientific watertesting and toxicological data. But there will be almost no exposed ABS anyway. If worried just apply a layer of PVC cement. Another easier method is using a rubber comression coupling. I have been using one of those on my 5 foot skimmer and 5 foot Ca reactor. Easy to work with cheap and lasts years if you don't use ozone. Not affected by CO2 as far as I know.
So for all of you doing god knows what to try to get an easy acces top. Nothing easier than a steel clamped ruber coupling or reducer coupling.
Holds up to 25psi=+60ft of head pressure. Silicone on the maxijet if it starts leaking.

These are not exactly pretty solutions but practical and inexpensive. I really dislike the 4" acrylic and used a section of 4" clear PVC and simple 4" ABS pipe. By the way this is a single pass Ca reactor that blows any rejuvinating CO2 reactor away, only drawback its large and the efluent is at 7.6-7.8. Dual chamber and holds 75lbs of Aragonite. Really overkill but I haad some spare parts. Now if it were as easy to get a simple CO2 regulation system...
Workmanship looks really nice Larry.
93! Heinrich

[Larry M]

Johnny--Just waiting for the UPS guy to bring the clear tube so I can finish the thing.
Heinrich--Ha, I didn't know about the flange. Now I may have to build another one. :) I didn't use abs as there aren't nearly as many fittings available for it around here. Most have switched to pvc. Next time I might use the clear pvc. You would only need a short portion to see when the media is getting low. 75 lbs of arragonite, eh? LOL that's quite a reactor.
Anyone know where to purchase GeoMarine?
Pumps, people, pumps!
Now I'm thinking of using a Seltz L30. Anyone tried these?


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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Flamehawk]

Heinrich, pls elavorate how you would use the AquaticEco flnage, you lost me.

Larry, you want good flow but not so much that you will be making a sand storm. I like the Mag-2 and have been using it on my reactors. It pumps 250gph and i have yet have them leak on me. I considered using MaxiJet at some point but couldn't find fittings to hard-plumb it. I also can see how they would easily leak.

JOHNNY

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www.homestead.com/johnnymok (http://www.homestead.com/johnnymok)

[David Grigor]

Hey Larry,

You can get the Geomarine Crushed Coral locally at Something Fishey. I can't remember exactly but I think it is $15.00 for a 20lb bag.

[Larry M]

David--Thanks for that info, I had no idea it would be available locally. I made the bubble counter using your tip, thanks for that too.
Johnny, do you know where I could find a Mag 2? The smallest one I can find for sale anymore is a Mag 5.
I think the flange would be for accessing the top of the tube instead of the methods already mentioned. FWIW, I don't think they would be that tough to make, just time consuming.


[This message has been edited by Larry M (edited 02-29-2000).]

[Larry M]

Ok, I found a Mag 2. How about a c02 check valve?


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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Flamehawk]

Larry, try Champion for the Mag 2. It should be around 30 bucks.

JOHNNY

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www.homestead.com/johnnymok (http://www.homestead.com/johnnymok)

[Frisco]

The Hoke valve I spoke of previously: http://www.hoke.com/v_meter.htm

It's the 1300 series metering valve...

[Vins Fins]

here's more info onwhere to buy very good needle valves

Where to get fine control valves (thanks to a lot of people for the following information)

For a better (although much more expensive) valve, try to locate a a Nupro B-4MG2 valve.

The following are retail sources of the B-4MG2 valve:

This place will send via UPS (at least they did at one time) and they charged $35 plus $7 shipping some years ago.

Denver Valve and Fitting Co.
950 Simms
Lakewood, CO
(303-232-8844)

This place ship UPS and accept MasterCard over the phone. Dave Thorsen is the sales rep for western WI.

Minnesota Valve & Fitting Co.
15901 West 78th St
Eden Prairie, MN 55344-5799
(612) 937-1160

Pittsburg Valve and Fitting Co.
P.O. box 4155
49 Meade Ave
Bellevue, Pittsburgh
PA 15202
Ph: 412-761-3212
Fax: 412-761-2486

The ARO Model NO1 valve is obsolete, but there are replacements:

ARO Model FO1, NPT size 1/8", Grainger Stock No. 6ZC07, $8.43

ARO Model F02, NPT size 1/4", Grainger StocK No. 6ZC08, $11.30

Note: These prices are taken from the 1993 Grainger Cat. and have gone up slightly. e.g. the F02 now costs $13.10.

Another valve that is being tried (no data yet) is:

Whitey, Model no. B-ORF2, Cost around $22.00 from the Pittsburg Valve and Fitting Co. (listed above).

I went out and bought a CO2 tank and the Victor Flow Regulator. It works like a charm. The flow regulator is actually quite expensive since it combines both a
needle valve and the regular and a flow gauge. Apparently, the Victor company brand is about the best you can buy. It ended costing $120 for the regulator (this
was the best price I could find retail.) The model number is HRF1425-320.

As promised earlier: The phone number for the ARO corp. is 419-636-4242. This is their company h.q. and they should be able to put you in touch with a local
distributor of their NO1 needle valve. In Siloam Springs, Arkansas, call Van Asche Industries at 501-524-3271, and in Tulsa, Oklahoma call Precision at
918-438-0707.

Vinny

[Larry M]

Wow, thanks guys for the info. I sent an email to a Minnesota company that carries the Nupro, and one that carries the Hoke. I also picked up the pump today and put together as much as I could of the recirulation loop. The clear acrylic should be here any day now. Then it's time to fire the baby up!!

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Heinrich]

Don't forget to use weldon 40. Else presurizing a joint between PVC and acrtlic will start to leak very soon. Just use the mags they work well. If you like countercurrent so therre is fluidizing you might want a stronger pump such as a 3 or 5 mag. The main drawback about using acrylic is it scratches really easily and can also crack very easily. If you ever go countercurrent which is more selfcleaning and knocks the sandgrains against each other so there is a continous fresh surface. Also less channeling and less cementing. Just put an additional filterpad on the top to prevent aragonite from getting into the pump.
Using the flange simply glue it onto a pipe then have another short section of pipe and cap it off drill a male adapter on that's it or any other combination. Works if your using bigger stronger pressurized Ca reactors. Not for a 65 :) waste of money. PVC isn't code but 4" ABS is really cheap and Homedepo has more odd parts in ABS than in PVC at least here. PVC isn't code. By the way you can drill and attach any type of fitting directly to PCV clear or reg without worry since it's strong enough. Also instead of expensive threading drillbits simply get a Tee-eliminator also at Aquatic Ecosystems.
I just sold my reactor for $100. Now on a ten 55g tank coral system, still overkill.
93! Heinrich

[mikefish]

Vinny-
What exactly is a flow regulator? The only thing I know of like that is a mass flow meter/regulator, and I think they're more expensive than that.
Mike

[Larry M]

Well, for the most part it is done. The glue is curing now, I'll assemble it tomorrow and take some pics. It looks pretty good, a great design and AWESOME documentation by Sanjay on the Aquarium Frontiers article. If he is reading this, thank you very much. I know a lot of work went into that article.
If I did it again I would try ABS like Heinrich suggested. I think it would look better, if for no other reason.
It was a lot of fun to build--now I need another project. :D
BTW, it cost me $65 to build it, without pump and c02 sytem.

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[This message has been edited by Larry M (edited 02-25-2000).]

[Vins Fins]

Mike,

A flow regulater is what is used for welding. I have one that went to a small mig welder. They have a measuring device installed in them just like the dwyer valve has which doesn't mean much , because we generaly do not use enough c02 for it to pick up. the only draw back is that the pressure remains a constant.mine is about 30#'s.
there are no gauges on it the either.postive thing is that there much cheaper, if you go with the smaller type.

Vinny

[Larry M]

Here it is, the ugly duckling. :)

http://larry_reef.homestead.com/files/finishedreactor.jpg

http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/calcium_reactor.htm

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[This message has been edited by Larry M (edited 02-29-2000).]

[Evets]

I especially like the suspension arms for the bubble counter. If I squint, your reactor looks like a funky space ship. Enjoy.
-Steve

[Frisco]

Have you fired up the recirc loop yet? I think you might need to add a screen or sponge above the bed... If the pumps big enough, it should easily fluidize it and send grains into the pump intake. Why not add more media also so you don't have to change it out as often?

[Larry M]

Nope, haven't started it yet. I'm afraid it might go through the ceiling. :)
I am going to add more media, and I wrapped some screen underneath the top fitting. I hope it doesn't clog, if it does I will try something else.


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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Larry M]

Ok, in Minnesota I couldn't find anyone with the Hoke or Nupro valve in stock, but did find someone with the Whitey. It was $20.60, far superior to any valve I have used before. It does allow micro-adjustments of the co2 input. This company will do mail order and does accept credit cards. Ordering info is on my site.

http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/miscphotos/whitey.jpg

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[This message has been edited by Larry M (edited 02-29-2000).]

[Larry M]

Well, the reactor has been running with CO2 now for about 24 hours. I just did some tests, here are the parameters of the effulent: Bubble count 45 per minute, ph 6.54 dkh 27, calcium 760ppm. Wow, that was fast. I dinked around literally for months with the Knop before I got it dialed in. That new needle valve is great. I cut the bubble count back to about half of the above, I don't need quite that much for my system.
I gotta say again, this is a kick-butt design. I can't believe I built this thing for $65. With the pump and media I have about $125 in the thing. What a deal.

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Vins Fins]

I see you went with the first valve that i sugested, good choice.I'm a lab tech for carrier corp. we use those valves for all kinds of testing.some of the refrigeratin solenoid valves that we use a very good to.

Vinny

[TheDonger]

Larry,

What is the total cost you have into this unit including CO2 tank etc..

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Visit Keith's Reef (http://web.tampabay.rr.com/lazydasy/keithreef)

[Larry M]

DIY Reactor: $65.00
Media: $13.00 (enough for several fills)
Mag 250 pump: $50.00 (available for $30 on-line)
Co2 system: regulator $50, 5# bottle with gas $65.00, needle valve $21.00.

Grand total: $264.00.

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Larry M

See my tanks at Northern Reef (http://www.reefcentral.com/northernreef/index.htm)

[Purple Tang]

Larry, I was thinking of building that calcium reactor (Sanjay model)you built but was wundering if it would be big enough or if it would require a bigger pump for a 180 gallon tank.
New to this reactor thing.

[Snailman]

We have two large tanks. We have a Knop C that we used on a 125 and I added a second chamber to it. :) It can not keep up with the 200 so I have designed a dual chamber for large tanks. I have built one for my 400 and I will be building one for the 200 to replace the Knop. I pressure tested the prototype yesterday and only had one leak. :) I have written complete instructions and taken lots of pictures. It will be on the web as soon as I am sure that it works and that there are no bugs. If I can be of any help please let me know.

[jimhobbs]

Hey Snailman! :)
Make sure and post when you get the instructions up...Harbor freight just billed my credit card, so I'm assuming my regulator and tank are on the way...Now if I could just figure out a way to feed all three tanks off one reactor!...Hummm, maybe a common sump with a slow drain from each of them...The reactor seems like such overkill for one 29gal tank...Now that my work tank is home, I'll have to think on this a while...................

Have fun guys!...jim

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My theory of evolution,
Darwin was adopted....

[This message has been edited by jimhobbs (edited 09-04-2000).]

[Snailman]

Jim... I can't help with sharing a reactor but I did put a tee on out regulator output and I put two whitey needle valves on it. This way my reactor will get a free ride off of my wifes CO2 tank, regulator, solenoid valve. :)
The instructions are all but done and there is just one picture left to take. As soon as it is online and any bugs worked out I will send the package to be put up on the board.